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Everything posted by fpb111

  1. Vent valve = number 21 here? http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=986-97-04&section=201-00&pn=99620175100#a I bet your problem is #25 which has the reed switch, combined with #11 Look at comments #6 -12 https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/106-FUEL-Replacing_Your_Fuel_Line_Vent_Valve/106-FUEL-Replacing_Your_Fuel_Line_Vent_Valve.htm
  2. Porsche keys have 4 components, outer shell, transponder pill to talk to the immobilizer, circuit board that transmits signals to lock/unlock the car, and blade to unlock the ign switch and steering wheel lock. The pill and circuit board must be introduced to the car in order to work. If you just transfer the pill and the blade you will have a key that has no remote. You must also transfer the board, which in your case is probably bad. If that key head comes with a board you will have to have the dealer program it into the car.
  3. If you stay with a dual mass flywheel the trans noise at idle will be more noticeable but not as loud as a lightweight single mass unit with an unsprung disk.
  4. I wanted to keep mine stock so I recently bought the 2015 updated CD set from Annapolis Porsche for under $300.
  5. PCM 2.0 with software update 3.0, like yours, worked with 000 044 901 21 2008 updated CDs my 2004 TT with no dealer interaction needed. Today I am ordering the new 2015 update, # 000 044 902 31, CD set from https://parts.porscheofannapolis.com/oem-parts/porsche-software-update-pcm2-00004490231 $244.82
  6. Wow! Who doesn't? Bilstein, Koni, KW, H&R, KYB... It depends on what you want to achieve.
  7. You got the special one? Looks like the last micro switch in the close sequence needs to be reset. I don't know which one it is, sorry.
  8. Another data point. I replaced the clutch disk, PP, TO bearing, Fork, and pivot on my 2003 C2 Cab while addressing a leaking RMS @~ 35k. The Sachs replacement clutch pack would occasionally squeal as yours does. I went back in to do the IMS when the ceramic replacement part and procedure were first offered @~50k. I replaced the disk at that time and never heard the squeal again. So in my case I figured the squeal I heard was the disk. YMMV
  9. Revisiting this topic due to my radiators failing. Quick background, I just bought this turbo Nov 2015. The car has only 18k miles over 12 years of service This spring I pulled the bumper to clean the radiators. The back 1/4 was packed with what looked like cement that I could not wash out from either side with garden hose pressure. An added bonus was many pin holes. I bought and mounted set of 3 CSF radiators. (~$1,600 plus 8 hoses ~$318 and 3 gallons of VW/Audi coolant $78) The CSF fit was excellent and so far no more leaks.
  10. One of my friends had to get a repeater to make his home link work. It works fine now. I was betting on the "program with the existing hand held" and then introducing car to the opener.
  11. Does your mirror look like one of these? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IVimUd-xYKc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mvoKBm7h3aY https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0BseDur3LG0
  12. Salt water causes stainless to "corrode" lose it's passive layer. http://www.bssa.org.uk/faq.php?id=9 What forms of corrosion can occur in stainless steels? The most common forms of corrosion in stainless steel are: Pitting corrosion - The passive layer on stainless steel can be attacked by certain chemical species. The chloride ion Cl- is the most common of these and is found in everyday materials such as salt and bleach. Pitting corrosion is avoided by making sure that stainless steel does not come into prolonged contact with harmful chemicals or by choosing a grade of steel which is more resistant to attack. The pitting corrosion resistance can be assessed using the Pitting Resistance Equivalent Number calculated from the alloy content. Crevice corrosion - Stainless steel requires a supply of oxygen to make sure that the passive layer can form on the surface. In very tight crevices, it is not always possible for the oxygen to gain access to the stainless steel surface thereby causing it to be vulnerable to attack. Crevice corrosion is avoided by sealing crevices with a flexible sealant or by using a more corrosion resistant grade. General corrosion - Normally, stainless steel does not corrode uniformly as do ordinary carbon and alloy steels. However, with some chemicals, notably acids, the passive layer may be attacked uniformly depending on concentration and temperature and the metal loss is distributed over the entire surface of the steel. Hydrochloric acid and sulphuric acid at some concentrations are particular aggressive towards stainless steel. Stress corrosion cracking (SCC) - This is a relatively rare form of corrosion which requires a very specific combination of tensile stress, temperature and corrosive species, often the chloride ion, for it to occur. Typical applications where SCC can occur are hot water tanks and swimming pools. Another form known as sulphide stress corrosion cracking (SSCC) is associated with hydrogen sulphide in oil and gas exploration and production. Intergranular corrosion - This is now quite a rare form of corrosion. If the Carbon level in the steel is too high, Chromium can combine with Carbon to form Chromium Carbide. This occurs at temperatures between about 450-850 deg C. This process is also called sensitisation and typically occurs during welding. The Chromium available to form the passive layer is effectively reduced and corrosion can occur. It is avoided by choosing a low carbon grade the so-called 'L' grades or by using a steel with Titanium or Niobium which preferentially combines with Carbon. Galvanic corrosion - If two dissimilar metals are in contact with each other and with an electrolyte e.g. water or other solution, it is possible for a galvanic cell to be set up. This is rather like a battery and can accelerate corrosion of the less 'noble' metal. It can avoided by separating the metals with a non-metallic insulator such as rubber.
  13. Park the car close to the door opener motor. Press the "learn" button on the motor, within (20 seconds?) press the button on the remote that you want to control that door. Hold it until the flashing light on the remote changes frequency. IE: slows down or speeds up - done. Google "Home Link" instructions. Pressing the two outside buttons simultaneously erases remote stored codes.
  14. You may have already figured this out but just in case. The rubber that dropped is the grommet that holds the temp sensor in the metal bracket. If you haven't already done so put the grommet onto the sensor and then push it into the bracket.
  15. That looks interesting. Did you try it? If so how did it work?
  16. I received and mounted mine yesterday. Here are some pics in a thread about them on Rennlist. http://rennlist.com/forums/996-turbo-forum/924526-light-savers-for-rear-turbo-tail-lights.html
  17. Or you could use one of these from your bicycle shop. http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/25704-window-regulator-permanent-fix-stretched-cable.html
  18. On the later cars the drains are not connected to a hose they just end above the next layer of metal. I have read that there is a TSB that instructs to push the early drain grommets through the hole and or pull the hose up?? Try pouring some water into the hole and see if it gets into the car or drains out behind the front wheel. There is a plastic drain opening there that might drain everything from the cowl drains. I don't know if the hose is connected to that plastic or ends just above it or...
  19. Folks like Super Trapp because you can adjust back pressure/DB level by adding/subtracting disks in a couple of minutes at the track with a hex key.
  20. Maybe here? http://rennlist.com/forums/996-turbo-forum/919993-recent-wholesale-auction-results-996tt-coupes.html Or here. http://rennlist.com/forums/996-turbo-forum/908707-996-turbo-actual-auction-price-list-past-2-years-mecum-barrett-etc.html Or here? http://rennlist.com/forums/996-turbo-forum/913813-the-prestige-thread-finest-996tt-market-finds.html
  21. Maybe you need to get the tank/gauge recalibrated. It sounds like it may not be seeing the "remote" section of the tank.
  22. Wross996TT, Not sure that is completely true. The system is equipped with blend doors that will mix warm air with the cold to achieve something close to the set temperature. At least that is the way my 2004TT works. If the foam is off the doors the system will not be able to do this.
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