Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

fpb111

Contributing Members
  • Posts

    436
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by fpb111

  1. After charging the battery or jump starting the car, connect the voltmeter to the battery the same as before and note the charging voltage. A charging system that is operating normally should produce about 13.5 to 14.5 or more volts at idle. If the charging voltage is less than 13.5 volts, the alternator is not putting out enough current to keep the battery charged. You should have the alternator tested (or bench tested at an auto parts store). If the current output is not up to specifications, replace the alternator.

    vltg1batt.gif The standard automotive battery in today's vehicles is 12 volts. Each battery has six cells with 2.1 volts. A car battery is considered fully charged at 12.6 volts.

    When a battery drops voltage, even a small amount, it makes a big difference. For instance, when a battery drops from 12.6 to 12.0 volts, its power drops from 100% to 25%. At 12.4 volts, a car battery is 75% charged. At 12.2 volts, it's 50% charged.*

    vltg1chart.gif

  2. You are probably going to have to buy a new key head.

    If so check with Suncoast, FL or Sunset, OR. They are both dealers that discount mail order parts.

    Probably discounted to ~$125 for the head. Then another $100 for the local dealer to program it. Some local dealers will program the head as part of the $200+ price. You should check to see what makes $$ sense.

    If you go to EBay make sure that the head comes with the barcode. If it does not it will not be programmable.

  3. Log this failure with NHTSA

    Recalls are triggered by complaints to the NHTSA. NHTSA complaints and investigations can be researched at their website: http://www.safercar.gov/Vehicle+Owners . Complaints can easily be filed there. Between MY 2000 and 2010 there were only 6 IMS failures reported with std or S Boxsters: 1 in 02, 4 in 03, 1 in 04 - not enough to trigger an investigation, much less a recall.

    See this thread

    http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/645275-possible-leverage-for-failed-ims-engine-replacement.html

  4. Sounds like the clutch "helper" spring broke. it lives above the pedal in a little can. Some folks take it out because of the more sensitive engagement feel. Some put a weaker spring in because the pedal does not return to the stop. If the pedal has a little play sometimes the cruise control will not engage/stay engaged. Some don't like the stiffer clutch.

    Do a search here and on Rennlist. There are a few threads that cover this in depth.

    here is one

    http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/343297-improved-clutch-action-dramatically.html

    another

    http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/493462-improved-clutch-action-dramatically-a-year-later.html

    another with pics

    http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/rennlist-canada/613937-top-tip-does-your-clutch-pedal-feel-hard.html

    etc...

  5. Sometimes it takes the tappets a bit to pump up. Don't overreact by putting any"flush" agent in the oil. It might "flush" junk into places where you do not want that junk. Like the tappets which are a dead end, like the Roach Motel, "Roaches check in but don't check out!" if "Junk checks in it may never check out" Just use one ofthe Porsche recommended oils and change it often. Many do 5k changes or if you have a garage queen once a year.

    Hard starting after a wash might be due to some cracked coils shorting from getting wet.

    Porsche Approved Oils 2008.pdf

  6. "could this thinner oil and abundant yellowish "coffee foam" on the cap and upper oil fill tube be the cause of the ticking?"

    How much coffee foam? !/2 oz, 1 cup? What does the coolant look like? Pretty Pink/green or dark and muddy? What does the oil on the dipstick look like clear or coffee?

    Oil pressure skips up and down while driving? Like engine at steady 3K rpm oil pressure skips?

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.