fpb111

Plastic screws and inserts are available. Why not buy shorter screws?

I usually just stop at my local NAPA. They have plastic screws in 4 pack cards like these

http://automotive.hardwarestore.com/91-560-license-plate-frames/nylon-license-fasteners-129882.aspx?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=129882&utm_campaign=googlebase

Do a Google search

http://www.google.com/#hl=en&sugexp=gsqvhc&pq=license%20plate%20screws%20home%20depot&xhr=t&q=plastic+license+plate+screws&cp=1&pf=p&sclient=psy&source=hp&aq=0c&aqi=&aql=f&oq=plicense+plate+screws+&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&fp=9e109416ad216412

I use Rejex on my windshield and it makes the glass surface very slippery so that bugs and fine ablative particles bounce off without leaving much damage.

Orient,

Your car is so well waxed that rain beads and starts to run off 1" before it hits the surface. :notworthy:

It is not just Porsche that uses "softer" glass. I think it is all German cars. Both of our Mercedes windshields look terrible. Somewhere along the way I was told that TUV requirements are different than USA and require this glass formulation?!?!?

I know that I learned to rope in the windshields in my two early car (70 & 72) because of the pitting/cracking, one could save $50 on DIY. Five or six track events at most tracks or two three day events at Pocono or Bridgehampton would pretty much destroy the windshield. They looked like they had been sandblasted. In the early-mid 80's one could get a non-German replacement for ~$150 USD that had a harder surface that resisted pitting better. These tended to crack from flying debris easier. I had two crack from being hit by rubber chunks.

Great that it was repaired. Thank you for posting the resolution.

If you just replace the $11.00 electrical part, that is the part where the plastic piece breaks and causes the switch to jam sometimes, you only need a small screwdriver and flexibility to get under the dash.

Just doing a search through other forums and on the web looks like depending on depth pit polishing can help but not make it as new.

That said years ago I had an XKE that had deep scratches from the wipers.(three wipers on that jag) I could not afford a new windshield at the time. I went to a glass repair shop that gave me some dry polish, looked like reddish talc, I was able to reduce the hazing in the scratches enough to pass inspection. Luckily they were not in direct line of sight because when I was finished the window was clear but there was a deep "valley" that the wipers could never touch.

Maybe one of these products?

http://www.eastwood.com/glass-polishing-kit-for-deep-scratches-5658.html

or the pros?

That happened to me. I tried many reset procedures.

In the end I had to buy a new key head (~$100 from Sunset Porsche) put my working blade in it and bring the new one and my working head to a dealer for programming/ reprogramming. If you get one from E-Bay or anywhere else make sure that the bar code for the head is attached. Without a barcode for programming the new head will be useless.

I hope that they can program a key for you. I have read (hearsay) that without at least one working head they cannot program a new one??

Just an FYI.

In early cars 1969 - 73 squeaking ball joints were not uncommon. One fix was to get a syringe and inject about 10cc of ATF into the joint.

This worked for me on multiple cars over the years.

If you have a diabetic friend that injects insulin ask for a used needle. The needles are very small (26-28gage) and you can poke it through the rubber without making a noticeable hole.

Not sure about the trim. Maybe your tension cable is stretched/broken?

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php/topic/14314-convertible-top-tension-cable/

I did mine while sitting in the passenger's seat. I am surprised we don't hear of these breaking more often. The little actuating loops are fragile.

Read this thread. Search here,Renntech, for ignition switch problems and replacement DIYs

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/581673-faulty-ignition-switch.html

Check out this thread. Seems that if the flap is closed all of the time you will have a LAI (not CAI)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-996-997-forum/599542-better-sound-airbox-simple-free.html

Isn't the AOS water cooled? It is in that area.

RFM,

Thank you.

I thought C4 by the label on the tank.

Access through the trunk ( inside the seal) or still in the "open" area around the battery?

R'lister trying for TSB Fuel Tank Hose Modification 5/99 2015

has posted this pic post #45 Where is the pump access on this car?

http://forums.rennli...take-gas-3.html

Someone more knowledgeable should chime in on this.

What you are seeing might be normal. With AC off the fans start at a lower speed until ~200 then switch to high speed.

If you have never removed the front bumper cover and cleaned in front of and between the AC condensers and radiators you should do that also.

The fans are two speed one fan on each side of the front of the car.

Most of he relays live above the fuse panel by your left foot if left side drive. Check the fuses also. There are ballast resisters in the fan assys that can burn out. Let the car reach operating temp and with AC OFF listen when the fans come on to make sure both are running.

4 weeks sitting? Maybe some varmints setup housekeeping in the radiator intakes.

How did you determine that the fans were working? It sounds like the low speed fan setting is not activating. Did you let the car warmup and listen for the fans to switch on? If you switch the AC on does the temp come down in traffic? AC switches the fans to high speed.

There is also a clutch switch to check while you are down there.

Whether or not using Tap water is a good idea will depend on the water quality. Where my folks live the tap water is very soft. At our house the dish washer is essentially slurry blasting the dishes clean, which is great until all of the glaze is worn off.:D

Some years ago I ran a group of gem (YAG) LASERs in a manufacturing setting. At the time DI water with resistance above 1.5 Meg ohms was specified. I found that if we used any metal plumbing to/from the remote, water cooling system the pipes would "dissolve" very quickly and it was almost impossible to keep the DI resistance in spec. Because of this I would be hesitant to use DI water in our mostly metal engines.

Below are some excerpts from answers to questions that I asked at the time:

Deionized water is exactly that - water that has essentially been stripped of all of its ions. Water likes to be balanced in its natural state, however, and this means that it adds ions to itself to achieve that goal. Therefore, DI water grabs ions from everything it touches that can be dissolved or absorbed. It is about a close as you can get to a Universal Solvent. In your case, it will extract metals from all of the brass fittings you have, and will also pull carbon dioxide from the air - you get the drift.

Distilled water is not nearly as aggressive as deionized, and it is essentially balanced. It still has very little ions in it, but it is less aggressive than DI, It also is not corrosive to most metallic internal parts on your equipment.

I don't know if you have received an answer to this yet. A few folks on Rennlist have posted experience and advice. Here is one:

http://forums.rennli...n-a-03-c4s.html

If only one side has failed you might also notice that one tail pipe has dropped ~1/2" lower than the other.

Tire talking = Little moan- chirp while braking accelerating.

Ign off, key on so that ABS PSM etc still active.

The right front tire on a GMC Safari van that I had would do that on every stop after it warmed up. It turned out to be the ABS activating on that wheel only?? I pulled the ABS fuse everything (brakes) worked fine and it stopped making the noise . The van had 180K miles on it and needed too much $$ to make it right so I junked it at the end of that summer. Never did spend time figuring it out.

http://www.cosmolinedirect.com/?gclid=CIydhaXAnKYCFYnd4AodtRebmg

After you clean the salt etc off.

Almost sounds like tires talking. Does it make the noise when braking with the engine off? How about on wet road?

The engine mounts are oil dampened. Your engine mount ruptured. They are pretty easy to change. If you search the web you can find them for reasonable prices.

You will probably be introduced to a raging controversy about correct ways to jack a 996. Many use the lug on the engine many do not.