fpb111

Find the "Wheeler Dealers" episode about the Porsche Boxster S. They buy it cheap with a sketchy trans and fix it with a fluid & filter change.

30 years? I have had mine on a 2003 C2 (glass rear window)for 6 months with no problems after I took it off. My car sat in a dealer on consignment for ~9 months I have never had any problems with it other than the normal creases from folding. I also use Raggtop convertible top products on it. If you fold it down dirty you are likely to get more scuffing etc from the dirt. YMMV

If I understand you. No exterior lights are working. If that is the case it might also be a failed headlight switch.

AWDGuy,

3' will be tight but should be enough to get the engine/trans assy out.

creekman,

Are the other two cylinders on the other side?

Ahsai,

Thank you, I couldn't remember where I saw that pic.

Once the foam is all gone you will have cool heat and warm air conditioning.

Did you plug the "Hammer" in to see if it worked?

The JB welding of a 5 mm hex socket didn't hold, Had foot surgery so will have to wait the car is in my A/C garage with carpets and seats out and being dried. Will try to use a easy out in the al hub to open the clam shell so I can remove to ECU and send it and the alarm CPU to ECU doctors for repair. the need the ECU and Key to reset the immobilizer. Is there a hidden cable to open the engine bay cover like the trunk lid has?

The engine bay cable is coiled under the left rear tail light. You can get to it by gently wedging a plastic spatula between the bottom of the taillight housing and the body. You should then be able to fish it out with a thin wire hook.

Back in the '70s/'80s when 911s developed squeaky ball joints one solution was to get a syringe and inject about 200ccs of ATF into the ball joint. That would stop the squeak for a couple of years (8 on my 1970S)

Look at the diagrams referenced in post #4. Left = 996,  Right = Boxster

Interesting that they (Pelican) show this part #99610704751, for both 911 and Boxster.  Yet when you look at the pics they have the 911 as a connecting elbow without the extra vent and the Boxster as a connecting elbow with the vent.

Look at "more info",  images, then either Boxster or 911 diagram.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/pel_search_2014.cgi?SUPERCAT_FLAG=Y&make=POR&Context_make=&please_wait=N&LastVisited_input=0916&Previous_Section=&forumid=&threadid=&command=DWsearch&description=99610704751&I1.x=8&I1.y=6

The "fuse" he replaced was the DRL RELAY.

Very strangely, mine actually comes down once I am sitting in traffic - very predictably, by a few degrees.  I can't figure why that would be.  ps. I would be happy to have pgvinters' readings!

Are you sure that both fans work on low and high speed? 

To properly clean the radiators you must remove the bumper cover and separate the air conditioner rad from the H2o rad to clean the junk from in between.  I cleaned these 3 years ago.

This gives you a good idea how to remove the cover(s)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Um-h2aUJHY4

Not sure about the Boxster, by 2003 911 (996) had codes stored in the ECU or somewhere other then the radio.  I have had my 2003 battery disconnected and never lost radio presets. You will have to retrain the windows to get auto up/down functions. 

If it is the "maintenance Free" battery, one that is sealed so that you do not have to add water, you will not need the vent hose.  If it has removable caps you will need to hook up the vent hose.  Many of us prefer sealed wet  or even better AGM or Gel type batteries.  If you get an acid spill in the area where the battery lives corrosion can be a nightmare.

Looking at the sheet you show, 

The upper one would need vent tube. 

The lower one is AGM, no vent tube needed.

Some have dropped it in from the top.  You have to remove an idler pulley to get clearance.

To answer your question.  It won't electrically damage your car. 

Super glue it. Then try to pull it apart. You will be surprised how strong the glued part is.

I used to glue the engine mount isolation dampers on Norton heads with it and they never broke in the same place again.

If the next mark is 100c then you are right about where the low speed fans come on.

Electric fan, speed 1
Coolant temperature higher than 96.75° C or air conditioning switched on.

Electric fan, speed 2
Coolant temperature > 102° C or air-conditioning fluid pressure switch closed (coolant pressure > 16 bar

From post 2 here-> http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/16622-when-does-the-fan-work/#entry83062

Just an information point

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-turbo-forum/764827-low-oil-pressure.html

I recently changed my 2003 expansion tank (Pain in the A@@) This caused antifreeze to thoroughly soak #1 causing misfire.

Car has ~55k miles so I had coils and plugs on hand to change out for 60k maintenance.

Just a note here. If you are changing the tank and plug/coil maintenance is due, do it while the tank is out, much better access to #1 from the top. Unfortunately it doesn't help #4 you still have to cuss it out & in.

I used a very light coat of dielectric grease on the boot end, orange connecter seal, and *boot sealing ribs. That made it much easier to connect everything.

To get back to my point, the coil was shorting from the first joint, where the coil "Boot" connects, across the dirty, wet surface of the coil to ground by one of the mounting screws. No cracks, no puddle in the spark plug well just wet dirt on the surface. So if you pull a misfiring coil and it looks fine except for dirt it may have been the dirty surface that caused the misfire when it got wet, clean it and check the seal at the first rubber joint.

Another interesting observation, the "boot" (extension from actual coil to spark plug) doesn't have a metal clip that snaps over the plug end. It has a spring that is pressed and held against the top of the plug by compression of the two coil mounting screws.

*http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2003/porsche/911/engine_electrical/coil_boot.html

Post the codes thrown.

What is the colour code on the options list on the inside of the frunk lid? Or in the owners manual?

They mount to the holes that your rear sway bar mounts to.

Automotion has them

http://www.automotion.com/996-engine-support-bar-for-porsche.html