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SWFLHOMES

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Everything posted by SWFLHOMES

  1. I had the same problem. Mine ended up being a vapor line in the engine compartment that runs along the fuel rail on the drivers side (about $65) and 15 minutes to replace. I'll see if I have the receipt to get you the part number.
  2. Does anyone know if I have to remove the front bumper to access the air conditioning condenser or can I access it from the front of the engine behind the fan? I also have to replace my serpentine belt. Any help or diagrams would be much appreciated!
  3. Can anyone tell me the best way to access the condenser?
  4. Has anyone done this job? If you have, do you have a PDF that shows me what I'm up against? Is it a DIY?
  5. I narrowed down what is leaking. It is a bright green dye that is in the AC system. I removed the drivers side wheel well and the under carriage covers. It is leaking out one of the AC lines. I am having trouble seeing which one is leaking because it sprays the green dye all over the area . Any thoughts?
  6. You are correct! It looks like it's a power steering hose leak. Any tips on how to fix or how to pinpoint the exact location of the leak?
  7. It was dripping down the front where the sway bar attaches to the suspension. You would think it was coolant coming from the radiator but the coolant is red.
  8. I wish I read this post YESTERDAY. I just removed my wheel well to do mine! I did not think of going through the headlight opening. All hail Mudman.
  9. 2004 Cayenne S 95k miles: I have noticed some movement and a thud from a dead stop in the driveline the last 6 months and have not been able to pin point it (nor could the dealer) . I just noticed green greasy fluid today leaking towards the drivers side front of the truck. Does any one have experience changing the motor mount and or can you get me a diagram or tell me the process to do this? Do you think it's the mount? Is it a DIY? Thanks, Craig
  10. No, nothing. There is nothing loose in trunk. It is definately something in the drive line or suspension when you give it any type of hard acceleration.
  11. I went to the dealer Saturday (1 1/2 hours away!). I have interesting results. They said that the drive shaft had some play in it and they would replace it (under warranty). This supports when to use the dealership, I decided a year and 1/2 ago to have the dealer replace the shaft. They charged $650 for the shaft and 2 hours labor at $105/hr. I figured if I bought the shaft at the same price it would have taken me considerably longer to do the job AND they warrantied the part for 2 years and the labor was lifetime. The downside, I still have the same clunk. The service tech said other than normal wear (at 92,000 miles) the suspension and mounts were all good. I definately have some sort of movement going on in the rear suspension. They said it could be inside the differential but I have no whine or any noises. If I ease into the throttle there is no clunk, if I throttle somewhat hard from a dead stop you hear it. If I am going 30mph and hit it so it goes into 2nd you can feel it. Something is twisting and hitting the under carriage but I can figure out what it is. Do I take it to another dealer or is there something I can check?
  12. Ok, checked the rear and as many links, bushings and bolts as I could see. I went for another drive, hit the throttle hard from a dead stop and now I swear it could be the drive shaft. Since I had this replaced last year at the dealer, I will bring it back to them for an inspection. Could this happen twice?
  13. I know this is an old topic but I've been trying to figure out this "sub idle" shake for 6 months. Call me crazy but I just replaced the front rotors and now NO sub idle shaking? Just coincidence or luck? Could the ABS sensor be tied into this or am I just reaching here?
  14. I have never seen this topic on the forum. When I take off hard from a dead stop it feels like the left rear suspension moves like it is slightly behind the right. It does not feel like the axel or differential and never happens when I take off "normally". There is a slight clunk like something is loose. It is NOT the cardan/drive shaft. I replaced that already. Any thoughts?
  15. I am in SW Forida and it is rarely cold here (except this winter). I notice when I have the heat on or when the exterior temp is lower than the digital drivers side readout the noises begin. If I lower the drivers temp to a temp near or lower than the outside temp the noise stops. Once I use the A/C (most of the year here), I never hear noises.
  16. Mine does it. It feels more like a low RPM transmission shift from 3rd to 2nd. It's a very slight shudder.
  17. The is a manual override that is explained in the owners manual. Looking at the inside of the door locate the latch area of the door. There is a round rubber grommet with a lock symbol on it. Remove that grommet which will access an emergency lock override. It is red with a slot in it. if you insert your key or a screwdriver and move that back and forth to verify if that works and locks the door. I had this happen to my drivers door but that manual override switch was broken, the spring that gives tension to the lock broke on mine. I now have to replace my lock mechanism. I did also (occasionally) have the drivers rear door lock and then not lock but the mechanism was fine. It was just another intermittent Cayenne electrical issue.
  18. Andy, I'm having the same issue. At fill up, I have to hold that gas down to get it restarted to build up pressure. I know it's the evap system but there are so many parts to check into. Do you have the part number of the part the dealer changed for you? Thanks, Craig
  19. RFM. I did just that but I now have an issue with the drivers door not locking. I can hear the actuator working but it will not lock the drivers door. Could there be a rod that disconnected or an adjustment that can be made?
  20. Thanks Loren! Drivers side? Should I access it through the wheel well?
  21. Ok, got the door panel off but I couldn't get to the lock mechanism. Can you remove the black metal cover under the door panel to access the actuators?
  22. Does anyone know or have a diagram of where the alarm horn is? I relpaced the regular horns but couldn't find the alarm horn. Mine is not working.
  23. I did this one and replaced one (should have done both) part is about $80.00. You need to remove the rear cover that houses the rear speakers and light, be careful removing the panel and only drop it slightly so you can remove the wires for the speakers and light. There are clips that hold that piece to the metal roof structure. They are pushed on to the plastic of the rear cover panel. If they get stuck in the roof just remove them with needle nosed pliers (90 degree angled ones work best). You may need to lower the headliner. It's been a while since I changed mine but I remember removing the B pillar trim which is between the front and rear windows by the front seat belt adjustor. Then carefully lower the headliner just an couple of inches. Once you have the area opened you will see a 2 inch by 6 inch opening with styro foam in it. The styro foam is covering the shock. Remove the styro foam. There are 2 shocks the larger one is for the door the smaller is for the window. The shock is held in by clip, release the clip and unhook the shock. On the replacement you just back the clip out slightly and when you slip it over the ball joint it should snap on. The panel removal can take an hour or two to remove and replace. The shock replacement takes 5 minutes. Take your time so you do not break any of the panels or clips or they may not fit the way they did when new or worse yet you could have something rattle!
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