SWFLHOMES

It seems like after you total up the parts it's not worth the time and labor to do it yourself. Anyone pay a dealer or Porsche shop to do tranny, transaxle etc? Costs? My 2004 CS is probably due but I was told by a dealer the transaxle fluid is good for 180K.

I am having door lock issues along with sticking outside door handles. Has anyone pulled the door panels (tips, diagrams)? Also, when I lock the truck with the remote and pull the drivers outside door handle to confirm it's locked it feels like it's doing the same thing as when you unlock the doors from the inside by pulling the handle twice. The drivers side outside handle is doing just that, pull it once and it feels like it unlocks the door, pull it again and the door opens! PS, locking it with the key does not help.

I'll have to see whether or not it does it cold. It feels like the front axles or transaxle gets ahead or behind with slow forward motion. The Thud or clunking feels like timing is off in the drive train. My cardan shaft is new and there is never an issue at higher speeds. It is most noticable at a drive up window or at the school drop off line when you are going 5mph in slow traffic starting and stopping. I will have to take a trip to the dealer but they are 1 and 1 1/2 hours away so it's a 1/2 a day out of my schedule. Thanks!

I am having the same issue but it seems like it doesn't happen often in the Cayenne. It is more frequent in the 04 Touareg. I have the same exact issue, shuddering at very low speeds while turning, a thud or clunk on and off the gas at low speeds in low gear but never at higher speeds. I beleive it is the "stepper motor" on the transaxel. The part number is correct 955 624 60101. It runs about $300.00. Has anyone ever installed one of these? RFM, MUDMAN, VICARY???

Anybody? It's a similar Thud to the newer "transmission thud" post. I called the dealer and they said try changing the transfer case fluid, "if it's dirty the clutches may not engage correctly". Could it be that or the electronic tranfer case?

When I put the truck in neutral and engage the center lock the truck moves very slow (almost as if it's slipping) then it slams into gear. It does the same thing in full lock. This is at 5MPH. Could it be the electronic differential or a transmission issue? What should I check?

I bought an 04 Cayenne S 2 years ago. I've had most of the major issues with it and have resolved them all. This forum has given me 10 fold better info than the dealer I took it to for a "complete check up". The S has enough power to have fun. I recently drove a 2006 Turbo S and the power was great but I found it hard to use. Once the turbos spool up you are almost going too fast. The S with some exhaust work is a lot of fun around town BUT it will never be a Turbo. I was at a high school football game last night and a 15 or 16 year old cheerleader ran up to it, looked at the back and said "oh, it's not a turbo :( but I love your truck"! :D Buy what won't dissappoint you and what you can afford!

Any tips to removing the panel? I attempted it once but I felt there was a something still holding it on. I pryed the clips at the bottom, removed the cover off of the grab handle and removed that screw and I believe there were two screws at the bottom of the arm rest. Anything I'm missing?

Has anyone had this problem? I am in south Florida and on occasion the door handles are VERY hard to pull open from the outside. Do I need to pull the inside door panel to grease any fittings or can I access it by the latch area?

2004 Cayenne S 79,000 miles. Once in a while I get the shuddering or clicking noise (at low speeds) that feels like it is more a transfer case issue than a suspension or ball joint issue. I spoke with a service rep some time ago and he said I could need the computer to be re-flashed. Today I had this noise while driving straight at about 5 mph. It does NOT happen all of the time. Is it just part of the early Cayenne Blues? Otherwise shifting and power is just fine.

Yes, I did it. It splits at the bottom part of the key that has the battery opening. The plastic circle that surrounds the battery comes out ast well (as one piece, with the cover with the emblem on it). You have to be careful winding the spring with the key to get the key to pop out with the button.

Anyone replace the alarm horn? Is it under one of the Air filter boxes?

RFM, I pulled bank 1 cover and the torsion mount (twice). The first time I noticed that cyliner 2 or 3 (the one under the mount) wiring was pulled out. I plugged it back in and it ran perfect! I put it back together and fired it up... more hesitation! What had happened was I routed the wire for the coil UNDER the mount. Once I tightened the mount it pulled out the coil wire. After re-routing the wire ABOVE the mount, no more problems. Thanks again for everyones time and advice. I would have not been happy if the plug/coil job didn't fix the hesitation.

RFM, Are Cyl 3 & 4 on the left facing the engine closest to the firewall? If anything, I'll pull them and re-check them.

Checked the fuses. No problem there. I guess I can pull all of the covers and check the connections. I was carefull to make sue they were in all the way but a second look wouldn't hurt. Do you know the cylinder order?

RFM, Thanks always for your help! P0300 - Random Cylinder misfire P0303 - #3 misfire P0352 - Coil B Primary / Secondary circuit misfunction P0302 - #4 Cylinder misfire This problem came on instantly. I just changed the coils and plugs. It is hesitating and running rich.

When I start up cold in the morning everyhting runs fine. Once it warms up (within about 15 minutes) it starts hesitating and running rough at idal. It smells like it's running rich and my milage drops by 4 mpg! I have about 73,000 mile so I figured I would change out the coils and the spark plugs. Nothing changed. Any ideas???

Cmoore, I had the same issue. I tried sanding the contact, contact cleaner, new bulbs...The only thing that worked was putting bulb grease on the end of the bulb.

Ray, I ended up doing exactly what you said on the ends of the old lower pipe. I took a chisel and cut the top and collapsed the metal inner then removed the remaining plastic. To anyone who reads this: Follow Rays 1-12 instructions and pay specific attention to the placement of the of the hose clamps so they don't interfere with anything that goes in after. Also, slide the rubber coupler and clamps on the lower pipe to the end and then back it over to where it should be after you line it up with the other end. You aslo need to install the "short" end first! Getting at the rear tubes is not easy!. There is a clamp that holds all three tubes together, that separates into two pieces (upper and lower). If I were to do it again I would remove the top piece of the clamp then squeeze the factrory installed hose clamps (to remove). Putting the upper tube back together, I tried installing the rear rubber tubes to the upper tubes first but I think I would have done them last. Make sure you grease up all ends of all the tubes with the appropriate lube. Definately hang the fuel rail off the hood with a wire hanger. The fuel rail rear screws can also be accessed after unbolting the manifold and moving it forward as Ray said. Then just slowly lift the fuel rail off of the manifold. The two screws or "PINS" that hold the throttle body and the y tube together are like and old-fashioned key. Turn the pin slightly so the key lines up in the holeand lift it out. I did not realize what Ray was talking about until I removed it. One of mine got damaged because it is a torx head and the pin is plastic so it stripped one of the heads. No big deal, I will replace that but the y tube can be held in place until then by any similar sized bolt. I am attaching the photos I took and you will notice I covered the valve openings with blue tape as a precaution. Good luck and I hope this helped. Tools needed: 1 torx bit set (Home depot US $12) Metric socket set (7,8,9,10 and 13 a must)

Ray, Can you tell me if I need to remove, what appears to be a piece of the end of the lower tube? Is this metal piece part of the plastic tube? Thanks, Craig

I am in the middle of the coolant tube job. Here is a photo with the tubes over the starter and one with the tubes removed. I am also servicing my starter while everything is apart. RFM is correct about the intake gaskets 2 at about $30.00 total.

3ball, The pics would be interesting to see. If you have been following the post Coolant pipe replacement you will find my replies to Ray. I will be following up on that post with my experience. I currently have the Cayenne in my garage with the intake removed (waiting on the parts). It is not a difficult job, just timely if you want to do it right. I have an occasional starter squeel so I will address that while I'm in the engine. I find it amazing that every issue I have with the Cayenne is related to a design flaw eg; (cardan shaft, A/C servo motors, coolant pipes, rear liftgate shocks etc). I would have NO problems with this vehicle otherwise. Craig

Mudman, The parts for mine totaled around $350. One of the local dealers wanted to charge me $650 (just for the parts)! I have the job 1/2 complete and am just waiting on parts. I expected the job to be a lot more complicated than it was. It took about 1 1/2 hours for the teardown of the motor. I can't believe the starter is where it is! I will be doing a follow up to this post with photo's and any additional info I come across after the parts arrive.

Ray, I will be doing this job this weekend. Thanks for the breakdown. I will try to remember to photograph everything to add to this post. Your post should help save me a bunch of time as well as guides me on how to handle the lower tube! Thanks again! Craig

I agree. Buy the warranty. Make sure they are a company that Porsche recognizes.