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uberjeph

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Everything posted by uberjeph

  1. I have 19x11 Cargraphics on the rear w/ 315/25 (fronts are 8.5, 235) on a narrowbody c2. I was running yoko avs since those run narrow but are stretched on the rim. i'm running sport conti 2s and those fill out the rim nicely; however, they are going to rub in the rear unless i dial in a lot of negative camber. my car is also lowered on hr coilovers set at the max height. I know you said 18s, but since we're talking about 315s... these rims fulfill the bling factor, but i'm going to get some 17s for track/autox.
  2. I swapped out my hi-fi option amp w/ the hi-perf amp and there's a slight problem. In the hi-fi option there are 5" subs in the door but the crossover is in the amp. In the hi-perf option the crossovers are in the funky door pod speakers. So, if you use the hi-perf option amp in a normal system, you get no bass. The solution is either put in-line low pass filters on the door subs, or add in a real subwoofer.
  3. Mike-- good to hear you did it! hopefully my tips weren't that far off... Jeff
  4. Mike-- The reason why I removed the radio was to 'fish' the wiring harness for the PSE switch through the slot where the radio was. You're right that you'd just need to remove the horseshoe (or in my case just the half since I'm a 99) to put in just the PSE switch, but I didn't see a way to fish the cable through just that space; there's a large plug on the end that goes into the PSE switch and there's not much clearance. Since I had made my own removal keys for the radio, it only took about 5 seconds to pull out anyway. As for removing the rear spoiler and/or the bumper, no. The only things i removed were the rear tires to put the mufflers on, and even then i hear you can do it without removing them (although life is much easier when you do). Hopefully that clears things up! Jeff
  5. When you have the electronics installed, just don't hook up the grey/pink wire to the relay carrier slot 23. That's the speedo wire that 'senses' the speed at which to close the vacuum valves on the mufflers. I just installed the electronics for the PSE and did the same thing. Here are some notes and pics of the install that may help you: http://www.belladessa.com/auctions/exhaust/exhaust.htm Jeff
  6. I just finished installing the PSE electronics on my '99 and did a quick brain-dump of what I did in case anybody else wants to do it. Don't laugh at my (lack of) HTML skills. Here's the link: http://www.belladessa.com/auctions/exhaust/exhaust.htm Feel free to critique. PS--this is for the newer style electronics (the 3.6 AND 3.4 version muffler).
  7. I got tired of cleaning the wheel bolts so i had the heads (not the threads) chromed. Cost about $50 for all of them at the local chrome shop. If you're not into chrome, maybe you can powdercoat them (again, just the heads). As for the threads, I just took a wire brush and brushed off the rust, i'm sure it'll be back eventually... Jeff
  8. I installed painted AS speaker grills in the doors w/o taking off the whole panel. I ended up taking out the bolts that hold the handle to the door, and then popped off the bottom half of the door panel (be careful & go slow). I undid the bolts since it allowed me to pull the door panel open just a bit more to get to the top of the speaker grill. Now you need to lay on the ground and force the panel open. Getting the pop rivets off of the posts was pretty hard. I used a thin blade screwdriver to try and bend the rivets open, then they'd slide off the posts (don't break the posts!). once they're off i'd just bend the rivets back into shape (they're pretty thin). On other ones, i'd kind of spin them off--however, they ended up cutting part of the posts off. So i ended up with some posts shorter than others which is fine as long as there's enough material for the rivets to bite into. just don't go changing out the grills more than once... Hope that helps! Jeff...now with added AS grills
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