PTEC

I've seen the same situation and what fixed it was the fresh air shut off valve. This valve is only used during refueling and is part of the ORVR system. On the car I saw, when the tank would vent it would cause a howling sound which would stop if you put your hand over the vent for the ORVR system. From the way I understand the system that valve should only be open during refueling, if its partly open during the tank vent process, you'll get a howling sound. If the sound is coming from the ORVR vent line then its pretty much the only valve that could be causing it.

EDIT: It looks like its called the carbon control valve, part number 996.605.213.01.

When the car is doing it, undo the gas cap and stick your finger in the filler neck and activate the ORVR switch. If you hear a click and the howling stops, you probably need this valve.

Removal of the tiptronic transmission requires the disconnection of several coolant hoses. The shop may have not used a vacuum assisted coolant refilling tool and there might just be air in the system. Sometimes these cars are hard to bleed, period, even if a vacuum filling tool was used.

Dont even bother with it. Take it to the dealership and let them replace it for free.

Query, imagine the car overheats in the middle of no place.  Unless you happen to have spare antifreeze on board, is it OK to only add water then limp to a Porsche dealer?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Yes. Antifreeze pretty much does exactly what its called. It prevents the water in the cooling system from freezing in cold evironments thought it does have detergents and anti corrosion additives too. I dont have a link to it but I've seen a graph about the cooling efficiency of straight coolant vs straight water and every ratio in between. A ratio slightly more towards the straight water cooled most effectivly if I remember correctly. Unless you're going to park the car is 0 degree weather overnight, then yes you could run on practically pure water.

The evaporator housing has a water drain for condensation which forms when hot air is blown across the evaporator. This is why you'll see a puddle of water under your car if you let it idle with the AC on in the same spot for a while. If the hose falls off, the floor on the passenger side will get drenched.

Two hours of labor for a hose? Ouch, that seems a bit steep.

From what I understand, there is a wire coming off the back of the alternator that goes right to the instrument cluster. When the alternator stops generating current it becomes a ground which grounds out the battery light and makes it light up on the dash. I would say you need a new alternator.

I have heard of a few cars that are having problems with the intake lifters sticking and causing random misfires. This might be your problem if your coils are in good condition.

Also if you havent had your 30k, definately change the plugs first.

06 cars are coming with reddish pink coolant, which according to Porsche is compatible with the old green coolant. I don't know for sure but I would bet its the same as VW/Audi coolant.

They are accessible from the engine compartment. Look behind the B+ jumping point and the to the left of the oil filter housing and you will see the two valves.

Who says they blew at the same moment... you may have just now noticed.

I can almost gaurantee they leave the slave connected. They will remove it from the transmission but they wont crack the lines open.

If the switch seems to have full functionality still but the low beams seem dull, its possible that you just have two burnt out bulbs. Check the bulbs carefully to make all the bulbs are coming on.

What are the two green plugs?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Ooops. I messed up when typing that, there is only one green plug on that side of the engine. Anyways there is a round green rubber plug (not much bigger than a quarter) that seals a bore formed between the head and the cam cover which can be removed to check cam timing/position.

I would say your best bet would be to clean it thoroughly and then recheck it often. On the upside, you can get the variocam solenoid seal and the two green plugs for probably a few dollars. The green plugs will just pull out. For the variocam seal just undo the bolts and undo the connector for the wire that comes out of it then pull the old seal off and replace. That will take care of the basic things that can cause a leak like that. After that you're looking at the o ring on the oil scavenging pump or the cam cover.

Hope its something simple.

Try sealing the big seam that runs behind the actual mirror glass. I know a few people who have sealed that from the inside and its taken care of a whistle.

With a brand new pressure plate and throw out bearing and (hopefully) lubed input shaft the effort is going to be less. The spring gets worn out on the old plate and the effort goes up. Also as the disc gets thinner it makes the pedal harder because it changes the angles at which every thing works so it takes more pedal effort.

I say its perfectly normal.

A common fault is the diverter valves fail. They share a vacuum source with the secondary air system and if one of the two diverter valves fails, it will cause a CEL for secondary air. You can test them by seeing if they hold vacuum (where hoses labeled 34 and 35 connect) with a vacuum pump/gauge. Its possible to test without removing anything from the engine.

The valves aren't numbered in the PET picture provided above but its the two vacuum operated valves right next to each other towards the top left.

After 48,000 miles its probably just the clutch being worn. You can get 100,000 miles on a nissan clutch... you wont on a Boxster.

Chances are... if you're rear main was leaking enough to affect your clutch you would definately see oil spots on the ground under the middle of the car, towards the rear.

Yeah those are the lumbar supports. The pumps could have shorted out or the switch may have gone bad. The switch is next to the rest of the power seat switches and is almost circular. Try pressing in all directions and see what happens.

As far as I know, boxster plastic windows are not replaceable. If i remember correctly, you'll need a whole new top or will have to go to an independent place who can sew in a new one (yuck). Im not sure on cost but a new top is at least a grand plus like 6 or so hours labor... .at least.

Try a search, there is a ton of info on this.

Why did you clean inside the bellhousing after installing the new seal? Surely with all the gritty filth, it would have been better to have it clean before installing the seal. I would not have risked damaging the new seal with a particle of grit from the housing or my hands.

That said, with the tools and lift, it looks an uncomplicated job.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

This is about one of the 10 things I noticed wrong with this write up. It sure doesnt look like you cleaned out the bores for the new case half screws. Oh well I'm sure the new micro-encapsulated bolts will still seal..... :rolleyes:

I've got a few problems with this write up, its chock full of errors and goes against porsche work procedues.

I wouldnt let this guy touch mine.

Let me ask a stupid question.  Exactly how/where/why do these tanks crack?  I'm just curious because I've never heard about a coolant reservoir tank cracking on any other car.

b-man

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Heat or something gets to them and they become porous. Maybe because the mufflers are right there... who knows.