Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)


Contributing Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by santambrogio

  1. In replacing the expansion tank I learned that the 2' cable clamp tool is very helpful in opening the hard to reach spring clamps, I got that toll at Sears for circa $ 20. I am going to try this myself, the car has no oil in it so it has to be towed to the mechanic if I choose not to DIY.
  2. In changing the oil this weekend after two quarts all the oil spilled out at where the oil filler tube connects with the crankcase. The car has a bad idle, no crankcase vacuum due to broken oil filler tube and a hissing sound also from cracked oil filler tube? I have replaced the air oil separator and the coolant expansion tank, I know it is difficult to work in this area of the car has any one replaced the oil filler tube? '00 Boxster 120,000 miles.
  3. An update, Yes the clutch arm was cracked, removing the transmission is beyond what I can do with jackstands a floor jack and a job. This was fixed by the usual mechanic, I asked him to keep the parts and in fact saw the damaged arm. Overextension of the slave cilynder is what caused it to fail, machanic installs my part, it breaks due to the clutch arm I pay for a new one. Replaced clutch and the rear two transmission mounts. Damage is $ 2,000 something, in reflectong on the fact that the car has 97,000 miles, and this is the firts time it sees a mechanic since I bought it in 2004, (2000
  4. The more research I make is seems more likely that the clucth arm is broken or the throw out bearing is worn, a leaking slave cylinder would make the pedal spongy, instead the pedal required very high effort, all the way to the floor to disingage. I have read two examples on this on forums when a replacement slave ends up over extending due to a bad arm or release bearing.
  5. 2000 base 5sp, 95,000 mi. Removed the slave cilynder after finding a puddle of brake fluid under the car, dripping from the bellhousing. Inspecting the part I found that the plastic tabs the cap / seal retainer (original Sachs part, all plastic) are broken and allow the piston and seal retainer to slide out of the cilynder. This can happen if the clutch arm is cracked allowing the piston to overextend and break the retaining tabs, it was hard to disingage the clutch a few days before. I've seen pictures of this here and on other fourums, I am reluctant to brake a new slave cyl. I bought.
  6. An update, the metal clutch slave bought at the local parts store did not fit, the bolt does not align due to the tab on the transmission case not being the same shape as the bolt hole tab on the slave cylinder. Returned the part and bought a Sachs original part. Another concern here, looking this at this and other forums, it could be that the clutch fork arm is cracked allowing the slave cylinder to overextend, breaking the plastic tabs that hold the piston seal retainer. The car has 94,000 (2000 5 sp.) miles the clutch is worn and so could be the release bearing and fork arm.
  7. Removed the slave cylinder, it is the plastic Sacks one, fluid was leaking at the rubber boot, in removing the booth the cylinder fell apart, the 4 plastic tabs that hold the cap against spring pressure fell, very little manipulation on my part, the 4 tabs are thin, I am assuming that the plastic has aged and become brittle, 13 years old part. Ordered a replacement at local auto parts store and should be here tomorrow, the replacement is Power Torque brand not Shacks, I need to finish this weekend. The part is shared with Audi which might be why is its available, the local Porsche dealer wa
  8. Thanks, This is a 5 sp. non S, I see that that part is a plastic Shacks slave cylinder shared with Audi.
  9. Clutch pedal on the floor today, towed the car back home and found a nice puddle of brake fluid under the car, so likely it is the slave cylinder. This is a 2000 Boxster 5 speed, there are two kinds of slave cylinders I see one with a clip connector, black and a long neck at the connector to the fluid line, and another type, silver and with a conventional screw in pipe connector to the master cylinder. Is one for 5 speed and the other for 6 speeds? I am not finding clarification for this online. Thanks
  10. This morning, pushed in the clutch pedal to start the car and it remained on the floor and did not release the clutch. I am looking at the manual and I am beginning to understand about boost spring, now the pedal stays either in the up or down positions. It feels as if the pedal is disconnected from the master cylinder as if the pin to the master rod is broken, it did not feel like a hydraulic fail because the pedal snapped to the floor. In recent days I had to press harder than usual on the pedal to get the switch to allow the car to start. I am looking at the workshop manual and assumi
  11. I cut open the oil filter on the 2000 Boxster, I did all maintenence on the car since 2004 and without cutting the oil filte and r consistently found yellow / amber sealant bits. When the filter was cut open I found many very small bits of amber sealant 1/64" at most and many back hard palstic bits, likely from the chain tensioners. The amount of both types of residue is far from enough to clog the filter. This is on a one year oil change on less than 5,000 miles, Mobil 1 10w-40 High Milage, the car has 94,000 miles. Not good, for many years both the bimmer motorcycle and car, both wit
  12. The SIR 9025 broke, the two prongs were of uequal lenght, the blades bent as a result. Next I'l try Lysle 56500, metal body wich better supports the blades and the metal sems to be better quality and hopefully thick enought to disingage the clips on the wire harness female connector.
  13. In replacing a headlight bulb the blue AMP connector to the headlight housing broke. Now I have to repin the new connector to the harness. I used without success a SIR Tools 12 piece swiss army knife pin extractor tool, any suggestions for a better tool or on how to remove the pins ? The tool tip that fits the connector is a 'Flat Twin Blade 1.6 mm'. Thanks.
  14. I am trying to remove the pins on the headlight connector using Sir Tools 12 pieces ST 9025, the tool tip that fits well is 'Flat Twin Blade 1.6 mm. It is not removing the pins, tried warming the connector with a hair dryier, no success. Help needeed. Thanks.
  15. Thanks, Received the connector would this one work ? Sir Tools SIRST9025
  16. I have ordered this part (999 650 150 40) it is the blue connector that plugs into the headlight unit, it is clipped to the headlight undertray, does thid part include the short harness that plugs to a body mounted connector inside the trunk ? If it is just the blue plastic plug as I suspect from the price how is the old connector remoded and the new one installed on the short harness ?
  17. One headlight, low beam, failed today. Good ideas on replacements Osram Siverstars(also by Sylavnia) or Phillips Vision Stars?
  18. After years of good service the CEL came on last week in traffic. Got a PC but not a laptop, so I need a standalone OBD reader, any model that is preferred by the this list? Thanks,
  19. Used the Pirelli website to locate some dealers, called 4 and all said that they do not have it. The tire is replaced by the Asimmetrico Rosso. So I've got to replace 2 rears, not one. This brings up a point, does the rear right wer more than the rear left? Is the limited slip diff. if the boxster has one?
  20. Could not find it at Tirerack, Pirelli P Zero Assimetrico size 255 40 17 need to replace one and want to match the opposite one,
  21. 22000 Boxster 5 sp. The pollen filter was easy to replace, strange that the plastic clip that is molded in the base does not really clip to the top of the filter, it's about 1/4" too high in the latched position. No mention of this on the manual. Lauren's pics as god as they are do not clarify this. The filter is held in its base only by the foam edges. At the same location there was a very neat wire tied in a bundle with zip ties, a lot of wire, 5' or 6' it looked factory with cloth tape, it origintes from behind the battery, part of a battery tender system? Or a factory connection to
  22. This is the plastic perch that holds the gas cap while refilling its missing on my car it looks like it should be mounted to the back of the filler door. 2000 Boxster 5 sp USA Thanks
  23. The inside of the gas cap cap door has a metal bracket that appears designed to support a plastic clip to hold the gas cap while refuleling; on my car this is missing or is it?
  24. Probably no dealer visit required. The remote alarm system shuts down after a few days. Try to using the key (the old fashioned way) to lock - then unlock the doors. If that does not restore the remote then something else is wrong. And that is what has been done, for the last two days as the car has been driven. The battery was dead, flat dead from the ign. switch not turning the car off. Only one of the 2 remote keys did lock and unlock the car previous to the ign. switch replacement. How do we get the car to receive the key's signal?
  25. The igntion key is back to normal operation. The cars turs off, the wheel locks, the headlights work without fiddling with the key. Thanks for the good info on the forum. The switch was replaced with the Audi part, so that the entire switch-lock assembly did not have to be replaced. On the two set screws I used blue loctite on top of the screws, it might have been better to use as intended on the threads as it doen not dry if exposed. Nail enamel might have been a better choice here. The cars was not driven for 2-3 days and the battery died, it has been recharged, the remoate key l
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.