NVYMED

MY 00 Boxster 2.7, manual location : CA Recently I tried to remove the oil pump housing, to fix a small oil leak....will in doing so, I broke off the rear facing flange that is attached to engine case. The flange broke off in the engine case just below the most peripheral facing O-ring. This has unfortunately happened to me twice, in two different motors. Does anybody have an idea how to remove this flange with the least amt of damage to the engine case? I've attached a few photos of the previous broken off flange that was easily removed by drilling a hole into flange, and removing with machine screw. Any help with this dilemma will be appreciated. NVYMED

has any one re-powered a 2.7 Boxster with a 3.2? I checked out nutrod, looks like great post, but it looks like a simple plug -n-play fit for the same motor. I guesss the big question, is this: can I re-power with a 3.2l Boxster motor, that is coming out of same year Boxster that is set up for auto/triptronic trans? I would love to re-power to the bigger 3.2l motor, but I'm concerned about the possible modifications that I would have to make. It does not sound like a "plug-n-play," even though it's the same model year. Anyone out there done this repower, and if so, what modifications will I need to make?....for the price of the motor, is it worth it? Do I need major changes to the ECU to make the computer "understand/recognize" the larger motor/different trans? Three different independent Porsche shops, told me that this is not a clean, or easy repowe...and they are unwilling to to the re-power. "They" say it would be added cost/labor in telling (programing) the ECU that this is a different motor, and that it is now on a 5-speed trans vs. 6-speed trans, or triptronic. Local Porsche mechanics said this is a pain in the ***, and pricey re-power. I would be using all electrical from by current MY00 Boxster 2.7 Has anybody done this engine swap, and how difficult is it? Should I stick with another 2.7l motor? Please help, as I do not know what is the most cost effective option, as well as the the easiest option...should I stick to same model year 2.7? Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Can somoeond direct to a DIY article for engine removal. I searcched under DIY forum, but I was unable to find an article Try nutrod.com

I have a MY 00 Boxster(2.7) with blown engine secondary to timing chain/tensioner failure (so says the Porsche mechanic). I found a 3.2l from a Boxster S, same model year, however the wrecked boxster it's coming from has the auto trans. Any thoughts with this engine swap to my Boxster that has a 5 speed manual transmission? Any significant changes I will have to make for this engine swap? Any changes I would have to make to my clutch to take on this bigger motor? Can somoeond direct to a DIY article for engine removal. I searcched under DIY forum, but I was unable to find an article Thanks to all for any contributions,suggestions Jason

MY2000Boxster, Thanks for the AOS info, I could not figure out where my oil consumption was occuring, pulled off my oil cap with car running-large amt of suctioning occured, and engine nearly died, just sputtered. Engine idle rerturned to normal after screwing cap back on. Definetly looks as if I found my source! I will definetly begin preperation to replace AOS. Thanks for the great post Jason

My MY00 Boxster has the same symptoms-intermittant "flashing" of oil warning light. And yes, I was getting erratic readings on my oil pressure gauge. I would check the oil dip stick, and it always appeared to be at the proper level. I was not sure if this was an AOS issue, so hopefully it is just the oil sensor, as previously mentioned Thanks

It's a porsche!...good god, spend the three hundred bucks, and have a new wind screen. Ghetto any other way

Thanks for the great article. On my MY00 Boxster it requires the removal of three bolts for each visor. T30, and T20. there is a little tab that flips open, to reveal the concealed bolt. No electrical wires to disconnect. see attached photos. Thanks again for the great article. NVTMED

Thanks for the great DIY project..I hate those **** stickers, and was planning on covering them until I read you post. My visors on my MY00 Boxster required the following to remove: 2 bolts, and 1 screw Bolts were removed withT30H, screw removed with T20H...very simply done after "fliping" plastic tab to revel concealed bolt; side closest to rearview mirror. See attached photo. Thanks again for the steps on this project. NVYMED

helps...does not show throttle body connection. Regardless, I plugged er in as you have indicated, and wah-lah!! CEL, now off!...so hopefully the vacuum hose drama is over. Kbrandsma, thank sfor you time and effort in helping me this problem...Jason

Now I think I'm confused....previous thread indicated(from my understanding) that the check valve plugged directly into rubber sleeve on the throttle body. Your pic shows vacuum hose plugged into sleeve. If one end of check valve plugs into Y connector, where does the other end of check valve plug into? There appears to be a cannister of some sort, that has another Y connector at its base..does the check valve plug in there? Thanks for your help...any website have a schematic of the vacuum hose setup?...thanks for all your help. NVYmed

NVYMED: Glad you were able to get it working properly. From what you have gone through, you'll never get stranded with the top not operating again. Fabian: Good job perservering. There's nothing like persistence to get the job done. Regards, Maurice. THANK YOU MAURICE...GREAT ADVICE NVYMED

I think that cleared things up...black side of check valve plugs directly into sleeve on throttle body. Other end of check valve plugs into "T" where the hard plastic vacuum hoses connect.... Thanks much for the help NVYMED

Does one of the hard plastic lines plug directly into female orifice on the throttle body? Seems to me that someone before me, had the check valve plugged directly into the throttle body...which is incorrect? Thanks for your help.

Not sure I understand....check valve plugs in where?

Cleaned throttle body, trying to put back vacuum hoses, got confused as to where they "plug in." Does the "check valve" plug directly into the throttle body? Does any body have a diagram of the hose configuration? Which side of valve plugs into tubing/or throttle body. I thing one or more of these vacuum hoses were not plugged in prior to me buying the car Thanks for any help that you can give NVYMED

Fabian, Just a thought...you may try and pull out cabe to one side, where it attaches to transmission. Hit top down button a couple of times. Reinsert cable, and do the same for the opposite side. It may be that your top is traveling to far forward, thus not allowing your"light" to go off. I t took me a while to synch those levers...I just kept removing the cable, and hitting "top down button" on the side of clamshell that was raised higher. Ultimately, the clamsell leveled out. NVYMED

Gave up trying to tweak the to sraight...ended up buyin another Clamsheel, and having painted to my specs...good as new.

Thanks...new to this site, have not quite poked around to find where everything is located. NVYMED NVYMED: You can use the hash marks as a general reference point, but your best bet is to start by disconnecting the cable (on the side that you replaced) and then rotating the V-lever on theopposite side (the side that was still "good") by either depressing the convertible top button on the dashboard or by placing the end of the inner cable on the "good" side in a cordless drill (set at low torque). Observe that V-lever rotating until you get a measurment of about 195 mm (7.7 inches) from the center of the steel ball on the V-lever that is connected to the black hydraulic pushrod that acts on the clamshell to the top edge of the rubber gasket that surrounds the convertible top compartment. Once you have done that side, do the same on the side where you replaced the cable by spinning the inner (speedometer-type) cable on that side with the drill. Then make sure you have re-inserted each cable into the sides of the electric motor and replaced the (upside down U-shaped) clips that hold them securely in place. After you have each steel ball (on the rearmost end of the V-lever) lined up with the above measurement, then press the black hydraulic pushrods back onto the steel balls. You can slide the clamshell arms back and forth in their respective channels until the cup end of the hydraulic pushrods get into a position that allows you to press them back on. This procedure should get the top and the clamshell re-synchronized. Since you have removed the V-levers from the transmissions, be very sure that you don't install the V-levers upside down. Because of the keyway on the back, they can only be installed in two positions: one is correct, and the other is 180 degrees off. Let us know how you make out. Regards, Maurice. Maurice, tremendous thread on getting those T-Levrs in sync. Thought about the measuring approach...but I could not find a tape measure anywhere; so I released cable from bad side, and just activated the good T-Lever...gentle taps at the top switch allowed me to get it reasonably tight. By the way, this NEW clamshell came after I twisted, and tweaked the the clamshell(now a hunk of metal ready for EBAY)....moments after the transmission cable had broke. So this was an expensive little lesson learned. Take home message: if one side of clamshell is not moving... do not continue raising clamshell; clamshell, could easily be tweaked beyond repair...as in my case NVYMED Thank you Maurice for directing this fix.....all other post equally appreciated. Thanks

Thanks...new to this site, have not quite poked around to find where everything is located. NVYMED

I have a Boxster (MY 00, 2.7) One side of "clamshell" raised as the other side remained fixed. Convertible top "motor" had stripped/or spun cable on side of clamshell that did not rise. Now that I have replaced cable, it appears that the"gears" on each side of top are out of adjustment. Q-Is there a proper technique for adjusting these gears? I see that there is a hash mark on the wheel, and hub....are these to be aligned, and then just put back in place? Any help would be appreciated...thanks

I have H&R on my Boxster(MY00), and I really enjoy the comfort and handling of the suspension...no complaints from me.