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About Yippee38

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  • From
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    '02 Pontiac Firehawk #1149
    '99 Porsche Boxster

Yippee38's Achievements


Member (1/1)



  1. Got lucky and had a new style RMS in the "new" engine. No trace of leak, though my old engine definitely had a minor leak at the RMS. Installed the IMS Retrofit today. Went without a hitch. I followed your instructions (from Jake), the LN Engineering instruction sheet, and I DID use the cam lock just to be safe. I also removed all three tensioners since I had the engine out and the A/C compressor was out of the way.
  2. I bought a set of used wheels and tires for the winter for my Boxster. The front and rear tires are different. They work great, and I've never had the problem you described. It sounds like either alignment, or something is worn in your suspension somewhere.
  3. I got one from NAPA. It's also too long. I cut it down with a few cutoff wheel bits on my Dremel, and then put a box end wrench on it.
  4. I stopped by Lowes tonight. I couldn't find any plastic stuff in the electrical department that was larger than 1". I finally asked. They looked up the barcode number and it didn't come up in the system. That means that no Lowes carries the part. We talked to the electrical expert. He said they stopped carrying that larger stuff a little while ago. I found a substitute in the plumbing department. It's a 3"-3" adapter. One side is threaded, and one side it smooth. Both have a fairly wide wall. The threaded side is thicker, so I plan to use that side if possible. I'll use the other side if the threaded doesn't work. There is also a small ring in the middle that can be used to brace the wood insert. I don't have the RMS or the engine yet, so I don't know for sure if it will work. I'll update when I know. Barcode number is 6 11942 03200 6.
  5. I'm in the process of removing my engine to replace it. I'll be doing the RMS and IMS on the replacement engine. What kind of glue did you use to hold the plywood "floor" and "top" in the ABS coupler?
  6. Good idea. I've looked at that before, but I didn't see much recent activity. Thanks.
  7. Yeah. I guess that's what I'll have to do. I thought maybe some people here had done that kind of swap, but apparently not. Either they all have had a shop do it, or nobody does that swap.
  8. I only see the tool on this page (My link) and it's listed for $136. I guess I have to call them. Still hate to spend $70 on a tool that I will only use once. Oh well.
  9. I will give that a try. I didn't ask the shop because I'm not having him do the work. I figured he might not want to waste his time helping me when he's getting no work/income out of it.
  10. Pedro kinda bypassed the DME issues by changing the heads. Since people can swap in the 3.4s and 3.6s without using the 2.5 heads, there has to be another way to do it. That's what I'm asking about. I don't want to rebuild the head (resurface and valve job), so I don't want to pull them or swap them. The gaskets will add cost, and the swap of the heads will add time and complexity. I'm hoping there's another way to do it, and somebody can tell me what that is.
  11. Yeah. However, I figured maybe somebody has already done it and doesn't need the tools anymore. Maybe not, but I had to ask.
  12. I'm going to be replacing the engine in my '99 Boxster (thread about engine replacement) with a used engine. To get maximum reliability without spending $15k+ on a bullet-proof engine, I'm going to replace the RMS and do the IMS retrofit using the LN Engineering bearing. I may also replace the AOS and the water pump. I know that replacing the RMS can be a bit tricky as if you push it in too far, it will pop inside the case, and that would be a very bad thing. I also know that the IMS retrofit requires a few specialty tools. Does anybody have the tools to properly do these jobs that they'd be willing to either rent to me, or sell me used? As I mentioned in my other thread, I really need to very carefully manage my budget on this project, and I'd really rather not spend $200 or so on tools that I will use for one job and never use again. So if you've done the job, and spent the money on the tools, I figure this is a way you can recover some of that money, and I can save some money. A win-win.
  13. My '99 Boxster engine recently died. I'm going to be swapping the motor myself as soon as I source a used replacement motor. This car is my daily driver, and money is really tight right now, so I have to get this swap done as quickly as possible, and as cheaply as possible. I will likely put in a 2.5L engine, but right now I haven't been able to find one in the mileage range I'm looking for; they're either really high mileage engines, or really low mileage engines, both of which make me nervous. To give myself more options, I've started to consider putting a 2.7L from a 2000-2002. I won't do a 2003+ engine because of the DME issues and the added costs associated with that. Cost, and time, are the reasons I'm not going with a 3.4L. I've seen some info on putting an e-gas engine in a non-e-gas car, but no specifics. From what I can tell after hours of searching here and on other Boxster sites, I have two options: 1) I can keep the pedal from my car and put the intake and throttle body on the 2.7L engine to make the engine non-e-gas. 2) I can get a gas pedal from a newer car and wire it to the DME somehow. I would also need to wire the Variable Resonance Flap. The pros of going e-gas would be possibly a slightly larger intake, and therefore I wouldn't be losing power as I might (if the 2.5L intake is smaller). The downsides would be the additional cost of having to buy the pedal (which shouldn't be that significant), and losing the ability to apply throttle while braking on the track. Am I missing anything else? So my questions are: 1) If I choose to stick with the non-e-gas setup, a) is the 2.5L intake significantly smaller than the 2.7L intake, or are they the same size? Is there a difference between the intakes on the 2.7L Boxster vs. the 2.7L Boxster S engines? b ) is there anything else that I need to wire up on the 2.7L engine in the non-e-gas car? c) the 2000-2002 engines are on the 7.2 version of the DME, where my car has the 5.2 version. I assume that means the 5.2 DME will need reprogramming. What specifically needs to be done? 2) If I choose to change over my car to the e-gas setup, a) I need to run a wire from my pedal to the DME. Where are those connections (what pin)? b ) The Variable Resonance Flap valve needs to be controlled by the DME. This requires (from the Pelican Parts article), "You wire this solenoid by running one wire to a 12V source and the other wire to pin 59 on the DME (the DME controls the valve with a switchable ground)." Is that accurate? c) Is there any other wiring that needs to be done, and if so, specifically (what pins) must be wired? d) Would the DME reprogramming issues be exactly the same as in case 1) above, or are there any differences? I've found lots of information on swapping 3.4s and 3.6s into the older Boxsters, but very little on putting a 2.7L into them. Anything I have found has been vague (other than the wiring on the variable resonance flap, which, for a change, is specific). I'm looking for the specifics. I don't want to find issues when the new engine is in the car. I'd like to be able to address them up front so the swap can go smoothly.
  14. I can't help you with those, but I can tell you that I put on the Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetrics and they are fantastic tires. I am really impressed with them both on dry and on wet.
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