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lebow71

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Everything posted by lebow71

  1. lebow71
    Thanks for your comments mffarrell. Cost is not as much of a concern (covered by insurance) as having one side of the car look different than the other as I have heard arctic silver is tough to match. I have not heard how much the factory paint differs from car to car though. I have purchased parts from DC Auto in the past and found them helpful.
  2. lebow71
    My '99 996 Tiptronic 32K miles got side swiped last week. Damage is limited just to the drivers door, but will need to be replaced as dents are too severe for repair. Exterior was perfect on the car. Body shop wants to order new door panel, paint and 'blend' paint into front and rear fenders as they say it is impossible to match the color exactly. My thought was to try to source a used door from a dismantler. My paint code (under the hood) is L92U - Arctic Silver. The code from under the carpet by left light assembly reads: 92U 8 Q Arctic Silver X1 Questions is, aside from the L92U are any of the other numbers & letters related to the paint color and what is the possibility of another used door in arctic silver actually matching my paint? as the car is 12 years old I'm sure the new clearcoat will have a much more shine to it than the rest of the car... Look forward to thooughts/suggestions.
  3. lebow71
    I was experiencing the usual electrical problems (lights, fan, defroster not working) due to the ignition switch. After a quick stop I went to start the car and it did not turn over. Lights on dash came on and battery indicated lots of juice. After switching the ignition switch as outlined in the link above - still the car would not start. Looking for suggestions on what to look for next. (Car is 1999 996 tiptronic)
  4. lebow71
    Problem solved. It was the ignition switch - it would recoil to the left after starting but not all the way (needed another 2mm). All lights, fans & rear window defrost working.
  5. lebow71
    I am experiencing the same problem with my '99 996 Tiptronic. Purchased the car 2 weeks ago with 30,000 miles (50,000 kms). Fan for ac stopped working at the same time my daytime running lights (Canadian car) also have issues - I am only able to have the park lights illuminate - no low beams. High beams will work. Also noticed that the rear window defroster does not work either. (all were working during the PPI and for the first 2 weeks / 500 miles) No problems starting the car and no sticky ignition. Any suggestions?
  6. lebow71
    I have a 2001 Boxster 2.7 Tiptronic. Airbag fault codes: -195 Unknown Code -102 Unknown Code -3 Power Supply Dealer suggested replacing the airbag control unit. Also wondered the part number (US car) and if switching the part requires programming by the dealer, or if there are any DIY instructions. Dealer here quoted $900 for part & labour. Ebay has used ones on for $200... Thanks, David
  7. lebow71
    I agree, and have been looking for a while. My thinking is that the overall conditionof the car is pretty clean and the fact the new engine only has 12,000 mls on it seems like an advantage. It seems like the prices have not come down much over the past year and may have even gone up a bit. I am looking on the autotrader & cars websites. Any other suggestions for sourcing a car?
  8. lebow71
    I am currently considering purchasing a 2005 997S. It has 60,000 miles on the clock with the engine replaced 12,000 miles ago with new factory motor installed by local dealer. Dealer would not say why engine was replaced but Porsche covered 1/2 the cost even though the car was out of warranty so I am assuming it was the IMS... My question is - Are the replacement engines from Porsche updated with the new bearing? Car seems like a good deal at $39,000 as it is in good shape with lots of options. I have had a pre purchase inspection and nothing come up other than the engine mounts should be replaced (not sure why that wasn't done with the new motor) and the battery is not the correct size. Appreciate everyones thoughts. David
  9. lebow71
    Thanks Loren, the codes are 47, 33 & 61. the problem are that the passenger window does not drop the 1/4 inch (intermittent) when lifting the inner or outer door handles. The lower door light does not iluminate when the passenger door is open but does when the drivers door is open. Windows function properly with the window controls and when raising and lowering the top. When unlocking the car I get 2 beeps of the horn and no flash of the exterior lights when locking or unlocking the car. Any help is appreciated. David
  10. lebow71
    I have this same problem (2 beeps when locking) but only intermittently. Are there any wiring harnesses that I should be inspecting? The doors lock and unlock properly, the lights sometimes do not flash when the car is locked, the red light on the door lock switch on the center console sometimes stays illuminated and the passenger window sometimes is a little slow (1/2 - 1 second) to lower the 1/4 inch when opening the door. I live in a damp climate and recently had to clean the wiring harness to the emergency brake in order to lower and raise the top... I'll see about adding codes to the post later.
  11. lebow71
    I have a 2001 Boxster 2.7 with the 'tiptronic S' transmission. Is this the same transmission as the Boxster S (3.2) or are they different part numbers? I am looking to source out a used transmission and would like to know if they are specific to the Boxster and Boxster S. I have found a 2002 tranny from a 3.2 Boxster. The ZF Model number is 1060 030030 Thanks, David
  12. lebow71
    The Codes that were scanned are as followed: P1126 oxygen sensing adaptation-lower load range bank 1 P1133 oxygen sensing adaptation- lower load range bank 2 P0107 ambient pressure sensor P0102 Hot film maf sensor P1128 Oxygen Sensing adaptation idle range bank 1 -22 Load Signal, DME Control Unit(Transmission Fault) Alarm Codes -33 Passenger Compartment monitor Sensor -47 Control Locking Synchronization -61 Central Locking Limit Position Unlock Not Reached Airbag Faults -3 Power Supply -195 Unknown DTC -102 Unknown DTC I have since replaced the MAF sensor and the car is running much better and the CEL is staying off. I still experience some "shudder" when going uphill under load. Have not had a chance yet to inspect the engine or transmission mounts... David
  13. lebow71
    not sure what material the metal shavings are or from exactly but here is a photo. Car is shifting better since the fluid change but under high torque and low rpm's (usually going up a steep hill) I have had instances of a shudder. Other times it will sound like it down shifts and the rpms go up however it stays in the same gear. It doesn't feel like there is much slipping at the moment.
  14. lebow71
    I have just had the 90,000 mile transmission service on my 2001 Boxster 2.7 tiptronic. Mechanic found metal shavings in the pan and was suggesting there may not be much life left in the transmission. Has anyone rebuilt a tiptronic S transmission or can recommend a reputable rebuilder in US or Canada and what a reasonable cost would be to expect? thanks
  15. lebow71
    Replaced the MAF and the car drove noticably better... for 3 days and this evening the CEL came back on. Have to get back to a shop to have the codes scanned again. Thanks
  16. lebow71
    I have a problem with my passenger seat as the switch that reclines and raises the backrest will move to the recline position (from a neutral position) but will not move forward (from the neutral position) to raise the backrest forward. Motor seems to work fine. Seats were originally from a 996 and are now in a Boxster. With the exception of the backrests they are the manual type. Has anyone experienced this problem? Thanks in advance, David
  17. lebow71
    Looking for some suggestions on what direction to take here as I have had varying opinions. 2001 986 2.7l Tiptronic 90,000 miles. One shop want to check for vacumm leaks and change the AOS while another is suggesting to replace the MAF. No excessive white smoke (except for the odd time on start-up) One clamp was loose and subsequently tightened on the air intake hose. CEL was cleared and car ran noticably better until CEL came back on (40 miles later). The Codes that were scanned are as followed: P1126 oxygen sensing adaptation-lower load range bank 1 P1133 oxygen sensing adaptation- lower load range bank 2 P0107 ambient pressure sensor P0102 Hot film maf sensor P1128 Oxygen Sensing adaptation idle range bank 1 -22 Load Signal, DME Control Unit(Transmission Fault) Alarm Codes -33 Passenger Compartment monitor Sensor -47 Control Locking Synchronization -61 Central Locking Limit Position Unlock Not Reached Airbag Faults -3 Power Supply -195 Unknown DTC -102 Unknown DTC Will have the first transmission service done. I was quoted $430 for OEM parts and $330 for aftermarket but looks like Pelican charges about $80 for the kit + fluid ($160). Am I missing something here or is the shop just upcharging that much for the parts? For the other codes I am debating purchasing a durametric cable and software and dive into DIY repairs. I am definately an amateur mechanic but interested in learning more about my car! Thanks in advance!
  18. lebow71
    Thanks RFM. The water that was getting on the right side of the car was definately from the rear drain tray. entire right side floor was soaking wet all the way from front to back. Left side is recent moisture and different. Below the seat seems dry. No water around black box and no water under the carpet rear portion of the carpet (under the seat) as I am able to pull it back enough to get my hand in to feel floorboard. Front left side is where the moisture is. I can not get under the carpet there as I have not attempted to remove drivers seat yet (also not sure how to remove plastic piece where the hood and trunk release is). Feels like the moisture is mostly along the left side just below the fuse box along to where the front drivers seat anchoring bolts are. Does anyone know what the possible ways water would get to the front of the drivers side but not the back? Thanks in advance!
  19. lebow71
    Hello All, I have been experiencing continued problems with water getting into the cabin of my 2001 Boxster 2.7 Tiptronic. Repaired the right rear DRAIN TRAY which had a hole. Have removed the passenger seat twice and pulled back carpet to dry it out. I have not had enough time to totally dry it out (but getting there). Notice moisture now on the drivers side but none around the black box thankfully. Back drain trays and drain holes look good. Poured water down them and it exited the car where it should. Checked front drain holes and I am thinking not so good. Passenger side is clear and looks good although I have a clear plastic 1/8" tube that is not connected to anything. Not sure what it is for (see pic). Drivers side DRAIN HOLES may have issues. On the one closest to the battery there is the rubber liner but when i feel inside it 1" down there does not appear to be anything (drain hose) attached to it. There is a second drain hole further to the left which has the same rubber liner but has a square rubber block stopper about 1" down so nothing is getting through (see pic). QUESTION: How do I access the routing of the drain tubes? If I remove the front wheel and wheel liner will they be visible? Are there supposed to be one or two on the drivers side?
  20. lebow71
    Thanks everyone for the suggestions. The tear WAS from the push rod so I will look closer at the 'foot print' of the frame base as well as perform a drip test. There was a substantial amount of water so I am hoping it is just the process of the foam drying out. Will report back after the weekend! So after some difficulty locating the correct socket to remove the seat bolts I started the task of drying out the foam undrlay on the carpets. I was amazed at the amount of water the foam can absorb!!! I did not have a heater / fan powerful enough to dry the foam - it would have taken weeks at the rate it was going. I am now looking at removing the carpet completely and letting it hang to dry outside of the car.
  21. lebow71
    Thanks everyone for the suggestions. The tear WAS from the push rod so I will look closer at the 'foot print' of the frame base as well as perform a drip test. There was a substantial amount of water so I am hoping it is just the process of the foam drying out. Will report back after the weekend!
  22. lebow71
    Hi All, I have been trying to locate the cause of water leaking into the passenger side of my 2001 Boxster 2.7 Tiptronic. I have read the other posts and found a cut/tear in the rear right side foam drain tray. I purchased a replacement drain tray but wound up patching the original in place with similar foam and waterproof glue/rubber cement. (I did not want to fool too much with removing the top assembly) Patchwork was completed almost 2 weeks ago and checked the underside of the frain tray and it seems to have a very good seal where the tear was. I had a substantial amount of water inside the car which I soaked up with towels, but did not have a chance to remove the seat and lift carpet and dry out completely. After continuing to soak up minor amounts of water on a daily basis between the seam of the floor carpet and the lower carpet section behind the seats it continues to get wet. (could this just be the dense foam underlay continuing to drain?) I am going to remove the seat and carpeting tomorrow to dry thoroghly and would like any suggestions of any and all additional areas to look for possible water ingress. The car is a daily driver and I live in the Paciofic NW and we are in the rainy season now so any and all suggestions are appreciated!!! David
  23. lebow71
    Try 9308 or 9306 Thanks Loren, Neither of the codes worked - unless I have to push additional buttons befoe/after entering the code. Any suggestions? Thanks again!
  24. lebow71
    Help please for CDR220 Becker 4462 Y5046607 24/99
  25. lebow71
    I just purchased a 2001 boxster 2.7 and somewhere along the way from having it shipped from So Cal to Seattle the airbag light came on. Looking for any members in the Vancouver BC area who have or can recommend a repair shop that has the Durametric software, a PST2, or PIWIS to locate what tripped the sensor and reset it. (The only adjustments I made was adjusting the steering wheel position and not sure if that would set it off) Thanks, David
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