Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

spg356

Contributing Members
  • Content Count

    78
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by spg356

  1. Thanks, that is a great first step. I am also looking for what to do after that. In other words, a kind of a flow chart of what to try and in what order if you were to have the same problem. Regards,
  2. Greetings, I have a rough running '86 911. It is a 30,000 mile original car, 2nd owner. Was running fine and then all of a sudden it seems to be running on 4 or 5 cylinders. I do not believe it is the gasoline as it started to run this way at half a tank from a fill up from the same gas station I've always used. No backfires, spitting or pops; just runs rough as. I could start with puling plugs to see which cylinder is the culprit, but I would like some more ideas before I start to work on it. I have lots of general suspicians but would like to know what you would do in this situation. D
  3. Guys, I recently replaced my coolant tank but forgot to get a new cap in the process and I still had a leak. I have a new cap ordered, but noticed that the threads on the tank were a bit rough in a couple of areas. The image shows the worst area, on the other side is an area with just a tiny bit of roughness. I assume this was done when installing the old cap on the new tank. Question is, will this damage the new cap or perhaps keep the new cap from sealing the tank? Any help is greatly appreciated.
  4. JFP and Cassiebox, I cannot believe it, it was the battery. I never bothered to check it all this time since the car would eventually crank (at what seemed a normal rate) and it never lost its charge. It tested bad with only 440 CCA. A new battery and good to go, it now starts to crank without any delay. I am always appreciative of the advice given here, Sebastian
  5. Guys, '98 5 speed with 99k miles, I've owned it 4 yrs and started with 41k miles. Since I've owned the car, the starter has been slow to engage. I turn the key and there is a pause of anywhere from a split second to two seconds before the starter begins to crank. To remedy this I have: -replaced the electrical portion of the ignition switch -replaced the clutch microswitch -cleaned all grounds and connections at the starter It never got better but it never got worse, until now. It still starts but the pauses are always longer than shorter. Sometimes I have to release the key an
  6. Thanks Loren. It will be installed today.
  7. Guys, 1998 5 speed with a small leak starting beneath the coolant tank so I am going to replace it. I have access to a very competent independant tech with little Boxster experience. I do not question his ability to do this job but I want to give him a good idea of how long it typically takes to replace one. Pelican tech article says 4 hours but that is geared towards the do it yourselfers. Any opinions?
  8. Loren and All, Is there a similar app for the Iphone? Regards,
  9. And please do accept my apologies for being so cynical and skeptical in my reply. I stand corrected and welcome to Porsche ownership!!! Regards,
  10. This is the first time I have ever seen someone claim that Porsche stated there were a certain number of "defective" engines. The smoking gun? I doubt it. I don't mean to be harsh, but do you have any documentation from the dealer that verifies what you say they told you about this issue and the specific number of "defective engines"? The reason I ask this is that what you describe is quite the hot button for many owners, and there have been people that post such things on various forums looking for information for their class action law suits (that have no chance of winning). Again, if t
  11. Loren Turned out to be coil pack on #5, I am back on the road and car now runs great. I have 5 more coil packs ordered along with 6 new plugs as it has been 40k since last changed. Thanks!
  12. Thanks Loren, Will do and I will also report back as to what I find. Regards,
  13. Guys, '98 Boxster 5 Speed, 82,000 miles Among other things, at 41,000 miles (2 1/2 years ago) the car received new fuel filter and new Bosch Platinum 4 plugs in the correct heat range. 41,000 later this is the first issue of this type. Two weeks ago i overfilled the fuel tank and got an evap cannister CEL and cleared it. Today the CEL came on so I headed for home to check with Durametric. Just as I pulled onto my street the CEL started to flash and there was hesitation at around 3000 rpm's so I coasted in. Durametric shows P0300, P0305. P1317, P1319 all misfires (Cylinder #5??). I
  14. Hi MIke, I should probably stress that my point was really that even with a perfect match, the paint reflects differently on steel than it does on plastic and other materials. So even if a hood and fenders are painted with the same paint and at the same time as a bumper cover, it can "look" different. Some times people do not notice this until after the car is painted and then have an issue with it. A good shop will point this out to you beforehand, as kbrandsma's shop did. Regards,
  15. Blues, Shops will use whatever paint system they are set up for, whether it be Glasurit, PPG, Sikkens etc, etc. Formulas change constantly so even the original paint would have to be tinted to get a perfect match. They will start with the factory paint formula and tint and match from there. Many will use a spectrometer that "reads" the paint and shoots out a matching formula, but sometimes even that needs to be adjusted to match perfectly. Be sure to stress to them that the paint match must be very good, but also keep in mind that painted metal "looks" different than painted plastic. Befor
  16. I understand the stress; I went through the same thing before buying mine. A fellow emailed me and said this: "let's say that the failure rate is 10% (which it isn't, that's too high), then you have a 90% chance of nothing ever happening. Go buy one and enjoy it!" I took that advice and never looked back.
  17. Thanks Mike! I'll buy two bulbs tomorrow. Regards,
  18. Greetings, '98 Boxster 5 speed 80k miles. My driver's side headlight bulb is very dim in the low beam setting, but the high beam works fine as does the flash to pass. The right side headlight works fine in both low and high beam. The plastic housing is not discolored nor is it pitted any more than the right side. I did a search but only came up with threads where both headlights were dim and most answers were about checking the HL switch. Any ideas? Could it be a ground or a bulb? Any thoughts on where to start are greatly appreciated! Regards,
  19. Jeff, It looks like cleaning the contacts solved the problem, the light has not flashed since doing so. If it flashes again without any coolant level issues, then I will know to just replace the sensor. Thanks again!
  20. Thanks Jeff, I will clean the connections, and if that does not do it I will then replace the sensor. Regards,
  21. Greetings all, '98 Boxster 5 speed 79k miles. My temp light flashes intermittently. The coolant level is fine and there are no leaks anywhere. Sometimes the light flashes and sometimes it does not--there is no pattern as to when it does or does not. Searching the forum I found these possibilities: Four functions of the coolant warning light: 1. Engine coolant level too low — light flashes slowly (0.5 Hz) 2. Engine compartment temperature too high — light flashes slowly (0.5 Hz) (engine compartment blower might be faulty) 3. Engine coolant temperature too high —
  22. Be careful as this can be a slippery slope. I lost my one and only key on a '98 and it was $700 total with the tow and two programmed keys. No mention of reprogramming the alarm control unit on my earlier model year car. The keys can only be programmed by the dealer and I believe (correct me if I am wrong) the key must be cut at the factory and shipped to the dealer. They then mate the key blade with the remote head and program them to the car. The slippery part is buying a remote key head elsewhere that may not be compatible with your car, no matter what the seller says. Step
  23. Guys, Thanks for the replies, Alignment was good when tires were switched, but I will have that rechecked. Mike, All 4 tires are less than 2 years old, temps have been around freezing. Also, pressure is 29 front 36 rear. Any other thoughts appreciated!!! Regards,
  24. Guys, '98 Boxster 5 speed with factory 17" wheels. Long story made real short: Today I mounted General Altimax Arctic 225/45 on the rears; upfront are (excellent with one season's use) 205/55 Dunlop Winter Sports so each axle has the same tire, but they are different front to rear. On the highway driving home (dry but cold conditions) the car felt "squirrely" almost like it was swaying with each movement of the steering wheel. It felt better on surface streets, but nothing like summer tires. The car didn't feel as stable. This is my first time driving on winter tires so I do not know wha
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.