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Everything posted by spg356

  1. Just FYI, the car wash admitted to “maybe getting the door sill a little wet”. Switch replaced and all works as it should. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Thanks in advance for any ideas. After having my 2005 997 cab washed, I noticed that the trunk was popped open and the spoiler was manually raised. I believe the spoiler was raised as part of the car wash but as I neared the car I could hear the trunk release motor activating every few seconds. I fiddled with the remote and the release switch in the door sill and finally got that to stop. After that releasing the trunk or the engine lid with either the remote or the door sill buttons became intermittent. Eventually the two door sill buttons stopped working altogether and the remote did as well
  3. Loren, Thanks as always for the guidance. I now have this figured out thanks to you and Renntech!
  4. Greetings, I have lost the outer cover to the airbox on a 1990 962 C2 part# 964.110.030.05. While searching for a cover or even another entire assembly I am not finding that particular box. What I do see readily available are assemblies with the part# 964.110.030.04. Will this assembly fit or is it entirely different? I'd like to know because the source where they are available there are no returns (eBay). I have contacte several dismantlers, all without success so it looks like eBay is the source. Thanks in advance.
  5. I should clarify, while the gauges were “properly tested“ they behaved in their unruly fashion when tested. Sorry for any confusion. Also they were not tested with the Durametric, I have access to Autologic.
  6. Hi Ahsai, Thanks so much for the quick response. To answer your questions-- yes and yes! It is really odd, all is connected properly and tested, but still issues with the analog gauges. Any other suggestions are very much appreciated.
  7. Greetings, The title says it all. I installed LED back lighting in my 2001 996C4 and now the analog gauges are "wonky". Speedo goes up to 150mph and then back down while driving normally, amp gauge reads wrong, fuel gauge pegs past full, tach does not register at all etc, etc. Has anyone experienced this before?
  8. Thanks for the replies. We will do the recalibration as Loren provided to see where that gets us. Once done I will report back.
  9. I am aware of the saddle bags fuel tank setup I have on my 2001 C4 and that the gauge should estimate remaining fuel after 1/2 tank. However, my gauge just stops at 1/2 tank and stays there. Since it never reads lower it is up to me to estimate on my own how much fuel is left which has led me to run out of gas twice now, so I want to do something about it. After much searching here I read about many different issues with these C4's and their fuel gauge woes, just not this one in particular. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
  10. To anyone who is following this topic: It CAN be done and is not as nearly complex as you might think. After my initial post I received an email from another forum member. He informed me that he had done the swap successfully a couple of year ago and that while it was not bolt on/plug and play, it was by no means as difficult as the internet would have you believe. He was amazingly helpful during the process and the only reward he wanted was knowing that another 3.6 swap would be done. I am currently driving the car with no issues, it has terrific power & drivability and I could not be
  11. Try 1213 Hi Loren, It worked perfectly thanks so much. Also, I donated again to the forum as I had not done so in a long while so i figured it was time....
  12. Hi Loren, For my CDR-220 SERIAL# Y5048014 Thanks Much!
  13. Greetings, I have searched this subject and obviously much has been written about it, and I am trying to determine if this project is worthwhile. I inherited a 2001 996 C4 (actually was an asset of a repair shop I purchased last year) and it has a “story”. Blown 3.4 engine long gone, now a 3.6 bought from Parts Heaven is installed and running, but has similar symptoms I have read about related to VariCam and VariCam Plus issues. The project was put on hold when the old GM left the business (it was to be his driver), and the car was an asset of the business when I bought the shop from the o
  14. Greetings, Very well maintained 1998 Boxster 5 speed 112k miles. A few days ago I started the car after sitting for a week or so (I usually drive it daily) and upon startup it ran as if missing on a cylinder or two for about 10 seconds, then smoothed out and ran fine. No engine light came on at that time, but two days later it did. I checked the codes with my Durametric: P0446 Porsche code 95 Shutoff valve activated charcoal filter, P1126 Porsche code 356 Oxygen sensing adaption lower load range bank 1 and P1124 Porsche code 167 Fuel pump relay final stage open circuit. I cleared the codes an
  15. Thanks T, I will do that. Another suggestion I received was to replace the electrical portion of the ignition switch as it causes crazy electrical problems as well. I had another odd problem with the car a few years back and the new switch solved it. Regards,
  16. Guys, '98 Boxster 5 speed, 111,000 miles. Cold morning here in Michigan, however I drive my car year round. When I got in the car this morning and started it, the driver's window was going up and down about a quarter of an inch and the door lights were on. The only way to get it to stop was by pressing the window switch up. The window would stop for a bit before going again, but the door lights never went off. When I got to my destination, the window stopped but the door lights stayed on so I removed the bulbs. On top of that the doors will not lock. I am guessing the door light swi
  17. JFP, I cleaned the buckle receptacles with electrical contact cleaner, cleared the codes and now the airbag light has been off since Sunday. Hopefully that was it; as always I appreciate your help! Regards,
  18. Will do, I assume I should reset the code (I have a Durametric) after cleaning the buckles. I'll get it done Sunday and report back. As always, thank you.
  19. JFP, Yeah that has been a nagging thing. Would you recommend replacing the gold plated grounds too? I did them already when installing the new buckles the first time and wonder if they need to be done again. Thanks,
  20. Greetings, I have a '98 5 speed with 110k miles. Within the last three years and 30k miles I recieved the airbag light with seat belt buckle codes. I replaced both seat belt buckles along with splicing and soldering in the four leads with the gold plated and greased contact springs (grounds). I now have a code for the passenger buckle. The question is, would I also need to re-do the grounds as well as a new buckle? Thanks,
  21. JFP, I use high ZDDP oil (Brad Penn) in my 356's. I understand that the ZDDP is bad for catlytic converters and that is why modern oils have phased it out, yet it is still good for the old flat tappet non-cat engines. Sebastian
  22. JFP, After your thoughtful response, I ordered the LN bearing and will return the factory bearing. As you said, another $400 on a $2,000 job.....you'd hate to look back and say "I shoulda spent the extra dough..." Now, another hot button topic. With a car that has 107K and a soon to be installed LN bearing, which oil should I use? Since 40K on the odo, the car has received Mobil1 0-40 every 5K miles religiously. And to Porsche Pilot.. thanks so much for the extra emphasis! Regards, Sebastian
  23. Thanks JFP, I highly value your opinion. I ordered the parts today along with the puller, but went with the Pelican parts factory bearing with a stronger seal. I certainly do not want this to become another IMS bearing thread, but how much do you like the LN bearing over the Pelican modified bearing? It's another $400 for the LN bearing which I will pay if it is vastly superior (or the Pelican bearing is vastly inferior!). Thanks, Sebastian
  24. Greetings, I will be doing a clutch replacement on my '98 5 speed with 107k. I am looking into replacing the IMS bearing and have questions regarding the puller that Pelican and LN sell. 1) Is it necessary to do the job? 2) If so, are there any do-it-yourselfers out there that will rent or sell me one? I am a longtime 356 Registry and PCA member and will do right by anyone that can help with that, it just seems that almost $200 for a one time use tool (in my case, at least) is a bit much, so if you have one just laying around..... Also, Pelican sells an IMS bearing with a stronger out
  25. Yes, dealer serviced the entire 30k miles. Thanks again for the replies, any other things to check are quite welcome!
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