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umn

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Everything posted by umn

  1. umn
    Was that for a manual transmission? Apparently it takes about an hour longer to get out an automatic transmission. Nonetheless, $1800 seems an awful lot. Also, I completely agree with your second comment that it is important to find a dealer who does it on a regular basis. Whether the repair last or not depends (among other things such as crank alignment) definitley on the mechanic's experience. Cheers, Uwe
  2. umn
    What a pain. That's what always happens, isn't it? You think you're doing a nice 30min DIY job, and the something like this happens ... Easiest way to solve the problem is to swallow your pride and just drop by at a friendly (!) Porsche dealer, possibly an independent. As they are dealing with this kind of stuff all the time, they seem to have a knack of getting these things out in no time at all. I wouldn't touch one of these DIY "easy out" with a ten foot pole, because they are very brittle and like to break, and if one breaks in the plug, you really have a problem. I'd go with TP's recommendation: Best thing is to sharpen a triple square (sharper edges than a torx) and hammer it in. Make sure the engine is warm before you do it. Because of the different thermal expansion coefficients, the alumin(i)um engine will expand more than the steel plug and the plug will be easier to get out. Best of luck, Uwe
  3. umn
    Read the article in a bit more detail. One crucial thing they forgot to talk about is what needs to be greased using what kind of grease. If you don't grease the release lever and clutch mechanism in the right places (and nowhere else), you'll have to redo the whole procedure half a year later, because the clutch starts creaking and gets stiff. Cheers, Uwe
  4. umn
    Thanks Scouser - just stopped at a petrol station on the way home and got the mag. Here are my thoughts: - Getting the gearbox out of a 996 is *a lot* easier than a boxster, because you don't have to bother with the exhaust, which is notoriously painful to get off. Nor do you have to bother with the rear bumper. - If you know what you are doing, you should get the gearbox out in under 2 hours. And, fortunately, there aren't too many things that can go wrong. One thing that can be a right pain is getting the gearbox off the engine (you want to lower the engine by about an inch), especially if the dowel sleeves have become stuck. - You do need a mandrel to center the friction plate, but you can make it yourself easily on a lathe. - The real problem is putting in the new RMS. I don't think they make it clear enough how essential the Porsche tool is. Without the tool, it is virtually impossible to set the seal (1) squarely (2) at the right depth and (3) in one go. Take it from me, using their "wood and small hammer" method ain't gonna work. You'll do the same job 5000mls later. I don't know if you can buy the tool, but if you can, I'm sure it would only be economically viable if you share it among a few people. Making one yourself on a lathe would be possible, but it's a lot of effort. All this considered, it would probably be easier to follow their advice and give it to an Independent. Cheers, Uwe
  5. umn
    The fallacy is to just add up the numbers. I very much doubt you get an extra 20 HP just from a different intake and exhaust, the system is too finely tuned for that. Also, I wonder if the remap is supposed to give you 20HP at the top end. Usuallly, re-mapping in naturally aspirated engines is most successful in mid-range where the manufacturers have to be conservative with their mapping to comply with exhaust and noise regulations. It is an old trick of re-mappers to to promise a nice gain but not tell you in what range. Customers always assume it is top end, but that's not sure at all. I'd be extremely sceptical of anything much in excess of 15hp top end just by the three measures you mentioned. If a tuner was going to promise that, I'd insist on before and after dyno runs on a neutral dyno and put the promised top-end gain +/- 5% in the contract. 50% payment up front, rest upon successful completion. Neutral dyno is essential, don't trust a dyno graph you haven't falsified yourself. Cheers, Uwe
  6. umn
    Hi, if you can't find anything obvious, I'd hook the car up to a PST. Idle is controlled by the Motronic, and chance are that it's getting a wrong sensor signal from somewhere. As the problem is always around in idle it should be fairly easy to diagnose. An iffy MAF usually manifests itself in a lumpy idle. Cheers, Uwe
  7. umn
    Hi, You'll be pleased to hear that the engine can stay in the car. It is a real fiddle to get the pump out, which also involves removing the rear engine carrier. I guess they'll charge you a good couple of hours of labour for it, plus the 300-400 bucks for the water pump. Cheers, Uwe
  8. umn
    Don't know about US legislation, but in most European countries there could be warranty or goodwill issues if things go wrong with your car. Apart from that you are right: The 15,000 mls service is a rather overpriced oil change. Cheers, Uwe
  9. umn
    Hi, by far the cheapest place in the UK to get brake pads seems to be europarts. Their web address is www.eurocarparts.com . If you go to corporate->banch locations, you can find your nearest dealer. They'll offer you Textar or Porsche genuine. Get Textar, they are much cheaper and identical. I've actually taken them out of their boxes and compared them. I paid 69 quid for 4 front pads. Cheers, Uwe NB: Your new pads might actually look slightly different from the old once, as they now have funny little weights (vibration dampers) attached to them.
  10. umn
    I'd just recommend a few things: 1) Get yourself a hand impact driver (should cost you less than 20$) to open the two little sunk cross-head screws that hold the discs in place. With an impact driver they come out no problem, but with a screw driver (possibly even the wrong one) you'll damage the head and you'll have one hell of a job getting them out. When fitting the new discs, put in two new screws. Don't tighten them much, b/c all they do is hold the disc in place if the wheel is taken off. 2) De-grease the new discs ***everywhere and very carefully*** before fitting them. They are usually covered with some sort of oil to prevent corrosion during transport. Use brake-cleaner to get the stuff off. 3) Clean the surface of the wheel hub where the disc fits *very carefully* such that it is clean of any rust or corrosion and *do not grease* this surface. - If you don't clean it properly, the disc will not be absolutely level with the wheel hub and start vibrating or wear unevenly. - If you have grease between disc and wheel hub, there will be no frictional connection between disc and wheel hub, and most of the brake force will be transferred through the wheel bolts. Not very good. The same holds true between wheel and disc. 4) At the front, there is a left disc and a right disc, which can be distinguished by the cross-drill pattern. Cheers, Uwe
  11. umn
    Hi, there is no cam gasket, it is just sealed with a silicone-type sealant (used to be Dreibond, now something different). The pain is getting the old sealant off the mating surfaces. The other problem is that you can't just take off the cam cover, because it also also acts as the bearing for the camshafts (except for one extra bearing on the side where the timing chain is). So if you just take off the cover, the camshafts will try to fall out. AFAICR, there is a special tool to hold down the camshafts, and it being inserted through the pastic bellows where you insert the spark plugs. Seems not an obvious DIY to me. Cheers, Uwe
  12. umn
    Hi, looks like Mintex are actually part of TDM Friction, one the main manufacturers of brake pads and friction materials in Europe, who also own the Textar (996 brake pad OEM) and Pagid brands. Cheers, Uwe
  13. umn
    If you want to use them legally in Germany on public roads, they need to be approved by the German equivalent of the Federal Motor Vehicle Authority, the KBA (Kraftfahrtbundesamt). You can tell by the KBA-Number stamped on the back of the pads. Otherwise you'll void the vehicle's operation permit (Betriebserlaubnis). Don't know if that's of relevance to you ... Cheers, Uwe
  14. umn
    I'd be very surprised if that was true. Certainly my 996 was tested with the mandrel at **** Lovett Porsche in Swindon. Cheers, Uwe
  15. umn
    Why don't you call up Porsche (0711-911-0) and talk to the "Exclusive" department in Werk1? They are used to those kinds of problems and are usually quite forthcoming with their knowledge. With some of the seats it is quite easy to get more legroom by just fiddeling with the rear seat stops. They just remove a bolt or something. Headroom is more difficult. Sometimes they can just remove a bit of padding, but with 996 sports seats I don't think there is much padding in the seat. I wonder if they can lower the whole seat. I'd give those guys a call and see what they think. Cheers Uwe
  16. umn
    Hi, when I was visiting the Porsche factory a couple of weeks ago I was told by one of the guys in charge of spares that Porsche intends to publish a CD with the 996 workshop manual next financial year (08/04-07/05). As we all know, all sections are already available in electronic form, but at a ridiculous price. Apparently Porsche now intends to sell the whole manual to private individuals on an as-is basis (without updates) for about 50 Euros, something they have to do in order to comply with changes to the European block exemption rules. Cheers, Uwe
  17. umn
    Which is not very helpful in case of an RMS failure (part 10$, labour 500$) :soapbox: Gruss Uwe
  18. umn
    The answer might be of general interest ... Not that I have broken the little plastic cover, but I have pushed the rubber seal into the roof rail in some cack-handed attempt of cleaning my car. All efforts of pulling out the seal have failed, so I assume I have to take out the roof rail. How would I do that? Is it just a matter of undoing those two screws and then the good old plastic spatula? Cheers, Uwe
  19. umn
    No. The whole system (airbox, intake manifold, variable cam timing, exhaust) is finely tuned in terms of resonance frequencies and gas dynamics (open and closed end reflections). If you change one thing, you are likely to screw up the system. You can get better sound tough :cheers: Cheers, uwe
  20. umn
    The reason they do not approve them is that the lower profile tyres on 19" wheels have less "give" (higher spring rate) than tyres on 17" or 18" wheels, resulting in higher stress on the suspension which can eventually lead to failure of the wheel carrier/strut assembly. That's only an issue when you drive on a track though (or on Welsh/Irish roads :cheers: ) Cheers, Uwe
  21. umn
    Yep, idle speed can't be adjusted, it's programmed into the DME. Idle is supposed to be 700 min-1 w/o aircon and about 820 min-1 w/ aircon, but you can't accurately tell by the rev counter. Incidentally, this change in idle changed with later versions of the DME. Also, idle w/o aircon is always a bit lumpy. If it is very lump, it could be some build-up on the intake valves or high levels of petrol in your oil. Either way, some spirited motorway driving will usually get rid of it. Cheers, Uwe
  22. umn
    The issue with mixing different types of coolants is the compatibility of the corrosion inhibitors, which does matters for street driving. Cheers Uwe
  23. umn
    As it happens only when you shift into 2nd (either up or down), I would suspect a problem with the synchromesh. That would be bad news :( :( :( Cheers, Uwe
  24. umn
    I'm sure he won't, because as Loren pointed out, you do not need to remove the calipers to change pads. If you have to remove the calipers for some other reason such as changing rotors, that's a different story. In answer to your question, it is not always possible to tell from visual inspection if a bolt needs changing or not. I am a little surprised to hear that Porsche recommend changing them, because other manufacturers don't. One reason would be if the bolt was to be tightened into the plastic range. However, the bolt is M12x1.5x72. Under the conservative and most likely assumption of bolt grade 8.8 and a coefficient of friction of mu=0.125, the recommended torque would be 83 Nm, which is pretty much the 63 ft-lb that Loren mentioned. I can therefore only assume that they are concerned about progressive crack growth during cyclic loading, which could occur due to loss of preload (or because someone hasn't tightened them properly in the first place). Anyway, I don't think there is anybody in this forum who can answer this question. Considering the low price of the bolts and the importance of the part in question, I would probably go with Porsche's recommendation. Cheers Uwe
  25. umn
    Hi, the RMS problem hasn't been fixed yet. They've come up with a few new seals, tools and installation procedures, but the problem seems to be intrinsic to the engine design. Also, the G96 gearbox is a bit iffy. Rattles also seem to be a persistent problem. We had mine all fixed in the factory, but after a couple of years they start re-appearing. It is, unfortunately, a consequence of the plastic clip-in rather than screw-in design. I don't know about current US prices, but if I was in the market for a used Porsche, I would definitely consider buying a used 993. Obviously an older design, but much better build quality and, at least in Europe, much lower depreciation. Depending on your personal needs, however, this might not be an option. Cheers, Uwe
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