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JimB

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Everything posted by JimB

  1. When this happens, will the car idle or do you have to feather the gas to keep it running? If you won't idle, you might look at the variable valve lift connections. The symptoms sound about right. In simple terms, your car uses a different amount of valve lift at idle and low rpms than once you get going. I think this is just a smog deal. Your car will not idle unless the computer is sending a positive charge (12v?) to both cylinder heads. If you have a loose wire, corrosion or a confused computer you could be having the problem you described. I would think you would get a code but who knows. Just an idea. Jim
  2. Thanks Loren. I marked the cables as you described when I installed it. It worked fine but after a couple of years of racing I'm having trouble every now and then. Specifically shifting from 2nd to 3rd at red line. I thought I would check the alignment. As always, thanks for the info. I'll order the blue one. Jim
  3. I was under the impression that people were using the little orange tool from Porsche to adjust their B&M short shifters but it doesn't seem to work on mine. Is there a trick? Jim
  4. To be compliant with PCA rules I need to convert the front of my 99 996 to 2002+ headlights, fenders, etc. Has anyone done this? Jim OK, next time I'll read the new posts before asking a questions. Please ignore!
  5. It's correct that most club races run Hoosiers. I have no idea why you wouldn't want to use them other than the fact that they cost lots and wear out fast. As for sizes, most everyone runs 245s in front. They come in both 35s and 40s so you can match their height to different rears. In back, you probably don't want to run 285s. Many of us do but they are really intended as a front tire for Viper/Vetts and don't wear well in back. I like them because they are short which is a little like running a shorter rear end. Your best choice is probably a 245/40 - 275/35 combo. Just in case you haven't run Hoosiers before, they will last for a few weekends of DE but really only maintain their original grip for about 6 heat cycles. You might want to also have a look at Pilot Sport Cups and the Kumos. I don't remember the name. All this was assuming 18s. I don't think there are enough 19 options yet. Hope this helps, Jim
  6. I'm always looking to take a couple of pounds out of my racecar. I have to have the headliner in but I'm guessing there is probably some insulation above it that could go. This is a fairly big project because it requires that I remove parts of my cage. Has anyone had their headliner off? What's up there? Thanks, Jim
  7. Thanks Loren. Do you know where I would find it on the car? I want to make sure I've got it right before I have them paint my new MKII parts.
  8. Ok, I can build a 996 race car but I can't find the paint code on a 2002 cab. Help!
  9. Thanks Loren. It almost looks like they could work. The 997 panels certainly cover more area and appear to make for a much flatter bottom. Jim
  10. I suppose this is a tough one but someone on here might have both a 996 and a 997 and know the answer. Or, Loren might be able to tell from the manuals. It's my understanding that one of the ways Porsche kept the 997 slippery while adding the bulges was by changing the panels on the bottom of the car. Does anyone know if this is true and, more importantly, if those panels can be retrofitted to the bottom of a 996? Now I would never consider this for my race car due to the fact that it would be illegal :D but I would be interested in knowing if it's possible. Jim
  11. Thanks Dell. That's what I thought. Jim
  12. Any suggestions on a very heavy, very well make cover for my race car? Like everything at the track, it will take a beating. Being washable would be a plus. Thanks, Jim
  13. Dell, Can I assume you ordered the MKII lip rather than the cup car lip? I tried putting a 02+ cup car lip on my race car's MKI nose and it would not fit. It was too square. You can kind of see that in Loren's picture. Thanks, Jim
  14. That's a great list that I would only add a couple of items to. 1) Fill you gas tank as full as possible. This will stop condensation from developing in the tank. 2) When you move the car, push it. Don't start it. 3) You can also use steel wool to block exhaust pipes, etc. Rodents can't eat through it. Jim
  15. Hw, Whether your wheels will fit has little to do with the diameter. It has everything to do with width, offset, tire size, ride height and camber. Jim
  16. Billy, I think the adjustability of the Pss9s is worth it but only if you are going to use the car in such a way that you can take advantage of them. With PSS9s you can adjust height, rake and compression/rebound. You can also corner-balance the car. These adjustments are very important if you want to optimize your car for the track or, I guess, really fast street driving. They are a waste if you just want the car to look and handle better. Jim
  17. On tire sizes, there is room for way more tire than is optimal for your car. I once ran 265/30/18 MPSCs on the front of my 996. I've also run 305s Hoosiers in back. That doesn't make it a good idea. I think the optimal tire combo is 245f - 285r. I think with MPSC you would have to settle for 235s in front. One of the great things about the 996 is that most all of the suspension components can be interchanged. I have cup car lower control arms, RSR adjustable rate springs, RSR/cup car rear tie rods, etc. Just make sure you understand what you are trying to achieve and how the parts you are adding are going to effect the performance of the car. Good luck. Jim
  18. Thanks for the help guys. I opened the top and looked over the seals and, like everything else on the car, they looks brand new. I'll give Gregg's trick a try. Thaks again, Jim
  19. Last week I traded my 993 Cab for a 2002 with just over 8k miles. Great car. Unfortunately I took it through a touchless car wash and it leaked like crazy where the a-pillar, window and top meet. We're talking gallons. I was soaked and actually pulled off my shirt to mop up the water on the seats. Any ideas? Jim
  20. Gregg, How do you think I came up with the suggestion? Been there. I think occasional stupid moves give us character. Chicks love that. :D Jim
  21. Ah great! I had just talked myself out of trading my black/black 98 993 cab for an 2002 black/black cab and now this. I'm calling the dealer now. :jump:
  22. Gregg, I would jack the car up and see which wheel will only rotate the 12 inches and start troubleshooting from there. This sounds just liike the problem I had when I put thinner wheels (rain tires) on my race 996 with the long bolts. Jim
  23. Any chance you had spacers on your summer wheels and used longer wheel bolts?
  24. Landlwilson, You received several good hints on Rennlist and Renntech. I'm curious what you've eliminated? Have you had the car in the air and checked your tie rods (my guess), wheel bearings, ball joints, swaybars, etc.? The problem you describe could just be your springs, dampers, sways, tires, etc. not working well together of it could be something like tie rods or ball joints that should be fixed ASAP for safety. Jim
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