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2002 Boxster S - headlights won't come on full bright. When I rotate the switch to on position, lights come on but very dim. High beams won't come on when the switch is pushed forward, but they will operate when pulled (i.e. flash to pass). Any ideas out there on probable cause and how to troubleshoot? Thanks!
I just finished the 90K on my 2002 Boxster S. A couple of items I'm chasing and hoping for some ideas: 1. I recently replaced the window regulator on the passenger door when the window stopped dropping to open the door. The new regulator fixed the problem - for a while. Now about 2-3 months later, it's erratic. Before I rip the door apart again, any ideas on what I should be looking for in there? 2. During the inspection just finished, I noted a tube (with a clip still on it, and it's end melted) hanging down near the brake on the front right. It wasn't causing any problems, but I have attached some photos in hopes of someone being able to tell me what it is and what to do about it. Thanks John
Will, I won't be able to lift it for a couple weekends when I can get access to a friend's lift. In the meantime, I've broken down and got Durametric software. More info than my generic OBD II reader gave, P 0410 Porsche fault code 80- Secondary air injection system cylinder 1-3 P 1411 Porsche fault code 208- Secondary air injection system cylinder 4-6 P 1128 Porsche fault code 360- Oxygen sensing adaptation idle range bank 1 P 1130 Porsche fault code 361- Oxygen sensing adaptation idle range bank 2 P 0507 Porsche fault code 32- Idle air control system exceeds limit value Does any of this shed any more light?
So... as you can see in the attached picture my engine is set up a bit differently. the part I described as a manifold can be seen, with a hose running to the left rail, and the end of the hose that runs to the right rail as well. The third line parallel to the one going to the left rail drops down and corresponds to 8 in the diagram you provided. So in order to avoid disconnedting the push on type hoses at the rails, I'll have to get under the car, remove the covers, and disconnect the line down there. Am I right to be concerned about detaching the hose from the rail?
It appears there is a single connection at each rail, but that these are just push on type. I'm worried about damaging those lines while pulling one off. They meet up at a single fitting from which a line (presumably fuel from the pump) leads forward under the passenger compartment,
Back at it. My Bentley manual shows how to disconnect fuel lines from the rails but uses photos from a pre 2002, presumably 2.7l engine. It states procedure is similar for later models, but I'm not seeing the fuel line connection at the right rear as in the photo. Where would I look on my car? Do I just need to disconnect one rail?
I haven't done these sorts of checks before. How do I go about checking MAF values and fuel delivery/pressure? I understand that looking for air leaks is a matter of methodically going over all the vacuum lines, and I've read up on various ways to look around, like using an unlit propane torch or the like. A professional would have a smoke device I gather, but that's too pricey for a one-time fix. Thanks for any suggestions/guidance!
I tried swapping the CPS with no improvement in starting performance. So far, the car has always started but I'm a bit leery of driving it anywhere for fear of winding up stranded. Is there a chance the hard starting is related to the codes? I haven't had the chance to chase the leaks yet due to other projects on the list at home, but I hope to try to go after it this weekend. I'll check the vac hose as you suggest, San Rensho, to get started.
2002 Boxster S, 90K miles, 6 speed. History over last year included an IMS bearing failure and subsequent engine rebuild. Symptoms: Car started throwing codes 1128 and 1130 a few weeks ago. Starting has always been very easy on this car, but along with the codes it became very labored- starts to crank very slowly for several turns then fires up. Idle seems slightly rough on occasion. I've also noticed an odd smell when I climb out after driving; hard to locate but most prominent in rear of vehicle and suggests something hot or burning. So far: Cleared the codes the first time it happened, and they reappeared around a hundred miles later. Cleared them again, same result. Did some research which suggested MAF sensor might be at fault; replaced that and symptoms reappeared again. I've since cleared the codes again, and once again they've returned. I've done a bit of research and it generally suggests MAF or an air leak into the oil system. Cap is on tight and AOS was replaced a bit over a year ago; I do seem to have a hard time getting the dipstick to seat properly and stay seated, but the last time I got the codes, I checked and it was down in it's receptacle with the O-ring in the neck where it belongs. Does anyone have suggestions where to go with this next? I've searched this and other boards and coming up blank. Thanks in advance. John
Well, I was so bummed by this whole thing I never did close it out... it was an IMS bearing failure, long story short I have the car back now, engine rebuilt by a shop Raby-trained mechanic, and a few hundred good miles on it so far. Very expensive...