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N41EF

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Everything posted by N41EF

  1. N41EF
    Or, you can go to Advance Auto Parts, catch them when it's not busy, tell them what you did, and they will clear the cose for you for free. You ca also buy any cheap OBD2 scanner that will clear it.
  2. N41EF
    I'd start by replaceing the electrical portion of the ignition switch. Then if things still act up check the fuses and conections into the climate control module.
  3. N41EF
    Congrats on finding that low of milage car. The fact that you found a mouse nest makes me wonder what they chewed on. Here's what I would do: Flush the brakes with a pressure bleeder to make sure you have good fluid and no leaks anywhere. Drive it enough to get it completely warm and change the oil and filter. Assuming you have no CEL the vaccum lines are prob ok. Pull the cover from behind the seats and check the belt to make sure it isn't chewed. I'd replace the pollen filter, and pull the air filter out to make sure it isn't chewed. Remove the battery and check the fuel lines under the plate under the battery. The tires are old, I'd drive it, but not hard, you are prob going to have bad flat spots until you buy new. I replaced all four (17 inch) at sears and got an allignment for under $600. Let us know what you find, or if you get any codes.
  4. N41EF
    If the car was really running when parked, and won't start after sitting, I wouldn't worry about catastophic engine failure so much. I have bought several cars, site unseen online and had reasonable luck, as long as the person you are dealing with are straight with you. I've seen mice chew wires, fuel pumps gum and fail, and a host of electrical gremilins especialy on computer cars. If they charge the battery will it crank when they turn the key? If it will crank over but not fir, as long as the engine doesn't make "expensive" noises it's just a matter of troubleshooting and fixing it. Engines are still a matter of fuel/air/spark unfortunately there are a dozen things that won't let spark happen. Assuming you have a decent set of tools, and are mechanically inclined, go for it. Let us know if you buy it, and what you find.
  5. N41EF
    I'd change the oil to look for coolant in it, then do a compression check. Check for oil in the expansion tank. The oil cooler can be a source of water, so it might be something simple. Compression will let you know big picture if the engine is good. A leakdown test checks rings and wear. You can get a compression tester cheap if you can't borrow one. Let us know what you find.
  6. N41EF
    I'm sure everyone has an opinion here, but I'd change the oil at least once per year. I'd do it right before you put the car up for the winter, drive it to get it to normal temp, change the oil and let it drain at LEAST the half hour, then a new filter and fill with new oil. Start it to get is well circulated, then park it. Not letting it sit with old oil gets all of the contaminants out of the engine before it sits there for months, minimizing localixed corrossion int he crankcase. I also flush the brakes every two years (and replace the "lifetime" coolant) just to know there is no contamination in the system. Brake fluid is cheap, calipers are not. Don't forget to flush the clutch is your car is a manual transmission. Flushing the brakes is an excuse to have all of the wheels off, check brakes, bearings, cv joints, suspension and such.
  7. N41EF
    After reading a few things online, I got down and shined a flashlights in the two outboard radiator inlets and did see a few pine needle and leaves. I put it off for a few days and today tackled it. Tools are minimal, a torx, phillips, and panel poppers. If you have an S you need a 10mm and 13mm toget to the center radiator. I used two floor jacks to lift the front and remove the front tires. The total time was right at two hours start to finish. Yes, there were a few leaves, and such, but by the time I opened up all three and founf almost three pounds of crap. Sand, bugs, trash, more stuff than I ever imagined. There are two screws to remove to pull the AC condensors out and can get get the stuff between them and the radiators. You could see a little stuff, but when you pulled the bumper and the duct, the crap poured out. My car had just over 75k miles on it, if you can see ANYTHING in the duct, you need to clean them out.
  8. N41EF
    Computer cars are touchy and can get all out of wack. Mercedes actually has a procedure on how to disconnect the battery to normalize things, something like this: 1. Charge the battery completely, start the car and let all it idle several minutes, then turn it off. 2. Leave the alarm off, as in doors unlocked, open trunk and allow a few minutes for all of the computers to go to "sleep". 3. Disconnect the negative lead on the battery for 10 minutes. 4. Connect negative terminal, you hear clicks and such as the car wakes up. 5. Wait 10 minutes before opening door, the window may or not drop when you lift handle, if it doesn't lower start car and lower window with switch before closing door. 6. To normalize windows, press the concole switches to close the windows, and hold the switch in close for about 10 seconds, you may hear a click as it remembers. 7. Open the door from inside, the window should now drop, and when you unlatch the roof the windows shouls drop as well. That info, paraphased comes from a SLK 350 manual, but It's the same concept. Post you "I need a radio code" in the radio code thread, Loren or one of the other sages will help you there. Welcome to the family, let us know how it works.
  9. N41EF
    Your car has 4 O2 sensors. To see if it is a sensor or a wiring problem, you can remove the two upstream sensors and swap them, Clear codes and start it until you get aa CEL. If the fault stays on the same side, it's a wiring problem, if the fault moves, it's a bad sensor. I'd do the upstream, and after you check that swap the two downstream senors. Based on the age and milage, You might think about buying and replacing the two upstream sensors, since they are the ones that affect the engine computer, the after cat sensors monitor cat effiiciency. You'll need a 22mm wrench or a O2 sensor sockey to remove the sendors. A word of caution, you will find people selling generic 4 wire O2 sensors, I've never had one work right. I tend to buy Bosch replacement, either through Sunset, or a local auto parts place. Let us know what you find out.
  10. N41EF
    You didn't drop it or bang it around when you had it off? A cast part like that can crack if it is hit wrong, then once you put the stress on it it fails. Check one of the online salvages for a used alternator. I've had good luck with on in Oklahoma, and the one in LA. Check all of the pulleys, and for any play in them. My water pump had a "wiggle" in it at 70k when I replaced it.
  11. N41EF
    I bought my '03 S in 2008 and it has been my daily driver since. As long as you have something else it makes alot of sense to me. I also have a Land Rover Discovery 2 that we use as the family truckster when we need to haul things. I have driven it in the snow by accident, and as a rule I drive it every day that I won't need to haul more than one person at work, or need to pick something up. My logic buying the Boxster is that it's comfortable to drive, averages about 26 MPG commuting, and is just a blast to drive. I've made many roadtrips to Atlanta, Charleston, and High Point in it, it does as well ont he highway as my 2000 C class Benz. You can get a 50 pound pail of chlorine sticks int he front trunk, a 20 inch pizza box in the back. I also hauled 36 feet of baseboards and 3 boxes of prefinished hardwood floors in it with the top down, there are pictures.
  12. N41EF
    M6 is the size, as in the diameter. the 20 as in 20mm long. So a M6-20 is M6 and 20mm. Home depot stocks alot of common sizes, you might try Lowes or your local auto parts stores.
  13. N41EF
    Did you open the vent when you filled it? Under the black plastic cover around the fill port and oil port. Take those two caps off, and pull the dipstick out, and then the cover will come out. Lift the wire up and it will vent the air out. Open the vent, fill it up, and start the car. It may also help to drive the rear of the car up on ramps to make the coolant jug the highest point in the car.
  14. N41EF
    The Durametric is very comperable to Ross-Tech's vagcomm. Allows you to see and talk to every computer on the car. Unlike ross-tech they offer a home and a pro version, the home version will only let you use on three different VINs. They pop up on eBay alot used on one car. I have a generic OBD2 reader for checking temps and such, but use the Durametric for serious stuff. I bought an older version used, can use it on multiple cars.
  15. N41EF
    I installed a 160 degree thermostat from LN Engineering. Manufacturer claims a HP gain is dyno proven. Car does run cooler which is better for engine life.
  16. N41EF
    I run Sylvania Silverstars in my Boxster and the Land Rover. Great experience, available everywhere (Advance has them on sale now) and while brighter than stock, no headlight damage. I did not have good experience in my VW Beetle which is a diesel. Many Diesel owner have problems with the going bad in about 6 months, most likely due to the vibrations. The Boxster has had then for 2 years, the Rover 3 years, no burnouts.
  17. N41EF
    And, if I was going to replace the mount, I'd replace the water pump, serp belt, and install the 160 degree thermostat all at the same time since you are there.
  18. N41EF
    Mine was... notchy going into first, and I would sometimes grind the 2/3 shift. Part of it was cured my changing to royal purple gear oil, but as soon as I dropped the plastic cover I could see the mount was worn. I believe the 987 part supersedes the 986 part. If you take a look at the pictures I posted above There is a difference. The mount "wears" with the weight of the engine siting on in the donut and causing the bottom to compress and the top to tear. Mine shifts like new after the mount change and the gear oil change.
  19. N41EF
    Part is about $125 or so. Add 2 or so hours labor. Not hard to do, just takes some wiggling.
  20. N41EF
    If you are a PCA member, Panorama magazine just did the first part of a three part series that answers this question. If you are new to Boxsters, I'm guessing it didn't spin a main bearing but had a IMS bearing failure. Search here for IMS, it will scare you at how many fail. Take a look at LN Engineering and Flat 6 for ideas on rebuilt engines. There are several places selling used engines, LA Porsche sells engines on eBay, you'll need the DME for the new engine. There are several engine swap threads on here, most of the choices depend on how much you want to do. Getting the engine in and wired doesn't seem to be the hard part, getting it to run correctly is the problem. Find a friend with a PTS2 to get the computers to talk to each other.
  21. N41EF
    Not sure which switch is which, but there are two functions that come to mind. There is a starter interlock switch that won't start the car until the clutch pedal is pushed almost to the floor. The second switch disconnects the cruise control when you barely push the clutch pedal. That should help you figure out which one you broke.
  22. N41EF
    Actually there is an important tool you'll need. I found out my oil drain pan only held 8 quarts, not the 9 plus the boxster hold. You need a BIG drain pan, I bought the bright green 5 ish gallon pan that Advance sells. Also about the right size for coolant drains too. Buy a Boxster, it'll pit a smile on your face so big a speeding ticket won't take it off.
  23. N41EF
    Did you replace the black plastic switchpart? Or the entire assembly with a new white switch?
  24. N41EF
    I have no idea what pressing tool you would need, I don't know of when it would be required. On the inside joint there is a cap on the back that protect the joint, tap it off, then clean the end of the shaft. There should be a circlip that keeps the axle from pulling out of the inside joint. Remove the clip andcut the boot and slide the axle out. Remove the band from the old boot, remove the boot and clean the inside joint. The inside boot comes off by sliding down the shaft. Cut the banhds, slide it off, wipe the outside joint clean. Check the joint for signs of damage and any "bad" feeling areas when you rotate it. If good, repack with CV grease, Install the outside boot, slide the inside boot on, install inside joint, pack it, then band the boot and istall dust cap. I tend to just cut the boots all the way around and remove them in two pieces. I've reused the dust cap on VW's I believe the Bently's says to replace it when rebuilding.
  25. N41EF
    If they are already removed, rebuild them your self. You'll need snap ring pliers and a cv boot clamp tool to install the new ones.Sunset had a kit they offered, one per boot with an OEM boot, two rings, and a greese pack. The six speed cars have a higher angle from trans to the wheels and the boots just don't last. As long as you got it before the joints went dry, or got grossly contaminated you should be fine re-packing and installing new boots. The shafts I bought from Sunset were OEM in the box with original Porsche labels, they were an updated part number than what was installed on the car from new. It's been a year but it was about $1000, and was the cheapest I found for OEM parts. There are some things I don't skimp on.
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