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Everything posted by N41EF

  1. Yes the door panel has to come off to check it. It isn't that bad of deal, the Bently explains it pretty well. Go to Harbor Freight and get their 5 piece plastic door panel popper set. Go easy removing the silver C shaped piece from the inner door pull, easy to scratch. As you pull the panel away from th door, there are several small wire connectors for the door handle, the light shining on the ignition switch, and the light for the handle, Remember where they go, and remember to plug them back in.
  2. Mine doesn't work once in ten openings. If you take the red lever that unlatched the saftey catch, hold it all the way over and let the spring thunk it back in place, my light comes on. If you don't open the trunk often it gets dticky.
  3. R1 Concepts has drilled, slotted, and plain for just about anything. They have a few different manufacturers, but I've used the drilled Zimmerman on a Volvo and had great times with them.
  4. There should be two metal clamps for each boot, a big one and a little one. You should be able to install the clamps once it's back on the car. The clamps keep water out and the grease in. You need them.
  5. I suspect you have a fuel level sender problem, or as Pedro said it needs to be calibrated. Does your car have the original cluster in it? Since gas (and oil) is lighter than water, and the pump sucks at the bottom you don't have a water problem, you have a fuel problem. Remember that the pump is cooled by fuel going through it so running it low or out of fuel is really bad on it. How long have you had the car? Is this since you've had it or is it something new? A plugged fuel filter wouldn't care how much fuel is in the tank. I'd pull the pump/sender out and check it over, Make sure the sender is the right part number. There have been issues where someone changed a cluster or sender and the gage wouldn't indicate correctly. Some times they can be coded, sometimes not. Let us know what you find.
  6. I had to loosen the rearmost strut rods, that run from the eliptical adjuster to the lower rear part of the spindle. I marked them prior to loosening, but still needed an alignment when it was done. There is a mid-point bolt on that arm, but it will allow the strut to swing out and forward to give you enough room.
  7. Yeah, it's involved. With the right tools took me about 5 hours to remove and replace both shafts, not including repacking or replacing boots. With the axle off, there is a cover and a c clip to remove and the inner joine slides off, then you can do the outer boot. Sunset told me about a "kit" using Porsche parts to repack all four joints, replace all four boots, and new clamps all around, about $130 if I remember right. I have my old axles bagged, waiting for me to get around to rebuilding them when I have notheing better to do.
  8. The noise you hear inside the car is the interlock switches. As you press the clutch pedal in there is a click as you just start to press it, that click is what kicks the cruise control off, and as you get the pedal almost to the floor, there is a second click which is the switch that lets you start the car. As you slowly release the clutch pedal from the floor you can hear the two clicks as these switches clear. My car makes a sharp metalic click, not sure that you can feel them in the pedal, don't know that i've ever tried. You can hear them well with the car off, just cycle the pedal and see if that is what you are hearing. If the clutch isn't slipping, I don't know that it would be the disc chattering. Does the noise stop if you put slight pressure on the clutch pedal? Or do you have to press the clutch in to make it stop? It could be cv joints, does it gey better or worse driving n circles to the right and left? It could be a bent or broken finger on the pressure plate, that is usualy with a high pedal pressure, or uneven pressure. Does it make the same noise accelerating, coasting with the car in gear, and decelerating (engine braking)? if you plan on replacing the clutch, think about upgrading the IMS while you are there. Let us know what you find.
  9. Assuming the battery was disconnected for the work, the ECU may have gone to factory norms, and may take a drive cycle to adjust itself. Technicaly nothing that was done should affect the power the car is putting out. When my wife says things like that. I open the hood, fiddle with things and tell her I adjusted the flux capaciter and it should be much better. She drives it the next time and says it is.
  10. I've had several Actrons. Good for reading and clearing codes, and reading temps, but won't clear ABS or Airbag lights.
  11. I tend to replace both bulds when either bulb goes. Keep the "spare" one to use in fog lights or other things. VW New Beetles have a lever mechanism that pops the headlights out pretty sweet. Especialy if you don't know how long the other buld has been in there, why not replace both.
  12. Do you do the work on your own cars? The CV boot is about $$85 to replace the pair here in the US. A new shaft is about $550. Rebuilt shafts are cheaper. "S" cars with a manual are hard on boots, if you have one split it's time to replace all four. I replaced both axels, then rebuilt my originals so I have spares.
  13. Your car will need a cycle or so to re-learn it's parameters. You might also try filling with fresh gas and see how that goes. If it's been a while since you've drivien it, it may be your ears that need recaiibration. Yop up and top down also has a big effect on the audibles.
  14. Do your warning lights come on when you first start the car? turn signal indicators? hig beam indicator? Is the only thing missing the illumination for the three gages?
  15. I was under the impression that a whine when the air pump was running was normal. On a quiet exhayst car you can hear them much better. As long as it comes on when it is suppossed to and shuts off when it was suppossed to, let it run. You probobaly are just noticing it because of the drop in temperatures lately.
  16. Doing the 60k yourself isn't a big deal. Figure: $70 for the oil change (2 5 quarts and a filters from Advance) $50 for the 6 spark plugs $30 for the serp belt $25 for the air filter $25 for the pollen filter $15 for rear diff fluid $25 for coolant and a gallon of DI water I believe the rest is just inspections.
  17. It's coming up on the 60k service, which if you don't do it yourself, isn't cheap. I'd flush brakes and replace coolant and water pumo OE only. Check the CV joints and brakes. Check the tires, at that milage the rears are prob due for the second replacement. If they went from 16k to 14k, I'd start at about 12.5k and go from there.
  18. Cruise control is in the cluster, there is no module as in some cars. If you do a search on how to install the cruise control or add it to a car you'll find a tutorial on how it gets wired. Yours is different from most faults I've read. There is a fuse that supplies power. If you turn the cruise off on the stalk, turn the car off and then start it, shift to drive, can you turn the light on then? I believe the cruise is only enabled in drive. So the light going off, kind of stumps me.
  19. I'm pretty sure the right/left refers to which side the positive terminal is on. Many of the universal batteries make a right and a left version. The positive terminal is on the left of tha battery as you look at the "front" of the battery, but it's actually on the right side of the car (passenger side in the US). The boxster battery tray on mine has I believe three hols to fit three different length of batteries. The battery seemd to be a long low style common to german cars. Common sence would be to buy the smallest lightest that has the ratings required. I did pick up a tip from a battery guy. If two batteries are the same size and the same ratings, but the heaviest one if you want it to last a long time. Heaver batteries in theory are made with larger plates and will last longer since there is more lead to sluff off.
  20. My 2 cents. A car is worth what someone is willing to pay for it, books are an idea, but I've seen wild swings in what two different books say. A convertible sports car is worth more in CA than in Maine. If you are handy with tools and can find a Bently's manual and a durametric cable there isn't much on a Boxster you can't do. You are coming up on the 60k service, which is the sort of thing I do when I buy a used car, replace the fluids and filters just to know they were done. Plugs are also due at 60k and the serp belt. I'd think about doing the water pump and replacing the coolant for piece of mind on a 10 yo car. Tptronic S cars aren't as hard on cv boots as manual cars. Try to get it on a lift so you can check underneath for leaks and damage. I think it's high, I'd expect closer to 15k depending on options and colors. Had a friend here in SC buy a base '01 recently for 13.5k with less than 50k miles, it did need tires all around. As a point, I paid 20.5k for my '03S in '08 with 45k miles on it. NADA book was 22k at the time.
  21. First time you do it takes about an hour to take the whole front bumper off to see what damage is underneath. Get a Bently's manual will show you all of the pieces to remove, and will have the sequence and torque specs to put it back together. Sunset is a sponsor, their link is at the top of this page, Pellican is another good source for new parts. There are several Porsche recyclers, I've bought stuff from the one in LA and the one in Oklahoma. Assuming you get the dealer to order a key, and get the car to them for programming (Do you have a friend with a trailer?) and the engine turns over. I'd suck the gas out and put a few gallons of fresh in and try to start it. I'd rather run it to warm it up before changing the coolant and oil. I also might put a half quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in the crankcase to help flush and junk to the filter. Once it's warm, change the oil and filter, drain and replace the coolant, and I'd flush the brakes before you drive it. I'm guessing the battery is dead, search here and it will tell you how to open the trunk to replace the battery. If you have access to someone with a military mailing address there, might make parts hunting eaiser. Good luck!
  22. Did you clean out the intake when you replaced the AOS? Seem to remember some saying the failed AOD let oil pool in the intake plenum, which would eventualy have to go somewhere.
  23. My water pump had a wobble ay 60k miles, let it chirp when cold at low speed. It wouls stop when the engine warmed up. I'd take the belt off and then grab the pulley for the water pump and try to wiggle it. If you get any movement replace it.
  24. The strap wrench I used was a cloth strap wrapped with a one inch square fitting, it came from harbor freight. On the 03 there is only one electrical plug that sends power to the pump and the gage uint. I can let you know what pins or wire colors to check. I'd suggest, in this order: 1. Remove the sender and just play with it, see if it feels smooth through it's range of motion. 2. Resistance check, easier with an analog ohm meter, measure resisteance across the sender as you move it, looking for a smooth somewhat linear arc. 3. Power it up removed and move the arm. Very dangerous. When you remove it do so in an open garage or well ventilated area, and have one or more fire extinguisheds handy. As an after thought, it sounds like the gage is working, I'd just order one and replace it. Replacing it is probobly a 2 hour ordeal assuming you can get the lock ring loose.
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