txhokie4life

I just got a '99 996. It only has 47K miles. Took it in because the clutch was making a noise. After a review the mechanic has advised replacing the clutch and a few bearings in the transmission. He also checked the RMS and IMS and they both looked fine with no sign of leaks. My question is should i follow the 'if it isn't broke don't fix it' approach or should i be proactive and replace them both since the transmission is out anyway?

The RMS is a $30 part tops.

The IMSR is ~$500-600 and a lot of peace of mind.

Here is a picture of a 03 S which failied at 30k miles

Mike

Got a 924S track car.

I'm getting hesitations at about 5200 RPM in third gear.

If I fight through the hesitations and get about 5400 RPM or so -- it smooths back out and pulls strong to redline.

Doesn't matter whether its a right or left hand turn exit.

The track I was on I don't know that I was able to get to 5200 in 4th gear and if I did -- I was busy trying to keep the car on the track

so didn't specifically notice :-)

We've got an issue of not being able to goto 3rd to 2nd (another item to work on but I think I know what that is),

so I haven't "checked" 2nd gear at 5200 rpm. I suspect same result.

Got a race coming up in a couple weeks -- would like to figure this one out before hand.

BTW, just replaced the battery -- I was getting power drop outs before that -- they appear to be gone

just left with some hesitations.

thanks for you help,

Mike

Well after searching more..... Its looking like a trans pull, then pull the clutch and flywheel. Are these IMS bearing "upgrades".... really upgrades? If so which ones are the best ones?

Yes -- and I strongly recommend the LN Engineering one. I use it on all my engines.

Mike

I second Loren and txholkie4lifr, Bad electrical connection. I'd start at the batterry although I've run my car with the ground strap completely off and don't recall the any thing going batty. Your click click is clasic low battery or bad ground (ground on battery is very susceptible to corrosion) but really shouldn't freak your dash out. Lorens theory might explain that better, it could also be down stream at a solenoid too.

Regards, PK

Just a follow-up.

I once forgot to tighten the power connector that comes from the front of the car to the top of the engine.

It worked fine most of the time, but every now and then it would not start -- click click click. You could jump it and get

it to run.

But since the connection back and forth to the battery was weak -- you would not get a good charge either way

so the battery would run down -- and then it couldn't arc enough to start the car -- etc. And yes it was ARCing --- yikes!

If you had any service work in/around the engine -- that is a possibility. Sits on the front middle (slightly driver side) top of the engine.

10mm if I remember correctly.

It's now on my ever growing check off list.

Mike

Battery most likely

Power connection loose at engine?

Possibly alternator short?

Mike

Hi

I was on the road today, 2001 Boxster S automatic (60XXXmiles) when all of a sudden I got a CEL, then every other warning light started flicking on. Then the AC and radio went on and off. The Instrument gauge was next to start flickering too and I noticed the trip odometer reset to O. RPM stayed stable (no spikes or rough idling). I was stopped at a red light so I decided (in all my brilliance) to shut the engine off and restart it to see what would happen. <--- BIg mistake. Car would not restart...*click click click* and instrumet panel would flutter to life then shut down like the battery is dead or something.

I had the car towed. Also did I mention I was stopped at a red light when my car will not restart. Needless to say when the light turned green I had plenty of ppl give me the finger on their way around me despite I had my hazards on immedietly.

What does everyone think happened? I had a new battery put in last year. I'm thinking...the alternator? maybe starter? Maybe even sparkplugs since I never changed them at the 60000 mile maintance.

Any and all help is appreciated.

Maurice,

Thanks for the quick response...

The shop states that they have to remove the top, then sow, and reinstall. Not sure how great of a job they'll do, which is why I'm considering getting brand new.

I am also looking at used tops from wrecked vehicles.

Vigor:

It's still not clear from your answer whether the shop will remove the entire top and frame assembly and then sew the new window in without stripping the canvas from the frame.

If they are not stripping the canvas from the frame, as long as they do a good job of sewing the new window in, they really can't mess up the re-installation of the top and frame assembly back onto your Boxster.

Also, there are a number of factors to consider depending on what model year your 986 is.

Regards, Maurice.

Ask them how they will protect your drain trays -- this is where they could mess things up and you would not know until you had problems

unless you knew where to look.

If when I pull another top -- I will try to figure out a mechanism to put a plastic insert or something in there to keep the foam drain trays from

being perforated.

mike

Mike

Hello all and thanks for any help you can give me. 986, MY 2002, 62K, had for about a year, tiptronic that recently has developed a gigantic clunk from the rear when starting out hard. If given gas slowly, this doesn't happen. I have looked for something obvious underneath that might be loose, but nothing jumps out at me. A complicating factor is that the chassis suspension plate (as named in Bentley) has been severely damaged and is missing from its rear attachment forward. I noticed that this summer when I changed the oil but frankly I didn't notice how FAR forward it attaches till tonight when I paid more attention to the diagram. It seems like the noise should have shown up before this if the plate was related.

Regarding the plate, what is the part number and does anyone know where I could find one parted out?

Could the clunk be a mount? How do I tell? A swaybar?

Could it be as simple as low transmission fluid (wishfully hoping). I was planning on changing the ATF, filter etc this winter anyway.

Thanks.

does it do it during hard braking?

could be a motor mount -- could be something else.

I have a 00 S 6 Speed -- clunked during acceleration, and up/down shifts.

Installed a new enthusiast motor mount from Pedro -- no more clunks.

Mike

Thanks Maurice for the input and headsup. Just what I needed to know.

It is very much appreciated,

Dan

Having done this a couple times,

I would make some sort of plastic or hard cardboard liner to lay on top of the drain tray so that

it cannot be perferated for pulling and installing the top

mike

topic says it all

Looking for Boxster shop in South Houston area

Mike

Mike, I thought you did all your work yourself.. Anything in particular you need checking out?

Joost

Well we do :-) -- but we have a customer in Houston and we are trying to save him the drive to Austin

if his issue is minor.

thanks,

Mike

topic says it all

Looking for Boxster shop in South Houston area

Mike

Mike -I think the actual value readings would be more informative and can be compared to the set values .For example -the 1999 set value at idle is 0 + or - 6 degrees .That changes as you increase engine rpm .I don't remember to what .The drive link is more of a continuity test .The durametric software is supposed to be able do a concurrent operation -drive link and actual value reading -which in my case would have been helpful. But there is a bug and will be fixed in a future release .

Dave

I'm thinking one of my tensioner hydraulic actuators maybe bad -- that was why I was trying to understand what exactly to expect when the drive link might expect to do.

Next time I get a chance I'll see if I can monitor the camshaft with the Duramatic, get her up in the rpm range -- and I should see them track -- if they don't then I know something is up.

I get a nice ticking sound from the drivers side -- hoping that this might be it -- not that its an easy fix -- but I like to get things resolved.

thanks,

mike

I have one. A supercharger anyway. Great fun. I mutter a hail Mary every time I take it out though and with good reason I think.

-First the ol' 2.5 can barely hold itself together as it is. It wasn't designed for a whopping 100 more hp. So logic says...

- If you live in a state like mine, every 2 years It's time for an exhaustive smog test. You can make it run clean but if they can figure out where the engine is and bother to have a look and see all that plumbing, you get to have it returned to stock by the state at your expense...or donate it for scrap for your favorite charity.

Regards, PK

Mike,

Did you go above 4-5 psi and if so did you have methanol/h20 injection?

Wasn't my car -- It was a customer's car -- don't know what they had it boosted to.

All the turbo equipment was removed -- when they drove it to our shop.

Here are some pictures.

Block was many mm out of ovality as well. Had to bore it out, replate with Nickel Silicon Carbide and hone back to factory spec.

After we get past the break in period of the rings -- we'll give it a dyno test.

Mike

I've run this test on my '01 S with a duramatic

I do it on a bank and I get a spike in RPM, then back to idle with maybe a slight change.

On the other bank it get essentially no effect, with the slight idle change.

which is correct?

I get a ticking sound coming from my drivers side. Wondering if it is my camshaft vario-cam actuator?

thanks,

Mike

My coolant has been "slowly" dissappearing. Early on I could go hundreds of miles before the light would flash at me, I'd fill it and move on. Now its been more frequent. I do not see any coolant on the garage floor or driveway. I have already replaced the cap with a newer version (had the original). I thought the cap fixed the problem, but its back.

I know it could be the tank, or some "Y" tube I've read about. I'm sure its been thoroughly discussed, but my exhaustive searches haven't found me what I needed.

Any info would be appreciated, or if you can provide a link to a previous thread.

Thanks in advance.

2000 Boxster 2.7L 60,000 miles. 5 speed.

Pull the trunk carpet around the coolant reservoir -- see if the pad underneath is wet.

I finally caught it drip leaking -- but it took a long time.

If not there -- things get worse like others have said.

Mike

Fellow enthusiasts, I am curious to know why more 986 owners have not turned to turbo charging their cars. I know there is a lot of interest in modifying and getting more horse power. The number one complaint of the 986 and some of the 987 has been that it's underpowered. Is it that you are afraid of the consequences or is it the high price associated with the kits that are available today? I would be interested to know would you consider Turbo charging your car, if the price would be in $ 6500 range and getting results such as 350 hp at the wheel , running a save 5 psi boost? Please let me know, I appreciate your time.

Regards

Harry R Chamness

We just finished a rebuild of a customer who had a turbo in his 2.5L Boxster

over boosted it and broke the ring landings on the pistons.

Bore of engine wasn't even close to being in spec -- but no idea if that had anything to do with the turbo

charging -- although I expect it did.

I highly recommend an intercooler.

Mike

As I was checking the IMS bearing, the IMS shifted slightly. I didn't tighten the set screws very tight, as instructed, but apparently I didn't tighten them enough. Anyways, now that the end of the IMS is slightly crooked, I'm afraid that the engine could have jumped time. My car is a 2002 with the 5-chain setup. What is the proper procedure for checking the timing? I will check that the marks that I made line up, but I want to double-check before I fire it up.

Quick and dirty: NMH (no manual handy)

pull the little green plugs on the cylinder heads. stab them with a screw driver and pry them out. You only need to do the one opposite each oil scavenge pump.

At TDC, one bank should be in line and you'll notice one side will be slightly inside the line on the cylinder head, while

the other side is the opposite, and you go one way through the crankshaft, the other side should be lined up and the positions

inside/outside will have swapped. One more time around and the original bank should be back where it started.

I don't remember off the top of my head which bank should be the TDC bank. You could check the firing order,

and then at TDC check the location of the piston by pulling the plug and putting a dowel rod in there.

If you are not perfectly north/south on both sides at TDC, then something has shifted.

You'll need to have 2 green plugs (about $5/per from sunset) to plug the cam openings back up

as they are one and done.

Mike

If PB Blaster or someother penatrant isn't doing it, cut them off and replace with new. When I do jobs like that if any bolts nuts whatever look suspect I drop them in a labeled baggie and replace them. It's better to make one trip to Tractor Supply or the auto parts place and get all the new stuff at once.

Cutting with a dremel would take a while. If there is room an angle grinder, and if the end of the bolt is looking right at you I've also drilled the bolt straight through the nut and removed it that way. You might also try a nut splitter which clamps the nut from the side and literaly splits the nut off the bolt.

You can drop the assembly from the headers back

Then you can decide whether you want to split the exhaust

Otherwise you can drill out the bolts, which is made easier with the whole assembly out.

If u r in there strongly consider one of the IMS upgrades

Mike

If PB Blaster or someother penatrant isn't doing it, cut them off and replace with new. When I do jobs like that if any bolts nuts whatever look suspect I drop them in a labeled baggie and replace them. It's better to make one trip to Tractor Supply or the auto parts place and get all the new stuff at once.

Cutting with a dremel would take a while. If there is room an angle grinder, and if the end of the bolt is looking right at you I've also drilled the bolt straight through the nut and removed it that way. You might also try a nut splitter which clamps the nut from the side and literaly splits the nut off the bolt.

You can drop the assembly from the headers back

Then you can decide whether you want to split the exhaust

Otherwise you can drill out the bolts

If u r in there strongly consider one of the IMS upgrades

Mike

What JPA said......

You could go from terrible to horrible.

At this stage you can probably get the engine fixed and rebuilt - if you end up hydro-locking -- you could end up with a cracked block

and be in for a complete new engine.

Note: only INDY's will rebuild your engine.

Don't count on the dealership understanding the problem.

Picked up a 996 a couple weeks ago because (I believe) the dealership ended up hydro-locking a customers car

and cracking the block.

Mike

Thanks Loren

The IMS bolt was thicker

And all the bolts on the engine are Torx

And not hex head

So we wanted to make sure it really was an 04 and not a remanufactured one for imsr purposes

Mike

Can anyone tell me what year this engine is from

M96/23AT65465402

It is in an 04 Boxster

Wondering if this is a replacement engine?

Thx

Mike

This link provides a lot of info:

http://www.pelicanpa...Engine_Swap.htm

Swapping out a 2.5 blown up motor (34,000 miles) from 99 boxster with 5 spd. Lots of questions. easiest swap would be another 2.5 and would it matter if auto or 5 speed?

The only issue I would see arising from using an automatic-based engine with a manual transmission would be if the crankshaft snouts are different on the flywheel side - manual transmission crankshafts usually have provisions for a pilot bearing. An automatic may have some different sort of setup to allow a torque converter to be installed. I don't know whether the cranks are different on Boxster motors offhand, but I'm sure someone with more knowledge will chime in.

Not an expert -- but partnering with one that is getting there

We just used the old manual flywheel on the AT transmission

There is a coolant hose that runs back from lower driver side to the AT, doesn't exist on the manual.

Just swap out the pipe housing there.

Lots of people are going to carrera 3.4 but items have to be changed around because rear engine becoming mid engine and also the exhaust has to be changed out, I believe? and are their other major costs involved. What is wrong with going to boxster 2000 to 2001 either 2.7 or S motor. Isn't that an easier swap. When the motors are swapped and they all have their harnesses intact can't they simply be put in the car with their corrisponding computer in the trunk.

I'd look at the Pelican Parts article for info on that. The exhaust may have to be modified as the 3.4 has to be mounted lower to fit in the Boxster's engine compartment.

Why go to a $600 dollar bearing verus a $100 bearing? Someone said that the U.K. has a bearing replacement. Doesn't porsche have a replacement by now. Keep the oil clean and don't run a sealed bearing! Seems thats the real issue!

Nobody knows exactly what causes these things to fail - the fact that it's a sealed bearing in the first place seems to be the problem. I'm sure letting the bearing get some fresh motor oil would help but the bearing isn't designed to be run on motor oil, it's designed to be run on the bearing grease that's supposed to be sealed inside it.

The $600 (in dual row) LN Engineering bearing uses ceramic balls which are several times more durable than metal ones. It also includes a new flange. The $100 or so kits just include what is for the most part the same bearing that's already in the car. It's up to you which one you want to go with, but I would probably go with the LN bearing. Why cheap out on something so important?

My take is you are going to spend 5-10K doing an engine swap -- why worry over $500.

Also for those of you that know, how do you like breaking a 325 lb torgue when you remove the driveshaft. I will try that tonight. Cheater pipe and probably will break my breaker bar. Will except any help but don't like making a mistake when I spend this kind of money. (by the way I spent $2500 on this car so I am not the one that got hurt.)

Ha, I had the same issue when doing my CV boots. The outer bolt on both axles was so seized, I stuck a big pipe on my breaker bar and it started to bend the bar. Looks like you need a really solid breaker bar like a Snap On or similar to get those things off.

Use an impact pin to loosen that nut and some loosening agent.

If you are not careful you could either shatter the nut -- or ruin the axle.

Also one more thing. I'am I the only one on this porsche forum that thinks the boxster is more fun to drive than a carrera! Thanks for your help.

I have yet to drive a 996 but I can't imagine it being much more fun ;)

Do you know the failure mode of the original 2.5? Depending on what went you can probably get it rebuilt.

Mike

Does anyone know how different (if at all) the heads from a 3.2 vane cell (04 model year) boxster engine (vane cell variocam, but no "plus" valve lift control) are from the 3.6 heads?. I have the blown 3.2 engine in the stand and am thinking of tearing down the head and doing some diagnostic work to figure out the flow of oil in these things to solve this problem, as I REALLY don't want to tear apart the head on my 3.8, esp with the engine in the car.

Even better, perhaps, does anyone have a 3.6 head laying around? It can be damaged, I just need to study the flow of oil through the head.

The more I think about this, I think it may be more likely that the drain is plugged up, not the supply side, but we'll see soon enough here.

I have a dead 3.6 head around -- PM or email me mike@lonestarrpm.com and I'll figure a way to get it to you.

Mike

I want you to get replies - but not something public that thieves could use. That is why I asked folks to respond via PM. Thanks for understanding.

I have interest in this too -- I rebuild the engines and would like to swap DMEs in my boxster test mule to test them.

Would be nice not to have to deal with the immobilizer.

So I sent the OP a PM to pass along what ever he finds.

thanks,

Mike

[

Three likely possibilities:

1. Failed oil cooler- test and replace

[]quote]

In this case you get oil in the coolant but not the other way around, undo the oil filter and look in there -- if you have a milkshake it is probably #2 or 3 below.