txhokie4life

OK, this cant be good. I was driving my '00 C2 and noticed that the temp guage started blinking but it was just a tad over normal maybe 210-220max. I opened the coolant to check the level, not only was it low but it wasnt GREEN.. more like a milky color. I talked to my PCar dealership but there are realy only two options with them and thats new or reman motor. I just bought the car and cant see spending 12k on a reman motor when i just paid 20k for the car.

What steps do i need to take towards getting it repaired?

Do you have coolant in your oil?

Oil can get in your coolant because it is at a higher pressure than the coolant. If you have it one way but not the other, it might isolate the source of the intermix. In this case maybe the oil cooler.

There are other choices -- unless it is the oil cooler -- none are cheap.

Mike

In regards to my pervious post regarding my 1999 996 C2 coupe 6 spd.( IMS "death rattle" ? ) I have though a lot about this and the noise is most likely a chain tensioner but I am going to go forward with my diagnostics and drain the oil, remove the filter and dissect it for evidence of debris. I will most likely pull the pan and up date it with the deeper pan, as I am planning on keeping the car for a long time. I bought this car with track days in mind as a replacement for the sport bikes I had for track days (getting to old for injuries) I want to do all the necessary upgrades on the drive train before I get into the suspension.

There seems to be quite a list for MY 99. This is what I have found.

RMS

IMS bearing

Chain tensioners

Oil pan

Replace , clutch and related parts

I would appreciate any additions to this list as well as the best source for parts / tools. I run modil 1 0- W – 40, changed every 3000 miles. Is there a better oil or weight I should run. On another note my brother has a 2005 Boxter S and recently had the transmission replaced, he had an issue with it popping out of 2^nd gear. I don't know what the issue was but I would like to know if I should have a concern with my transmission or diff option codes 220 locking dif. 40% / 224 ABD. I will change the fluid in the transaxle when it is out of the car so I should also like to know the best fluid to use.

Thanks for the info on my previous post and all the other info found on this forum,

As my father has told me years ago when I bought my 74 carrara "old 911s never die they just go faster" I would like to prove him right.

consider an accumsump and a deeper pan and/or an X51 baffle. These engines are known to starve the #6 bearing with obvious poor consequences.

I'd look are a new AOS, or at least check out the j-tube to make sure its not passing too much oil.

depending on mileage I would check the water pump.

I have also read that the power steering needs an additional cooler if you are tracking the car.

goto sunset porsche for parts, make whatever tools you can and pick up the rest from sunset..

sounds like your brother had a 2nd gear synchro problem. -- I have heard of a few. Not aware if there is anything preventative or repairable about that failure.

good luck on the track.

mike

If you become a contributing member -- in the member section there are manual downloads that will give you all these torque numbers you request.

mike

Hi Everyone

Just looking to get some input from you Porsche lovers that have owned one or more in the past.

Car I am considering is as follows:

1997 Porsche Boxster

58k miles

AC/heat works great .... for now!

Does NOT overheat

been in one minor accident in the past. didnt see any frame damage

Issues I am aware of after the inspection I did today:

1.) Water found its way behind the driver seat not allowing me to start it after turnied it off and looked at it today. I used a heat gun and dried the computer box area out for a little while and was able to started again and 3 times after .... so far so good I hope??

This is most likely either caused by clogged drain lines or torn convertible top catch buckets (considering the problems with the top).

If the electronics are bad -- it is about an $800 fix, that can only be done by the dealership for security purposes

2.) The engine has a few Oil leaks on it. The oil pan and valve cover is leaking for sure ...... looks to be a decent size leak where the tranny meets up to the motor but not 100% sure.....may be a hose?? It leaks enough for a little amount of oil to drip. Doesnt look like it would be too hard to replace those gaskets but I may be wrong??

Almost for certain the RMS -- $30 part -- 12 hours or so of labor

3.) The convert top has some missing and broken support brackets. I have never seen one complete so I am not sure what is missing exactly but I am still able to get the top up and down and drive it either way so.....

considering the trays probably have been damaged -- you'll want to remove the top and replace them -- $75/per. not sure what the brackets cost are.

The real question is why the brackets were broken.

4.)It will need 2 new tires and new brake pads.

5.) The clutch seemed to work normal but I dont have another one to compare so ...... maybe assume that will need replacing sooner than later.

If you are in doubt have it done when the RMS is done -- and consider an IMSR (search IMS retrofit) == each part about $600, and same labor as RMS above.

An indie can probably do both for $2000-$2500 -- if no flywheel issues.

6.) the motor doenst make any unusual noises but then again it is stuck deep in there pretty good.

You'll hear them if it did!

Questions:

1.) How much does a New or used under the driver seat computer cost? Can they be sent out to be rebuilt? Or once you dry them out and they work again..... are they good to go?

see above : you may need to pull the carpet to get the water out of there -- it is water resistant which works both ways.

if the computer is corroded its at least $800.

2.) Are oil leaks common or is this very unusual and maybe this particular Porsche was made on a friday? Everything seems pretty accessible from the bottom of the motor....are they pretty easy to work on?

3.) based on the pics below is the broken top parts going to cost major $ to fix? This was a very common issue from what I have read, anyone out there provide alternatives?? Or what do/did most do when this happened to them?

I really really like driving the car and am able to fix most of the issues myself or at my buddies shop.... i think.

I got the guy down too $4400 for it due too all the issues ...... I think i can get him down too $4000 considering it may need a new computer due to the water entry but not sure

Just wondering what your thoughts may be regarding my possible purchase and being a first time Porsche owner Newb.

Thank you for reading and any help if much appreciated??????

Budget another $5k and decide if $10K is good price for this vehicle.

Note any 97 is likely in need of $1-2k or more in repairs.

If you don't know of an indie shop or cannot do the work yourself -- repairs will cost you a fortune.

Mike

Here we go again. . .

Man, seems like of I've had one of every problem noted on this board. . .

'99 986 with 140K is having the "classic" problem of turning over beautifully when I turn the key, but the engine won't fire up. A search of this board revealed a surprising number of people with the same issue, but no clear consensus (unlike the cracked coolant reservoir or AOS issues) of what is usually the problem. Some folks seem to have issues with fuel filter/pump, some with clutch sensor, some aren't sure but they check a bunch of stuff and it just kinda goes away. . .Here's the story:

Had car in shop about 3 weeks ago for routine maintenance, et al. Still have an oil leak via main seal, but that's hopefully a different issue. Hopefully. Anyway, they changed out plugs, put in new fuel filter. Now car occasionally won't start, as above. I think battery is OK, all electric like radio, top, etc works fine. By necessity I've had to let the car sit overnight or for several hours, and when I come back it starts right up, no trouble. One person on this board just turned his key and let the car just turn over for a minute, and the issue fixed itself. I tried for about 20 secs, but didn't have the guts to just let it spin for a minute. Also tried pumping the throttle several times, then trying to turn it on like another person did. No dice. I was able to start the car the ol' fashioned way: get a buddy to push me started, pop the clutch, and voila, started right up. While I was fiddling around trying this and that I opened the engine compartment: no gas smell. No power trouble, once I get started all cylinders seem to be firing nicely. No CEL. I haven't plugged my OBD decoder in yet, but will tomorrow.

Whattaya think?

B

Getting it to push start makes me think the the fuel is fine.

Have you checked to make sure the starter is turning the flywheel? (probably is but cheap check)

just pull the engine cover behind the seats and see if the belt turns.

There are some fail safes in the design that won't let a car start, but will keep running once running.

Possibly check the crank position sensor. Although if that wasn't happy I would expect a CEL, but you never know.

clutch sensor is another good candidate but I think I have read where the CPS issues can be heat related.

mike

Only concern I would have is the strength of the pins that the roll bar are connected to.

I snapped one with a faulty torque wrench :-(

Would the spacer compromise the posts?

Otherwise it seems like a good idea if there is clearance for your top (you'll need to remove your windscreen)

mike

You need an adjustable "inside bearing/race puller", looks like this:

I think that is a Kukoo - 21-4

Don't be surprised if your KuKoo 21-4 breaks. Ours did. Than we welded to the IMS bearing race,

which then of course broke. We the had to cut the bearing assembly out by hand.

My mechanic partner is amazing. Took him almost 2 hours but no further problems.

Put in the new IMSR -- been running great for months.

Mike

I think you did everything right --

you just might have a ton of oil residue left over.

You might have to run it for 30 minutes or more.

You can check the you are not refilling the intake with oil by looking in the tube from AOS

to Intake. If you are then your root cause has not been found.

Every blue moon I puff out a good stream of smoke for 15 seconds or so.

I believe i have a vacuum leak as on occasion (not the same occasion :-(

I get a CEL for a secondary air injection. I have yet to track this down.

I do believe the two are related and that maybe somehow the vacuum issue tells the

AOS to dump some oil.

Now I could be just full of it -- who knows.

Mike

Check the timing and see if that bank is off.

Also check to see if there is any valve strike marks on the #3 piston via boroscope.

Metal in the filter?

could be a broken valve spring -- this would be relatively cheap, esp if the valve didn't get stuck far enough

open to hit anything -- but was still open enough to loose compression.

good luck with it.

Mike

MY 00 Boxster 2.7, manual

location : CA

Recently I tried to remove the oil pump housing, to fix a small oil leak....will in doing so, I broke off the rear facing flange that is attached to engine case. The flange broke off in the engine case just below the most peripheral facing O-ring. This has unfortunately happened to me twice, in two different motors. Does anybody have an idea how to remove this flange with the least amt of damage to the engine case? I've attached a few photos of the previous broken off flange that was easily removed by drilling a hole into flange, and removing with machine screw. Any help with this dilemma will be appreciated.

NVYMED

I've done at least 6 of these successfully.

Patience seems to be the key. I use a little leverage and continual twist it back and forth and work the leverage

around all sides of the oil pump without putting any pressure on any of the machined surfaces.

some are easier than others -- and I'm sure as soon as I type this I will have one break on me :-)

Mike

You may also want to consider replacing the swirlpots. If a piece of metal does get picked up by a scavenger pump it is sent through a swirlpot before it goes back to the oil pan. They are not expensive.

Does swirl pot mean camshaft oil pump?

Or the main oil pump?

thanks,

Mike

Make sure to check to insure the camshaft timings and maybe boroscope the cylinders to make sure

that there has been no damage to the valve train. It doesn't take much.

You don't want to do the IMSR, fire it up, and then cause some further damage.

But otherwise that sounds fantastic.

If you have a manual - consider replacing the clutch, and definitely do the RMS while you are in there.

You would have already paid 80-90% of the labor.

good luck,

Mike

:( :( :( :(

Do any of you guys know if Porsche recognizes this a "factory error" on these engines?

Regards,

Damborg

You can remove the IMS without the bolt -- it is not easy but it can be done.

Do everything as if you are going to do an IMSR, then

1) There is a special tool that can be had for about $90 that hooks onto the old style puller that LNE used

to distribute -- I think the old one as a K 22-1 and you want a K 21-2 or 21-4 from Kukuu.

2) If that doesn't work -- you can try to weld onto the existing bearing assembly and pull from there.

3) if that causes the assembly to disintegrate, you can still save yourself by cutting out the outer assembly

you will have to clean out all the debris, consider blocking any place the debris could fall into while you are doing the work.

(We have successfully done this BTW)

I would check in the oil filter to see if you have any metal shavings. If you don't than the bolt failure may not have

fallen into the engine, and/or it didn't cause any debris.

To be safe I would short cycle the oil after startup -- maybe run it for 20 minutes than dump the oil and check the filter.

You can use regular oil for this -- you are just trying to flush the system.

Now something could be in a spot that hasn't caused damage and you get unlucky and now you do this

and it lodges itself catastrophically. You're slightly worse off than if you disassemble now.

However I would think that your odds are low that this will occur.

Its your money, time and engine -- so you can make the call -- but this is certainly a possible option.

good luck,

Mike

you only need to worry bout the vacuum sound as it sucks money out of your wallet :-)

m

We have just purchased a 2000 Boxster S will 100,000 miles. The used car dealer changed the oil in it before we took posession of the car. I am sure that the place they took it to have the oil changed does not have much if any experience with this kind of car. The car seems to be fine when driving at low speeds around town, but when it gets up to highway speeds, there is a strong smell of burned oil and white smoke billows from the rear of the car and from around the rear passenger side wheel well and air vent. The digital oil level guage shows that the oil level is over full. Could this be causing the smell and smoke?

make sure it is blue smoke .. not white. white is usually coolant and is worse.

if not sure .. smell it .. if sweet could be coolant .. other wise u can smell oil burn.

also u can check your intake or the intake side of the aos tube for oil and or heavy oil residue.

if too much oil. you could unscrew oil filter and dump it out. a small amount of oil in there

I once tried to pump oil from fill hose .. but had no luck.

granted .. oil costs you $50. .. but you could dump it and refill.

mike

I was in reverse, backing out of a parking space in my '99 996 C4. A jerk came flying by, forcing me to jamb on the brake and disengage the clutch. But my foot (size 12) also caught the gas pedal and I heard the engine scream. I was looking backward so I had no indication of the max rpm. I was stopped in a few feet but noticed the engine had stopped. It restarted, and seems to run ok, but I was wondering if there was something like an overlimit switch that shut down the engine at a certain RPM? If there is, does anyone know the RPMs at which it kills the engine? I am wondering why the engine would stop otherwise. It was not the case of releasing the clutch. Thanks for any information.

There is a rev limiter.

Not sure why your engine stopped.

The only way I know to over rev the engine is via downshifting and causing the wheels to back rev the engine (like engine braking)

and with the lower gear ratio, it cause the engine to over rev. I could be wrong though.

You could check with a Duramatic to see if the engine indicated over ranging.

More than likely nothing really happened,

Mike

Counting their money?:offtopic:

Wow 20 Hours,

you can pull it -- and be down to the crank and start putting

it all back together long before 20 hours :-)

mike

Anyone know about the details of a "turbo" kit for this NA car?

Don't know about his setup but

there is a guy in Austin I know that has aftermarket turbo kits.

www.turbowerx.com

Mike

If I had metal particles like waynes I would be very concerned indeed! The metal found in my filter was very small I liken it to very fine ground pepper or gold flakes you see in beach sand. I read in the Excelence article that it was not uncommon to find metal the size of fine ground pepper. I will probably order a magnetic plug and check out the filter on my next service. Since the vehicle was only serviced by the dealer I'm sure they stuck to the factory service interval of 12k miles. I will change my own at 3k with Castrol Syntec. Again my filter didn't look anything like Wayne's. Wish me luck!

It's pretty easy to drop the sump and look further (http://www.pelicanpa...deep_sump.htm). I would do that if you're concerned...

-Wayne

When you change the oil -- get an analysis done -- the type of metal in there might help you diagnose the source.

mike

Hi All,

Looking for some help/ideas. I traded in a 2002 996 3.6 Targa to a friend who is a dealer (he sold me the car originally). This was about 3 weeks ago. Last Friday the engine blew. Took it to the indie (very good shop) who had just completed the 60K major service about a month ago. Cylinder sleeve cracked. Goodbye engine. Got a quote for a replacement- $18,500!!! It seems Stuggart wants more for this engine than a 997 3.8S.

Is Autofarm an option? Anyone have any other ideas?

Thx!!!

Sorry to hear about your engine woes.

I sent you a PM -- I'm and LN Engineering dealer -- maybe I can help you out.

Mike

Outside to inside -- particles will be trapped on the outside -- usually in between the pleats.

mike

I would be concerned about that amount of debris in the filter, especially as the bits are ferrous. First step would be to pull the sump and have a look. While the block and heads are alloy, there are several possible sources (rods, cams, crank, oil pump, and the IMS) for ferrous metal.

+1 Worry!

++ $WORRY

-> SEE_MECHANIC_NOW

== $_NOW || $$_:LATER

Might be a good time to do an IMSR, RMS and Clutch -- if the clutch has not been done -- you're pretty close to due and you will get a peak at the bearings and

see if they are the contributors.

If there was any issue with the valves -- you would think that you would notice it with poorer performance or even some engine codes.

Some codes will show up w/o a CEL.

$GOOD_LUCK

mike

Now that i know that your talking about the IMS and not the main bearing -- which can get damaged with intermix (or cause it!)

I think the mechanic might be scamming you.

We just did a RMS/IMSR on an automatic for <$1500 -- the water pump is ~300-350 tops.

I would have the car flat bedded to a local INDY w/o replacing the transmission and

go from there.

Mike

sorry to hear ur troubles. sadly u r not alone

10 hours to pull and replace is not that far off .. esp if it is a tiptronic

however 50 hours to rebuild is about 2x to much.

u do not need to replace the tranny to get ur engine fixed.

why do that .. ur next mechanic would have to pull it again.

$2500 plus no labor to this point is not that bad of a cash offer.

tops might be 3500 depending on condition and mileage

realistically a 97 is worth less thna 10k .. mileage and condition dependant.

now how they can tell ir main bearing is shot is another story.

if u have intermix with a water pump failure ... you'll likely want a complete rebuild .. in that the antifrreze can hurt your engine internals. that doesn't have to be as bad as it sounds .... but even so that is probably a start if 4-5 grand at an indy like ours... if there is any damage internally it can climb from there

good luck with it.

mike in austin

rebuilding these is a hobby for me .. so i'm not totally shooting from the hip.

good luck .. and please pm or post if u want more help/guidance.

mike

check fuel pump, check for spark, jumper fuel pump relay and check for fuel pressure flow if you

know where the fuel lines are.

check for any codes even with out a cel.

check the battery voltage when you do crank -- should be above 12V.

m