txhokie4life

I think when it starts fine -- the RPMs run to 1500 or so and then drop immediately back down.

When it struggles to start -- it doesn't have that quick RPM surge -- it just settles at or around the idle mark.

As soon as it starts once -- it will start everytime.

Swapped the fuel pump today -- think its better -- but might not have run it long enough to heat soak it on the way into work -- will try again this evening.

M

FP is 55 when running, drops to 30psi in 1 hour -- what is expected drop?

Tried disconnecting MAF -- run for 30 minutes, sit for 30 minutes.  Still slow to catch, then once it fires, it immediately fires next time.

Checked Dealership with VIN -- no software updates for this car needed.

Swapped starters, checked battery connections.

this is driving me batty,

Mike

A little more info.

FP doesn't droop during startup.

Battery voltage solid during startup

evap valve seems fine

MAF good.

TB good.

will check fuel connections, starter cable, purge valve test and cps (Again).

Mike

A few more things maybe worth checking:

 

- vacuum leak

- evap purge valve leak

- idle stabilizer needs cleaning

- fuel pressure when it's struggling to start

- fuel filter?

- fuel injector(s) leaking

I think he checked for vacuum leak with both smoke test and vacuum gauge -- I wasn't looking at the time.

I don't think there is an idle stabilizer on drive by wire

There is no fuel filter.

We had the FP gauge on -- I didn't specifically look when cranking.

I think we would have noticed a fuel injector leaking -- but I'll ask.

M

Looked at it this morning.

Tach bounces to 4-500 rpm when cranking.

fuel pressure at 60psi while starting and running, drops to 50psi after sitting a little bit.

swapped throttle body and cleaned MAF, replaced fuel pump relay.

Smoke test -- no apparent leaks

It's hard to duplicate the warm start (takes time) -- but there seems to be ever so slightly a hot start behavior -- maybe 2 or 3 cranks required, longer

than what I remember.  Maybe the slightest hesitation -- then it kicks over and runs great.

monitored ECU -- everything looks just fine -- and it runs great.

head scratcher.  left it with my mechanic to try a few other things (but we're running out of ideas).

Mike

2.7 Boxster:

Crank Position Sensor already replaced.

Cold start -- no problems at all

Hot start -- no problems at all

If car sits for 30-60 minutes or longer -- car turns over, but doesn't seem to fire.

I've noticed that I either have to feather the gas pedal while cranking, or sometimes just crank longer.

As soon as it starts once -- seems to start every time immediately there after.

I haven't checked fuel pressure yet.

Acts as if fuel pressure bleeds off?  I.e. if you immediately -- or say 5 minutes later try to start it -- no problem.

But wait 30-60 minutes or so -- hard start.

Cold start never seems to be a problem.

So what is the difference between a cold start and warm start?

Runs awesome once going.

Mike

I hate when folks put out questions -- resolve it -- and don't finish up by giving back to the community.  Guilty on this account.

I think I was able to resolve this by replacing the purge control valve under the drivers side intake.  (it's been 5 years -- so forgive me if I don't remember 100% correct).

There is a CEL code that popped up - the first time it had the noise -- a second car just the code.  I do not know if the noise was solely due

to replacing this purge valve or I solved that in intermediate steps and the CEL was solved by the purge valve.   I went the painful and expensive route

of doing everything around the gas tank first.  I don't remember the order of when the noise stopped.

There are 2 ways to do this purge valve  -- the cheater way and the right way :-)  -- I've done both.

The cheater way is to get the pipe from bottom of engine bay towards fuel tank, the purge valve and connection all the way to AOS tube (I think if memory serves me right)

and just bypass the existing valve.

The proper way of course is to actually reach underneath the intake and replace the valve.  it's a blind, I think there is one M10 bolt that holds it down and a couple

push to release hose connections.  kind of a pain but very doable.

Mike

~105k and rocking it with the McClarens and then out shining them with drop top Parade laps!

The thermostat housing is adjacent and to the side and I think it is a mated surface with a small gasket.

I think a Tiptronic has an extra connection near there as well.

Mike

OK OK rookie mistake... C2 FUSE sorry everyone for being a DA

Thanks for all the ideas and advice. Now on to bleeding the clutch.

Saved me a lot of typing :-)

Glad it was something simple.

mike

Brey-Krause in mine. You can find them used.

+1

Installed in my S easily. I would add the pads too if it is driven on the streets.

Mike

If your car is running and driving -- you might check to see if there just needs to be reprogramming.

The stealership will probably charge you 1-1.5hrs of labor.

If they want to start replacing parts -- you can decide how import the alarm and key locks are to you.

Come to think of it -- that is exactly what is happening with my car :-)

Let me know if you go that route -- I haven't bothered --

Don't tell anyone -- but I never lock my Boxster --

rather they just open the door -- than do any harm :-)

Mike

what I might try is blowing compressed air into the spark plug and carefully opening up one cylinder at a time via the crank pulley.

Get yourself a leak down test fixture (you'll need it anyways to insure you did not bend any valves)

At least that way anything that does loosen blows out.

I'm wondering if there is anything that you can use to help dissolve the towel that won't make things worse (either by adhering the towel to the valves,

or washing out the cylinder or what not.

mike

Yes WP = Water Pump -- sorry I should have not used short hand.

I talked to my mech again -- and the idler pulley was indeed fine -- but the pump had considerable play in it.

30K miles? Ouch -- glad I caught it.

Mike

These can pop out if oil pressure is too high against the plug -- I've only seen this when the valve cover had too much sealant used when replacing.

This gummed up some of the oil galleys and forced more oil against the seals.

m

fingers crossed!!!

Just an FYI -- had not heard of issues with the WP in CTT's.

Replaced WP and Idler Pulley at 30K - 2008 CTT.

Was making an intermittent bearing whine.

WP had some play in it and idler pulley needed replacing.

Mike

Did they boroscope into the spark plug holes.

If that isn't turning over by hand -- might have a cracked cylinder wall.

If you had a hydrolock, the other possibility is a bent rod.

If this happened there is a good chance you can save the engine. It won't be easy to disassemble -- but if done carefully,

you might get away with just replacing the rod.

Of course you'll want to find the source of the hydrolock issue to begin with and replace all bearings as

antifreeze is caustic to softer metals.

thanks,

mike

Send the oil off for analysis that should help tell you what flakes are in your oil that you might not even be able to see.

Check to see if the particulates above are ferrous.

Mike

There is a difference between the TIP and manual as far as the coolant hose/connection near the thermostat.

A 97 you will need to make some modifications to the wiring harness because the purge valve and a couple

other small things are wired differently between the years.

car will run fine either way -- you just get an annoying CEL.

mike

I think it falls under -- what have you touched lately.

IMS means:

removed rear bumper, removed exhaust, removed tranny (and CV axles), removed the clutch assembly, performed the IMS (and probably RMS),

assembly was the reverse of removal. depending on how things were left for how long -- some of the motor mounts may have been stressed as well.

assuming nothing internal to the engine was affected -- you're probably looking at something related to the removal and re-assembly of the above.

Mike

I'm actually considering something similar for my 928.

Sounds awesome -- but it is way too loud for driving any distance.

will follow this thread.

Mike

Just bought an S turned 101k while on track.

I don't have maintenance history

But I can tell the water pump has been done.

I did a deep sump kit, end racing baffle & amsoil .

Put some cool carbon pads on and some Direzzas.

Mike

Could be a broken timing chain

Not sure if the '01 has a 5 or 3 chain system

But even the 3 chain has a essentially a dual chain . So one strand of the chain can break and the other holds time until

The broken side wrecks enough havoc to do things in.

Think if it as two bicycle chains side by side and fused together. One set of links breaks, but the other is still holding together.

We were able to spot one of these by sticking a boroscope into the whole of a pulled chain tensioner

After we locked things in place.

Mike

I'll make a guess

$5k-10K to replace the engine (depending on how you choose to do it) -- assuming you need to do it

$2500 with bad engine.

I can't believe the storage bill is $4300! I'm in the wrong business.

m