txhokie4life

On a Boxster my sister-in-law had it was the fuel purge valve(name?) under the drivers side air intake.

PITA to get too -- we just jumpered it with a complete assembly from another Boxster.

whistle went away.

Prior to that I changed everything in the EVAP system.

I'm sure there is an equivalent on a 996 -- just not sure where.

Mike

To give you an idea -- my partner had a customer with a 04 996 that would misfire at start-up but then run fine.

It was a cracked liner --- maybe 1" in length, but deep enough (or wide enough) to catch your finger nail.

The owner had the cylinder boroscoped and saw the coolant, but never saw the crack.

We didn't boroscope that one, but found the crack upon disassembly.

Customer chose to bore out to 3.8 using LN Engineerings Nickies.

Wasn't cheap.

Mike

You could have a crack in the cylinder liner that opens up when the chamber gets hot

and coolant enters the chamber and some gets burned off -- but when car sits, coolant leaks back into

chamber -- then down cylinder walls into the oil.

Do you have any misfires?

Any coolant in the cylinders or evidence on plugs?

If you do have this scenario -- you really don't want to be driving it as this is the start of the infamous d-chunk failure.

Mike

Yes, you can remove the tappets with the engine still in the car. Not trivial, but doable.

You say it doesn't change with RPM?

I would think if your tappets are ticking then they would increase in frequency,

I think I have one or more noisy tappets as well. Mine changes with rpms.

When my oil is fresh -- it usually goes away. I also tried Seafoam once and

it also quieted down the noise.

This is my daily driver and it has been doing it off and on for 20,000 miles.

I just have not been motivated enough to pull the valve covers off and search

for the noisy lifter.

M

I'm no expert -- however I'm in the process of rebuilding the top end of a 964 engine for my RSR clone.

Currently I have it installed in the car and should be firing it up soon.

Where exactly are you having the oil leak? Have a picture?

mike

There is also the option of an LN engineering bearing upgrade.

'05's are iffy here. I've heard (YMMV) some have IMS's that are larger than the case opening and cannot

be retrofitted. They only way to know is to split the tranny from the engine and look.

An IMS Guardian maybe a better option here.

M

Honestly there is no telling how long you have.

There are many possible failure mechanisms. Some are a bit benign (the leaking oil cooler or AOS)

to cracks in the heads or cylinder itself. Antifreeze is nasty on bearings and what not.

It can also fill your cylinders with fluid causing hydrolock.

Sort of a ticking time bomb -- you just don't know how long a fuse you have.

I doubt you'll be able to trade it in. I'm sure this is something that anyone knowledgeable about

996's should be looking for. A 996 with 180K miles isn't worth much. One with intermix issues is worth

practically nothing.

If you plan to move to a 997 -- I'd start looking yesterday.

Mike

Thanks very much. I will get it to the shop immediately.

But answer me this, if you would...

With the miles on the car it's truely just not worth that much. And the cost of a head replacement likely goes beyond what I'd be willing to put into a car worth (I'm guessing) $10k. (And that price assumes it's running!)

So the car's probably a write off. That being the case, it's probably time to just trade it in and move on. My question is what will happen if I just keep driving it? (it actually goes fine) Will it die suddenly leaving me stranded, or a slow death blowing smoke and just get worse and worse? If the latter, how much time would you estimate I have to find a 997?

Thanks,

Ross

Its quite possible when the first bearing went that the other end of the IMS was wearing in its housing. (wobbling around)

I "saved" an engine with a toasted IMS bearing, but we had to replace the entire IMS tube.

On yours you say 8 miles later it seized up (probably IMS tube.

Then something gave in the timing. Your 10mph might have broken or bent the valves

out of the way -- but now the timing is so far off, or the compression lost -- that it won't fire up or won't allow itself

to fire up.

I'd find a used 3.4 (just not a 99), toss in that IMS retrofit and drive it or sell it. Probably 7-8K depending on the engine you find

and the labor.

As is the car is probably worth 6-8K. Low 20's fixed.

Mike

Great Value -- but they are noisy.

I find they have a lot of road noise -- especially the rears.

Mike

This entire thing has "bad idea" written all over it. You have no idea if the engine jumped time, no idea if you have bent valves, no idea how much metal has been sent around the engine, and you want to stuff a new IMS bearing into a damaged IMS shaft?

As others here who are knowledgeable have stated, all of this is especially pointless if you haven't even borescoped each cylinder.

Points taken....However when last shut down this engine ran fine..... Based on that we are assuming that it has not lost timing and no interference damage has taken place. For the rest of your argument, if the engine is shot, it's shot. My friend who has a lifetime of destroying engines as a race car driver behind him, feels good about the engine, and is willing to throw a bearing at it. We'll rinse it out the best we can. As it is he's out 18 grand. There's a chance we can squeeze some more miles out of it for less than one. Plus we're having fun wrenching. I sure am learning a lot quickly.

If I ever lose my sanity and end up wanting one of these things, I'll know a lot more than I did a week ago.

You'll need the smaller head one to fit into the spark plug hole -- which I'm not sure HF has.

I don't remember the exact size

mike

I think your friend should come up with another $239 so you can head over to Harbor Freight and pick up a fiber optic camera to add to YOUR toolbox. This way you can post some photos for us to look at and you will earn some good will from those who are providing technical advice. After reading the description, I think I may go buy one.

...j

Description of Cen-Tech 67980

View inside cylinder heads, behind wallboard and many other hard-to-reach areas. Sharp 640 x 480 resolution camera with tempered glass lens records and plays back still images or video clips.

-Save images on internal flash memory or SD card (not included)

-USB cable lets you stream video directly to your laptop or personal computer

-Brilliant 3.5" color 320 x 240 display

-Narrow 8.5mm probe fits most spark plug holes

-38" watertight flex shaft with CMOS imager

-Bright white LED illumination

-Rechargeable lithium-ion battery

-includes: 120 volt adapter, USB cable, video-out cable, hook, mirror and magnet accessories, clip-on mirror

Have you boroscoped the cylinders?

you really want to know if the valves have been bent which would be an indication of having lost timing.

mike

My 01' C4 didn't start today. Doesn't even crank. Battery is good (12.6v). My experience points me towards a Starter Relay, but I really don't know. The fuses are all good. I wanted to check the relays in the rear shelf area, but theyre not labeled???

Now-Here's the curveball: Last night, I installed an Ipod patch cable. The cable plugs into the rear of my Becker CDR-220. In order to activate the Aux input, the FB? button must be held_to access the menu.

Did I accidentally trip an anti-theft device etc.?

I failed to mention a prior possibly related issue. About a month ago- the key fob remote lock/unlock/bonnet buttons all stopped working. The battery in the key is good and the red led works.

I need some help please..

Thanks

Your key and your immobilizer are not speaking to each other.

do you have a back up key?

Otherwise you might have to have it hauled to the dealership and get a new set of keys and have them programmed.

m

CPS failure doesn't always flag codes.

mike

You might check the timing before you commit to the IMS replacement by pulling the green plugs on back side of the cams and

see if they line up at TDC with the notch on the heads. Note you make two revolutions of the crank for one complete cam revolution.

This assumes that you can turn the crank and the ims tube will rotate -- but this could be risky.

Alternatively, pull the plugs and put a boroscope down each tube -- you should be able to see the impact of the valves with the pistons (it will look like

shiny half-moons on the pistons) -- if you see this -- something has jumped timing.

If not, you maybe in luck.

Mike

Might spin fine in hand,

But under load (with the belt tensioned), the bearing maybe dragging on the pulley bolt.

I had one that seemed fine - then seized and snapped the bolt clean off.

In hindsight -- I might have heard something prior to failure -- but it was not obvious enough to take notice at the time.

Mike

yes there are. I'm hoping my coolant expansion tank is just cracked. Levels look really low in the expansion. That happened on my Boxster. The car is at Autoscope in Dallas. The guy was hopeful that the expansion tank was just cracked and I possibly have a RMS leak and that the two are just mixing on the outside of the car to leave the orange color. Of course he laid down the worst case scenario of needing a new engine for $20K. Awesome when I still owe $20K on the car. F me. Let's hope we don't have to go there and if we do I'm putting in a turbo.

I'm hoping the coolant reservoir

I'd bet your coolant expansion tank is leaking right above the drivers side muffler. My can did the exact same thing. Get under the car and see if there are stains under the exhaust tip.

If you do end up having to do some engine internal work or option for replacement -- let me know.

Depending on year of the car, etc -- I might have an engine here -- or we can look to rebuild yours. Either way it would be far cheaper than the dealership.

I'm in Austin.

Mike

75mph on the interstate and the red LED on my temperature gauge starts blinking.

Before I can get to the next exit my check engine light (CEL) starts rapidly flashing.

I put it in neutral and coast off to the shoulder and the car shuts off and every light on the dash comes on.

I wait 30 minutes but the car will not turn over again, but it really wants to. It says "vrig-jig-jig-jig-jig-j-j-jig"

Please tell me what's wrong with my Boxcutter? Tell me what to do, I'll do it. I will jack this thing up and pull out whatever you want me to. I will buy parts, I will replace them- I will suck your **** before but I go to the Porsche dealer.

(Please don't tell me I have to replace the engine. I will hunt you down and kill you. haha, just kidding... well not really)

Maybe, maybe not.

Here is what I would check out:

In order of ease: Is there any oil in your coolant -- it will look a little milky -- chocolate milkshake -- maybe a little maybe a lot.

If not -- then check to see if your serperntine belt is good order.

You could have a pulley that went out preventing the belt from turning -- which would prevent you from starting by not allowing the crank to turn by the starter.

You could also have had a water pump go out. is there any leaks there -- or yellow crusty stuff around it?

beyond this -- check your oil filter -- you can remove it without loosing much oil.

open it up and see if there are any particulates.

beyond this -- things get a lot more complicated.

Mike

Check fuse E1.

Yes, try another key.

I had E1 go out on another car -- but since it was a complete IMMOB replacement (classic wet Boxster)

I don't know how it performed pre-IMMOB replacement.

we'll give that a try,

Mike

Update on the switch switch. Installed the new microswitch and left a gap between the bottom of the switch and the track on the circuit board and still have not cured the problem. Battery carrier next.

The trunk release works so can somebody tell me if the luggage compartment (trunk) is separate from the alarm/central locking circuits? If so then I can have a look at the signal reception rather than signal transmission side.

TIA

W

When the remote isn't working --- can you still start the car?

We rebuilt an M96 engine and the 996 was running great for two days -- then one morning it would not start and nor would the FOB remote work

replaced battery -- no joy,

Duramatic gave codes:

23,25, 60 and 42

mike

My partner rebuilt a 1999 996 M96 Engine.

During testing after car running for 2 days -- following morning the key fob would not work, nor would the car start.

Tried to replace battery -- no change.

Pulled the following codes on the Duramatic.

#23 w lead

#25 w lead

#60 central locking limit position

#42 wrong key or wrong transponder

He does not have a PIWIS.

We're trying to track down a second key (I believe it is a valet only)

Quite frustrating.

Any help appreciated.

thanks,

Mike

My first P is a 1999 996.

I bought it in Sep 2010 from Fremont Porsche for $24.5K, with 62.4K miles on the clock. I got the service history from the previous owner - which was on the button. The 60K 'major service', incl a new belt, a $3.6K job in California had been done at 57K miles.

I drive it most days to work, a 92 mile round trip, have clocked up 7K in 6 months: I'm hooked...will only drive Ps till I die (hopefully 25 years from now!)

I then discovered the IMS story, was seriously thinking about spending 4K to replace it with the LN replacement. Next I took it for a pre-race day inspection at Kahlers. The tech there told me the IMS fails around 30K miles: if you've gotten past that, forget it. He also said IMS failures give adequate warning, and in any case, a rebuild is only (!)$10K.

BTW...the oil (Mobil 1) is still clear, pale yellow. This is the first car I've owned where the oil isn't black....have to love those engineers!

My intent is to drive this baby into the ground, I'll post when it dies....

I have personally seen four IMS failures.

30k, 60K, 92k, 105k

two manuals and two tips. 2.5L, 2.7L, 3.2Lx2

I know of several others in/around Austin/Houston/Dallas.

I have also seen many other failure modes.

cracked cylinder liners, hydrolock (aos?), multiple spun bearings, d chunks, water pumps, broken timing chains, old fuel.

I'm sure Jake has even more anacdotal evidence to support the numerous engine failures, and relative random nature of mileage

and configurations.

Mike

I am purchasing a 1988 951. I wanted to know if a LSD is stock on this year and model. If not, can one be added either after market or part from another 944? If so, how? I elevated the rear of my new car and rotated the right tire forward. The left tire did nothing. Should I assume this rear is working properly or is it dis-repair and needs new clutches? Any other tests to run to confirm my condition?

Thanks to all in advance!

Ed

How about 968's? There is a 944 with a 968 running gear I am considering.

thanks,

Mike

Hi Guys!

New Member Here looking to see if some of you guys can help with a few questions from time to time.

I bought an 86 944 race car a couple years ago

I have been to a couple of track days trying to get use to the car. I have had 3 911's and a boxter

but found that they were not used enough and wanted a track car. The 944 was first a firehawk series prepared car, then ITS Scca car. Said to be set up by a Bosch Engineer. Has some log books but not a huge racing history. Buil t out of a car with very few miles on it in the 80's. It is a sun roof delete, manual steering, limited slip from the factory.

the rest of the work removed all not needed electrical parts, side windows and motors all interior stripped down to the metal. Safe fuel cell, full roll gage, fire system etc. etc.

But to my question a lot of changes were done to the engine and electronics. There is no balance cam and it has had a external oil cooler and pump , we found this out when installing a new timing belt.

My question is, it has a kill switch now sticking through the hood but I noticed the other day that I could turn the kill switch off and the engine keeps running. Looked online at 944 Spec for installation info but my car has a aftermarket CDI box and should I interrupt the fire to the box by the kille switch or kill the exciter wire to the alternator? any ideas?

Thanks,

Steve H

Not 100% perfect -- but we killed the lead from the CPS to the DME. Kills engine immediately, but the fuel pump still runs.

All the tech folks seem happy -- but I haven't run SCCA.

We never seemed to figure out how to kill the fuel pump too. with the single kill switch.

Mike

sorry I have been traveling -- does the tach bounce (like 1/4")

when you crank it.

if not -- then there is an issue with the crank position sensor to dme to tach.

On our race car -- we sometimes swap the two connectors (NOTE to self label the **** connector!!!)

anyways -- I can tell immediately because the tach doesn't move.

Mike

when you try to turn it over

1) does the starter turn?

(why was the battery wire fried?)

might be worth going over the various grounds in the system and cleaning them up

2) does the tachometer move (even if just a little)

if the crank position sensor is not working or is not picking up a signal, you will not get a spark.

The tach is will jump if you are getting a signal.

Note I'm not 100% sure if the tach is connected to the signal, or gets a pulse from the DME.

It is possible you are getting the sensor signal but your DME is bad.

3) is your fuel pump running? you should be able to feel it when the key is turned on.

There is a relay (which when pulled can be jumpered) that runs your fuel pump.

4) is your timing belt good.

if something happened to it and you are out of timing, you will not start the engine.

this should at least give you a good starting point.

Mike

Hi Mike-

Thank you so very much for your quick response. The weather will be nice today so I am going to go out and tinker....

I will check everything you just mentioned....I hope its not the DME, those things can get expensive. Is there a way to check the DME without sending it to the shop? The one closet to me is over an hour away and the towing alone could cost a fortune.....It seems this should be something I could do at home, just not a mechanic....I am just learning...This car was gotten last year, ran GREAT! Not sure what happened with the ground wire and why it was bad. When we replaced it, it was laying on the engine. I am wondering if the heat alone just melted the plastic casing and over time, it just melted through and arced out. We drove this car often last summer and fall......it was perfect when we put it in storage.

Thanks again Mike- I'll be back later to update what I find.....

Aurora-

I race a 924S which is a 924 with a 944 engine.

I'm knowledgeable but I am not an expert.

I do wonder about what could have caused your ground wire to fail and if it did any damage along the way.

Good luck -- and I'm happy to help.

Mike