function12

Someone on another board said a 1" boat plug works great to remove the tubes.

I had a a tube leak and I did have a small amount of oil on the garage floor. Plus it cause the coil pack to miss fire.

touch the lug nuts after normal driving. They should be warm not HOT! If they are hot my bet would be bearings.

I have use a plastic polish by hand on headlights before and it worked great. Hugh difference.

Make sure you wipe down any pre-oiled filter you install or you WILL have MAF problems in the very near future.

Just my 2 cents.

See if the horn works. That is a big amp draw and will tell you if the battery is healthy.

I would look here.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=6828

On the Porsche switch the far outside two pins our for lighting the switch when the head lights are on. So us will be using the three pins toward the center. Get a cheap Ohm meter and check the function of the orignal switch and compair it to the porsche. ie. check the red to gray wire pins, gray to gray, and red to the other gray. Do this with the switch in the on and off position.

You might even get someone aradio shack to help you do this.

Yes. I do think those would work. Also i think the footwell light switch would work too. Suncoast sells all those.

According to Suncoast yes but you will need different mounting hardware.

Yes you can do it. The problem will be it won't be easy. Most of the factory switches I have come across are momentary contact switches. Which mean you would have to hold the switch until you pass the LEO. What a pain. You can make a momentary switch work but you would have to add a latching relay to the wiring. That will kill the circuit until the switch is pressed again. Then the circuit would be hot again. A good custom stereo shop should be able to make the circuit up for you. You would just need to pick up the Porsche switch you want to use.

The other thing you could try is contact one of the people on ebay that sell the small V1 radar mute switches. Tell them you need an off/on switch and see if they will make you one. Then just hide that little switch somewhere. I have one stuck to the back of turn signal stalks.

Anyone have alink to the LED for the fog lights?

Awesome write up!!

Will one button open both gates now? If not then you would need make sure you wire one homelink button to one side of the switch and one homelink buttom to the other side of the switch.

I have a 40th edition and the rims are not as bright as chrome almost a stainless look. Pretty easy to keep clean. My understanding is they are shot blasted to get the finish that way.

It usualy happens to me with the new vapor pump nozzels. I try to leave a little bit of a gap and it will fill up no problem.

New Style

Old Style

So you just drive the screws into the gas and dead pedal?

Did mine today. I got a used Homelink Rolling code transmitter off ebay. Got my switch from Suncoast. Push one direction to control one door and push the other direction to control another door. I got the back light power from the intermitten wiper switch below. I believe the wires were brown and blue w/ red stripe. I got the power from the phone connector. That is also were I put the remote for right now.

SWEET!! :renntech:

There should be a phone adapter connection under the factory radio. Which will give you switched power and non-switched. You want switched. Do a search radar detector hardwire install. There are a lot of write ups on it.

You might be able to get someone to media blast the red paint off. The have soda blasters out there that should be able to take the red "soft" paint off.

I get 16-17 city

Best I have seen so far on the highway it 24-25.

3.6 with X51

Go here and post your question. These guys love a good fight.

http://www.radardetector.net/forums/how-beat-your-ticket/

All I am saying is that in my 20 plus years of rekeying locks and picking locks. WD-40 is the worst stuff you could ever put into a lock other than dirt or superglue. Over time it dries out the lock and attracts dirt. It the short term it works great but over the long term the lock WILL start to fail/stick because of the use of WD-40.

Just my 2 cents.

I would NOT use WD-40 in any lock. It will dry it out in the long run and it will also cause it to gum up. I would use a very lite lube LPS1.

Thanks. That is the route I will go. Just wanted to make sure no other zones are affected.

I got one of my dash rattles fixed last night. The horse shoe around the radio was the culprit. A few felt pads and it was gone. Now working on the passenger speaker area or air bag.

Thanks for the link to the center console.

Just thought about the led and that would not work because it is always flashing. So we would need to be able to tap into the signal going to the hazard lights.

I would love to go with option #2. I think you could easily put in a piezo buzzer in the battery area if you could just find the alarm signal wire to the hazzard lights or if you could tap into the dash led somewhere easy.

Buzzer Link.