X-UFO

996 top of dash LED plastic cover removal Does anyone have a good photo of the removed LED cover in the centre of the top of the dash right next to the windscreen? I'm worried as I try to pull this that it's going to break. It's pretty solidly fixed. It would be useful to know where is best to lever it. I want to remove it to get a wire down to the inside of the dash so that I can mount a small radar detecgor on the top of the dash next ot the LED cover.

WOW :) :) :) Excellent write up thanks for that. Looks a LOT better now it's done. I MUST do mine.

After a few weeks of my car sometimes locking and instantly unlocking I've deduced that closing the drivers door a couple of times puts it temorarily right and it then closes, stays closed and arms normally. From other posts I've read it's likely to be a microswitch in the drivers door. Does anyone have any other ideas what it might be? Also any photos of where the microswitch is located? Thanks in advance. 2001 996 C2

Did you buy the car privately? 'Handover' means if it was from a dealer then it should be ok to take it back to them to sort out if it was bought recently. PIWIS I assume is a kind of computer connected options changer. In the VW/AUDI world it's called VAGCOM. Usually an independent garage or dealer will plug a laptop into the car and change various options like 'autolock' etc etc. However, it is possible that those items you refer to that are not working are on a common fuse. Check the fuses initially.

Yes. it's important using win media player or Roxio to burn as an audio cd not a data cd. The 'audio' cd option puts it into .cda format autmatically. Also make sure you check 'finalize' the cd if you see that option.

You will need a package to convert and write the cd as an audio cd. Typically the files on a cd that will play on a normal cd player such as you have are in .cda (cd audio) format. A package such as Nero Burning Rom or any other 'cd making' package will automatically convert .wma or .wav or .mp3 to the correct format and at the same time write it to cd that a standard cd player will recognise. A standard cd player won't play a cd with .wav files on. Thanks. Will a standards CD player play .wma files? If so, that's the easy solution. Otherwise, I think a later version of Windows Media Player will do what you suggested. No a standard player won't play .wma files it'll only play .cda files http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windowsme...urn_how_to.aspx

You will need a package to convert and write the cd as an audio cd. Typically the files on a cd that will play on a normal cd player such as you have are in .cda (cd audio) format. A package such as Nero Burning Rom or any other 'cd making' package will automatically convert .wma or .wav or .mp3 to the correct format and at the same time write it to cd that a standard cd player will recognise. A standard cd player won't play a cd with .wav files on.

Thanks matey :D :D :D

Check the dryer. Run the Ac and pull the plastice cowl/battery covers off and see if you can hear the noise. Thanks to both for the replies. After taking it to a proper specialist he diagnosed it within minutes. It's a leak in the pipework going up the rear arch to the compressor. It seems the leak causes the vibration to travel through the pipes and the noise appears to be from the front of the car. Just goes to show that the first so called ripoff 'specialists' don't know what they are doing and wasted 4 hours not looking further than watching time clock up in labour per hour. Then after clocking some time up they gave it back and charged for telling me they didn't know what was wrong with it. I need to book it in and get it done. When this is sorted I'll post on here a new thread praising the new proper 'specialist' who knows porsche inside out. Credit where credit is due. Thanks to those who replied to this thread.

I have had the same thing with an Audi in the past. It is possible that your key has lost synchronization with your car and can be reset by doing the following: 1. Manually unlock your car using the key 2. Open the car door (note if your alarm goes off, put your key in the ignition to stop the alarm. 3. Press the unlock button on your remote and the remote will resynchronize with your car. Note: If you leave your car locked for more than 5 consecutive days, the car will deactive the remote receiver to reduce battery load and you will be forced to use the procedures listed above to reset it. IF THAT DOESN'T WORK THEN TRY: With the Audi, you had to use the lock button held down for about 30seconds maybe a bit longer up to a minute. If held within the range of the car it would work after that time and re-synchronise itself. OR Use the key in the ignition and turn ignition on. Switch off, remove key, then operate key within 6 seconds of removal. I hope one of those methods may be of use to you.

On my 1999 996 C2 they are uncovered, it is also a RHD model. Phew!!!! Thanks for that, thought there might've been something missing. Panic over :lol: Cheers :D

2001 996 C2 I've still got an ongoing problem with my aircon in another thread but can someone tell me in the meantime if the two aircon pipes under the car (under drivers side on a UK car) from front to back are exposed to the elements or should they have a cover over them? You can feel the two pipes on mine just beyond the sill, going from the front to the back of the car. Thanks

Edited post.

The noise starts as soon as the aircon button on the dash is pressed. Seems to be coming from behind the dash or on the other side of the bulkhead. The noise stops as soon as the aircon is switched off on the dash. Only thing changed so far is the expansion valve. Compressor clicks in and you can see the clutch on it operate but seems not noisy at all in engine bay. Howver, it does seem to be working all the time not kicking in and out. Would be interesting to know if others compressor kicks in and out on it's own or whether constantly engaged like mine.

As per the title: very frustrating aircon problem that a few specialists can't resolve Here's the story. 2001 996 3.4 C2 The aircon initially wasn't working when I drove the car 5 weeks ago. Garage said it would be fixed. Two days later regassed it and it worked fine. I picked it up a week later (4 weeks ago) and it was working but had a droning, bearing type noise mainly on tickover and up to 1,200rpm with the noise changing slighlty with engine revs. Since, I have noted that it is noisier when the weather is warmer outside. However the aircon always works well and is cold enough. The noise seems to be coming from the front of the car around the bulkhead area but listening to the metal pipes it can be heard more. It sounds worse inside the car than on the outside. Spoke to dealer who gave me a letter saying that he would pay for any problems with aircon for next three months in case it was leaking gas etc. So, next day, called a specialist aircon person who came out regassed the system (again), changed the expansion valve and gave the system a thorough checking over and put gye in. He reckoned the compressor was fine. The noise seemed to be better but not completely gone. Next day was a very hot day and the noise was worse than ever. A week later the specialist came out and checked the gas level, pressure etc etc and couldn't find any leaks and couldn't imagone what was wrong unless it was vibration in the pipes. He noted that the compressor seemed to be on all the time when the aircon was on and didn't seem to switch in and out. However, the pressure in the system went up and then down as it should (seemed regulated). Didn't seem to be any leaks but the fan wasn't working on one of the front rads/condensor. A week later I took it to an independant Porsche Ferrari specialist who spent 4 hours investigating and rang some aircon experts they use who basically said they hadn't heard anything like it before. So, 4 hours labour was charged and the fault is still there. The series resistor has been changed on one of the fans and it now works along with the other fan when the aircon is on. Still this fault is there and on a hot day it's really annoying. It has cost £200 initially for the expansion valve and regass. Then £200 for investigation that didn't deduce anything and another £250 for the series resistor change. Total so far £650 and the only difference is the fan now works. If anyone has had a similar experience I really would appreciate any pointers. Thanks in advance.

Loren, Thanks for the reply. After a good search, reading your reply and going out to the car and swapping relays, checking fuses and making sure it isn't working. Going dark now, next step is to check the voltages before the series resistor and compare with the other side, I'll do that tomorrow. Maybe the resistor needs replacing. Your reply really helped in guiding me and I much appreciate your reply - Cheers. :D Ian (in the rainy UK)

Hi, Just a quick question. When I have the aircon switched on only one fan in the front arch comes on (passenger side, RHD UK). Is that right or should both fans be on? Is the other radiator on the other side in the arch for the cooling system or part of the aircon and should also run the fan with the aircon? Thanks for any help. 2001 996 Carrera2