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I looked at those exact same mufflers last year - but the only way to hear them was through the JP website. Unable to find someone that had them fitted. They seem to sound like the Cargraphic Export mufflers - there are a couple sound files on Rennlist, when compared to the JP files. I thought they might have been the same products - just remarketed through Cargraphic. In the end, I determined they are louder than Fabspeed mufflers - and did not want to experience resonance issues that some people have experienced. So, I still have the stock mufflers. As for NASCAR - Like the sound, just don't get the attraction.

If you (and your neighbors) love the sound of NASCAR...................... To visit the JP Group (makers of Dansk mufflers) Porsche Sound Studio, go here: www.jpgroup.dk or here: www.jpgroup.dk/images/feed/soundstudio/Carrera_996_audio_compressed.htm You can listen to all their products.

The new Mobil 1 15W50 (non red cap version) belongs to the recently released "Mobil 1 Extended Performance" line: "Mobil 1 Extended Performance 15W-50 is also well suited for weekend racers who are interested in outstanding engine protection for racing engines and are looking for a higher viscosity oil." - this taken from the Mobil 1 website. The difference between Mobil 1 Extended Performance and regular Mobil 1 is: "Mobil 1 Extended Performance formulas are designed specifically for today's longer service intervals and are guaranteed to protect for up to 15,000 miles or one year." "Mobil 1 Extended Performance has a unique formulation with boosted level of protection and performance. These formulations with the Advanced SuperSyn System contain 50 percent more SuperSyn, 36 percent more anti-wear additives, and 37 percent more cleaning agents than the current Mobil 1." Since Porsche oil changes are officially rated as a yearly maintenance item - Extended Performance would seem the way to go........wonder if a 0W40 version will come out? A global non seasonal oil recommendation seems to be the only driver for this, and it could be at the expense of having best engine protection vs. globally "acceptable" engine protection. Without seeing torn down engines at Porsche after defined testing, we'll just never know.

Uwe, If your comment about 3.5 mPa.s specification by Porsche is correct, then it sheds a whole new light on Mobil 1 0W40.........with regard to being Porsche approved. The Mobil 1 website lists the 0W40 specification for ACEA/API shear at 3.6mPa.s. Follow this link and you can check: www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil_1_0W-40.asp I don't know how much of a factor shear resistance is for an engine/lubricating oil combination as deemed by the factory, but by any measure, 0W40 barely passes the standard set by Porsche. There may be other redeeming factors that 0W40 possesses, but the biggest one seems to be cold temperature performance/flow - and the ability for it to be regarded as a global oil for all climates. I'll stick with garaging our 40th during the winter months, and running Mobil 1 15W50 with its 4.43mPa.s specification. BTW - pour point for M1 15W50 is spec'd at minus 42 C, and for M1 0W40 it is minus 54 C. Methinks this 0W40 issue is more marketing than good sense for the engines/cars we share the passion for.

Stick with someone who has an excellent reputation for service & quality - RUF has that + lots of experience making hotter/hottest Porsches...............Flipside is you wait for the 997 Turbo - then trade up.

In all the articles about the 997 model line up - there has been no mention of the Targa in any that I have read. The 996 Targa's did not sell in any great quantity - so maybe that is an indication of the comments made to you. With Cayman S, Panamera, new GT3/RS and Turbo models on the way, the Targa is perhaps orphaned.

The bottom line is that regardless of the computer power the dealer has at their disposal, the technician's diligence and ability to correctly diagnose problems/situations is critical in getting these issues recognized and resolved BEFORE it is certified. Unfortunately, Triathlete has borne the brunt of this diagnostically challenged (or plain lazy) service outfit. As for driving the car too much, or not enough, only the curators of the Porsche museum would have a definitive answer on that.

Porsche states 0W40 Mobil 1 is factory fill...............there is an approved list of oils on this website in the TSB section - some of which have different viscosity ratings. There is no approved oil that is a 30 blend - so stay away from it. Some 911 drivers who live in warm/hot climates - or who track their cars as such, use Mobil 1 15W50. You won't feel any difference with 30 weight oils, you may hear some additional valve/lifter noises because of its lower viscosity when hot - but you may feel a lot of difference in how much money you have left if the engine fails due to incorrect oil.

You should also write a letter to Porsche North America - it may be a benefit to you should the need arise for other dealer opportunity visits.

Make sure you check the oil when at operating temp - 180F. Only then will you get an accurate reading from either the dipstick, or the instrument gauge. Add oil if necessary after checking at operating temp.

All is OK - take a look at your owners manual - 5 bar is normal over 3000 rpm.

Front and rear should be fine with no spacers at all. If you want to put spacers on the hubs to push the wheels out a little further, then the max thickness spacer on all wheel hubs fitted with with 52/65mm offset 18" wheels is 5mm (the assumption is that your Turbo front wheels are 8" wide, and the rears are 10" wide) Try them on the car without spacers - see if you like the look. If not, you only have 5mm to play with on each wheel. If you do get the 5mm spacers fitted, you will need the Porsche 5mm longer wheel bolts.

You may not need any - our 04 C2 has 18" wheels, offset for front is 50mm, for rear it is 65mm..........sounds like you are right there. The factory allowance for spacers with this set up is 5mm spacers max - you can buy these from your Porsche dealer.

1. Here is the blurb on the roof rack from Porsche US website - you should be pretty safe with regard to fit/attention to detail etc.: "The roof transport system for the 911 is designed for performance and practicality. The durable die-cast magnesium bars are contoured to follow the 911’s sleek roofline for reduced noise and wind resistance. They glide into position in seconds with rubber foot pads that improve holding and prevent scratches. For the practical side, add the available attachments that accommodate everything from bikes and skis to extra luggage." 2. If I recall correctly, ground clearance is approximately 4.3". Not sure how steep the approach/departure angle is in your parking garage, but it may warrant some further investigation to make sure the 911 won't scrape. Maybe you can approach it from an angle if you have enough side room? Snow tires will be a must if you drive in the white stuff often....... 3. There should be enough examples on the market to get you the color/condition/interior/options you want. The Porsche USA website has a pre owned section where you can look for certified models etc. It is very comprehensive. Take your time, look at many, drive many, buying a Porsche certified car may buy you some extra sleep at night knowing you'll have the extended warranty for peace of mind. RMS leaks are not a given for every 996, but it can present itself at 20/30/40k miles.........no real way to know until it happens. 4. Research.....................keep an open mind, and if something sounds too good to be true - you know the rest.............. Hope you find your perfect C4/C4S!

You've pretty much answered your own question.....one would have to believe that the factory made sure that air flow and filtration from the OEM air box and air filter would be more than what is actually required. DIN horespower measurements require these attachments fitted to the engine in order to certify the true hp rating of the engine. Porsche is known for delivering every engine that at the very least least conforms to the rated hp in the advertising/specifications.

A good exhaust shop would be able to help - you'll probably have to take the mufflers off, as they would need to set them on the mandrel to reshape the pipes. There may be a slim chance they can do them on the car.

Active brake differential is where the PSM system on the car detects slippage of the wheels under power or braking and modulates each individual wheel brake if necessary to render control and directional stability where the driver may not be able to react quickly enough - nothing to do with the differential that is distributing drive power from the gearbox to the wheels.

There are many opinions on the K&N style filter (oiled cotton) vs. the OEM paper element. Various papers have been written that the oiled cotton style allows a greater proportion of super fine grit to pass through the filter, as opposed to the OEM paper elements which seem to do a better job dealing with this fine grit. As for total airflow - one would have to assume that the factory did the job right with filter sizing and paper specification - which would ensure air flow that is more than adequate. Oiled cotton filters do seem to allow a little more induction noise on acceleration - and people in general seem to like that. Oiled cotton is also able to impact the MAF sensor operation - and can cause CEL events if the cotton is over-oiled.

Just about every car on the planet has a differential of some sort, but a few have a limited slip. I don't think Porsche sells the 997 with PSM and LSD - but I could be wrong, since our 04 40th 911 has both. When you take a left turn in a non LSD car, the left driving wheel can start to spin as you power out of the turn (vehicle weight starts to transfer to the right side of the car, making the process of spinning the l/h wheel easier). The driving wheel with the least traction will slip/spin as you apply a lot of power. The driving wheel with the most traction (r/h side) won't get any power applied at all, as a standard differential wants to direct all the power down the path of least resistance/traction - in this case, the left wheel. The opposite takes place when you turn right, under a lot of power. A limited slip diff does the opposite - it locks the rear wheels when slip of one is detected - and that means when you apply power exiting a turn, the differential will limit the amount of slip that any driving wheel could experience - locking both together past a certain point. This enables you to apply full power out of a turn. A big help when trying to move very quickly. The only reason a differential has to be there in the first place is to enable the inside wheel to turn slower than the outside wheel when making a turn. Without this feature, the car would tend to "hop" through a corner - much like the racing cars of old that ran 'Detroit Lockers' - these were either locked, or not - with a sudden transition between the two modes.

Exhaust design can have a big impact on system noises - like what you describe with the Fabspeed headers. Without listening to another owner with the same set up, you may be given a lot of advice that might not reference your exact predicament. The engines on the 996 do whine somewhat anyway, and maybe you should take a stock car for a test drive just to get a new reference point in terms of exhaust noises. If you want total piece of mind in having the car sound completely normal, then maybe the stock headers/mufflers are the way to go.

Porsche's Risky Ride with VW BusinessWeek News Sports-car maker Porsche is known as one of Germany's most successful companies -- and one of the stingiest with information. It reports earnings only every six months, and CEO Wendelin Wiedeking is an outspoken opponent of efforts to compel CEOs to disclose how much money they make. Porsche's publicly traded preferred shares don't confer control over the company because the voting shares belong exclusively to members of the Porsche and Piech families. Vote-less shareholders have been willing to live with Porsche's Old World approach to investor relations because the carmaker earns good money -- $153 million on sales of $3.7 billion in the fiscal half-year ended Jan. 31. That was a 6.3% profit increase compared to the year-earlier period at a time when mass-market carmakers such as General Motors (GM) or DaimlerChrysler (DCX) are struggling [see BW, 8/15/05, "DaimlerChrysler: Divorce, German Style?"]. But Stuttgart-based Porsche's plans to acquire 20% of mass-market carmaker Volkswagen, announced on Sept. 25, might leave some shareholders wondering whether management has blown a gasket. JUNKETS AND HOOKERS - For Volkswagen, the benefits are clear -- protection against a hostile takeover. It may also get a lift from Porsche's image and well-regarded management. VW needs the help. With profits of $484 million on sales of $55.4 billion in the first half of calendar 2005, VW's profit margin is less than 1%. In addition, VW's image has been tarnished by accusations, currently under investigation by German prosecutors, that some high-ranking managers and a labor representative took junkets at company expense featuring high-price prostitutes [see BW, 7/25/05, "Volkswagen Brakes For Epic Change"]. For Porsche, though, the risks seem more obvious than the potential gains. Yes, the deal guarantees that Porsche can continue to draw on Volkswagen's resources as they jointly develop new technology, such as gasoline-electric hybrid technology. For example, the acquisition provides security for the joint venture that produces components for Volkswagen's Touareg and Porsche's Cayenne SUVs. But is that enough to justify depleting Porsche's cash pile to the tune of some $3.6 billion? "Until now, Porsche has made all the right decisions," says Martin Sachsenmaier, a fund manager at Frankfurt Trust in Frankfurt, which owns shares in Porsche and VW [and plans to hold them for now]. "You have to wonder what's behind this." FAMILY TIES. The concern is that Porsche is driven more by historic sentiment than financial logic. Both it and Wolfsburg-based Volkswagen trace their ancestry to Ferdinand Porsche, whose engineering studio designed the first VW "people's car." The first Porsche roadsters, credited to Ferdinand's son Ferry Porsche, had an air-cooled motor that was effectively a souped-up Volkswagen engine. In recent years the Porsche family tie to Volkswagen has been upheld by Ferdinand Piech, Ferdinand Porsche's grandson, who's chairman of VW's supervisory board. Family tradition, though, is hardly an argument to spend $3.6 billion. Porsche's investment makes sense only if the company, which will likely get a seat on VW's supervisory board, can contribute to Volkswagen's turnaround and boost the value of the shares. But 20% isn't enough for Porsche to exercise decisive control over Volkswagen. "IN OUR OWN INTERESTS." Should Volkswagen's profits continue to slide, Porsche could see its stake lose value fast. [in fact, shares of both companies fell the day after the Sunday announcement.] Added to that is the risk that Porsche's image could suffer from closer association to Volkswagen. "VW faces a lot of struggles at top, and it will take three years to bring it back to a reasonable profit," says a person who works closely with the company. Finally, there's a risk that Porsche will have trouble buying enough shares to equal 20%. So far it has less than 5%. A Porsche spokesman declined to say how it plans to acquire the rest. In a statement announcing the planned acquisition, Porsche said it acted to head off a hostile bid for VW in 2007, when the Wolfsburg company will lose the state takeover protection afforded by the so-called Volkswagen Law. "We want to secure the independence of Volkswagen in our own interests," Porsche CEO Wiedeking said in the statement. The concern is that when Wiedeking speaks of "our interests," he's not including shareholders. Copyright 2005 BusinessWeek

I feel this needs clarification, purely from a technical perspective. We all know that 1st gear is very short, and 6th is very long. Each interval (gear) between enables the engine speed (rpm) to keep within it's rev limits (idle to red line) all the while increasing road speed - while you are moving from 1st to 6th. Moving the car from a standing start is easiest in 1st, where there is a great reduction in engine speed through the gearbox to lowest road speed - using torque to get the car off the mark. This means that the force feedback from the road to the engine is greatly reduced - making it very easy to move the car. This same effect makes life easy for the clutch - as it can transfer the engine power since the 1st gear reduction is effectively the easiest path to start movement of the car. When you do a maximum throttle launch of the car from 1st gear, the clutch slips initially as part of the process until the pressure plate is fully clamped. On the highway, the car in a higher gear is more difficult to move rapidly. It in effect becomes the immovable object, while the engine is commanded through the throttle to continue to become the unstoppable object in terms of force applied to the clutch - which is the slave in between. As the engine produces its maximum torque - which is fairly flat from 3k rpm through 5k rpm, we have the opportunity to see how the clutch deals with the force in very clear perspective. If when applying throttle firmly the revs rise, without an increase in road speed in a manual transmission car, the clutch is slipping. Noticing this effect in 1st gear is extremely difficult when the clutch is first starting to wear because if you accelerate hard, there will be slippage for a brief time, but the rev rise so quickly at low speed with little rolling resistance from the vehicle or frontal air resistance that it takes a well trained technician to feel the transition from grip to slip, back to grip. I do agree that if the clutch is very badly worn/flywheel glazed, you will get slippage in all gears. In this case, it appears that rountreed's clutch is just starting to show signs of slippage

Sounds like textbook clutch slippage - the standard test is what exactly you describe: high gear, ideally going up a hill, open the throttle and feel slippage through increased revs without matching increase in speed. It is the beginning of the end for the clutch - but it will be a while yet. Hard to say how many miles to go before you start getting the same effect in 1st & 2nd gears - at that point, it will deteriorate rapidly. You should be OK for the vacation - take it easy, baby the car. For complete peace of mind, maybe you could get the clutch replaced before you go?