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geza

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Everything posted by geza

  1. Clear Third Brake Light for P96 Cars For every P96 and GT3. Available in smoked or silver version. www.carnewal.com
  2. Clear/smoked Third Brake Lights for P86 Cars For every P86 without Aerokit. Available in smoked or silver version. www.carnewal.com
  3. The cam lobes actuate rocker arms or work directly on the surface (top side) of the tappet. This means that tappets stick after the valve is opened - and if open (by being stuck) far and long enough, the piston crown will hit the valve head and force it back on the valve seat. Misfiring and backfiring are both possible symptoms. A compression test on each cylinder may help isolate any tappet issues - but you should also get the opinions of very seasoned Porsche technicians on your specific model car.
  4. There may be a balancing weight missing (thrown) from the front wheel/s........get the dealer to balance both front wheels to see if that is all it is. There should be zero shimmy or vibration at that speed..............
  5. You can fish for the engine cover release cable behind the drivers side (LH) tail light assembly (get a thin hook under the bottom rear lens where it blends with the top of the rear facia - be careful to coat it with some tape to prevent scratches). Once you are in, you can connect a charger/jumper to the positive post near the top of the intake manifold, and earth the other at the air filter box mount bolt..............
  6. The fan runs depending on the engine temperature........last weekend, very hot in Chicago, the fan was on when I stopped the car. The fan then switched off (car in garage, engine off) and then switched back on and ran for about 10 minutes before it finally stopped...........
  7. Call TPC direct - trust no one...................
  8. look at this site, and call them for their opinions: www.wheelenhancement.com Then, get the counter view from these folks - and decide which way you'd like to go: www.classiccomponents.com These people do stuff for bikes as well - and Harley riders are usually just as critical of their bike aesthetics as any Porsche owner is about his/her car..........
  9. I seem to recall an option for the 996 models - lower seat height by smaller seat frame spacers (between seat rails and floor) I think they were 10mm lower than the standard seat mounts - may not be anough, but would be something......call your local Porsche dealer and ask the service manager if such an option exists........
  10. My experience on a 2004 40th anniversary 911 is as follows: Changed the factory Mobil 1 0W40 at 1000 miles. Have had 2 changes since then with Mobil 1 15W50. Oil consumption seemed a little high until we just hit the 3000 mile mark - then it (oil consumption) basically stopped - or has settled down dramatically. Followed the break in procedure faithfully as well. Our car has the X51 power kit - and in the Porsche TSB, it stated that the engine does not develop full horsepower until it reaches approximately 6500 miles. This suggests these engines - X51 power kit or not - are fairly tight for some time, which means long lasting if they are looked after. You probably won't get a true indication of oil consumption until you get to around 10,000 miles. At that point, one quart per 1000 miles is within factory guidelines anyway....... As long as you are not getting blue smoke - all should be fine.
  11. Anyone have any opinion as to the value of insulating (protecting) the surrounding water lines from the underside of a 2004 996 - to protect them from the radiant heat from the exhaust headers? I'd be interested to learn if anyone in the forum has used thermo shield wrap for the exhaust manifolds to contain some of the heat.........?
  12. For those interested in who is selling the latest high quality/detergent spec (not highest octane) gasolines, check the following site: www.toptiergas.com
  13. Try www.ttstuff.com - look for euro license plates, maybe they sell frame individually
  14. It is not so much as a 100% theoretical fix that thicker oil equals zero RMS leakage, but I think that ultra low viscosity oil could be a factor. I understand there have been 996 and Boxster case machining issues that did result in a slightly out of round condition where the RMS sits, resulting in an elliptical shape of the seal vs. the perfectly (almost) round crankshaft seal journal. What I can see is that the case suppliers use sophsticated machine tools and statistical process control to make sure that cases are bored and finish machined to exacting tolerances. The logic that the case tolerances are still flawed seems a bit of a stretch to me, and the fact that 0W40 engine oil starts out with a viscosity that is so low may be part of the problem. I also acknowledge that seal designs have improved dramatically over the years, and I have to assume that the RMS seals used by Porsche would/should be as technically advanced as the 0W40 oils they approve. I just think there is more to the RMS story other than dimensions and replacements that seem to continue to leak. People are still having the problem after all these years of reports - and from what I understand by reading the PCA website, we are, at this point, not sure if the 997/997S is immune.
  15. Folks, after reading a lot on the new Porsche 0W40 engine oil approvals, which appears to be a move to have a global engine oil, and avoid the need for a seasonal recommendation, I am thinking there may be a link to RMS leakage and ultra low engine oil viscosity. I use Mobil 1 15W50, and have done so since reaching the 1,000 mile mark on a 40th Ann 911. I see in the owners handbook that 15W50 is acceptable when ambient temp. is 50F or higher. I live in Chicago and store the car in the cold months, so running below 50F is not an issue for me. My experience many years ago as a mechanic, when low viscosity oils were becoming more prevalent, was that seal technology had to change, particularly for the crankshafts and front/rear timing covers due to the fact that the thinner oils had a marked tendency to weep past standard seals. Labyrinth seals for the rear crankshaft journals were commonplace to combat this particular situation, and had to be very carefully installed etc. I am wondering if any others out there have an opinion on this, and particularly if users of higher viscosity engine oils have experienced less/no leakage past the RMS vs. the owners who have strictly used 0W40. Maybe those of you who have workshops would have more evidence - either way.
  16. You would get degradation of the rubber due to a reaction with the antifreeze. Correct air pressure is all you need, along with wheel alignment to specs.
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