geza

There are many opinions on the K&N style filter (oiled cotton) vs. the OEM paper element. Various papers have been written that the oiled cotton style allows a greater proportion of super fine grit to pass through the filter, as opposed to the OEM paper elements which seem to do a better job dealing with this fine grit. As for total airflow - one would have to assume that the factory did the job right with filter sizing and paper specification - which would ensure air flow that is more than adequate. Oiled cotton filters do seem to allow a little more induction noise on acceleration - and people in general seem to like that.

Oiled cotton is also able to impact the MAF sensor operation - and can cause CEL events if the cotton is over-oiled.

As for the mufflers - you may want to leave the headers installed, and opt for the Porsche Sports exhaust, which offers some noise modulation if the control system is installed. If you don't want to go to that trouble and expense, then the stock pressed shell mufflers could be the answer. Dansk is a company that also offers OEM style pressed shell mufflers - and if you do your research, the price may be better than OEM factory spares. Of course, there may be some people on this forum who would sell you their stock mufflers.

Call the British Embassy - ask them for a package of information that will tell you all you need to know about shipping a vehicle to the UK. If you are planning to live there permanently, you may be better off selling your car here, and buying over in Europe. If you are planning a shorter stay, for 2 - 3 years, you may be better off keeping the car and shipping it back to the US when you're done. If your career move leads you to other places within Europe - a LHD car will fit right in.

Congrats on the acquisition!

As for the whine - our 2004 996 40th displays a similar sound/whine, rising & falling with rpm's. Go to your/a dealer and test drive a car to get another reference point. I am sure you will hear the same sound........maybe the Fabspeed exhaust set up accentuates it somewhat...........

General rule of thumb - if the difference in performance is less than 5%, the average street person at the wheel can't feel it. Higher octane means less propensity to detonate prematurely - but a TT has a lower compression ratio anyway - so any real benefit, even though it would most likely be less than 5%, would only be felt when the engine was at high boost/revs. If you drive between 5K & 6.5K rpm most of the time - then you might notice the difference. The factory built the car for 93 spec gas anyway, so 100 was not really part of the design criteria at the outset.

Has anyone seen this Schnell cold air intake kit?  Does it look like the Fabspeed?  I have never seen the Fabspeed but was going to do the "orange cap" mod next weekend. 

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check out www.fabspeed.com - you will see all the cold air intake items on their site, which do look very similar to the Schnell kit.

If the rings are the cause - then the whole engine needs to come out, and the engine cases will have to come apart - which basically means a whole engine gasket kit. While you are in there, you may see other items that need attention - valves, pistons, bearings etc. There are alot of dimensional tolerance checks that need to be done as you reassemble the engine - and this requires some special tooling.

Maybe a solution is to get a used engine with lower miles/better history and simply replace it..........keep your original engine - or even exchange it with a used/remanufactured one to keep your cost down as much as possible.

What is the average time frame that the RMS usually needs replacing if installed correctly and the car is not tracked.

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It seems to be all over the place - although the tech section on the pca.org website has a lot of information where 20,000 miles per leak is one benchmark. It would be interesting to learn if anyone has any real stats on the "average" life.

Many on this forum swear by the 3M film application - almost all stipulate it is only as good as the installer's skills - so make sure you seek out an installer who has done a number of 996's - with satisfied customer references..........

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Thanks geza. The Porsche dealer is doing the install and I have a lot of confidence in their ability!

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Found the video - finally.......on the Porsche UK website........

http://www3.uk.porsche.com/english/gbr/911...rs/on-track.htm

I have never used them,but it sounds like a bargain.  How did you find them?

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Just did a search for "Porsche 996 workshop manuals" and Bingo! The price seems right - but you know the saying - "If it sounds too good to be true...................!"

Has anyone used the services of this company regarding buying their workshop manuals?

www.vipgroupinternational.com/catalog.htm

Any feedback would be appreciated.

Great news - Congrats!

Don't know what Boxster brakes are like, but all you need to do is lunge on the 911 brakes and you will immediately be reassured - the 40th was measured to stop in 110ft from 60mph - 3ft shy of the 2005 Boxster S at the same speed.

Many on this forum swear by the 3M film application - almost all stipulate it is only as good as the installer's skills - so make sure you seek out an installer who has done a number of 996's - with satisfied customer references..........

I was washing my car today and saw that the engine was getting a bit dirty and greasy. Any tips on what I should cover before I spray the engine with a mild cleaner?

Thanks for the help.

Adam

Make sure the engine is cool/cold before you clean. Apply an aluminum friendly degreaser to the underside of the engine - wait the required time, and hose clean. Maybe you'll have to repeat, or use a soft & long bristle brush to get all the nooks and crannies etc.

As for the top of the engine - under the tail lid - you may not want to hose in there, as the alternator is exposed, as well as a lot of engine electrical connectors.

If you do want to get the top of the engine as well, carfeully use plastic bags/glad wrap on all the connectors - cover the alternator, and make sure that the direct water spray jet does not get aimed at those sensitive areas.

After you are done - start the engine and steam off all the trapped water

Be mindful that the engine was coated with a corrosion protectant ex the factory, and any degreaser you use will remove some/most/all of that protectant. The protectant is there to prevent salt from winter road application from corroding the aluminum engine cases/components.

You may want to reapply the protectant - "cosmoline" is a brand name that you may be able to get at your local auto store......

If you do not drive the car in winter, and salt will not be an issue, then you should be OK with naked engine cases. Maybe you should have a chat with your local Porsche dealer service manager to get his opinion as well.

The car has no mods and I seldom hit redline. It is my daily driver and its running Mobil 1 synthetic. I do get on it at times but not to frequent. The tint of the smoke was more white but had a light blue tint to it.  The first time this happened I had a check engine light and my mass air sensor was bad so I replaced it. Ever since the new mass air sensor I have not seen this and that was three months ago. On my 30,000mi service Porsche techs found no problems or told me of any problems to look for so I've been pretty relaxed with my car. I guess I will drive it with precaution until I see it occur again. Do you think that is wise or should I take it in for a check up? I feel without the problem occurring during the check up that I'll just be stuck with a service charge but if it happens to me again then I will push them to find the problem.

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Check your oil level when HOT - as stipulated in the owner's manual...........if above the full mark (check both the dipstick & electronic gauge) you may simply have a little too much oil in there - especially if the 30K service was very recent?

Thanks - All the helpful comments and that picture from geza have really stoked my interest! I'm still waiting for the car to arrive at the dealer but I should get a chance to spend some time with it (her?) by the weekend.

More images..............

wow, where'd you get that pic?

is there a similar one for the Boxster 550 SE?

aloha

steve

It used to be available on the Porsche website as wallpaper..........but they have since redone the site, and removed a whole lot of images, information etc - must have been constrained by storage.......? There was even a video of the 40th going around Weissach - with the engineer responsible for chassis development at the wheel doing the comentary......alas, it has been removed too..........

I personally like the 40th for the following:

1.) The color is beautiful in person. Personally, I'd replace the wheels, though. Or trade them for the normal Carrera II wheels.

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I was wondering about the polished wheels as well, although I have yet to see them up close. Does anyone know what "shot blasted" wheels are?

Cheers!

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I personally like the 40th for the following:

1.) The color is beautiful in person. Personally, I'd replace the wheels, though. Or trade them for the normal Carrera II wheels.

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I was wondering about the polished wheels as well, although I have yet to see them up close. Does anyone know what "shot blasted" wheels are?

Cheers!

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Search for "40th anniversary 911" on your browser and you will find plenty of images of the car - wheels and all. Imagine the wheel surface after being blasted with minute steel shot - and you get a finish as suggested that is not quite chrome, but not satin aluminum either - it is in between.

Some perspective with regard to value: If you bought a stock 2004 C2 and optioned it with all the 40th features, including fancy leather luggage - you would hit approx US115K (assuming you could also get a Turbo front fitted before you took delivery of your loaded C2)

Looks like I'm a victim of the RMS curse and I want to know if it's needed to bleed the clutch after the change out to complete the job? I'm about to change out my brake fluid but was wondering if I should wait until after the seal change. :huh:

TIA!

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Maybe you could ask the tech staff at your dealership if the clutch slave cylinder remains attached to its hose - but is taken off the transmission housing before it comes out. If that is the case, you could bleed the system prior to RMS surgery.

If the slave is part of the transmission, and is not easily removed - then bleeding after it is all back together may be your only option...........

Anybody have advice on what to keep my eyes open for on this model year (2004 996 anniversary model)?

Matching leather luggage - 2 suitcases + key fob pouch, all in Natural Grey leather. These items were standard with the 40th. We have 3500 miles on ours - no rattles, leaks, wierd noises......pulls smoothly, they pull very hard and strong from about 4300 - 4500 rpm. Do all your routine checks - cosmetic exterior & interior, literature, service history, oil condition, window sticker maybe etc.......the cars have self levelling Xenon high & low beams as standard............suspension will feel a little stiff since the car is lower than standard. Locking differential really shoots you out of sharp corners when you apply power on exit........all in all, these models are a blast to drive. Overall, the car should just feel extremely solid in avery aspect.

Good luck!

I thought real hard about buying one last year and I said...this car is just over priced for what it is. Someone above said you'd have to keep this car for 20 years for it to really appreciate. I think he's right. But in the end, if you like it, then you should get it.

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Just as an FYI - ours listed at US96K+, and we closed the deal at the dealership for 75K.........they were moving cars for the 997 models, and this was an internet incentive blah blah blah..........we were lucky, and that swayed the decision a hell of a lot.

I have an opportunity to purchase a pre-owned 04 996 anniversary model with 7000 miles on the odometer, nav system, 6 CD changer, and Bose HiFi. 

I'm currently driving an 03 Boxster.  Any comments on what to look for or specfic questions to ask the Porsche dealer?

Thanks for the input!

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Porsche says that the 997 Carrera S and the 40th Anniversary 996 both reach 125mph in 16.5 seconds............that suggests the 40th was a pretty good package.

Whatever you decide, you probably won't go wrong....looking forward to any feedback you care to share.

I have an opportunity to purchase a pre-owned 04 996 anniversary model with 7000 miles on the odometer, nav system, 6 CD changer, and Bose HiFi. 

I'm currently driving an 03 Boxster.  Any comments on what to look for or specfic questions to ask the Porsche dealer?

Thanks for the input!

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My opinion is biased, since my wife and I bought a 40th Anniversary 911 last year - we also happend to both turn 40, so there was an extra incentive. It has the special leather interior, X51 Power Kit, slightly lower suspension, unique wheels, limited slip differential, PSM, Turbo front, third radiator and a host of other options that made the car attractive to us.........the fact that only 1963 of them were made world wide may or may not mean something to you......but if you plan on keeping the car, and in excellent condition, you may have an asset someone will share your passion for if and when you decide to trade up or whatever in the future. They do stand out from the regular 996 cars - maybe that is a desirable characteristic. Drive it and see for yourself - and try a used Turbo as well to be objective about your final assessment.

If you check everything, and it is all OK - humid or not, that is as good as you can expect - most likely. Maybe you should have a Porsche service center check it out - or ask other people with your same type of car if they experience the same situations in your country..........

whenever i drive my Boxster for more than an hour the temp goes up to more than the half as you can see in the picture. the coolant level is ok. if i turn off the air conditioner the temp goes back to normal (ie. half). i live in a very hot country and these days the temp is around 120 Fahrenheit (50 celsius).

the specs are as follows:-

boxster (2.7) model 2000

tiptronic

US specs

60k kilometers

so please let me know if this is normal or there is something wrong?

if something is wrong what can be the cause?

thanks.

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The air conditioner gas coils are located in front of your engine coolant radiators. As such, the air flowing through the front of your car has to get through the air conditioner gas coils, then to the engine radiators. Any heat picked up through the aircon coils gets passed through the engine radiators. This is partly the reason for hotter engine temperature gauge readings after you switch the air conditioner on.

In addition, there may be (I am not sure if these are fitted to the Boxster) a transmission oil cooling coil within the engine radiators on a separate curcuit - which is contributing as well to your water temperature. Since you live in a very hot environment - you may well be seeing a normal temperature reading.

Do you see this high reading when your weather cools down later in the season? If your high temperature reading follows the hot weather season where you live, all may be completely normal.

You may also want to check to see if there are any dead leaves or other rubbish caught in the entry to your cooling radiators - a build up of dirt, dust & trash can really plug the airflow - resulting in the same types of high heat readings. Start with a good spray of water in through the front of the air entry nostrils and then see if you can remove any plastic grilles - get your hand in there and feel around for any foreign matter.

Carrera GT blended with 911...........!