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rob545

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Everything posted by rob545

  1. Well I found the culprit, looks like passenger side actuator is leaking, found tell tale oil on the garage floor and along the plastic wheel well liner. I am debating whether to tackle this project myself or leave it to a pro. Mechanics of it all look fairly straightforward. I'll keep you posted. It does seem that the tops are fairly reliable on the 997's, apparently I got "lucky" Thanks for the link Rick.
  2. Well guys, murphy's law in full effect. My warranty expired in March and my reliable 997 now has what I fear could be a costly issue. I was wondering if someone may have experienced a similar issue with their 997 Cabriolet. This morning while raising the top I noticed it was having a difficult time getting past the 12 o'clock position. I reached back and lent it a hand while I kept the top button pressed and was able to successfully close it. This evening I tried lowering the top and as it went back, it moved slower than normal and when it reached its fully stowed position ( the top not the actual cover) it would not complete the cycle and I was only able to get it to fully complete by pressing down on the folded top to trigger sensor that indicate it fully closed which allow the rest of the process to complete. Has anyone had experience with a similar problem? Is the actual top actuated via a hydraulic pump or electric motors? Any ideas on proper way to troubleshoot?
  3. Do you have the stock cats and headers to replace and test with? This would be my first troubleshooting step. If the stock system still hesitates you know it's not your add-ons. Has the ECU been remapped? Is the behavior recent or chronic? This may sound ridiculously simple, but every few months I begin to detect a slight hesitation in my 997, and I simply add a bottle of Techron fuel system cleaner and by the next tankful it is usually gone or significantly reduced. I suspect these vehciles are quite sensitive to any type of fuel system build up. Aside from that, you may also consider the possibility they have both been fed some poor or contaminated gas. Just a thought. Good luck. I have tried and tested many types of super plus unleaded fuel. The problem is only at very low revs, above that (2000 rpm) the car is very fast I understand. Just think that a bottle of detergeant is fairly cheap diagnosis if it changes anything. My experience has been that when it needs the treatment, it is most evident under low RPM conditions, it has never affected the power once things get flowing. I think proper metering is critical at the lower revs and as power builds so does the tolerance with any inconsistency in fuel delivery.
  4. Do you have the stock cats and headers to replace and test with? This would be my first troubleshooting step. If the stock system still hesitates you know it's not your add-ons. Has the ECU been remapped? Is the behavior recent or chronic? This may sound ridiculously simple, but every few months I begin to detect a slight hesitation in my 997, and I simply add a bottle of Techron fuel system cleaner and by the next tankful it is usually gone or significantly reduced. I suspect these vehciles are quite sensitive to any type of fuel system build up. Aside from that, you may also consider the possibility they have both been fed some poor or contaminated gas. Just a thought. Good luck.
  5. I believe he is referring to vehicle miles. I'd be curious to learn if the 996/997 cars are aging gracefully or not. Anyone out there with 100k+ mileage cars that want to chime in?
  6. I have same year 997 and it seems you have something wrong with settings or a hardware problem as described above. I am fairly picky on sound, and although never satisfied with enough power, must say that Porsche/Bose did an admirable job of a solid sounding system in a small package. Have it checked out soonest, and best of all listen with your own ears to another similarly equipped vehicle.
  7. I have 2006 Carrera and have the exact same issue when running in Auto mode down here in muggy So Fla.
  8. My vehicle is not TPMS equipped, but I seem to recall form other 997's that there is an area in the drivers information system where you indicate which OE wheel/tire package is fitted to your vehicle. From your description, it seems your sensors are communicating just fine, but system wants to know what tires are fitted. Your owners manual should have this process detailed. Let us know how it turns out. Good luck!
  9. Baring the fact that you may be dealing with an unscrupulous vendor (use credit card), you are probably going to be just fine. We manufacture wheels (forged and multi piece, not what you want to abuse for winter applications), and what you are seeing there appears like a typical aftermarket replica wheel. These are quite common and are generally perfecly safe, especially if made in/for European markets and subject to TUV standards (applicable in both Italy and Germany). Most of these cheaper wheels tend to give you compromise in terms of finish quality/durability, but they are generally round, hold air, and safe to drive on. Some real low quality stuff has had issues with runout, hubcentricity and finishing, but more nuissance than safety issues. That being said, there is no "DOT" requirment on passenger car wheels (yes on trucks), so the caveat emptor doctrine does apply when purchasing aftermarket wheels.
  10. I think the engine issue will be addressed to your satisfaction but I am curious to what the second opinion you get about the clutch "chatter" you describe will be. I have a non-s 2006 997 and have complained to the dealer about an annoyingly rough clutch engagement issue with similar response. Other 997's I drive from base model to DM GT3's do not exhibit such a characteristic and are very easy to drive. I find my own very finicky and virtually impossible for others to drive smoothly. Please keep us posted on your progress and good luck!
  11. +1 on what Sam is saying. The 295 is just too narrow for that 12" wheel. You will have no problems running the GT3 tire and rim combo on the back of the Carrera. If you are selling as a set is best bet.
  12. I have run across Krytox before. There seem to be different "types" GPL, CRJ, etc. Which one would you recommend? Does anyone have an outlet they care to recommend?
  13. Alan, I have a 997 Cab same year same mileage and it never occurred to me to mention that on the forum but I experience same thing. It is particularly noticeable after more spirited driving. I was also thinking brakes/clutch/rubber hoses.
  14. +1 on above. It is the most annoying trait of an otherwise fine gearbox (and automobile). I really would have hoped that by now Porsche could have addressed the issue. I have driven many a manual transmission including the Vette and Stang mentioned above and have not had such a frequent nuisance. And yes, it does rear its head at the worst possible of times!!
  15. I'm not sure about orange wheel on a silver car, but there are all kinds of combinations you can do on wheels to personalize your car. You should go with what YOU like. I work with wheels for a living so trust me I have about seen it all. On the "Orange" subject check this one out. the wild looking paint scheme certainly is not for everyone, but then again, there is nothing understated about an orange RS!! :D
  16. Both cars will probably run similar routine maintenance costs, as far as the occasional repair, that will depend on how you drive and how lucky you are ;) If I may suggest, you should really go out and drive both of the cars, I went through the M3 versus 997 debate and decided on a 997. I absolutely love driving the car. A close friend recently picked up an M3 and I had the opportunity to spend an entire day driving the car. Although it is a capable and fun to drive car, I was very happy to hop back into the 997. If you do not need the greater utility the M3 offers in terms of passenger and cargo space, there really is no substitute for the pleasure of driving the Porsche.
  17. Enjoy! The car is beautiful. Owned one (non S) since August and had the chance to put it on a track just yesterday. All I can say is WOW! Still can't wipe the smile from myself, they really are outstanding machines. If you get the chance, I highly recommend "stretching her legs".
  18. We manufacture aftermarket wheels for Porsche and I can assure you that Ken in Irvine is correct. A narrow body 997 needs a higher offset in the rear than the 37 indicated below. A spacer reduces the effective offset of any wheel. Unfortunately those wheels just won't work on the car. The fronts will work just fine, but rears will be a problem.
  19. Well I finally got to working at it this weekend. Front bumper removal went about as smoothly as it can go. Thank you for the input! Running wires for new Radar system proved to be more challenging than I would have expected but finally got all through. I have a new challenge, I need to run a wire from license plate frame (rear laser pickup) to the passenger compartment. Are there any tips, tricks, or suggestions you can offer on running wire from the engine compartment to the passenger compartment?
  20. Thank you for htose detailed pictures. I actually misworded the topic since scope of my work was to remove the front bumper cover/spoiler, not the actual bumper itself. Nonetheless, good reference. I appreciate it.
  21. Planned weekend project got a bit complicated (middle of kitchen rennovations, I keep forgetting my oath to never do rennovations again :) )so I'll give it a shot again next week. Thanks for the info.
  22. Thanks RFM. Will give it a shot. That should give me clear access to that black plastic scoop in the middle correct?
  23. Hello all, I'm a newbie to the board and Porsche community. I have spent considerable time on the forum searching for information on how to remove the front bumper on a 997 Cab. Can anyone point me in the right direction? I need to reposition the front center air scoop, looks like it has been pushed in and the tabs have detached, and am also considering installation of an integrated Radar detector which will necessitate an externally mounted antenna and laser shifter. A link to how the removal should be undertaken or some basic pointers would be greatly appreciated.
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