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rob545

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  • Posts

    48

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About rob545

  • Birthday 11/15/1971

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.corwheels.com
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Custom wheels and Luxury Exotics

Profile Fields

  • From
    Miami, Fl
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2006 Seal Gray 997 Cab
    1995 White 993 Cab

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  1. rob545
    Hi there I’m thinking maybe your condenser fan is not working properly or is clogged with debris I’d start there. If the system is cooling when you are moving down the road I would say that is a likely culprit.
  2. rob545
    Hi John, Your indy shop's advice is correct. We work with aftermarket fitments on these cars up to 20", and they have proven to be quite tolearant of slight variations on OD. Typically, we try to respect the factory stagger (typical cars have none, but hen again Porsche are not typical cars!). In the case of your C4S the factory 235/35-18 (25.48 OD) and 305/30-19 (26.20 OD) has a factory stagger of 2.8%. The 235/40-18 (25.4) and 285/35-18 (25.86) yields a 1.8% stagger. I would suggest you consider a 295/35-18 (26.13) which combined with the 235/40 will give you the exact factory stagger of 2.8%. That being said so long as you keep the OD difference to less than 1% or so, the cars run just fine. As a matter of fact we had one by running 245/30-20 (25.79 OD) and 315/25-20 (26.20 OD) a 1.6% difference, and client reported no trouble or lights. Good luck and enjoy! Robert
  3. rob545
    Although not ideal situation, the front wheel should be suitable as a temporary spare. Front offset is lower than rear, and rear brake is smaller than front so you should be OK.
  4. rob545
    Can you confirm exactly what size rear tires you are trying to fit? I checked 295/30-19 and Tire Rack shows those available in the Michelin PSS.
  5. rob545
    Great write-up! Thanks for the tip. My 997 certainly does not give one that "warm and fuzzy" feeling when turning over after being warm. Especially down here in So Fla in July!
  6. rob545
    Great! Thanks for the advice, I will let you know how it turns out.
  7. rob545
    Mijostyn, I tried locating that site as I have a worn section I would like to repair. Would you be able to post a link to the sit? leatherworldonline is not an active site. Thanks!
  8. rob545
    Jeff, I understand the appeal of the coilover. But for a daily/street, you may want to consider running lowering springs. I have pretty much same car as you are considering and have been very pleased with Eibach sport lowering springs. I cannot imagine wanting the car much lower. It has been a few years but I believe parts and labor ran about $600 including alignment. Just a thought..
  9. rob545
    I agree with White987S, the OE Porsche kit is about as good as it gets. Includes a spacer that will bolt onto the mounting pad of vehicle (you will barely know it is there), along with the requisite longer factory style bolts. BTW, the car has quite a bit of room of room, if you want flush to fender you may consider going out 10mm. I don't know if Porsche makes a 10mm kit but companies such as H&R do. The only caveat is that their supplied bolts may not match your OE front bolts so I would ask that question before ordering.
  10. rob545
    Seems to me you likely have one or both of the hydraulic actuators bad on the vehicle. The 997/996 system is hydraulic and is generally far more reliable han the older 993 style mechanical system. If one of your actuators has gone bad, you have likely lost enough fluid so that system is not able to raise or lower the top. If you look directly behind the doors where rear wheel well plastic is, you may find signs of oily mess on one or both sides. Essentially, when the actuators go bad, they drip right onto the plastic drains and this leads the fluid right out the same location that water would flow. If you do find you need to replace actuator, you should seriously consider changing both. I replaced 1 and within 60 days had to replace the other. I had been warned by the parts department that they suggest replacing them in "pairs"....
  11. rob545
    Harry, I have a 993 with same issue. I have not been able to solve the problem as my car is a 1995 which has different steering wheel horn/airbag bracket than later cars. I learned this the hard way after ordering the repacement part from the dealership, disassembling the steering, and discovering the hange. Unforunately, the small rubber grommets are not available as a separate item, and the solutios I hve read online about fixing them by "reinforcing" with superglue did not work for me. If you come up with a solution please let me know as I am driving car with the horn fuse removed to avoid drawing a lot of unwanted attenton!!
  12. rob545
    Sullivas, You can be almost certian the cuplrit is the mirror. I had the very same problem when I first purchased my 997.1. It drove me nuts, although it would only be audible with windows down or when the convertible top was in the open position. I was still under the warranty period, so the dealership took care of it, but they described the process as one of essentially splitting open the mirtror case siliconing the seam and putting it back together. Again, I do not have hands on experience, but it DID solve the problem. Good luck!
  13. rob545
    You will more than likely be just fine, but without knowing the width of the wheels, simply knowing offset change will not be enough. If you can confirm wheels size and offset, I can let you know if you will enounter any trouble.
  14. rob545
    Thanks JFP. The test strips are new so are hopefully reasonably accurate.
  15. rob545
    I purchased the PH test strips but am unsure as to what the proper PH level is for the coolant. Does anyone have an idea as to what the correct PH "range" would be for the 997?
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