rizzo

Does it sound like a kazoo?

My 04S will "drift" to the right. I would not classify it as a pull. On a straight, flat freeway at speed the car will begin to move to the right if there is no input from me. Minimal input is required to keep it straight. Minimal being defined as touching the wheel with the slightest of left turning "pressure" applied.

This is how it's been since I got the car and after several alignments.

Hope that helps.

:cheers:

Hi, I recently purchased a 2005 Porsche Cayenne S (64,000 miles). I brought it in for a service and alignment as I noticed that it would pull to right. I've read a lot of message boards saying this could happen with larger vehicles, wide tires, etc. I drive the same road with a my Silverado Crew Cab with 20" wheels and wide tires and never feel it pull to the right.

The alignment service didn't seem to fix the problem. I was wondering if anyone else has experienced this type of behavior? If so, what fixed it. Maybe there are some other things that could cause it besides alignment???? I just don't know what it could be but I'd like to get it fixed. Other than the pull to the right I love the vehicle.

Although it's hardly noticeable I think the steering wheel is turned slightly to the right and might be the cause. Is it possible the steering wheel / mechanisms need to be re-centered / aligned? I'm not sure if my model has the servotronic system but I thought it might need calibrated as well. As you can see I'm searching every angle for a solution and desperately need some expert advice...

Thanks for any advice or tips to help me solve this problem.

Excellent!

Thank guys!

KR

Front -- A is camber -- B is caster

Rear -- A is camber

awesome Loren - thanks for the clarification...

Where are the adjustment points?

I have an 06' CTT and camber is adjustable at the front and rear - I'm 99% certain the case is the same for a Cayenne S

Chances are the indy didn't know much about alignments or the Cayenne for that matter. Find a good alignment shop, preferably a shop that has "target" type alignment machine. ie: an alignment machine that is constantly taking pictures of the heads mounted on the wheels. Much more accurate than the old school laser types.

A good alignment shop will know what you are talking about when you ask.

• Got a speeding ticket at 4:00 AM in the morning in South Caroling on I95 going 86 in a 70. 86 was probably the fastest I was going the entire trip and it happened to be when a South Carolina State Trooper was hitting me with instant on radar (I forget what band it was). The Valentine lit up when I was about 100 yards away from him sitting hidden in the median.

I hope SC is not one of the surcharge states... Look into that before you pay it. I got a bill from Ohio for 1600.00 after I paid a speeding ticket in Columbus. Their angle is, "you admitted guilt by paying the ticket so now you owe us (the state) for speeding on our roads"

Glad the towing experience worked out.

Hello all.

Anyone here ever had the need for a camber adjustment on their Cayenne?

An alignment was done at the dealer five months ago. I never saw the specs of the before and after. Don't know if camber was adjusted to spec then or not.

Took the car to an INDY do a rotate, balance, and alignment check.

Camber was off according to readings and indicated an adjustment was needed.

Tech said it could not be adjusted without a camber kit and the values being displayed as out of spec should have been "grayed" out on the screen because camber on Cayenne's are "non-adjustable" alignment items without a camber kit being installed.

What is the experience of others in this forum?

If camber is out of spec and "non-adjustable" does this indicate other worn suspension items that need immediate replacement?

It's my understanding that the battery in the rear is for starting the engine. The one under the seat is for everything else...

I have 2 batteries. Do I replace both? or are there such thing as "cranking" battery and "aux" battery?

Zimmerman are the OEM rotors.

I'm using the drilled version of their rotors now and have no problems.

Has the alternator been tested?

I'm in agreement with mudman2.

My 04S has developed the intermittent "no sound" phenomenon too. After one or two restarts or sitting overnight, everything is back to normal.

Some research on this forum has shown similar issues and most of them pointed to the amp. One contributor found that the fuse on his unit was loose. Shoved the fuse all the way in and never had the problem again.

If nothing had changed on the car (impact or disassembly) I'd have to wonder why a fiber optic cable would go bad.

$0.02

:cheers:

On 05 I would make a bet on the amp

My center bearing will move about as much as you have described and the dealer said it was in great shape when my front differential was replaced. Don't forget that bearing is surrounded by a pretty thick rubber grommet for noise isolation.

IMO there should be some movement otherwise the rubber would be too hard and transmit too much noise to the chassis. Hope that helps.

Thanks for that guys, My car is 04 Cayenne S, 60k miles, I can fairly easily move shaft about 1/4inch up and down so guess bearing is knackered!

Check for a vacuum leak. The power assist brakes need vacuum to the booster. If you're not getting any assist (hard pedal) it is possible that you have a vacuum leak. Since you have replaced the coolant pipes (removal of the intake etc...) you have have either missed a vacuum hose or have a vacuum leak at the intake thus the high rpm's.

Probably just a hose is off. Try to trace it from the brake booster first before you disassemble anything.

Uhhhhhhh why were plastic pipes installed 35K miles ago? I thought the replacements coolant pipes were aluminum?

I have plan similar to yours... It seems that once the major TSB items are serviced they become more reliable. My front differential began to fail around 85K and I had it replaced at 92K. Coolant pipes went just before the differential swap. In one month I spent more than 5K on the car. Mine is an 04S

I'm Hoping to get another 90K before the next set of coolant pipes and differential.

Cheers.

I had a similar problem until I changed out the cabin air filter. It's an easy swap and may solve your problem...

How does the pedal feel? I never opened the hydraulic circuit when I did mine but I had to pump the pedal many times before I had a firm pedal and at least two hundred miles before I had the feel I did prior to the relining.

Were the rotors clean at installation? If not, the pads could have become contaminated and will never have the proper performance.

Light bulb changing can be found in the owners manual.

The search function yielded this thread...

Cayenne Front Pads and Rotors DIY

:)

FWIW, I have seen these center console assembly's on Ebay from time to time. Might be worth a look before buying new if you decide to replace it.

:thumbup: Cool!

Here's a link to a video I have put together when my girlfriend and I replaced the pneumatic springs on our 2004 Cayenne S.

Audio sucks and the video is somewhat incomplete but I think it will help those who are worried about removing the trim (as I was) and getting to the springs themselves.

We replaced both the hatch and glass springs/struts since it made sense to do so while everything was opened.

Got the parts from Suncoast and saved enough to make it worthwhile to do this in the driveway versus allowing the dealer to do it.

The cutout in the bodywork for the springs is really small for my hands. There is no way I could have done this by myself.

In addition the hatch will need to be lifted slightly once you get one end of the new spring attached. If the door is not lifted you would have to compress the spring slightly and I can tell you that will not happen. These springs are under a huge amount of pressure and the coiled spring is quite strong.

It is my opinion that this is a two person job to make it as easy as possible.

Hope it's useful!!

~ Rizzo

Just writing a follow up...

Installed the brake light flasher and it worked well enough. The problem is that it DID throw out the check rear brake light warning on the dash accompanied with the beep.

When the flashing cycle stopped and the brake lights went to constant on (while my foot was still on the brake pedal) the warning went away.

Didn't fry the controller module. Oh well, it was worth a shot for the extra safety I believe I'd get out of it.

You can use a flare nut crow's foot. It is designed for this and you can attach a 3/8ths drive torque wrench to it.

A Flare Nut Crow's Foot is not really a bit or a wrench... kind of both really.

1 per corner... 2 front and 2 rear.

Zimmerman are OEM rotors...

Pagid are OEM. I'd use the HAWK low dust formula.

Cross Drilled rotors are more prone to issues and should be inspected more often.

Slotted are the way to go if you actually need something in that direction.