rizzo

The best way to determine if there is a blown head gasket is to do a compression check on each cylinder.

Any updates?

rizzo, you can do it without the tool, if you tighten the bearing support bolts last, and make sure the support is completely free of stress and mounted straight.

Thanks RFM... this makes this job far more attractive since the tool, if I found a vendor for it, seems to be 245.00 US. My dealer wants 1K for parts and labor. From my dealer the shaft is 700. If I really don't need the tool then the math works out to do this myself.

Thanks again RFM!

KR

Remove the bolts from the front transfer case. Remove the bolts from the middle bearing support. Remove the 3 bolts from the rear differential (rubber circular connecting part remains on the shaft). Lower the exhaust. Pry the rear end of shaft loose from the rear differential with a pry bar and pull out. Install in reverse order.

RFM, when I read the manual and TSB on replacing the cardan shaft it shows that a special "bearing centering tool" is required. Seems you have some experience with this issue. Do you have to have to centering tool or can the job be done properly without it?

My dealer looked at me oddly when I wanted to order the tool and one of their mechanics had not heard of such a tool.

Thoughts?

KR

Also could be the water pump...just happened to me 0n my "04. Same thing, coolant loss, no puddle but eventually smell of hot antifreeze.

we figured out..

it was the coolant tank, they have replaced it and now it runs fine. There was a huge leak in the old coolant tank. Thank god I didn't have to change the pipes.. :rolleyes:

Yet... :D

Well she has sprung a leak....I've found where it's coming from...

Any takers on the fluid and where?

Looks like coolant to me.

This is a common problem with a lot of Cayennes.

I have had the same thing on my 04S coupled with the "gerbils (or hamsters)" rummaging around in there at all times.

Very annoying and expensive to "fix" according to some.

I don't know if Porsche has a real fox for it or if they are just throwing new parts of the same design at it or not.

I have read that some have opened the box and lubricated the actuator arms and that has helped with the noises.

$0.02

KR

both left and right temperature controls are set to 64 degrees. left side is very noticably colder than the right side. both at the center vent and each side vent.

what is the cause? servo? and is it a servo buried above the glolvebox.

thanks

Im have the same problem too, when I put the temp to HI for both sides, the left side blows very warm as expected but right side is still ice cold.

Now using either Porsche oil filter socket or Hazet 2169 or rubber strap wrench remove plastic (fragile) oil filter housing, go slow and oil spurts out sometimes. Replace oring on housing and filter cartridge, there is a small gap in the oring groove that allows you to pry oring out with a small screwdriver without damaging the housing. Use torque wrench if you can't feel the oring seat, to replace canister.

Seems Hazet makes many different sizes of filter wrenches. What size did you use for your filter?

Thanks!

KR

EDIT... Woopse! Seems 2169 IS the model of the particular wrench. Thank you Mr. Google!

IMHO - yes.

I would put the one on the left side - near traffic.

I've always thought my horn sounded wimpy. Not in a "not loud enough" way but too high pitched.

If there are two horns in the car is it reasonable to assume there is a low and a high tone horn. If so maybe the low tone is out.

Sure sounds effeminate from my perspective when I use it...

Maybe I need a locomotive airhorn!!!

My 04 S w/82K spring suspension has developed a similar sound under somewhat similar circumstances.

Above 45Mph I hear a "metallic" waugh waugh waugh sound too. Cannot discern what side or corner it is coming from but assume a bearing is failing.

Slight changes in acceleration or deceleration do seem to alter the pitch and actual frequency of the sound too. Worries me that this acceleration and deceleration making this difference could point to a differential failing.

Thoughts?

Keith I have PMd you, I have not received what I bought form you over 2 months ago! Right now you have all my money and I have received nothing, this is not how one does business over the internet, please sort this out!

JP

I paid and got a download link within moments yesterday June 13, 2009. Huge amount of content. Exactly what I wanted and had been looking for.

Just made it under the 4 year warranty window. Cylinders 1 and 5 replaced today.

If I understand Porsches' recommendation you need to replace ALL coil packs at once.

Tightening torque for fastening screw = 14 Nm (10.5 ft. lbs.) Same for front and rear.

Hi everyone.

New here, and I'm starting to look into a SUV now since I need a bigger boot, but I also want something that purrs when I floor it (TechArt exhaust :P )

Right now I drive a BMW M5E60, and while I love it and it surprises me every day, I get 8MPG in the city, no matter what. Sometimes, it drops to 7MPG. Needless to say that the local gas station knows me by name :rolleyes:

What is the real world MPG on a CayenneS 4.5V8? They say 12MPG, but they also said the M5 gets 14MPG. :rolleyes: The newer 4.8 S models are out of my price league.

How expensive are they to maintain?

Do they break down alot?

Thanks!

I have an 04 S. If I am flogging it in the city it has dropped to 13mpg. If I take it really easy I have done 15mpg in the city. If I am using cruise control on the highway at 75mph I have done 18.7Mpg. One a recent trip back home I averaged 16.6mpg with several 130mph+sustained runs.

As far as breaking down... it has been my experience on this board that the early models have had their quirks for sure. Mine still gets a bulb out warning despite all bulbs functioning. Durametric software (code check and CEL light clearing) has been a big money saver... I get cylinder misfire, crank and camshaft position sensor warnings regularly (Once every two months or so, every five tanks of fuel?).

The coolant tubes will likely need to be replaced soon after 80K miles (not looking forward to that). Some have had nearly incurable drive shaft vibrations.

Do some more reading on this board and prep a list of things you need to find out about the unit you are looking at buying. Check the local Porsche dealer to at least get a feel for how yo will be treated when you bring it in for service. Some on this board have talked about less that good service from their local dealer for legitimate warranty service.

Good luck! And enjoy what you get!

God knows I have!!

Hello all...

I have a favor to ask of the willing on this forum.

I finally got my 2004 S back from the body shop after the collision repair. They have done a fantastic job.

The one thing that seems new to me is when the drivers side window is down I hear a fairly significant rattle when the door closes. I think it is the window glass bouncing around in there.

I do not recall hearing this prior to the collision. Both left side doors were completely rebuilt. The rear left does not do this but of course those windows do not roll all the way down. The right side front door also has somewhat of a rattle but nothing like the left side.

Anyone here willing to roll down the drivers door window on their own unit, open and close the door a couples times, and then share with me whether or not they hear the rattle I am talking about?

The right side doors were repainted per my request to address some scratches so the door hardware had to be removed. If the window glass was removed on the right side too this may explain why the rattle is present on the right side too.

Does anyone have the rattle I describe?

I need a barometer in order to get the body shop to address this. This is more annoying than the gerbil operated ac system servos!

Any help is appreciated

Hi Loren. I did, I found nothing on the rears. Only this on the front, which I added: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...54&hl=brake

Can you direct me to the rear procedure, it's not the same as the front.

Hey Loren.

I am also doing the rear brakes and rotors, and it is definitely different from the front brakes. First question, the caliper bolts holding on the caliper are a 12 point star design (ie like a torx bit) not like the front which you can take off with a regular socket.

Do you know what size that star bolt is? I tested with a T60 torx bolt and it is quite a bit smaller than what is needed. and do you know anyplace to buy the required 12 point bit?

here is a photo of the bolt.

FWIW... these bits are called triple square. XZN is the technical designation.

I bought a set of them from Amazon.com believe it or not. I have not used them yet to do the brakes.

Here is a tiny url to the set that I bought.

http://tinyurl.com/o7tw4o

FYI as I understand the torque settings for the bolts holding the calipers in place is 200 ft lbs. Make sure you have a good set of these bits before you apply that much torque to remove them. As soon as I find out what size I need for those bolts I will be buying the snap-on version of that size thanks to the fact their set is 176 bucks!

I have the same problem.

have you guys fixed it? and how?

For what it's worth the Durametric software does show two error codes relating the air conditioner servo motor(s).

On occasion, the right side will blow cold air when the heat is designated. After a few minutes it magically coverts to heat. (Guess the servo finally moved the flap?)

Afraid of spending entire return check at Porsche dealer to fix this. Someone suggested, earlier in this thread, that it would be labor intensive to repair.

Wasn't left with much confidence that the problem would not come back after the repair either.

Anyone here have experience with either of their all terrain tires from Pirelli?

I can't imagine there being much difference for what I am going to do with them so here is another part of my question.

With 18 in wheels:

The ATR is only available in the 255/55-18

The A/T is only available in the Porsche recommended 235/60-18 size

Will half an inch of sidewall height really make that much difference for going off road?

I'm headed to Big Bend National Park in Texas and will head down River Road (apx 60 miles). There are parts of this road that you can average 15mph. It's not a hard core off road trail though there are some parts that all terrain tires may be helpful.

Any opinions on whether or not I really need the 235's?

Thanks!

Except the difference in color red/amber, the unit will have the same construction and connections.

My Cayenne is a US spec 04 Cayenne S and it has amber bulbs. FWIW

Sadly, I have a few pics to share after a drunk hit me a couple weeks ago.

I've never seen a Cayenne opened up before and I suspect many here have not either.

More details can be seen and read about at my blog here

Heading back to body shop today for more updates...

I had the same problem with my 04 S.

As others have mentioned, I could deactivate the light if I pulled up on the pedal with my foot just slightly.

Dealer replaced entire parking brake mechanism saying there were no serviceable parts. Don't recall amount for part and labor but it was under 200 total.

Hi Loren,

I need a part number for the center console plate. This is the plate that extends from in front of the gear selector back to the cup holder.

2004 Cayenne S black exterior, beige interior. V8

Item 8?

Yes! Item 8 and now that I think about it, Item 9 as well.

Thanks in advance!

Hi Loren,

I need a part number for the center console plate. This is the plate that extends from in front of the gear selector back to the cup holder.

2004 Cayenne S black exterior, beige interior. V8

I stumbled upon these wheels from another enthusiast and got a smokin deal. I put one on the scale and it came it at 23.5 Lbs which I'm sure is way lighter than the Sport Technos (which will be for sale soon).

They are Champion Motorsport RS98 20" with Ralph Boothe center caps, the bad part is I still have to wait three months to put them on....that's Canada for you.....

Nice wheels. I'll bite... why do you have to wait three months to put them on?

Hello all...

My 04 S has decided to not let the seatbelt for the right rear side out. Seems it is jammed somehow. It is in the retracted position.

When I attempt to pull it out gently or otherwise it simply will not pay out any slack. It will retract further but wont allow any belt to come out.

Has this happened to anyone else?

I can see the mechanism if I remove the access panel in the cargo area but don't know if there is anything I can try before I head to the dealer.

Can you tell me the manufacturer? Any drawbacks? Did you use OEM pads?

Matt

Just bought a set of Zimmerman F&R cross drilled rotors for my 04 S from a vendor on Ebay per mudman2's suggestion.

Just checked again and they still have 9 sets. They show a BIN at 600 or best offer and I offered 450. The offer was IMMEDIATELY accepted which tells me I should have offered less. Shipping was 60.00

Took them a week to finally ship and that only after I initiated the dispute process with paypal. Finally got them one week after they were shipped.