Dan Hinkebein

It's not selling because the value is between $15k and $20k. For reference, I purchased my 2006 Cayenne Turbo 3 years ago with 95,000 miles on it. It has all of these same option and has the panoramic sunroof and roof transport system as well as the coolant pipe upgrade for $11k. Mine is a 3 owner. If you do proceed, make sure that the coolant pipes have been upgraded from the plastic to the metal. The plastic will fail and strand you.

I have a 2006 Cayenne Turbo. Over the weekend, my check engine light came on. I ran the codes, P0338, P0346, P2a00, P2a03, P0021, P0335, P0606, P0344. I cleared the codes turned off the Ignition, then turned it back on and the starter would not turn, after taking the key out and reinserting itmultiple times, it finally engaged and started normally. I let it idle and almost immediately the check engine light came back on. The car is idling fine, I reved the engine and it reved smoothly no miss no hesitation nothing. I checked the codes again and this time they were P0338, & P0346. I again cleared the codes. Turned the ignition off, then back on and again the starter would not engage. I turned the ignition back off and back on and still nothing. I wiggled the key then the starter engaged and started right up. I decided to take it for a drive and see what happened. I ran down the highway no issue with acceleration, no missing no nothing. As I was returning home, I made a left hand turn and the message, "PSM Failure" came up and at this point the car would not accelerate. I pulled into a gas station and as soon as I stopped, the accelerator came back. I drove back home and checked the codes again, this time they were P0606, P0338, P0346, P2A00, P2A03, P2251, p1550, P1266, P0335. I'm thinking this is an issue with the ignition switch. What are your thoughts?

I've just completed the 2k mile break in for my 2018 718 Cayman. It took 9 months to get it as I special ordered it in Oslo Blue with Agate Gray interior. Now the real fun begins.

987_RDC, this code has nothing to do with the seatbelt issue. This code is for a hot lead shorting to ground with in the steering wheel airbag circuit. I have the test procedures from Alldata, I just needed to know how to duplicate the box the dealers plug in in place of the airbag so that I can go through the test procedures. That's the info Richard provided above.

Thanks Richard, that is very helpful information.

Okay, after replacing the ignition switch airbag light was still on. I connected Durametric and it still showed the green dot with check mark and no codes. I went ahead and clicked reset and the Airbag light went off. Driving to work the next morning it came back on. Durametric still shows no fault codes. I took the car to my independent guy to replace the clutch and he used his system to check and found "code #4" in the airbag fault memory, "Short to Ground in Drivers airbag circuit" . According to ALLDATA you have to attach "test tool # 9516" in place of the drivers airbag in order to trace the short. What does this box do and can it be replicated? Or, will I need to go to the dealer to search for this short?

Thank JFP. That's the way I was leaning also. I replaced the switch a few months ago but as you stated it's a known common problem and a cheap place to start.

In my 2000 996 C2 while driving to work today I hit a bump and my airbag light came on. Assuming it was the typical seat belt ground issue, I plugged in my Durametric and went to the airbag fault codes. It shows a green check mark and no fault codes. I went ahead and selected reset codes anyway. The light went off for a few seconds then came right back on. I rescanned and still no codes. I turned the ignition off and all of the lights went out on the dash then the airbag light came back on. When I take the key out the airbag light goes off. When I put the key back in and turn the ignition on, the airbag light flashes off then stays on again even when the key is turned off. Any ideas?

Thanks for the reply Navtech and Navteq are one in the same. They changed their name from Navigation Technologies (Navtech) to Navteq when they went public in 2004. For the trivia buffs, they are now owned by Nokia. The buyout by Nokia closed last fall and that seems to be when they stopped helping Porsche owners all together.

I'm hoping someone can help me. I have recently purchased a 2000 996 C2 with PCM. The car was from California and the previous owner only had disc 1 CA/NV. I live in MO so I need disc 3. I contacted my local dealer and he is unable to get the disc. I contacted NavTech and like others, I was told sorry they no longer support Porsche and do not have any NOS disc they can provide. I contacted PCNA and the girl I spoke with was very nice and tried to find a set of disc's for me but was unsuccessful. I read a post some where that someone had their MY 2000 firmware updated to be able to use the last set of disc’s issued for PCM 1, the 2003.1 disc (PCM 1 7 disc set). I was able to find a 2003.1 disc on e-bay and my dealer thought they would be able to flash my firmware but they didn't have the firmware upgrade disc and have been unable to get a copy through PCNA. So, does anyone have a set of 2001.1 disc's that they would be willing to part with or copy for me? Here is the information from my PCM: PCM SOFTWARE: PCM/IDIS V5.44 NAVIGATION SOFTWARE: VER.POIE612C DATABASE: dca1/18602621 The disc I have that reads and boots is a 2001-1 Thanks, Dan

I wanted to give everyone an update. I've just turned 100k on what was suppose to be a blown engine. The SeaFoam did the trick for me. I've had no other issues with my engine. 6,000 miles after I was told I needed a new engine and it's still running strong. No CEL faults and after 100k My gas milage has only dropped 1 mile per gallon (27.2) during normal highway driving. Even on a 2 hour spirited drive through the twisty backroads this past weekend, I averaged 24.9 mpg's. Dan

Glyn, Thanks for your thoughts. I had the same thought over the weekend re carbon blocking one of the valve from fully closing. The Boxster is my daily driver and I spend 1.5 to 2 hours per day sitting in traffic. I have not gone out and opened the car up is several months so it's very plausible that there would be some carbon on the valves and or pistons. The dealer did check the coil packs and they were fine. There had been no other signs of engine issues. I do get the occasional puff of smoke on startup after the car has sat over night, which is not uncommon for a boxer type engine. I picked the car up from the dealer Friday evening and drove it home, in traffic, with no problems other then power loss. I’ll report back once I have time to further investigate. Dan

Yes, that is installed.

Thanks Mike. I have tried a few of these already. I'll try the others you've listed tomorrow. Dan

Well it finally happened after 94,000 basically trouble free miles from my 99 Boxster, I’ve had my first major problem and it’s a biggie. I was driving to work Monday, sitting at a stoplight when my check engine light flashed several times then stayed on. When I pulled away from the light, the engine was missing and had a loss of power. I was only a couple of miles from my local dealer so I drove into the service bay. The initial thought of the service tech was that there was a vacuum leak since the car was not knocking, smoking or anything. My first thought was that a coil pack had gone bad. Neither of which I would consider a major problem. I left the car so that they could diagnose it. They called me yesterday and said that it was showing a misfire on the #6 cylinder. They wanted to do a compression check next to see what was up. The good news was that the #6 cylinder held great compression the bad news was that #5 did not. All other cylinders are fine. That’s right the computer was indicating a problem on #6 when the problem was actually on #5. They did a leak down check and determined that the air was pushing into the exhaust. At this point they’re not sure if the problem is a bad ring, bent valve, bent rod or crank. Not sure how this would have occurred since the car was idling when it happened. They did verify that my block is not one of the ones that were sleeved from the factory. Now comes my dilemma, they’re telling me it will be a minimum of $9,000 to rebuild the engine or $14,000 for a factory crate motor. I’m not sure if I want to spend that on the car. I would like to find a good used motor as a replacement. Does anyone know of a good 2.5 non-egas motor for a reasonable price? Thanks, Dan

I don't think the problem your having would be with the top micro switches because the windows are going all the way down. The first switch, when activated, only drops the windows far enough to allow the top to open. My thought would be that you have a short in the switch in your drivers door. The key lock in the door has a switch that allows you to raise of lowwer the windows from outside the car. If you turn the key counter-clockwise to unlock the doors and hold it a few seconds, the windows will go down. If you turn the key clockwise to lock the doors and hold it a few seconds the windows will go up. That's the switch I would check out. I think that by inserting somthing into the latch your over riding the command sent by the door switch causing the windows to stop. Kind of like if you press the window switch once to start the auto down then press it again and the window stops. Dan

Velryba, The part in your picture is an adjustment for the clam shell. If you press it together, it's taller so the front edges of the clam shell will be lifted. You use these to level the front corners of the clam shell so that they are even with the body of the car when the clam shell is closed. Your issue sounds like it could be a combination of thing. 1. Get the drains cleared. The standing water could cause all kinds of electrical shorts, not to mention rust and corrosion. 2. Replace the relays. Re. the rattling heat shield, make sure it's the heat shield and not one of the plates inside the muffler. I had a technician tell me a horror story of a customer who had one of the plates inside the muffler come loose and block off the exhaust causing the car to die every time the exhaust pressure was high. Dan

That is great news!!! I'll have to add that to my check list. Dan

It's one relay but it's the big one that has 2 sets of pins. It typically black with a white or blue dot on it. I don't have a photo handy or I'd post it for you.

That is correct. It's a single switch in the latch on the wind screen and it controls both windows for the top release. If the drivers window drops when you lift the door handle but not when you release the top and the passengers window drops correctly when the top is released, my guess would be that there is a loss in the wire between the windshild microswitch and the drivers door. Either a short or loose connector. It may also be a bad relay. The easiest way to test the relay is to swap it with a relay from a friends car and see it that takes care of the issue. If that doesn't take care of it I would try removing the drivers door panel and checking the connectors.

Velryba, you didn't mention what year your car is. The part number for a 97 to 99 Boxster is 986 613 795 02 not sure of the part number for 2000 or newer. You also mentioned that it's the drivers window that is not dropping. Does the passenger side window drop when the top is released? Does the drivers window drop when you lift the door handle? Dan

Is your handbrake light on when the brake lever is pulled? If not you need to check that sensor. It will prevent the top from moving also.

To get to the switch you will need to remove the latch plate from the center of the windshield. To do this remove the sensor "eyes" by gently prying them off with your finger nail or a small flat screw driver. There will be a torx bolt inside each. Remove them then carfully lower the latch plate so that you can get to the wires for the switch and for the light. Remove the wires and then the latch plate is free. There are 2 retaining clips that hold the switch to the back of the latch plate. Use a pair of needle nose pliers and gently remove them. If your careful they can be reused. You will just need to flatten out the cross sections in the center of the clips. If you do break them I beleive the part number is 999 507 534 02, atleast it is for my 99, and they are not expensive.

I wanted to share the problem I've had for the last several months and the resolution I finally found today. Like a lot of 986 owners, I've been having an intermittent problem where my top will not go down. The problem seemed to revolve around the temperature. I live in St Louis where the temperatures are frequently over 100 F in July and August. What I was able to do is to point the AC vents up so that they were directed to the latch assembly. After 10 to 15 min. of driving, I could pull over and the top would go down normally. I finally had time today to pull the switches and see what was going on. I used a multi-meter to test the continuity of the switches. I knew the swich that controls the drop of the windows (the one on the left side of the assembly with the large plunger that extends out when the latch is opem) was fine. The windows always drop immediately when the top is unlatched. I suspected that the switch on the right (the one that activates the top relay) was bad or sticking. Visually, the switch looked to be woking fine the pin operated smoothly. I tested the terminals on the switch itself and it showed that the switch was working fine. I then tested it on the lead that run across the back of the assembly to the plug. There was continuity there also. I did notice some corrosion around the solder joints were the leads attach to the plug. While cleaning the corrosion, I noticed that one of the leads had broken free of the solder. What was happening is that when the lead would get hot, it would curl slightly lifting off the terminal. When it would cool down, it would uncurl and come in contact with the terminal allowing the connection to be made and the top to operate. I cleaned the corrosion and resoldered the lead (the white arrow in the picture points to the contact I had to resolder. I checked for continuity at the plug and I had connection. I reinstalled the switch and the latch catch and everything is working normally again. I hope this helps someonelse.

It's not part of the factory hands free kit. The factory option plays through the cars speakers. The speaker is the type that would have been installed by a cellular dealer. There would have been a charging cradle mounted somewhere near the center console and a transceiver mounted under one of the seats. Most likely the previous owner would have taken everything else and just forgot the speaker. These kit's didn't work well in convertibles and you would need one compatible with your phone. If you have a bluetooth headset, I would stick with it. You can hear okay with them with the top down. I usually put the windows up, if I need to use the phone, to help cut down on wind noise. Most of the blue tooth headsets have good noise cancellation.