Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

abbiy

Contributing Members
  • Posts

    12
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by abbiy

  1. Phillip, Did you get this problem fixed?. I have the same problem, so I want to know if the problem was fixed by activating the ABS using PST2 or dealer tool. Thanks Abbiy:thankyou:
  2. If these problems started immediately after replacing the battery, you might turn the radio off, put the windows down, open the front trunk, and disconnect the battery for a few minutes, then reconnect the battery. If the radio was on when you connect the battery, it might have messed up the "handshake" between the radio, the amp, and the rest of the car.
  3. I would trouble shoot the stereo if i was you, check the current draw on the battery after the car has been turned off, key removed, trunk open,trunk light disconnected and left for at 10 mins for the system to shut down complete. My stereo was drawing 100 milliamps and i killed 2 original Porsche batteries, i even replaced the ignition switch thinking that it kept my stereo on. I removed my stereo and sent it to Borsch to get repaired but they wanted $600 AU so i got one on Ebay for $150 US, face plate was a bit rough but used my original instead. All good. :cheers:
  4. Hi Wvicary, PK was right that MC pushrod cannot be adjusted. the pedal can be adjusted with the procedure in the link that was suggest to me. I tested my booster with a Mighty Vac (genuine made in USA) and i put 20Hg into it, it held no problems. I then put my foot on the pedal and it just fell 4 Hg which according to the Mighty Vac instructions it should not fall more than 6 Hg each push of the pedal. I ended up installing the my original MC back on and problem still exists ....so now i am going back to the basics and replace the front brake pads which looks low and start rebuilding my calipers front ones first which may have rust in them etc. I will let everyone know how i managed to cure this problem. Thanks everyone. Abbiy. :)
  5. Hi Wvicary, Appreciate your reply. What test can i do to check the booster apart form the ones i have done already. How do i check for contamination ... how can i tell booster has water or crap in it. I hate pulling things apart and finding nothing wrong....especially on a Porsche!. One thing i noticed though, while i was bleeding the system i left to have lunch and when i came back i noticed some of the nipples were weeping brake fluid at their base, so i removed all of them one by one and cleaned the seats on the nipple and the caliper, some seats were rusty due to Boxster done only 53,000 Klm's since 2002. Could air still be getting through at these points/seats :( ?.
  6. When i drive the car and do quick stop its perfectly ok ie normal. Last nite i removed the vacuum line and blew through one way and could not the other. I did some other tests: 1) I pumped the pedal a couple of times ( engine off), with my foot on the pedal with slight pressure, i started the engine, the pedal goes down slight. 2) With my foot on the pedal, i turned the engine off, pedal does not move anywhere ie neither up or down. If the piston in the MC is not coming back fully, partially or completely blocking one inlet port of the MC from the reservoir, will this cause the pedal to sink (rapid) part of the travel?. Does this sound logical?. I appreciate the feed back from everyone. :)
  7. Hi PK, That link mentioned by Maurice looks like it can be done. what you think?. This brake problem is pissing me off!. I can stiil drive the Boxster and the pedal is fine as long as i stomp on it. But if i ease into it with light pressure it sinks half way to normal. I am sick of trying to bleed the system and may liters of brake fluid. Now i just connect a 3 m clear tube form the nipples direct to the MC reservoir and just keep pumping the pedal but i do not see any air going through, thus my theory to adjust MC push rod. Abdul.
  8. [Go to this link: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ic=15633&hl , and take a look at the third photo in post #10. Does that help? Regards, Maurice. Hi Maurice, Thats it !. That looks like adjuster i am sure. My problem started when i suspected my MC sinking to the first stage of the MC. I replaced the MC which i purchased form the US through Pelican. After installation i bleed the system with Motive Power bleeder, again purchased form the US thorugh Pelican. I have two problems now!. If i stomp hard on the pedal and hold, it sinks very very slowly (air in the system) but if push very lightly, the pedal sinks rapidly to first stage, so last night i loosen the two long bolts just to get the booster and MC away slightly and problem seems to improve!. The rapid sinking does not happen when light pressure is put to the pedal. That's when i figured i need to adjust the push rod. Sounds fair. Abbiy.
  9. Hi to all, I just fitted a new brake master cylinder in my Boxster MY02. I need to adjust the brake master cylinder push rod. I can see a rubber boot beside the battery in between the brake booster and firewall, do i need to take this boot off/push back to reveal the pushrod inside?. I cannot see any adjustments below where the pedal rod that goes into the fire wall. Can anyone please provide directions to the adjust the push rod. Thank you for your help. Abbiy. ;)
  10. I have the same problem in my Boxster where i removed my dead CDR 220 and installed a "Blaupunkt Bremen MP74 US". I paid $600.00 AU for this unit and the salesman said i would just have plug n play!. What the?. Now i have a Prosche that i can not drive because i can not lock it. Every time i lock my Boxster i get a "beep" (1) indicating i left something unattended. After a while the alarm sets off, it can be after an hour or a couple of days. My CRD 220 died after killing two Porsche Batteries because the unit was drawing 100 milliamps while the car was locked. I gave up on the Porsche battery and installed a maintenance free Century. Sent my CDR 220 to Becker for repairs....they quote was $600.00AU....what the! ....paid $160.00AU just to get it back un- repaired. What can i say about Becker or the head units they make.....you make up your mind. Thanks Abbiy.
  11. I think you are right! Good stuff i will try and buy a that tool and i think i will be able to remove this decoupler with taking the alternator off!.Thanks for that ....i will keep you informed....abbiy from Brisbane , Australia.
  12. Has anyone ever replaced a decoupler pulley on the alternator for a 986 Boxster 2002. I just replaced the VR on my alternator. It had this hissing noise when i backed off the RPM, before i pulled the alternator out. Had it checked out by auto electrician to see why it was not charging. The VR was replaced, bearings seemed fine but hissing noise is still there!. All the other pulleys are fine...none have play or roughness or any type of movement. The noise is coming out form the alternator pully. If someone has replaced this pulley....could you please tell me how it is done...and what to look out for. Do i need to take the alternator out again? . When i remove the black plastic cover on the pulley i can see a spline with another splined grub screw in the centre. I have a TORX bit to fit the centre screw. Car has done 52,000 Kms. Thanks for any info.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.