the head

This was a symptom of the battery going out on mine.

Wanted to post a follow-up. I had a piece of impeller blade make it to the one-way valve and lodge it open. This valve is at the end of the rubber hose the pump pushes the air through. It bolts to the back of the block and I can say with certainty that you need to come in from under the car to get to those two bolts with a long extension (forget what size e-torx it was). There is a gasket, but it didn't tear luckily. So make sure you check the hose otherwise you'll get exhaust backflowing up into a plastic pump...

Did this earlier today. I also bought the power bleeder (the one with the gauge on the tank) and that was a big help since I was doing this on my own.Rear lines are easy. The fronts aren't quite so friendly. I recommend going at those with patience or a wad of $1 bills for a cuss jar. There are two brackets that are bolted to the rear side of the control arm (the vertical piece going to the upper ball joint) that must be removed. One holds one end of the line and is easy enough to remove along with the pad wear sensor plug so you can move it around a little. The upper one required vise grips to remove since there is very little room to get the right torx head on it (I only have sockets and no room even with a 1/4" drive). I replaced the upper bolt with a regular bolt so a 10mm wrench would fit it. You must fasten the end of the hose at this point first before doing the upper connection along the body. On the first side I also completely removed the inner fender (mud guard) in the wheel well to get good clearance to the fittings. On the other side I only partially unbolted it to get there. It's much easier the second time on the front.But the lines fit quite well. Not sure if the pedal feel improved a whole lot because my brake fluid is probably 4 years old or something. It's nice that the ATE fluid is blue. If you are careful, 1 liter of brake fluid is probably enough but I wanted a good flush in mine since it's been a while.No messages, special "resets", or sensor calibrations are necessary, once you're done you just drive. Sorry for the lack of pics but I was kinda crunched for time.

I should add the power windows for the one-touch "up" function also has to be reset, which is in the owner's manual. But one check engine light was legitimate, P0492. As it turns out the secondary air injection pump impeller came apart. I posted an update on another thread for that carnage. But all the other codes and messages I was having were related to the battery so I feel that's still a great indicator that the battery needs to be replaced.

Since there is a thread already I'll add to it. Same P0492 code. Did the troubeshooting and found the bad fuse and while I was at it decided to check the relay and then the pump itself since there is another thread describing the impeller failure in the unit itself. Lo and behold that's my issue. I took some pics of the carnage, but also one of the good blower with the cover off to you can see what it's supposed to look like. I also had to pick pieces out of the hose itself leading to the valve behind the engine block. The cover is held on by the single screw so it's easy to inspect while still fully installed. So if anyone runs into this in the future, you can check the pump and the fuse quickly before moving through the rest of the procedure.

Well drug it out until now and after replacing the battery all is good. Today I actually got a check engine light and found a couple of other faults that I knew weren't legitimate. Cleared with the Durametric, then installed the battery. One surprise was the fact I had to re-calibrate the steering angle sensor (778 message) after the install and found that on another thread. Went with an Autozone Gold battery in case anyone was wondering. It is a little shorter than the stock battery so I used some foam packing laying around to make up the 1.5" or so in the battery case. The main holder bracket works just fine.

This was also a big help after just replacing the battery.

Getting a suspension workshop on the screen when it's running the starter now. Put the scangauge on it and the voltage is about 11.5 volts with the key on, engine off and drops down to about 8.5v when the starter is turning over. Picks up to 13.6v when running. Thinking battery now since I've owned it for about 4 years now, bought CPO, and it's on the same battery as when I bought it.

Oddly enough this morning it worked fine on my initial trip. After I stopped and got back in, the message came back on again but at least this time the screen on the dash menu came up, even if it was reading all -- for the pressure values.

I'm getting a message that states the TPMS is inactive on the dash and the red tire light comes on. This happened a couple of times and then there was one instance when the red tire light was off but going through the vehicle menu, the screen with the tire pressuresis gone. And you could not select tires as an option off the menu page. This morning I get in and the error light returned. I've had a sensor die and it's just a bad pressure reading, but I've never had the screen go away where I couldn't even look it up. I need to hook up the Durametric, but was curious if anyone had this symptom before.

Did this today, the stock one was totally blown, no pressure at all. I didn't have to pry the clips open for install - both ends just snapped right on to the ball ends with little effort.

Instructions are pretty good for this one - I replaced mine today. I didn't remove the grab rails from the rear - the headliner has enough room with the D-pillars removed to access the covers and the far end connecting point for the struts.

Tackled this today. I only removed the airbox on the left (driver's) side. So on steps 7, 12, and 15 this was the only side that I removed. This skipped steps 8-11 and 16. I used a gasket pick to unlock the connector on step 18 for line 2 (the smaller one). I tried to pinch it by hand but could never get it loose, the pick worked quite easily but I was careful. The second larger line was easier to remove by hand. I skipped sep 19 since there are pics of the routing. On the install, I managed to get the belt in from the driver's side with the MAF removed; there was enough room to get it in there. I also loosened the dipstick tube (removed the bolt) from the passenger head. I did use a pry bar to gently push the belt onto the bottom pulleys. I just needed something long and slender to push the "loops". If you don't have small hands or something to help get the belt over the pulleys on the bottom then I would recommend removing the bottom enginer cover to help access those. It took me a little over an hour and I'm pretty handy working on cars. As mentioned above, take your time to not break the plastic hoses. My CTT is 9 years old with about 82k miles on it and I've snapped a couple over the years.

Awesome! I'm at 81,600 and loving my 04 as well.

I have no issues with the self locking once it's moving. The door in question is the driver's side rear and it's a US model. But here's more data: I rolled down the driver's window and tried both the keyless remote and the door lock switch on the driver's door (interior). Neither lock it. I popped the little rubber grommet out of the door (rear) on the inside and it locks/unlocks manually with no issues. Also, the remote and the driver's switch will always unlock it (if I lock it manually first). So I'm thinking either a frayed wire (because it works sometimes) or the controller on the lock mechanism/solenoid is going bad.

I've done some searches but can't seem to find anything similar. One of my rear doors will not lock all of the time with the key fob. It will always activate the alarm with the usual flashing lights to show it is armed, but you can walk right up and tug on the handle and it opens right up. Other times it actually locks. There are times when I am driving, I pull away from a stop, and I can hear the door lock at about 8 mph or so (same door with issue). So I'm not sure if the actuator is going out, or if there is something screwy with a control module. I can plug in the Durametric but get no faults. Anyone experience something similar?

Just oiled mine as well. Months ago it started squealing at certain speeds. Finally, in hot weather recently, it would make noises and eventually shut down. With as much carbon as there was on mine, I think the brushes are probably wearing.

Yes - basically the inner part was torn from the outer rubber ring. It's really only solid in two places - the rubber is not a complete donut. I'll try to snap a pic.

Just wanted to post a few observations after doing my own 80k maintenance. I posted on another thread the small gray o-rings that sat down in the spark plug access holes. I didn't replace them, but did make sure all the little pieces were out of there (once I knew they existed). I managed to save two. They are some kind of additional seal but most broke when I pulled the coils out. Seeing that the coils seal quite well at the top, I didn't worry about it. I did replace the coil sticks as well, but this may not have been needed. The top engine mount or torque arm had a bad bushing on the chassis side. I found that when moving it out of the way of the valve cover to get to the spark plug. I had to order it after the fact, but I will mention that replacement of that part considerably helped with engine vibration at idle. Significantly more than replacing the plugs and coils did. The vibration was one of the reasons I replaced the coils this time around, but it was really this mount. My front diff whine went away with an oil change. I went with a synthetic Motul since I've used their products with great success racing motorcycles. I know it was the diff since I managed to change the oil in the transfer case (Royal Purple here) a week earlier. Interesting to note is that the front diff oil was black and worn. The rear diff oil actually looked pretty good. It wasn't black and didn't feel like water. I think this is earlier than recommended by Porsche to do it now, but I think it helped. Check your belt like it states to. I took a flashlight and looked from both the top and bottom while changing the oil and it is very cracked. I don't know if this is the original belt but I've had the thing for roughly 40k miles and I never changed it. So with a new one coming in, I'll do what I usually do with the old one - put it somewhere in the vehicle as a spare. Other than this, things went as expected. No issues changing the HVAC filter and I swapped my EVOMS intakes out to the stock air boxes for the time being. My stock air filters are almost new. And the Durametric reset the service light.

However, check it to see of the rubber bushings are still good. I found the one on the chassis side to be bad when recently replacing plugs.

Just did plugs and coils on my 04 this weekend. FYI, the coils are now .09 on the last digits for the coil part number so apparently they are still ever-evolving. One thing I came across that I haven't seen mentioned (maybe I didn't look hard enough) are some small o-ring seals that sit on the small casting lip on the lower cylinder head piece inside the hole for the plug. I had already replaced two plugs before I saw them in pieces. I was only able to save two of them. I don't think it's a big deal due to the fact the coils seal very well on the valve cover, but just thought I'd post it in case anyone was wondering. 80k miles and running great!

Beginning to think it might be a battery problem. After it sat for a couple of days of not starting I got in and the TPMS system said it was offline, along with the usual Nav error. It went away after that day. Two days ago, I got a TPMS message on a rear wheel. Checked it and while it looked fine, I added a couple of psi to both rear wheels (to 43psi). Got in this morning and the TPMS said the same wheel was low, checked it and pressure hasn't dropped and the TPMS menu says it has 40 psi. Got to my first morning destination and the TPMS light was off, but then decided to do the 1-4-8 reset on the way to the second place and lo and behold the nav was working again after that. I'm wondering if the battery voltage is dropping after it starts (I have the one battery system - no rear battery). If it shows the nav error later today after sitting in the parking lot, I'm wondering if that's where I need to be looking.

I don't have the phone, but I'll check the connections then. Thanks for the feedback!

Getting a code 62 Level Control - short to ground, no signal/communication My system seems to be working normally - maybe this is a code that was just in the memory? I haven't gotten any kind of error message, ever, on the suspension.

Having an off problem and despite searching I can't find what mine is doing (similar). I can turn on the key - either with or without the engine running, and after a few seconds I get an error message on the screen that says "System Error: Navigation System Not Available". I can put the nav disk in and out without a problem and have tried starting without the disk inserted as well with the same result. Everything else works - radio, no amp messages or anything. I do have a Dension module installed but in over a year it hasn't given me any issues. I plugged in the Durametric and no codes for that - did get another one for leveling that I'll go into on another thread. I haven't made any changes to anything when this started out of the blue. I have also tried the master reset to no avail. Ideas?