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ciaka last won the day on August 18 2020

ciaka had the most liked content!

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About ciaka

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    TX - Best Country in the World
  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    Porsche Cayenne
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    Who knows

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  1. Agree. What I love about my ptt (besides handling, power, braking, interior finish), is the way I can control tire spin with throttle. Very predictable and repeatable. You can go into a corner, scrub speed before hand, and accelerate into the curve while controlling the spin. That's the kind of control which puts a huge grin on my mug.
  2. Good to see they responded well. Not changing gears, unable to go to drive gear, car not moving while in gear, are all symptoms of the pdk gear shift sensors failure. Hope you have your car working well asap.
  3. I resolved my issue bu replacing gear shift sensors in pdk. I made detailed diy on it too. Should be on this forum. Not too difficult, but long to replace. Saves you thousands though.
  4. Forgot to make final update. The car is up and running well. To summarize, had to replace multiple parts: broken plastic pipes that the splintered serpentine belt broke (3 of them by radiator) Repair coolant leak at back of engine (where the coolant vent Y line connects to the rubber hose) Replace power steering pulley (cracked when I installed replacement belt, you guessed it, ruined the belt too) Belt tensioner Belt tentioner pulley Replace serpentine belt itself, twice (first replacement split once power steering pulley broke Replaced valve c
  5. OK. Got more work on the car. The oil cooler line (hose with plastic T that goes into the engine block on passenger side), is leaking. Got the plastic T out and it is cracked along the T junctions both lower and upper, PLUS the plastic that goes into the engine with a small washer, is broken as well. When i took the plastic piece out, the o ring with rest of the plastic remained in the engine. Had to dig out with small pry 90 degree tool. So now for sure have to order the oil cooler line. Unfortunately the plastic T does not come separately and you have to get the entire coole
  6. Got time to work on car today. Some new parts came in Friday (tension roller and tension shock). New tensioner in. New tensioner roller in. All pulleys checked and cleaned. Done. New pipe, #15, in. Was going to start putting together, wanted to do pressure test on coolant. Discovered the oil cooler line at the T connector is leaking very slowly (very slow leak, I assume plastic T is crap now. So off I go buy the line now and wait some more. The Coolant vent line for engine banks has not arrived yet, so doing this slowly. Guess good thing coronavirus thing still going on. Talk about
  7. Found out that the line was broken at the point labeled #1 in blue in diagram. That part of line between #1 and #2, is hard plastic, and the ending at #1 goes onto another plastic piece, looks like it is hot pressed onto it. When belt slid off, it took that line out, so that the connection at #1 slipped of the rest of the line, and connection at #2 is still intact, and can be reconnected. However the part at #1 will have to be glued or something. The new piece for that part #5 in diagram, is about $250. I am thinking to get some heater hose that will be just large enough to slip onto th
  8. I had time to work on the car today. Coolant leak: Discovered that because the drive belt broke, water pump stopped spinning, making engine hot and under higher pressure. This resulted in one of the hoses coming out of the coolant tank resevoir (cap), that goes to what I presume is the back of the cooling pipes somewhere, slid off and is now dangling down behind the engine. That is where the coolant is coming from, that hose slid off. Checked water pump visually after removing remains of belt, and there is no evidence of coolant leaking from the pump area, pulley seems solid spinning free
  9. I still have not got the pressure test done. Busy working from home with family being total PITA on everything not comprehending when I work, I work. Period. . Well, maybe this weekend I will reserve for the car. Still have not been able to ID the thinner of the two pipes that are wrapped in silver shield under the valve cover in last pic above. That one is broken too, and cannot locate in parts catalog. Need help on that. Other two pipes from diagram, 14, and 15 arrived. Also need advice on removing the pipes from there without removing whole front bumper and rad. I am sure
  10. I am working from home a lot so little time for car. When belt is out I will post pic of what is left and of pulleys. Few pulleys seem to have rubber in the grooves, like there was tension and the rubber from belt deposited on them (one in particular, others just have bits). Wonder if that is a sign of something. Also, Questions: Can someone help pin point what the part number is for the top of the two horizontal pipes under valve cover in the last pic? The skinnier one? I have been looking in parts catalog but cannot find what it is. Another part that my belt brok
  11. Never too late. I went away for a couple weeks, then had work,then had the coronavirus work stoppage issue, so car took back seat. Now, I have to report I have a case of corona, isolated inside the fridge, and ready to assist with car repair. Picking at it slowly until some parts come in. I have 2 coming, just discovered 3rd plastic hose broken by belt. So once they arrive and I replace I can continue. In mean time planning to remove intake, visually inspect for coolant in valley, see if water pump area bad, although I had a looksie today, and did not look like the pump area was so
  12. My coolant pipes were done about 4 years ago, at which time water pump was changed too. Drive belt was done too, that is about 60k miles I guess. As an update: UPDATE. Been while since touched the car. Was away for more than 2 weeks. Now got the valve cover seals done. Getting to drive belt and leak. Need advice what to remove. 3 different vent lines got broken by belt...all near front of engine, driver side, going from top under valve covers and are wrapped in silver heat protectors. Need to see how I can remove and reinstall mew ones. Also another vent line going from cent
  13. Maybe it would be worth to put car up, drain oil into a new bucket, replug the sensor harness after cleaning, and refil to drive. It is possible connections just stale, but have hard time justifying wiring going bad when it is not in overcurrent situation for long, and not physically damaged. That is why I suspect sensors, very mildly, connection places, not the wiring itself though. Advice, as always very appreciated.
  14. As an update, put the car up, to check PDK fluid level, just to make sure it did not leak out to low level or something. Checking level I found it to be full. I did see slight oil sweating around the rear of the PDK oil pan. After the check, I made sure I torque the pan bolts per FSM. They all appeared to be to spec. I added maybe 1Ftlbs on rear bolts for now. Then I took the car for driving. In normal mode I could not get the error to come up, but in sport mode, after PDK was at temp, I did get the same transmission fault error (stopped at a store, went in to buy something, came back out,
  15. Gathering some information for PDK transmission fault. Last week son drove PTT to store, when came out said reversed out of park spot, and when shifted into drive it was acting as in neutral. Called me. Told him to turn car off, he did. Restarted and car drove just fine even though transmission fault still stayed on. I scanned car after he returned, got errors all over the place (99% of them are because car was in sport mode and sport+ pasm). So most of these were tripped since PDK got fault so car was not allowed to have the sport modes. Anyway, I scanned and the two errors that I saw we
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