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About Doohan

  • Birthday 11/23/1976

Profile Information

  • Gender

Profile Fields

  • From
    USA, San Jose (CA)
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    Cayenne S 2006
    Mercedes SL500
  • Future cars
    Tesla P100
    Bentley Continental GT
  • Former cars
    Porsche 996 C4 2000
    Audi A5 3.0 quattro 2007
    Mercedes ML320 2001
    Land Rover Defender TD5 2003
    Land Rover Defender TDI 1995
    Porsche 911 964 Carrera 2 1989
    Mcc Smart Passion 451 2010
    Mcc Smart Passion cdi 2008
    Mcc Smart Passion 700 2004

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Community Answers

  1. I will give it another try... I've already rebuilt the top latch that was misaligned by 3 notch in the positioning gear, I will move it of another notch to try to match the original synch. If that works I'll have to deal with the dead (inaktiv!) side flaps, although they are not as expensive as the rest.
  2. Thanks Loren, I tried several times but it always get stuck at the same position, with the half top portion vertical. The screenshot above is what is left in the fault memory...
  3. I purchased the repair kit for the top tonneau clamshell lid motor 996-561-673-00. Replaced the shaft and set the potentiometer at 6.2 K Ohms before re-installing. Now I have other problems:
  4. I cannot figure out how the groove part could get traction over the rounded metal surface, is there some kind of friction required? Shall I overtight the motor to the black assembly?
  5. Hi folks, Can someone please explain to me how the top tonneau clamshell lid motor (Fig.1) engages with the unlatching cords mechanism (Fig.3)? I already changed two motors, replaced the inner rod with the plastic potentiometer gear and I still can't properly operate the clamshell cover. If you look at the motor (Fig.2), only the outer ring with the small grooves will rotate but it will not engage with the metal part of the unlatching mechanism (Fig.3) Am I missing something? I can ear the motor working when I operate the top but it doesn't unlatch or move if I don't do it manually. I only have a Time Out error on PIWIS and cannot complete the calibration, or even worse one time the soft top tried to fold over the closed clamshell cover... Thanks for your help!
  6. It sounds it may be the ABS pump trying to compensate. A complete braking fluid flush should help.
  7. In my case the noise is coming from the brake pads moving inside the brake calipers, it started right after I replaced my old pads with new Bosch pads that I got on Amazon.
  8. Repacked with some new CV joint molybdenum grease (not too much) and protected with two coats of high temp spray paint.
  9. Came back to SJ with the aftermarket shaft, tested 'till 95 mph no vibrations whatsoever.. Now let's have some fun and try to fix that under engineered shaft...
  10. Wow, that's an awesome fix! Thanks! BTW I ended up getting the cheap cardan from Amazon, it will be installed tomorrow by a local shop. I'll tie up the old one on my roof and make it back to San Jose and if the new part gives me any problem, well it's Amazon Prime... At least I'll have the option to fix (or improve) the old one on my bench with Jimi's trick!
  11. Hi folks, I was driving from SF to LA when the infamous rubber holding the central bearing of my drive shaft aka cardan shaft got destroyed... Can someone please recommend and indy that can change my drive shaft in West Hollywood? This is something I could do at home in my shop but since I'm too far I was thinking about getting this: https://www.amazon.com/Propeller-Porsche-Cayenne-Touareg-7L6521102/dp/B019W5LLQ0/ref=pd_sbs_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B019W5LLQ0&pd_rd_r=DVEM8FXKG68HJSM3P5HB&pd_rd_w=4rdsB&pd_rd_wg=amEuq&psc=1&refRID=DVEM8FXKG68HJSM3P5HB And have any mechanic I can find on the street to replace my broken one, but the shipping time will be too long. Or just go to LA dismantler (crossing my finger) and ask them to replace mine with what they have. What you suggest? Thanks!!
  12. If the tranny is switching to the P position, there is nothing wrong with the cable. It could be something with the key ignition block, when I put in Park I can feel some mechanical engagement/disengagement in the key ignition assembly. So it may be a simple lack of lubricant in that part.
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