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FrontEngineWaterCooled

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    1989 Porsche 944

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  1. no Edit: Yes. After discussion with Ian at 944 Online, he suggested that it's a hot spot caused by a bad injector. Given the location of the hole, that seems to make sense. I've never encountered this phenomenon and although I didn't do it, I know I should take steps to avoid it. New block is on the way and I will be busy for awhile accumulating the necessary rebuild parts: Rings, bearings, etc in order to properly do a rebuild so I don't have to go in and do it again in a few month's time. Thanks to everyone who contributed.
  2. I don't have all the answers but, you can disconnect the electrical connector to the light mechanism motor. It should be easily accessible on the top of the motor in a rubber shroud. Disconnect that. Then, on the big cylindrical part, which is the motor proper, it should have a rubber boot that covers it entirely. Once removed, you will find a knurled, flat knob that will allow you to raise and lower the headlights manually. This thoughtful feature goes back to the 924 and the Germans familiarity with freezing rain which can lock your headlights down. Naturally, just turning the normal switch on could cause the fuse to blow. It does, however sound like the mechanism is binding somewhere. They should operate smoothly and almost 100% silently. No scraping, or grinding sounds. Use the manual method to check that. The mountings for the headlight bearings are well hidden, but the inboard ones can be most easily gotten to first. They are held in place by three screws each and when loose or jarred out of position, can cause the headlights to malfunction or even lock up. The wire frying sounds like someone put the wrong rating fuse in the box. If the headlights bind up, it's better to blow the fuse than that motor. The manual knob takes several turns to get a noticeable movement from the headlight eyelids. Be patient. HTH
  3. I have a 1989 2.7L 944 bone stock that has a curious disorder. There is a "burn-through" in the top of the #4 cylinder wall. Got the car this way. However, I am seeking a new block for the car and am I correct in assuming any 2.7 or 3.0 944, 944S2, 968 block should work? The head is A-OK fine. (and rather rare, I am led to understand) I understand the bore for the 2.7 to be 104mm vs. 100 for the 2.5. I also understand that the 944S2 is a 3L because of a different crankshaft(ie: stroked) while the stock 2.7 had the same crank as the 2.5 with the larger pistons. Thus, I am ASSUMING.....(uh-oh) that a bare block from 1989/90/91 etc should satisfy my needs as concerns using my existing parts for engine build-up. Is this correct? I have looked all over and it seems to be the case but thought I'd run it by some of you before making a decision to buy the bare block. I may have found one but won't know until tomorrow. Any input is most welcome. Thanks
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