clubhead

Thanks Toolpants. And all along, I thought it was within the cabin :)

How does one access the DME? I'm intending to remove mine while the car is being painted to get it re-programmed by the likes of GIAC or DMS...

I've seen some brand new ones in ebay going for about $1k. That's pretty reasonable in my opinion. Porsche does not state any bhp gains for the Tequipment Sports Exhaust. My guess is that it only serves to have a better sound...

You can get it from Mid America but they're asking $349.99 for it, ouch!

I know this thread is > 7 months old but I'm experiencing exactly the same symtoms as you... bhp/torque drop with the Evo intake kit. Some suggested a faulty MAF. Check your PM :) My questions are : 1) Did you manage to locate a universal Blitz filter that's small enough to replace the one supplied by EVO? The ones I saw are all much bigger. 2) Can the dealership diagnose a faulty MAF without the usual CEL and hunting idle symtoms? I'm inclined to replace the MAF but the price the local dealership is charging ($700 w/o labour) puts me off...

I don't think this kind of ceremic coating is available where I am :( Another better and cheaper way is to wrap the manifold in 'exhaust tape'. This is widely done with turbo cars. Once wrapped up, you can even place your hand (which I've tried) on the manifold with the engine running! I'm sure this offers even better heat insulation than the ceramic coating :) One side effect is the turbo manifold then gets so hot that it may just crack which was what happened to a few of the cars here :(

You're lucky enough to have a dealer for Powerchip in Australia :) Go talk to them and check them out. I wrote to them but got no reply... :(

I doubt Dansk is a poor choice when it comes to exhaust components. If you've read my previous posting on the sports cat, it yielded an increase of up to 5bhp ACROSS the rpm range. The fact that the 2bhp increase only occurs at about 6,700rpm and everything below it suffers bhp drops is bad news.... for me at least. How often does one get to drive at 6,800rpm? :(

Yes, an additional fan was in place to bring the intake temp down to about 45 deg C during the EVO run, similar temp to the run done with the stock airbox. A variance of 10 deg C will result in a drop/increase of 1% of the bhp. I read it somewhere. Remember my run was done WITH aftermarket headers, sports cat and muffler. The runs you mentioned may have retained all the stock exhaust components and thus, yield a diff result.

Check out my post at http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=4073 There is significant resonance at about 2,600rpm. That equates to cruising at about 60mph. Suggest you hear it out yourself on someone else's car before you commit. I suffered power lose generally but I already had other mods like headers and sports cat on. You may get diff results from me if you're retaining the stock headers/cats. I suggest sticking with the Tequipment as that gives a good sound.

Results as follow : Horsepower (at the wheels) Base run with Dansk headers/Dansk Sports Cat/Dansk Sports Muffler : 239.6bhp @ 6,499rpm Run with addon Evo Highflow Intake Kit : 241.6rpm @ 6,606rpm Gain : 2bhp at about 6,500rpm Torque (at the wheels) Base run with Dansk headers/Dansk Sports Cat/Dansk Sports Muffler : 139.1kg/m @ 4,877rpm Run with addon Evo Highflow Intake : 140kg/m @ 4,998rpm Gain : 1kg/m at about 4,900rpm The fuel used for all dyno is 100 Octane as this is available from most pumps locally. The dyno graph is attached. Red is the run with the intake. An air temp probe was installed before/after the change. I'm using deg Celsius over here so resulted in the double digit for deg Fahrenheit after conversion. So it's not that I'm using a super accurate temp sensor A picture of the sensor is attached for reference. Cost me about US$15. The following were noted : Original Stock Intake (Ambient Temp : 89.6 deg F according to in-dash display) Car stationary for 1 min with engine running : - 102.74 to 104.18 (1.43 deg F increase) - 104.54 to 105.44 (0.9 deg F increase) Car stationary for 1 min with engine not running : - 106.34 to 114.26 (7.92 deg F increase) Car in motion at about 55mph for 1 min : - Generally 6.3 deg F above ambient temp if engine was started from cold - Generally 10 deg F above ambient temp if engine was hot when started Evo Highflow Intake (Ambient Temp : 91.4 deg F according to in-dash display) Car stationary for 1 min with engine running : - 105.44 to 121.46 (16.02 deg F increase) - 112.46 to 129.02 (16.56 deg F increase) Car stationary for 1 min with engine not running : - Similar to above Car in motion at about 55mph for 1 min : - Generally 2.7 deg F above ambient temp if engine was started from cold - Generally 5.4 deg F above ambient temp if engine was hot when started If anyone is interested to know how hot the engine bay gets, the temp sensor reads 153 deg F after letting the car sit for about 40 mins. Observations : - bhp was down everywhere except about 2,000rpm and 6,500rpm - bhp drop is significant at 3,000rpm - torque was down bet 2,500 to 4,800rpm and 6,100 to 6,400rpm - Drop in torque is significant at 3,000rpm, about 5kg/m - Air temp increase significant during traffic even with heat shield, 1 deg F vs 16 deg F increase - Air temp generally lower when car is cruising The stock air box is a real PITA to remove. The intake manifold needs to be loosened and even then, pulling the airbox out was no easy task still. Needless to say, I'm unhappy with the overall results. I think the car is still somewhat better compared to a completely stock one but for the money spent till now, the past 2 mods (muffler & intake) have yielded negative results. Some suggested in another posting that my poor results could be due to either a bad MAF or air leakage from loose fitting. I've checked all the hoses and fasteners today and found all to be tight. I doubt a bad MAF as my idling is steady across all rpms. So now, I'm assuming a ECU is necessary to benefit from all this mods. Anyone with comments on GIAC? I'm thinking of taking that route but will need to live without my car for 1 week as I need to send the ECU to a dealer to get it re-programmed

I really doubt this is the case. I think both rear wheels are driven. Else my dyno results (with traction control disabled) would be all screwed up.

You're saying that with the headers, sports cat and muffler, you're currently at 217.2bhp? And with the addition of the Evo intake, you expect to gain 20+bhp to 245bhp? I think that's quite unlikely. But I'll be putting in my Evo intake next week or week after. I'll come out with another report then...

Do you know if the Sports Exhaust is left 'loud' all the time, will low end torque suffer? Surely the bypass valve is for a reason other than sound? I'm figuring if I were to put back my Tequipment, should I bother connecting the vacumn again. It's a small job since I left all the fitting as they were... I'm NOT going to do a dyno again just to verify this...

Just got back from the dyno today. Results as follows : Horsepower (at the wheels) Base run with Dansk headers/Dansk Sports Cat/Tequipment Sports Muffler : 234bhp @ 6,472rpm Run with Dansk headers/Dansk Sports Cat/Dansk Sports Muffler : 239.6bhp @ 6,472rpm Gain : 5.7bhp at about 6,500rpm Torque (at the wheels) Base run with Dansk headers/Dansk Sports Cat/Tequipment Sports Muffler : 138.4kg/m @ 4841rpm Run with Dansk headers/Dansk Sports Cat/Dansk Sports Muffler : 139.5kg/m @ 4927rpm Gain : 1.1kg/m at about 4,900rpm The fuel used for all dyno is 100 Octane as this is available from most pumps locally. Bad news : - Overall torque loss below 4,800rpm. As much as 2kg/m at about 3,200rpm - Overall minor bhp loss below 4,800. About 1bhp at times, no big deal. - Major resonance at 2,500rpm which equates to 60mph at 5th gear (tip). This is cruising speed which can be annoying and probably will be. Good news : - Overall torque and bhp gain above 4,800rpm - Weight savings, see below Points to note : 1) You will require 2 U joints (left and right cat) for the connection between the cat and the muffler. The original connectors can't be used. This can be seen in the 2nd photo. 2) You'll need to re-use the u pipe that connects the cat to the muffler. This can also be seen in the 2nd photo. 3) A bit of wrestling to get the exhaust centered. Will be tough to DIY. I didn't. 4) I forgot to request for torque figures in lb/ft format. So for those who know who to convert, please help. 5) There's some discrepancy bet my last dyno run and the supposedly base line reference run today. For those to noticed, my previous run is supposed to be 231.2bhp and not 234bhp as reflected here. I'll find out when I next visit the shop but will be in 2 week's time. The weights are : Tequipment Muffler : 41.9lbs Dansk Sport Muffler : 26.5lbs I'm told reliably that this is the exhaust that is also sold by Fabspeed and Evo. I don't like the sound. The unique 'howl' produced by the Tequipment sports exhaust is gone, replaced by a somewhat deep growl much like that of a modified Jap import Also, given the gains are mostly in the upper rpm range, normal driving will suffer from lower torque. For those that frequent the track, you'll benefit from it. I go like once in 6 months so..... Overall, I'm not too happy with the results, especially since I paid US$180 to get the thing shipped to me here from US. **** :angry:

I'm from Singapore which is in Asia. We get our cars Euro spec. I suspect the California emission laws are a ***** and Porsche may've put in the additional cat at the headers to get into the US market. I did not get any pipe diameter measurement though. Didn't think that was important. But my car is now having the muffler put in. Let me see whether I can get it measured tomorrow when I drop by the garage again.

Can't you replace the ballast only on the Litronics? I had the same symtom on my previous car with a retrofitted Xenon system. It only happened to one side though. After replacing the ballast, everything was back to normal. We tried replacing the starter and bulb initially but that didn't help.

I'm not sure about how many cells Danks has. There were no check engine lights or I would definitely have told you guys about it :) The cats will accomodate the original O2 sensors which I kept. As my car is a 2000, it does not have a secondary cat at the header. The Dansk headers though has a hole where you can screw in the O2 sensor for 2002 cars.

What he means is for 2002 and above Boxster S, you can go for the 3.6l engine transplant. If you have a 2001 or 2000 Boxster S, you can only go for the 3.4l transplant. There're some significant differences between 2001 and 2002 Boxster/Carrera. One that has been mentioned is the CAN wiring for the electricals which is only applicable for 2002 and above cars.

Check out http://www.iq.dynip.com/~racing/index.cgi?read=22928. Pretty comprehensive writeout afterwhich I decided to give up on the idea of a conversion for the moment :(

Just got back from the dyno today. Results as follows : Horsepower (at the wheels) Base run with Dansk headers : 224.9bhp @ 6,520rpm Run with Dansk Sports Cat : 231.2bhp @ 6,498rpm Gain : 6.3bhp at about 6,500rpm Torque (at the wheels) Base run with Dansk headers : 180.7ft/lb @ 5,816rpm Run with Dansk Sports Cat : 186.08ft/lb@ 5,827rpm Gain : 5.38ft/lb at about 5,800rpm The fuel used for all dyno is 100 Octane as this is available from most pumps locally. I've got the dyno graph but gotta find a scanner to scan it in. Basically, the horsepower and torque gain was throughout the rpm range with the exception of 3,000 - 3,500rpm where the bhp was about the same as before. I'm attaching some before/after comparison photos of the setup and cat itself. Points to note for installation : 1) You will require 2 U joints (left and right cat) for the connection between the cat and the muffler. The original connectors can't be used. Reason being the muffler pipe now slots into the cat pipe (cat pipe diameter is bigger when previously, its the same as before). 2) The left cat piping will hit against the anti roll bar during hard acceleration. During installation on the hoist, you will NOT see them touching each other. However, you will need to bend the muffler bracket to create more clearance between the anti-roll bar and the cat piping. Right is ok. I had to go back on the hoist twice to adjust the clearance. The weights are : Stock Cat : 8.82lbs Dansk Cat : 6.61lbs So there is some savings in weight. BUT.... Stock Headers : 4.4lbs Dansk Headers : 7.72lbs! But I guess the better flow and equal length pipes more than make up for the increased weight. That's it. I'll probably do the Evo filter only next week.

Another pic..

Just got back from my dyno trip today and settled my lingering doubts on whether a tiptronic transmission can be dynoed without complications. And yes, it certainly can This is a baseline run before I put in mods like sports cats and Evo air filter. These will probably be done the next few days and I'll have a seperate thread to report on the results. I already have the Dansk exhaust headers on the car though and didn't bother removing them for a before/after. 224.9bhp (6,500rpm) at the wheels with 192.6 ft/lb (4,900rpm)of torque. I don't really care much about these numbers by themselves as dyno are known to vary from one to another. But it's comforting to know that assuming a drivetrain loss of 15%, the flywheel numbers are about 258bhp which is pretty much on target Important point to note is TRACTION CONTROL WAS DISABLED prior to the dyno run and the run itself was done in 3rd gear under manual tiptronic mode (obviously). This is not a traditional roller dyno but one that bolts directly onto the wheel hub... So the car is effectively suspended on the dyno and there's no need to strap the car down. 1 photo for reference....

Sigh...that's probably why the 3.6l conversion is available for 2003 and above Boxster S :( For 2002 and below Boxsters, some tuning houses are offering only the 3.4l ones...

Read in the Boxster FAQ (http://www.986faq.com/2-0/default.asp) that Tiptronic cars will go into failsafe mode on the dyno. Apprently because the ECU senses the front wheels are not moving in coordination with the rear. Has anyone verified this? I intend to do before and after dyno runs for my headers, sports cats and muffler. Don't fancy making a trip to the dealership just to reset all the fault codes...