JimPDX

Hi all, long time lurker here, now in need of some help.

I just replaced the rear tires on my US 2003 C4S. They were previously Michelin Pilot Sports. I replaced them with Pilot Sport 2's, exactly the same dimensions etc.

Since replacing them, my Traction Control has been kicking in on one particular corner on my route to work. I am very familiar with this route, always used to take this specific corner at 70, never had the traction kick on.  Now even at about 60, the traction kicks on.

Obviously this is causing me a little concern, and a bit less trust in the car. I went back to the garage that changed the wheels, they are a good outfit who I trust, they could find nothing obviously wrong.

So I wonder if anyone here has some insight?. Some extra info to clarify, I only changed the rears the fronts are still the PS1's, I have put about 500 miles on the tires since changing them, so its unlikley to be new tire wear in issues.

The tire shop did suggest that it could be the fact that I didn't change the fronts, but didnt know for sure. Does anyone have experience of this causing such an issue?

Could this be an alignment issue?

I would appreciate some thoughts.

Thx

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and a combination of Porscheritis!

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:cheers:

and a combination of Porscheritis!

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:cheers:

I think we suffer from the same disease.........what is it?

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Sex, drugs and rock 'n roll!

Yeah, I don't remember thinking very clearly on my first date with my wife......and many subsequent ones as well!

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Frankly, Dell, I haven't thought clearly since I got married and got out of law school!

Jim...it was your reaction ("whatever the heck they are") to it not her interpretation.  I am sure she was totally serious.

And what in the world were you thinking taking a chemist to a sushi bar?  YOu were just asking for problems.  You should have just cooked dinner for her.  Wait scratch that.  Unless you have a Kelm in your house, not sure if you would have got the temp hot enough to kill eveything evil off.  You can't win in this one.

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Well, Dell, I remember the night quite vividly and I certainly wasn't thinking with my brain that evening. :rolleyes:

Well, I'm not sure how funny it is to a chemist. She is dead serious about chemistry. Everything to her and her family of chemists and chemical engineers is chemistry this and chemistry that.

My first date with her I took her to a Sushi restaurant down in Palo Alto where we used to live. I ordered everything to impress her. All the sushi and sashimi was brought out and set on the table. she said "what is it?". I said, "it's fish". She said, "I know its fish, but it doesn't looked cooked"!...I spent the rest of the evening listening to the chemical compositional factors of toxins and food borne pathogens. I haven't touched sushi since.

Loren...

How do I remove the cover that is in the picture without breaking the clips. I can feel it move but I'm not sure where its clipped.

Do you have a schematic?

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I've had that piece out, if you put your finger through the aperture and lever off the C panel with your thumb it should come out. Just apply gentle steady pressure.

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Rattles...

Are you saying remove the entire C panel or just the small cover.

thx...

Jim

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Jim,

Just the small cover. One of the clips that held my C panel in place was bent over and was making a lot of noise, I tried getting the C panel off using Loren's instructions but the last clip near the back window would not release, I just removed that small cover to access the bent clip.

Glenn

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OK. I got the litle bugger out. The source of my rattle was the seat belt attachment to the bolt on the frame. Used a double thick piece of felt with some adhesive to the frame side under the belt ring so the movement of the belt is not inhibited and the rattle is gone.

Gentle pressure was the way to go all the way around the aperature.

Thx!! :thumbup: :beer:

I took a picture of the medical report for Gary's old engine today.

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Toolpants...

What do the numbers mean? Seal bore? Concentricity? Obviously out of round?

thx...

Jim

Palo Alto Speedometer

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I've used Palo Alto SpeedO for a number of gages and dash clocks over the years and they are absolutely the best!!

It's kind of amazing that they can really bring a dead gage back to 'life' like they do and their finishing is perfect.

THX for the input.  I'm really happy with the NXT Jim.  I think it looks fantastic.  I am a big fan of the Maguire's line of products.

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I have used McQuires products on my cars for the last 10 years. I think they are probably the only company that really spends the cash developing new products.

The NXT line is just outstanding. In fact, I tossed out the last of my Rejex about 3 weeks ago and I use the NXT line of product on all my cars.

As far as I can tell, NXT outshines, out lasts and out performs Rejex and P21. I think the thing with Rejex is that it has some long time followers in the Porsche world and new products are assumed to be inferior because they work quicker, are easier to use and so on. I think there is this attachment to 'hard work'...i.e., it takes a few hours to get Rejex down right, but NXT on a fully prepared surface takes 45 minutes or less.

The technology is in the bottle...at least that's what my polymer chemist/bio-chemist wife tells me--long chain polymer molecules whatever the heck they are!.

Dell,

I have to concur with wardhog. I have both Rejex and NXT. NXt is brilliant but IMHO it doesn't come even close with Rejex. NXT however does bring up a deep shine on dark colours but it doesn't have the dust and grime inhibiting protection that Rejex gives. As an example, try using NXT on your windows and you will be sorry....so don't try it ;)

But I always use Rejex on my windows. I have a bottle of NXT on my shelf but only use it for my wife's car now ;)

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Hi Scouser...

I have to say that I disagree with you. NXT and Rejex...side by side on my car and NXT is absolutely dazzeling!!!. Rejex has been around for years NXT is relatively new. IMHO NXT makes Rejex look like Ajax...again, just my opinion.

Jim

Clears are.....

996 631 043 01 L

996 631 044 01 R

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Thx Dell...

Jim

Loren...

Can you give me the P/N please for clear side markers (front side reflectors) replacing amber for 1999 996 C2...

Thx...

Jim

Hi Jim

I had a creaking sound from this area which I tracked down to the sunroof mounting point, directly above the seat belt slider.  The torx bolt had loosened off, causing movement between the frame  and roof.

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Thx Richard.

I'll check that out...how do you get to it without taking off the s/room?

Jim

Hi Richard...

OK I'm with you now. I'll pop that off tomorow and check the torx screw for tightness...

Good 'talking' to you again...

Jim

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If you take off the seatbelt mounting and slider, take off the slider/post cover, unclip the plastic cover at the top, you will see a torx screw holding the roof bracket. (That's from memory - it's late at night here!)

And the small rubber pieces under the rear windows? - I changed mine for the longer ones shown in the TSB - shame on you for not looking there first! :rolleyes:

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Loren...

How do I remove the cover that is in the picture without breaking the clips. I can feel it move but I'm not sure where its clipped.

Do you have a schematic?

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I've had that piece out, if you put your finger through the aperture and lever off the C panel with your thumb it should come out. Just apply gentle steady pressure.

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Rattles...

Are you saying remove the entire C panel or just the small cover.

thx...

Jim

Loren...

How do I remove the cover that is in the picture without breaking the clips. I can feel it move but I'm not sure where its clipped.

Do you have a schematic?

I have a 99 C2 myself and had a rattle in the same spot.  It turned out to be a loose rear side window.  I pulled back the rubber on the outside of the window at the bottom and found a small wedge that holds the window tight was loose.  All I did was to slide the wedge towards the front of the car and it got tight against the window and eliminated the rattle.  just get a flat butter knife to peel the rubber back a little and then you can grab it with your fingers and look at the entire of the window bottom for the wedge.  If the wedge is easy to move it is too loose.

Good Luck

Are you talking about the small 50mm metal space located about midway between front and back of the side window?

Thx

Jim

Hi Jim

I had a creaking sound from this area which I tracked down to the sunroof mounting point, directly above the seat belt slider.  The torx bolt had loosened off, causing movement between the frame  and roof.

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Thx Richard.

I'll check that out...how do you get to it without taking off the s/room?

Jim

99 996 C2

Just noticed a rattle when you hit rough roads directly behind driver's left ear--head level

Thought it was my side window. Rulled that out with passenger in back seat.

Thouht it might be seat belt area around slot...can't tell for certain...

Anybody had similar rattle?

thx...

Jim

Did you read the note in step 3 about lighting up the switch? Did you try that?

The only power close is the window switches as the ashtray light only comes on with the headlights.

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Thx Loren...

Yes I did try connecting to the window switch but can't make the attachment because the switch connector (white/black) is such a tight fit.

Thx...

Jim

Loren...

I just did the garage door mod. Everything works just fine and the switch now raises and lowers my garage door...

I want to bring power to light the switch. The two end connectors on the five connector switch are to be connected to the window end connectors.

My problem is that I don't know where to connect them to because the light switch connector really doesn't leave much room to tap into...any ideas about how to do this or bring power from another location...

Thx...

Jim

The mod: http://gallery.rennlist.com/gallery/albur29

i'm so excited!  picking up my c4s at 6:00pm after work tomorrow!  yea! 

so any advice for break and how to drive a manual in the city would be great!  i know you should rev over 4k rpms and i guess light accerlations. how about warm?  etc...  any advice would be great!  thanks guys

jason

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Bavarian is giving you great advice...I have 28,000 on mine and I have never once added a drop of oil...runs like a clock!

I suggest you ask them to put it on a lift and take a pic straight up from underneath. Every car I have ever bought (new and used) I demanded to see the underside before purchase. New cars can have dock damage, road test damage, etc. while used cars could have strut leaks, accident damage, oil leaks, etc., etc. If your friend doesn't know what to look for then have him pay someone that does - pics on a lift would be even better if it is a "long distance" buy. My 2 cents...

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Thank you Loren...

I'll pass that on...

Jim

Loren...

Can you tell if this is an RMS Leak. Its a used car up here in Portland, Oregon that a Rennlist member is thinking about buying. Darren, also a Rennlist member took these shots. He was kind enough to go down to the dealership for the prospective buyer to check the car out.

Thx...

Jim