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DaemonRa

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Everything posted by DaemonRa

  1. Oh wow that quells my fears thanks a LOT! Yeah it had a broken clip on it but i didn't get to see what it was clipped to before i took the tank out. ONE LAST THING: Do i need to burp the coolant system? How do I do that? Is it bad if I don't?
  2. No that is not the dip-stick tube. I don't really know what it does but it is connected to the coolant tank itself and i'll show you what hose it corresponds to on the tank.
  3. So I replaced my coolant reservoir/ expansion tank and was hooking all the hoses up. Everything was going fine, kinda a tight squeeze and i never knew i could fit inside my engine compartment (i'm 6,1) but i got most hooked up. I grabbed the last hose to attach it and it felt kind of loose like it was just float'n around inside there, and infact it WAS. I don't know where the clamps went or what the other end of the hose attaches to. Where do I get more clamps and where does this **** hose go? Here is a picture of the hose that was discconected.
  4. Expansion chamer is what a porche mech called my coolant reservoir so that is what I mean. Is it caused from a leaking coolant reservoir?
  5. ALso when my car was getting close to overheating the first time my oil lamp light came on, there was no oil leakage however. Is the overheating due to the faulty/damaged expansion chamber?
  6. I had the same issue with my 2000 boxster except when i checked the trunk my coolant cap was popped off. I think it was blasted off or something from the pressure. Now my car wont stop overheating.
  7. There was a coolant reservoir thread already so I'll not ask any questions about that. Here is the situation: I was driving up to paradise WA (basecamp on Ranier Mountain), all the way to the top I had AC on low and everything was running fine, my thermometer was even a little below mid temp. We got to the top, walked around for a half hour and headed back down. I noticed while I was driving that I smelled coolant and my engine was continueing to get hotter so I put it in neutral thinking it would cool down if it wasn't in gear and the temperature continued to rise. on a 60degree day at the top of the mountain and an engine that is quickly overheating i knew something was wrong (obviously). I pulled over and the pressure cap on my overflow tank had popped or blown off and my back drunk was covered in coolant. A) I knew i had a small crack in my coolant reservoir and I am already replacing that, where should I order a new one from, and is it smart to look in a junkyard for this part? B) Is there perhaps another issue I am missing with the overheating? I had to get it towed home because i couldn't drive it for more than 20minutes without the temperature beginning to climb to overheated very quickly.
  8. I had the same issue, took the resevoir tank out and there was definately a crack in the bottom. 1. where can i look online to get the best deal on a new one and is it smart to look in junk yards? 2. My car had issues with the temperature gauge saying it was overheating, i've ran low on coolant before and it has never even come close to overheating however my gauge told me it was getting very hot and it goes from cold to overheated in 15minutes of driving. What other sort of issue could this be?
  9. Is there a DIY post that explains how to get to the MAF and throttle body?
  10. There is a lot of suction when I remove the oil filler cap. Also the radiator cap is leaking, need to be replaced and part is in mail.
  11. Update: The check engine light went off and I am currently doing my 60k service. However, I have an idling issue. I've read from other posts on this subject that the boxster idle should be around 700 or so. Mine is about 600 or perhaps a bit less ( slightly less than halfway between 500 and 750 ). When I start the car it idles just fine at about 1000rpms and after that disengages it idles at about 700 for a few minutes then lowers again after driving. It became a place of interest when I turned my lights and fog lights on simultaneously and I heard the engine bog down to just below 500 rpms and then it caught itself and adjusted. Question: What could this be? Question 2: Do any of the issues associated with the check engine light that came come correlate to this issue? Question 3: How do I fix it, what is the part number? Edit: This is attached to the wrong post, oops. Sorry. Here is the back information about the check engine light thing: P1126 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Lower Load Range, Bank 1 – Above Limit P1133 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Lower Load Range, Bank 2 – Above Limit Potential causes: – Incorrect signal from MAF sensor – Intake air system leaking – Fuel pressure too low – Volume supply of fuel pump too low – Fuel injectors fouled
  12. Thank you for the advice, however, it would dumb to go spend and not to ask if I could save. Agreed they aren't that much but still, if its 300 bucks i don't have to spend then why not?
  13. Does anybody have one they can email me? THese things are rediculously expensive.
  14. Try 2528 or 2526 These codes are not working. Do you have any suggestions? Did you read the FAQ - I think not... Please read this and follow the instructions... Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST I did read the suggestions and none of them worked. Don't mean to be troublesome but the codes just aren't working. I've tried going up and down by two's and its just not happen'n.
  15. Can I diagnose this without special equipment? I noticed yesterday while hopping on the freeway (I am no longer driving until I fix this) that it seemed to have lost most of its "guts" if you know what I mean. The power wasn't there like it was a week ago. Is this a tell? Any suggestions?
  16. Update: So I called Schucks and a number of independant auto mechanics. The consensus being that the O2 sensor needs to be adjusted or replaced. New questions being: 1. Since the malfunction has not effected my fuel economy or my performance at all (engine does not smell rich, just normal) should I opt for a full replacement or just and adjustment? 2. There are two different choices for the part I need: A. the Universal o2 sensor costs 121.99 and I have to have it spliced in B. the exact fit just pops in but costs much more 228.99 Question: Is it better to have the exact fit or does the universal one work just the same? Is there any disadvantage or downside to using the universal one?
  17. Hello it is me again. So I got a check egnine light yesterday on my way to work. Took it to Schucks this morning (god bless those dudes) and here is what the scanner read: P1133 P1126 Courtesy of your awesome website these codes mean: P1133: Oxygen sensing adaptation, lower load range, bank 2 P1126: Oxygen sensing adaptation, lower load range, bank 1 What does this mean? What is an Oxygen sensing adation? Lower load range? How much will it cost? Do i need to replace parts? Can I drive with this without hurting my engine? Any remedies? Edit: Second issue with car is: When starting the car, if i turn the key all the way to the right (the normal turn to start any engine) the lights, windshield wipers, AC and heating, etc... electrical wont work. However, when I turn it back to the left slightly they all pop on! ALSO: When I go to turn the car off I get a beeping sound as if the car still thinks the key is in the ignition, and I cannot lock the doors with the key, and when I CAN lock the doors with the key the tumbler (or something in the ignition) gets stuff and you have to almost force the key in. Thx for your help guys. It was suggested by a friend that I need a new ignition box.
  18. Try 2528 or 2526 These codes are not working. Do you have any suggestions?
  19. Do you know what kind to use and where to get it? dealership wants $50
  20. My engine temperature light (the light next to the 250degree mark) keeps flashing at me. This has started only recently and since the manual that I recieved upon purchasing the car was stuck together (pages got wet) I do not know what that light means. Problem: The light on the engine temperature gauge is flashing (not rapidly, just on, off, on, off) Details: My car is not overheating, the temp stays just above 180, in normal range 12'o'clock position. What does this mean? How do I fix it?
  21. Hi im new to the forum. Need code for my car, just bought 2000 Boxster: Becker 1 4462 SN: X5030222
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