Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

toddel68

Contributing Members
  • Posts

    135
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by toddel68

  1. Hi Glenn, don't worry too much. I bought the car with RMS already diagnosed. Only after I had joined different forums I realized that this "little easy to fix leak" was a common Porsche problem. For the first 4 months I used to have one or two drops a month on the garage floor. Since it's gotten hotter I haven't seen any of it. Doesn't really make sense since with higher temps the oil should be able to bypass the seals easier - maybe I loose it on the Autobahn when I go 270+ :P Anyway, if it doesn't get worse I'll just wait until the clutch is ready to be replaced and have it done then. Latest at the 80k inspection which is still 10k ahead. At least I'm determined not to let it ruin my fun with the car (as with the rattles). Thorsten
  2. Well here's some feedback. When I tried to follow Glenn's tip with the silicone grease on the seal I had some problems to find the seal he was talking about. After he sent me a picture I realized that I had lost the seal somewhere down the road. After glueing in a new one according to TSB 6028 (the second one) the general noise level from the roof seems to have lowered, but the ticking noise is still there. I would locate the sound left of the middle of the sun roof opening under the trim piece. (Reversed on the passenger side of course). I could reproduce the noise by tapping quite hard on an area which is about 10-15cm more to the front of the car than my hand on the above picture. The noise is always present when the car starts swinging is a rhythmic pattern on rough roads. On short hard bumps it's not there at all. The problem Digmiro is describing here on post #11 seems to be just the same. Any further ideas?
  3. Hi Brute, first of all: congratulations and welcome to the club! If you are not converting from standard to xenon lights everything you need to know is in your manual. Just refer to the different bulb changing sections to find instructions for light unit removal. The change shouldn't take more than 20 minutes for all lights. If your new brake light is a LED light it might not light up at first because unlike normal bulbs LEDs won't run if the polarity is not right. In that case just reverse the cable on the plug. Ran into this problem myself with the second light in the spoiler. Did you think of buying a second one? <_< I didn't even realize that there's another one before I actuated my spoiler manually :eek: It didn't work though since the contacts had been a little corroded... Regards, Thorsten BTW: It's okay to use Brute force :P SCNR
  4. I was only referring to "disconnecting" the batteries instead of just switching them off... Could literally see you crawling through the A&E compartment in search for them :P Thorsten
  5. Definitely has to be the first thing to do - and side marker, of course. IMO the old orange look makes the car look cheap. While your at it consider the full turn light mod with silvervision bulbs. :thumbup: Thorsten
  6. Next time I suggest you only disconnect external power and switch off the apu in order to avoid delays and keep the passengers happy. :clapping:
  7. Hallo Wolfgang, yes it's definitely the roof . I already replaced the spacers under the side windows as a precaution a few weeks ago. I must admit I have difficulties too to believe it's the rubberseal. But since Glenn is THE expert on rattles I will give it a try anyway. I suspect it could be the z-shaped Metal springs at the rear edges of the sliding roof running back and forth with it. Any experience on these? Greetings from Wiesbaden, Thorsten
  8. Hi, I do have ticking, clicking noise in my roof that seems to come from right above my head. When I press firmly on the point shown in the picture the noise stops. Same thing when I do it on the passenger side. I've had the lining off two times now and using the TSB didn't really help since somehow what I find up there doesn't resemble the drawings in the TSB. Or maybe it's my limited imagination. At least I don't have any reenforcement ribs that could touch the roof. (Although the sound is exactly like they were) Almost every part that could cause noises was covered with felt tapes by now but that didn't help either. This is really driving me nuts: I now where to put my hand to make the noise stop but everytime I look at it with the lining off I only find the reenforcement bar that runs from left to right. This thing is really stiff so I can't see how it could possibly cause the ticking. But somehow it does.. I do have a sliding roof as you can see - there is no difference if I have it open or closed. Except for the fact that with all the wind noise it's not that bothering any more :D Any ideas? Thorsten (whose efforts to have a almost rattle-free car are driving him crazy)
  9. I'll keep you updated. Thorsten <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Had the car repaired and it cost me 600 EUR replacing the alternator including 100 EUR for 'measures after disconnecting the battery' , checking and loading it as well as taking it out and putting it in again. I just wish I could earn 100 EUR just by running the windows up and down, setting the clock and looking at the voltmeter. And why the f... did they have to take out the battery to load it!? Apart from that I definitely change the dealer as the treated me like an idiot. Turned the car in at 10am and when I called at 5pm they told me that they didn't have the alternator on stock and would fix it the next day before 11am. To glad I had told them before I would need the car because I would be on standby on work all day. Do I have to mention that the car was fixed at 4pm next day after I called in three times? :cursing: Letter to Porsche to local Porsche service department is on the way....
  10. Haven't paid him yet but the car has been there all morning and I suppose the work is already done by now and somebody will call me soon to tell me to pick up my car... Well let's see. I'll keep you updated. Thorsten
  11. Thank you TP, maybe I didn't express myself correctly. I'm aware that the regulator is to be replaced and not to be fixed but this guy told me the regulator is integrated in the alternator ( or at least can't be purchased apart from the alternator) and if it's broken they would need to replace the complete thing. That would be how much? 800$ instead of 30$ for the parts? And I don't even want to know the difference in labor cost. Sound like a total rip-off to me.
  12. Turned the car in this morning and when I told the service guy that I suspect the regulator to have failed and needed replacement he told me that it's not available as a separate part and the whole generator has to be replaced. :cursing: Is this true or is he trying to rip me off? I'd appreciate a quick answer since I will probably pick up the car in a few hours. Regards, Thorsten
  13. Installed the new battery and started the car in my garage. Everything looked fine then but when I went to work yesterday my Becker TP suddenly stalled after a few hundred meters. A few seconds later the warning-lights came on again and the voltmeter had dropped to about 11,8 volts. At higher revs the voltmeter popped up a few times which caused the systems to re-engage again. Power would only be up for a few times then stick at slightly below 12V for the rest of the drive while ABS, PSM etc subsequently remained off. I have an appointment at the dealer monday morning and just hope it's only a small thing to fix and not the generator itself.. Could be the regulator. Any idea if it's a big deal to change the regulator myself? Is there a DIY? BTW: The dealer quoted a price of 190EUR ~ 250 USD (!) for the replacement battery which is a MOLL KAMINA 80Ah. While the original MOLL without the Porsche logo on it costs 'only' 120 EUR I went for a 83 EUR no-name product. Just like the MOLL battery it was tested among the three best in several car magazines. The funny thing is it looks exactly like the OEM-part <_< Nevertheless batteries seem to sell at much better price outside europe. Thorsten
  14. The one in my Ford lasted 7 1/2 years :P So I'll just get me a new battery tomorrow and see what happens. I would have needed it anyway and it looks like it has happened before: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=4078&hl=
  15. Loren, do you have a secretary? I could only have taken me 60sec to add the age of the battery and you had already posted this question. You're frightening me. :eek:
  16. Driving home from work today a lot of warning lights e.g. PSM, ABS, Seat Belts (or is it Airbag) and also battery came on while the voltage was only showing 11V. I had noticed that lately my battery appeared to be a little weak when starting the car so I was kind of expecting it to fail soon. The only thing that confuses me is that instead of just not having enough juice to start the motor (like in my other cars) it's showing all these warning lights. How can I make sure it's certainly not the generator or something else. If it's the battery is there a technical background why it has failed after it suddenly got warm here or is it just coincidence? Today was the first day with about 20° C while we've had around freezing point until two days ago. Looks like batteries have become a hot topic lately. Seems to be this time of the year... Thanks, Thorsten Edit: Forgot to mention: As far as I can tell from the bills I got from previous owners the battery is still the first one ('Moll 80Ah'). So it's really due after over six years...
  17. I think I was to quick to announce that the porblem was solved. Today was a windy day again and when I was going fast the door started whistling again :( I guess I will take it to the dealer now and let him fix it under warranty whichI still have on the new door. I will post results a soon as I was there. Dang- why couldn't there an easy fix!
  18. XTG - Inner sill finished in leather XTN - Mirror adjust in leather XU1 - perhaps XV1 - Defroster trim in leather <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I have XNG which is the defroster in leather according to the above table. Could it be the middle console which was removed (GT3 look)? The first owner must have been a leather addict - I have about 10 leather options in the car. Thanks for the other codes Loren! Thorsten
  19. Now I get it. Must have been the language barrier...But you're right, every time I manage to eliminate a rattle the next one is just around the corner. Sometimes I think that it was already there and I just didn't notice because it was to noisy. :angry:
  20. Well, I could offer lots of rattles and RMS (not dripping) but I think now we are getting :offtopic: somehow Thorsten :)
  21. My buddy owns an Aston Martin Vanquish. He spent about 7000 EUR (~9200$) on the built in sound system which is made by Alpine as far as I know. Anyway the sound sucks becauses the equalizer is a joke. A monitor based nav system ws not available by AM. So he spent another few grands to have a customized panel fit in together with amplifiers and a pioneer avix xc1. Still I would trade in the car for my Porsche at any time :notworthy:
  22. Just let me know before you do it so I can call my broker in England and bet some money on you winning this one -> http://www.darwinawards.com/darwin/ in 2005. :lol: SCNR Thorsten
  23. Hallo Wolfgang, Thanks for putting my focus to the windshield area. Inspecting the car in bright daylight I found some tree semen under the windshield seal in the lower area of the A pillar. So that was right in the area where you said the underpressure is created. Although the seal was only lifted by 1 or 2 mm it seemed to be enough to create the noise. I did another 'highspeed-test' and as far as I can say the noise is gone. Yet I have to test it at higher speeds and similar gust conditions but that will have to wait until my winter tires come off. I wouldn't consider the hand-on-window-method accurate enough since opening the window or putting my hand on had worked for me even though the fault was somewhere else. Maybe the airfllow was altered that way as to create a vibration on a different car of the part. In my case it was the window. I often see that on aircrafts where it's really hard to locate where noises are generated. What the heck - maybe highspeed noises are just a specific german problem :P Thorsten
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.