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About DeAd-EyE

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  • From
    Toronto, ONT
  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    1999 996 C2

DeAd-EyE's Achievements


Member (1/1)



  1. They're pretty cheap to begin with, when we're talking about 40$ for the fronts and like $100 for the rears, it's really not worth the effort at that point m8.
  2. I need to do my wheel bearings as they're starting to howl despite having no play. Since they're a fairly cheap part, I might as well do all of em at once. Am curious as to whether anyone has opinions or rather facts on the quality of the bearing manufacturers: F A G, NTN or SKF. All are OEM suppliers. All have been around for over 100 years and all are well known. Are there any design differences that would make one more durable than the other? EDIT: The site automatically blocks out the word F A G. It's the name of the bearing manufacturer in this case and not the insult lol. Any chance a mod could override that incase people want to search for a similar issue in the future? We're all grow-ups here afterall :).
  3. Does anyone know how many amps the mini blade fuse that is plugged into the side of the alarm control unit found under the driver's seat of the 996 is supposed to be. I found a 15 Amp in there but was told that there should be a 7.5 Amp in there. Looking for clarification. Cheers
  4. Those are the factory spec sizes - but you could easily go 235/40/18 and 295/30/18. Or, use the wider Mk2 wheels (8.5" front and 11" rear). didn't know i could get 235's on there without rubbing. will have to do that next time. i'm sure it would help neutralize the steering.
  5. hmm...knock on wood that my wheel guy has em. I think they would though, they're made by BBS so if you have a 2/3piece bbs wheel, you would use the same studs. Can you confirm that 225/40/18 front and 285/30/18 is the right tire size? some tire manufacturers have a 285/35/18 as well.
  6. As the title says, i have the 2 piece 996 sport design wheels and am missing one of the little studs that holds the wheel together. Can someone please provide a part number as well as the torque spec for the bolt? does it have to be loctited? If it fell out during use, am I better off just taking the wheel to a good repair shop and having them re/re and reseal the wheel to make sure everything is up to snuff on it? thanks.
  7. yep. rennlist.com has a very active toronto member base as well and is a good place to post if you want to get in on some meets/drives/track days. renntech is the place to go for technical answers, DIY stuff and part#'s.
  8. I broke the lever on my sport seat (the one on the side that lets you raise and lower the seat). Can they be ordered without replacing the whole seat? my PET only shows seat complete.
  9. thanks loren. i'll look into the feasability of drilling a spot for it thru the rebar.
  10. So it turns out that my front bumper is a supercup front bumper which explains why it has the tow hook slot. i'm not sure if supercups have the bumper support bar, but it seems that this bar is right infront of the tow hook slat, so i'll have to cut thru it to secure the tow hook? Does someone have a diagram or install directions from a supercup to show where it should be secured to? TY
  11. Loren et all, do you have the part number for this part and a price? Can it be ordered from dealers or PMNA only? Thanks
  12. Don't tell insurence anything, it's just an intake, 99.9999% of the time this is a non-issue, especially on highend cars. They're really more worried about canning insurence policies of 19 year olds with honda civics with NOSed Type R motors that are gutted and caged with slicks. As for the change in the driving, if it feels good, do it. Its a bit late over here but i'll post up some more on the intake after dinner or 2morrow morning.
  13. how big can i go with the doors/dash pods/rear pods without having to do some major work? 5.25" doors? 1" tweeters and 4" drivers for the pods?
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