1999Porsche911

I also run Gator for that reason.

Verify that you have the correct belt size and all 6 ribs are on the pullies.

Check for broken oil pressure spring on the oil pump. Don't do anything drastic like changing the oil pump until you get a real mechanical oil pressure test.

The description is exactly what I experienced years ago in AR in August in our 99 C2. I quickly discovered that one of the front radiator fans was not working and drove all the way home to Seattle with the A/C working and the engine NOT overheating. The secret... Turn the temperature control to MAXIMUM cooling "lo", recirculate mode, and then use the blower speed to control/regulate cabin temperature. Bypassing the system's reheat/remix temperature regulation path results in lowering the heat loading of the radiator enough that I did not need to replace the fan until I got home. Actually, it was your high speed driving and therefore full air flow over the condensers that kept temps down. My fans are always completely off running on the highway and AC running while maintaining <200F engine temps. Just short trips, like from Chicago to Vegas, :notworthy:

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery for a few seconds and reconnect. Code is gone. Make sure you have your radio code.

Verify that both raditor fans are on HIGH speed when AC is running. Not running on high speed will quickly raise the engine temps to those levels.

It would be extremely unlikely that flap only moves part way. You can verify full 90 degrees movement externally by looking at the pivot point visable on the tube while you apply vacuum. It should move 90 degrees.

I'm resurrecting this thread because I have not completely solved my problem with the vacuum lines. Would someone help me out with the logic and see if I am interpretting this correctly? The resonance Flap is normally open, which means that in rest state it is Open, which means that if there is no vacuum applied to the Flap, it is Open. Can I conclude that the Changeover Valve is closed? Idle is between 700 to 3120rpm, during which Flap should be Open, which means that at Idle, Changeover Valve is closed. Can I conclude that there should be no vacuum if I pull off the side vacuum hose on the Changeover Valve? I'm asking because ever since I broke those hoses, I've been having very uneven power delivery during WOT through the rev band. And now that I have fixed the hoses (and connected them to the correct places), I still have the uneven WOT power. Do I need to reset something? Would buying a Durametric help me solve the problem I am experiencing? Can I test if my changeover valve is working? No. Open is OPEN. That means the flap is open when vacuum is not applied. Or, to put it another way, the flap is closed when vacuum is applied. Removing the side vacuum line that goes to the flap should not find any vacuum when at idle or when engine is off. That's what I meant - No Vacuum, Flap Open. Vacuum, Flap Closed. I wanted to further conlude if - No Vacuum, Flap Open, Changeover Valve Closed. Vacuum, Flap Closed, Changeover Valve Open. so that I can diagnose the proper operation of my changeover valve. Does a faulty changeover valve throw up any error codes? Changeover valve is normally closed meaning that without electric signal to it, no vacuum will get to the side nipple. An electrical problem with valve with throw a code. A vacuum leak will not unless it is large enough to make you run lean and then you will get an O2 sensor code.

I'm resurrecting this thread because I have not completely solved my problem with the vacuum lines. Would someone help me out with the logic and see if I am interpretting this correctly? The resonance Flap is normally open, which means that in rest state it is Open, which means that if there is no vacuum applied to the Flap, it is Open. Can I conclude that the Changeover Valve is closed? Idle is between 700 to 3120rpm, during which Flap should be Open, which means that at Idle, Changeover Valve is closed. Can I conclude that there should be no vacuum if I pull off the side vacuum hose on the Changeover Valve? I'm asking because ever since I broke those hoses, I've been having very uneven power delivery during WOT through the rev band. And now that I have fixed the hoses (and connected them to the correct places), I still have the uneven WOT power. Do I need to reset something? Would buying a Durametric help me solve the problem I am experiencing? Can I test if my changeover valve is working? No. Open is OPEN. That means the flap is open when vacuum is not applied. Or, to put it another way, the flap is closed when vacuum is applied. Removing the side vacuum line that goes to the flap should not find any vacuum when at idle or when engine is off. That's what I meant - No Vacuum, Flap Open. Vacuum, Flap Closed. I wanted to further conlude if - No Vacuum, Flap Open, Changeover Valve Closed. Vacuum, Flap Closed, Changeover Valve Open. so that I can diagnose the proper operation of my changeover valve. Does a faulty changeover valve throw up any error codes? Changeover valve is normally closed meaning that without electric signal to it, no vacuum will get to the side nipple. An electrical problem with valve with throw a code. A vacuum leak will not unless it is large enough to make you run lean and then you will get an O2 sensor code.

I'm resurrecting this thread because I have not completely solved my problem with the vacuum lines. Would someone help me out with the logic and see if I am interpretting this correctly? The resonance Flap is normally open, which means that in rest state it is Open, which means that if there is no vacuum applied to the Flap, it is Open. Can I conclude that the Changeover Valve is closed? Idle is between 700 to 3120rpm, during which Flap should be Open, which means that at Idle, Changeover Valve is closed. Can I conclude that there should be no vacuum if I pull off the side vacuum hose on the Changeover Valve? I'm asking because ever since I broke those hoses, I've been having very uneven power delivery during WOT through the rev band. And now that I have fixed the hoses (and connected them to the correct places), I still have the uneven WOT power. Do I need to reset something? Would buying a Durametric help me solve the problem I am experiencing? Can I test if my changeover valve is working? No. Open is OPEN. That means the flap is open when vacuum is not applied. Or, to put it another way, the flap is closed when vacuum is applied. Removing the side vacuum line that goes to the flap should not find any vacuum when at idle or when engine is off.

If you have a noise up front and the fans are not activated and you are not moving, there is nothing else to cause the noise but a restriction in the radiators or front coolant lines.

Chances are one of your fan's bearings is bad. Fan can run normal for a long time with a bad bearing if you can stand the annoying squeal.

You'll notice no less control with aggressive street driving.

Tire wear is extremely sensitve to alignment. If your camber is set to the maximum Porsche spec, you can go through a set of rear tires on the street in as little as 7,000 miles. Reduce the camber just 20% and you'll get another 4,000+ out of them. Those who get 20,000 miles out of their rears have their camber and toe set close to the minimum spec. As with all things in life, you have to compromise. You cannot have both maximum handling ability and maximum tire life. For most drivers, dialing down the alignment is both safe and desirable.

Did you get a printout of the alignment? Sounds like they dialed in positive camber rather than negative. Any alignment shop can quickly identify whether your camber is positive. If it is, rapid acceleration will make the outside half of the tires wear even more. If you bought the car and the tires were already worn on the outside, maybe the previous owner remounted the tires to the wheels.

When I first changed mine I used the Mobil. Next day I changed it to the Shell and it was night and day.

Remove the entire strip that holds both covers. Lift the end of the strip from the front windshield and lift up carefully. There are clips that hold the strip down which will release quite easily when strip is pulled up. Then reseat the cover properly and put the strip back on.

We’re not talking about an automatic. His indy told him - well, read it - that's what I am saying is Bull. You can change gear oil at any time and mileage and it will all be good.

If I drove an automatic 90,000 miles with original fluid, I would either not chenage it, or if compelled to do so, only change out about halpf of it at a time and the other half only after another 6 months or so if I find there has been no negative effects of the first change. If you think its BULL, then go and change it all and the filter. IME, you have about a 50/50 chance that your transmission will not function as designed.

Passenger side.

Speaking of the Durametric software, I was told it does not show ignotion timing. Is that true?

Radiator Fan and Engine Compartment Fan Switch Mod The 3.4 996 runs extremely hot when driving around town in temperatures higher than 75 degrees. This mod is a way to reduce coolant temps back to a safer level, helping to reduce oil temps and improving performance. The mod consists of installing a switch that will allow you to turn on the high speed radiator fans at any time, while maintaining the automatic operation of the fans. We do the same for the engine compartment fan. Radiator Fans Connect a wire to the ground (Pin #85) of the 2 high speed fan relays located on the relay carrier located in the driver’s side foot well. The relays are #20 and #22. Feed this wire to where your switch will be located. Connect the wire to one side of the switch. Connect another wire from the other contact on the switch and then connect the other end of this wire to a chassis ground point. With key on, this switch will now immediately turn on both radiator fans providing maximum cooling. When you turn the key off, the fans will continue to run for about 5 seconds until the relay shuts down. Your fan operation remains normal when the switch is off. Engine Compartment Fan Connect a wire to the ground of the relay located in the relay carrier behind the passenger seat, driver’s side. Relay #8. . Feed this wire to where your switch will be located. I simply fed the wire along the driver’s side of the car and under the door sill. Connect the wire to one side of the switch. Connect another wire from the other contact on the switch and connect the other end of this wire to a chassis ground point. With key on, this switch will now immediately turn on the fan drawing air into the engine compartment. When you turn the key off, the fan will continue to run for about 5 seconds until the relay shuts down. Your fan operation remains normal when the switch is off. This mod helps keep the engine compartment much cooler when driving around town and is particularly beneficial to any engine that draws its intake air from inside the engine compartment, such as the EVO SC. If you are adventurous, you can automate the operation of these switches so they will switch off at a specific speed, or operate when vacuum is present only, etc. You can choose any style switch you want and even use Porsche switches. I simply used 2 toggle switches that I installed in the batwing, Jim

Also, pull slightly on the emergency brake and see if the noise changes. . It could be a lose shoe.

Air is going to take the path of least resistance and if you do not have the bumper openings properly sealed with the ducts or other method, little air is going to pass through radiators. I would install the proper ducts as well as run the fans on high to draw more air into the radiators. Air flow to the engine compartment is also important. The more flow you have, the cooler your car will run and the cooler your intake temperatures will be, giving you more power. You can manually turn on the engine compartment fan to assist in increasing the airflow.

Pick up 3 liters of Shell Transaxle Lube from the dealer for around $90.