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1999Porsche911

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About 1999Porsche911

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  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    1999 996 C2 Supercharged

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  1. Just read your reply to the guy who mentioned a scanning tool. What tool do you recommend, make, model etc. I am having difficulty using this web site so I hope you get this one.

    Bernie

    0712101132 MST

  2. wwest, ive heard of doing to two head gaskets but hear more about changing out pistons. look at response for 1999Porsche991 below. There is obviously something wrong with your SC setup or with the dyno/operator. You should be conservatively getting 350+ rwhp. Currently, my high boost 99 C2 is delivering in excess of 450 rwhp with stock compression. Check your boost behind the throttlebody, plugs and timing. A vacuum gauge may show a large vacuum leak. Many of these units were installed by people who did not know what there were doing. It's relatively simple to produce 400 rwhp once your current system is running as designed. 1999Porsche911, the SC is installed correctly. what is wrong is the ECU is not mapped correctly. i should have the data soon to support that. my dyno guy explained where in the low-end there was not enough gas then also in the high-end it would drop off too. he mentioned that fuel pump maybe be bad or not pushing enough fuel but further testing he came to the conclusion that the ECU is not mapped correctly and not sending enough fuel out. who did your SC install 1999? Who did your install? The ECU update is a standard part of the system, so your computer has either been updated or not. Lack of fuel would not allow you to even get close to redline so a proper dyno run would not be possible. Basic readings should be known, such as fuel trim, MAF signal, timing and level of boost; at idle and near redline. Further tuning is not possible without these readings.
  3. There is obviously something wrong with your SC setup or with the dyno/operator. You should be conservatively getting 350+ rwhp. Currently, my high boost 99 C2 is delivering in excess of 450 rwhp with stock compression. Check your boost behind the throttlebody, plugs and timing. A vacuum gauge may show a large vacuum leak. Many of these units were installed by people who did not know what there were doing. It's relatively simple to produce 400 rwhp once your current system is running as designed.
  4. Try pulling the cruise switches above brake and clutch pedals out all the way. One of them might have been bumped and is not not extended all the way.
  5. Of course if you take an older generation Z06 against the newer Porsche, the Vette has a harder time. Try comparing the same year and not the C5. All smoke and mirrors done to sway people.
  6. That would have to be a very mild corner to take it at 120 mph. Additionally, no GT3 will come close to beating a C6 Z06, even after a 1/4 mile. You must have been dreaming about that TV show, or watching The Twighlightezone. :P
  7. I would not let them pull it apart again until I was there watching to make sure flywheel was installed correctly. It could be the flywheel or like they screwed up and might have hit the sensor or wiring. Sensor circuit can be tested without pulling the tranny. Code would be helpful.
  8. That depends almost entirely on how much you are willing to derate the base engine performance via lowering the static compression ratio. The more PRE-COMPRESSED and INTERCOOLED cylinder CHARGE you can make use of via the SC the more ON-BOOST HP/Torque you can get. 8:1 static would not be out-landish IMMHO. Absent some level of CR derating I wouldn't bother. You are absolute wrong in your statement. There is no speculation about this, although you always seem to have it. Low boost and high compression has been around for years and if the boost is managed properly, it produces as much power as a higher boosted, lower static compression engine does. Whether you take a low static compression engine and boost it with 10 psi of boost or a high static compression engine and boost it with 5 psi, the boosted compression ratio of 18:1 creates the same stress on an engine and will deliver the same amount of power, all other things being equal. The engine with the higher staticc compression, however, will perform substantially better in off boost and low boost driving. There are many good books available that you should read which will enlighten you about FI engines. Sorry, simple matter of physics, the more, the higher %, of the cylinder charge that can be cooled AFTER compression the higher the effective BOOSTED compression ratio can be without resulting in detonation. Due to the cooling effects of DFI the new NA engines can have a static compression ratio of ~12:1. So, exactly what are you saying "sorry" for? You did not contradict a single thing I said.
  9. That depends almost entirely on how much you are willing to derate the base engine performance via lowering the static compression ratio. The more PRE-COMPRESSED and INTERCOOLED cylinder CHARGE you can make use of via the SC the more ON-BOOST HP/Torque you can get. 8:1 static would not be out-landish IMMHO. Absent some level of CR derating I wouldn't bother. You are absolute wrong in your statement. There is no speculation about this, although you always seem to have it. Low boost and high compression has been around for years and if the boost is managed properly, it produces as much power as a higher boosted, lower static compression engine does. Whether you take a low static compression engine and boost it with 10 psi of boost or a high static compression engine and boost it with 5 psi, the boosted compression ratio of 18:1 creates the same stress on an engine and will deliver the same amount of power, all other things being equal. The engine with the higher staticc compression, however, will perform substantially better in off boost and low boost driving. There are many good books available that you should read which will enlighten you about FI engines.
  10. I suspect that they installed the incorrect clutch dis. I can't read the make or part number of the disc picture you posted. Possibly installed backwards if it was noisy.
  11. Is it cranking normally and just not starting or is the cranking slower than normal when hot?
  12. Your question was answered. Your MAF signal is not calibrated properly. i also wasnt able to find "timing" and whats LTFT and STFT? dont think i saw those either?? is there anyway to alter durametric software to mph instead of kph and celcius to farenheit? can i use a gt3 air filter and bypass the MAF sensor altogether? LTFT = Long Term Fuel Trim STFT = Short Term Fuel Trim Durametric can show both metric and standard values The MAF must be used. Read the durametric manual for how to show the values mentioned.
  13. Your question was answered. Your MAF signal is not calibrated properly.
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