Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

1999Porsche911

Members
  • Posts

    907
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by 1999Porsche911

  1. thanks for the response guys! JeTexas, im thinking those mods are adding more air in the car and its overly compensating with oil and fuel? i'am also getting less mpg than originally when i had the cars w/o modifications. im not complaining about mpg though, more oil consumption than anything else. any feel for your 996 oil consumption over a 1000 mile period anyone? Zero, nada, zippo oil usage, ever. But, then again, I only use Mobil 0W40 for keeping the door hinges from squeaking. Move to the Mobil 15W50 I suggested above as it has better cleaning agents than any of the other Mobil synthetics. I have yet to see an engine that burns oil using Mobil 0W40 that did not substantially reduce or eliminate oil burning.
  2. Try filling it with Mobil EXTENDED PERFORMANCE 15W50 should drastically reduce oil consumption and provide better protection.
  3. If your high speed fans are turning on when the coolant temperature is below 215F, then, assuming the system is functioning as designed, your A/C fluid temperature is too hot which is the result of too much pressure which makes the air being sucked past the radiators from the condenser hotter than it should be which reduces the cooling capacity of the radiators. I would suggest grounding the high speed fan relays and driving that way for awhile and see the difference in coolant temperatures. If you still see high temperatures, have the high pressure of the A/C checked. Running the engine compartment fan also helps reduce coolant tempertures.
  4. Your high speed fans ARE NOT on just because the A/C is on. The high speed will only kick on if the pressure switch senses too high a pressure or the coolant temperature reaches 215F.
  5. First of all, your engine never ran at 80C. If it had, your thermostat would have remained closed. The high speed radiator fans do not come on just because the A/c is on. I have heard otherwise on this board but on the more than 35 996's I have tested, NONE of them come on high just because the A/C is on. High speed fan operation is determined by pressure in the A/C and/or coolant temperature. The targeted coolant temperature for the 996 is 90C and in reality, it will run slightly above that at highway speeds. Slower, around town driving may raise the temperature to as high as 105 -110C unless your fans are running on high.
  6. That's it (left pic). You seem to be missing the long hard black plastic line. Just connect that line to the electric changeover valve tube shown in your first picture. Any type of vacuum line will do.
  7. It connects to another black, hard plastic tube that goes to the resonance valve on the back intake crossover tube. There should be a short rubber hose that connects the two plastic lines.
  8. The 99 C2 TC has a cable controlled throttle and the TC does not work in the way you described. I don't see how this would effect the idle.
  9. Could you define fact please?...seems to me you have opinions (perhaps hypotheses) but NO DATA to support your claims. read post 66 Search on Doug Hillary and you will find someone who has studied oil in Porsches and actually has data instead of being an internet jockey. I do not state as "fact" things I read or hear about. That would have to be classified as hearsay. Personal experience and testing is what makes it a fact. I might also ask you to provide ANY data of ANY testing that has been done EVER to prove that the oil flow in the engine is inhibited when moving from a 0W40 to a 15W50. Seems to me that people prefer to accept a conscientious as fact with no proof, yet want all kind of proof from those who know differently. The argument made by Doug in the link you supplied begins with an incorrect assumption: That the viscosity of an oil affects its flow the same under gravity as it does under pressure. Therefore, garbage in, garbage out. Viscosity IS NOT a measurement of the flow of an oil in an engine.
  10. 0W40 and 5W40 WILL NOT deliver that same oil pressure, hot or cold. Even 2 different 0W40 oils will most likey not deliver the same pressure. The range allowed to call an oil 40 weight is HUGE.
  11. Old wive's tail. The fact is, 15W50 and 0W40 oil flow to ALL engine componants at EXACTLY the same speed using the stock oil pump. Therefore, flow is of absolutetly no concern. However, 15W50 will remain on the upper parts of the engine longer than will Mobil Water, therefore protecting the engine better. You need to seperate the marketing "facts" from the performance facts. Viscocity is a measurement of flow by gravity and not under pressure or vacuum. Higher oil pressure does not mean less flow, but it does mean that parts are seperated better. The flow facts can easily be tested on your engine while in your car. It has been done many times.
  12. That would be true IF your gauge reading of 1 bar was accurate. However, it is not even close. :D And what makes you think it's not accurate?? The specs I found for this engine are 5 bar@5000 RPM with a oil temp of 90C. I think you might be trying to fix something that isn't broken. All you have to do is replace your electronic sensor with a mechanical pressure gauge to see the real reading. Mobil Water is not vicious enough to properly protect bearings during low pressure and high load conditions. Just like your coolant gauge, your pressure gauge is no more than an idiot light as far as accuracy goes.
  13. That would be true IF your gauge reading of 1 bar was accurate. However, it is not even close. :D
  14. When you change oil, don't replace it with Mobil 0W40. Put a better and higher vicosity oil in the engine. You never want to see less than 1.5 bar at idle. I suggest a 5W50 or 15W50 on the 3.4 engine.
  15. I don't think any practical mod would produce that result, actually, though I know you feel differently. But I'll be happy with any improvement, and delighted if I never saw the far side of 105C except in the very worst circumstances. Not my belief, but a fact. Why not just do the mod and be on your way?
  16. If the bet is that your coolant temperature will stay below 215F while in traffic....I'll take that bet. :D
  17. Remove the fuel pump fuse. Yes, but removing the fuse will throw a Cel, right? No it won't. And it wouldn't matter if it did.
  18. After reading this thread and seeing the mention of a relationship bewteen the changeover valve and variocam, it should be made clear that there is no relationshup to the variocam, directly ot indirectly. The resonance control adjusts intake length, whereas the variocam adjusts valve lift. Resonance flap is controled by both vacuum and electronics and is normally open, The butterfly valve (tuning flap) in the back crossover tube is controlled by the electric changeover valve (sits right above alternater) which recieves it's vacuum supply from a reserve canister on top of the engine. There is ALWAYS vacuum to the changeover valve. The tuning flap is normally open and operates as follows: Open from 700 to 3120 rpm and from 5120 rpm . Closed from 3120 to 5120 rpm , if the throttle is also more than 30 % open at the same time.
  19. I've been through the Durametric. Now I'm on the PST2. Still not finding the fault. You're not looking for a fault, but a sensor which indicates something is outside parameters.
  20. That is exactly why I suspect it is the tank or cap. When thermostat opens pressure is introduced to those components.
  21. Probably just a bad cap (even tho they tested it) or a crack in the reservior. When thermostat is closed, those components are not under pressure.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.