boxster_nut

 

Search is your friend here...

7 pages of people with the same problem and several solutions.

 

http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/1728-horn-problem/

Thank you....interesting reading.

 

-J

 

Follow-up my repair:

 I didn't have to go through all the work in removing bushing, silicon, nylon washers....described  here

http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/1728-horn-problem/page-7

The bushings on my 97 while deteriated, wern't completely gone.  All I did was get #31 o-rings and put them over the center sleeve on *each*  side of the bushing. I did not fix them in place with silicon...didn't see the need as they are fairly snug on the sleeve and when assembled, are sandwiched between the large head screw, the horn frame, and the contact block in the steering wheel.  One could seat them in silicon but I do not see the need to spend extra time while the silicon dries.

A fourty minute job and back together and good as new.  One can get the #31 o-rings at Home Depot or Lowes, mfg by Danco, ten in a pack for $2.50.

Hope this helps someone with their repair.

I had some extra time over the weekend so I took some pictures of the fix for the horn covered in the earlier post. The o-rings measured .300 x .580 and .140 thick. The nylon washer measured .375 x .875 and .031 thick. The image below shows the hole after the center is remove, the components partially disassembled, the components together, and the components assembled to the frame.

I know this is a old thread but wanted to update with my experience.  I didn't have to go through all the work here.  The bushings on my 97 while deteriated, wern't completely gone.  All I did was get #31 o-rings and put them over the center sleeve on *each*  side of the bushing. I did not fix them in place with silicon...didn't see the need as they are fairly snug on the sleeve and when assembled, are sandwiched between the large head screw, the horn frame, and the contact block in the steering wheel.  One could seat them in silicon but I do not see the need to spend extra time while the silicon dries.

A fourty minute job and back together and good as new.  One can get the #31 o-rings at Home Depot or Lowes, mfg by Danco, ten in a pack for $2.50.

Hope this helps someone with their repair.

J

Making a list:

Redo valve covers:  $500 (just a guess)

Fill tube seal: $300 (just a guess)

Window regulator replacement: $500-$600 @ dealer, $100/used-$300/new oem + 3 hrs work on your time

Fuel cap: $30 (from recycler)

Visor mirror: $30 (from recycler)

New tires: $150-$180 each, installed/balanced, (assuming you get reasonable tires for the car), $600-$800

Total (approximately): least expensive: ~$1.6K, most expensive: 2.2K

Offering $8K + 2.2K repairs = 10.2K (right at blue book)

Others can clarify the valve cover and oil filler tube repairs, as mine are guesses

If you plan on having a independent garage do all the work, I'd offer 7.5K-8K

If you plan on doing the window regulator (good video online) 8K

If you plan on taking to porsche dealer for repairs, ...ummm, lower than 7.5 K...

My position is to offer a lower but still reasonable number because one can always work up....

Oil OK? if not, add ~$100  ( 9 quarts mobil 1 + filter+garage labor).

Are you aware of the IMS bearing failure issue?  (a negotiating point).

Any issues with convertable top operation?   Motors+shafts+transmissions are weak spot, a real PITA to fix (IMHO), and expensive, at least $1200 if you have to redo the whole system.

Good luck!

J

oh yeah. that's a window regulator. did mine last year, noise is very familiar.

expensive part, easy fix.

Thank you very much for the confirmation.  I appreciate it.  Let the wrenching begin!!!

J

When moving the passenger window up and down, it makes a screeching noise.  I took the door apart and did not see any interference, binding, or anything that looked out of the ordinary. I lubed the regulator pullies (at least the ones I could get to on the bottom), but the one that is on the top LHS of the passenger door is covered by the door metal structure - which seems to be where the noise is coming from.

I attached a short video of the window operation and the noise is clearly heard.  Can someone confirm if this is a regulator problem?

Just in case, any recommendations on a source of good aftermarket regulators for a reasonable price?
 

Thanks

J

boxster_window_squeal.wmv

Search is your friend here...

7 pages of people with the same problem and several solutions.

 

http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/1728-horn-problem/

Thank you....interesting reading.

-J

Weird behaving horn....driving along fairly smooth highway horn will occasionally beep for 1-2 seconds...no correlation to road condt, frequency, etc...just random.

Going over some really bumpy roads, horn will occasionally beep...or more like a chirp.

Recently noticed now the horn does not work....

Anyone seen this behavior before with suggested things to look for?

I am guessing a loose connection but don't look fwd to trying to trace the wires.

Thanks for any help

J

 

Will give this a try: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QDRRNE/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

Am interested as to how the amazon hairy stuff worked out for you.....please leave some feedback as I am experiencing the same thing in my car...and yes, $225+ is really "OUCH"

Best regards,

J

 

Emissions related codes are capable of clearing themselves if the problem goes away for enough miles.  Only problem now is if or when it returns.

 

Really? OK, I never knew that, after all these years.  TYVM for quick reply.   I better get is inpected before light goes on again. lol

-J

Now this is really amusing.....CEL stayed on after visit to AZone to check the code. They did not clear the code.  Orderd O2 sensor.  Drove car following day...light on in morning,  make a trip in afternoon, light is off....made a few trips the following day, light still off.  

I thought once the CEL was on, it would not turn off by itself.  Can someone explain this behavior?  Now I wonder if I really have a faulty O2 sensor.....

Thank you

-J

Some O2 codes are very specific.  Depends on what year your car is as to if it has 2 or 4 sensors.

 

Know the exact code before throwing parts money after it.

 

Yes, Bosch makes the parts for Porsche.

 

More including a picture of the exhaust system, part numbers, etc here

1997 boxster.  It has 2 cats, one on each side.  there is one O2 sensor between the maniford down pipe and the cat, on one sensor on the end of the muffler.  Each side is symetrical (e.g. 2 O2 sensors/side, 2 sides, total of 2 O2 sensors).  So now the question remains: for North American car, What side (driver or passenger) is Bank 2?? and where is Sensor 1 located? (between manifold & cat? or at muffler?)  Any help is really appreciated.

Thanks

J

Code is p0153

Bank 2, sensor 1, h02s21

So where is bank 2 sensor 1????

As luck would have it, the day before I take the car for inspection the CE comes on.  The friendly folks at Auto Zone diagnosed it as a O2 sensor.  I don't recall the code at the moment, will follow up with that later. 

At first he was not sure if it was an 'upstream' or 'downstream' sensor....further questioning led him to say 'upstream' but not real sure he got it right.

So, where is the location of the 'upstream' sensor? 

Location of downstream sensor?

Are there only two sensors?

Is this a DYI in the driveway repair? am fairly handy with tools but is a lift needed?

A quick search shows bosch replacements - are they perform as well as OEM?

Thanks for your help

John

Based on your title, I'd suggest the passanger is not in the path of the window. :)

lol, I removed that passenger that was screeching (she commented something about my excessive speed in driving)..... then I heard the window screeching...

You most likely have a broken window carrier. It's made primarily from plastic with rollers and a stranded wire. The wire has probably jumped a roller which is causing the screeching sound. 

 

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/77-BODY-Window_Regulator/77-BODY-Window_Regulator.htm

 

That should fix your problem. 

 

S

Thank you....with this pointer I did some additional reading...even though my window operates, complete failure is not too far away?

So I did some online searching...Dorman replacements are anywhere from 1/3 to 1/2 price of OEM. 

Anyone try/have experience with Dorman replacements?

Thanks again for the valuable advice.

-J

We never did answer the OP's question about online tutorials.

 

http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/Change_Spark_Plugs_%26_Tubes.html  Not IE friendly

 

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/07-ENGINE-Plugs_-_Coils/07-ENGINE-Plugs_-_Coils.htm

thank you!...  I did do some googling and found the pelicanparts one...I figured pointers from owners/DIY entheusiasts would know the better ones. 

-John

So I go to put the passenger window down the other day and it emits a screeching sound, both going up and down.  Sounds like 'nails on a chalk board'...

I haven't had the time to tear the door apart to check it out, but, am wondering if there are any 'well known' problems with the regulator or window mechanism?

Would appreciate any insight...

Thanks

john

Thanks for the insight.  I guess the question that I should have asked but didnt: Is the IMS bearing prone to failure on a 97 boxster?

I read the law suit and settlement - model year 2002-2005, will cover up to 10 years, yada, yada, yada.  But for me, the question is is the 97 boxster susceptible?

Best regards,

John

_{I concur with JFP, placing a very small dab of anti-seize is good practice and always torque them back to spec.  Small insurance to prevent problems when removing. If you have ever had issues with a galled plug on removal then you know what an issue that is. A coated plug has never caused a problem on removal for me.}

I agree, a (very) little dab will do ya.....OR, I take a lesson from my father who serviced fighters during WWII while waiting for orders for flight school...a small dab of wheel bearing grease on the threads worked well - at least the Allison and Merlin engines never complained....I've used that approach on all my cars for many years and have had no problems.

 

Time to replace the plugs, am wondering how tough a job it is....

Didn't find anything useful on Google, so I thought I'd ask the experts for tips/pointers...

 

What is the OEM plug for a 97 boxster?

 

Thanks much!

 

John

Beru was the factory plug.  Changing the plug is pretty straight forward; we like to use both anti seize on the threads and a dab of dielectric grease on the plug insulator.  Be sure to torque to specs, and inspect the plug tubes for any oil leakage while you are in there.

 

Thank you...I've discovered that this is the Beru plug number: 14 FR-7 LUD, -True??

The following are also listed: NGK BKR6EK, Bosch FR-7-LDC+

Are there any pros/cons of either the NGK or Bosch over the Beru?

Are the tubes only available as Porsche products or are there equivalent quality aftermarket sources (e.g. Bosch)?

Source of reasonably prices plugs and tubes?  I checked Pelican and Sunset....others?

Best,

-J

Time to replace the plugs, am wondering how tough a job it is....

Didn't find anything useful on Google, so I thought I'd ask the experts for tips/pointers...

What is the OEM plug for a 97 boxster?

Thanks much!

John

Enjoyed reading the details, as I have a 97 with 30K miles and am wondering about doing the IMS + clutch job...Was just quoted $2200 USD for the whole job - as I had PS pressure hose replaced.

So, just curious....did you have your car on a lift or on 4 jack stands.......I HATE working on my back....lol

best regards,

John

 

Is it obvious if it's stuck open because i didnt notice anything when i the canister off on my car

 

Not really, you have to look at it, often with small mirror stuck down inside the canister.

 

[flame_on]  Ok, well being an engineer, I just have to ask....."And what problem were they trying to 'fix' that the full flow  spin on filters didn't have?"   This sort of engineering drives me nuts.....and on a 55K car no less....

[/flame_on]  grrrrrrr

 

 

 

The spin on option starts to make a lot more sense when you realize how prone these cars are to having the bypass valve in the bottom of the canister stick open and pass totally unfiltered oil back into the engine.  The spin on will not permit that as it is a "full flow" design which filters all the oil all of the time.

 

Ohhh, I didn't know that...Is this something that happens 'often'?  Should this be a maintenance item?  My boxster has 30K miles on it...

If you are running the cartridge type, you may want to pick up an O-ring for the canister and the correct size tool for removing the canister.  Or you can do what Plastikos suggested and switch over the the LN Engineering spin on filter.  

 

If you do switch to the spin on filter, be sure to purchase a filter can opener so you can inspect the filter element.  I purchased the Proform Oil Filter Cutter see link...

 

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-66490?seid=srese1&gclid=CNiRop7Ror8CFUYA7AodIG4Axw

Thanks for all the replies.  Found a Mahle at a local store so I'll go with that since it is OEM.  While I like the spin on conversion, the extra $s of the conversion kit is not really saving me anything, plus having to get a can opener to inspect the filter makes no sense since the oem cartridge arrangement already allows for inspection.....the dreaded IMS bearing fail....(don't think that is applicable to 1997s tho....)