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boxster_nut

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About boxster_nut

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  • From
    Pittsburgh, PA
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    1997 BOxster, 1999 Saab 9-5,

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  1. OK, thank you very much. Called a few dealerships and asked for just a diagnosis...One said they do diagnosis as part of the repair, the other place wanted $250. May be time to buy an analyizer. Unless someone knows of a helpful person in the pittsburgh area who would consider doing a favor..... Thanks J
  2. 1997 Boxster, 34K miles, garage kept. Electronic lock system will not stay locked. Scenario: Top is up, hood and trunk compartment well closed, windows up. All doors closed. Hit the lock button on FOB, hear the lock solenoids engage, doors lock, 2 seconds later doors unlock and horn beeps 2 times. (lights do not flash like they used to). When I insert key in the door and manually lock, same scenario: hear the lock solenoids engage, doors lock, 2 seconds later doors unlock and horn beeps 2 times. Background: last fall I replaced the window regulator and noticed the passenger window would go all the way down when the convertible top was opened. This spring, that behavior disappeared and window worked normally (I did reset the regulator travel after I replaced the regulator). Car worked OK in June, July and now started this weird behavior. Suggestions? Where to look? Comments welcomed! John
  3. I installed a used (11K miles) passenger window regulator on my Boxster. The regulator was complete with motor. The p/n tag on the motor of the 'new' regulator (from a 2002 cabriolet) did not match my original one, but I was assured it would work. Mechanically it fits fine and the windows moves up/down without any issues. The problem is that with the top down, the window will not stay fully up or anywhere in between. It always wants to go down. With the roof up, the window will go up/down fine, and will stop anywhere in between. With the window fully up and the door is opened, the window originally would drop ~2" and stop, then when the door is closed, it will return to the fully closed posiiton. With the new regulator, now the window drops to the very bottom. It's as if what ever stops the window from dropping ~2" is 'missing'....(what does tell the window to behave like this?) I ran the 'recalibration' on the window but it has not helped. Any suggestions as to what may be the problem and how to resolve it? The drivers side window has continued to work the way it always has..... Thanks J
  4. Hi Loren: Thanks for the tip. I tried the procedure both with the top up and down. No joy. Other thoughts? Best regards, John
  5. I just replaced the window regulator and motor on passenger side door, on my 97 Boxster. R&R of the old regulator went without a hitch, and there is no more screeching & grinding. However, there is an interesting side effect. With the top up, and the windows up, I unlatch the top to put it down, and immediately (as before the repair) the windows drop down, however, the passenger window drops the whole way down instead of the 3-4” that it used to. The driver’s side window continues to work as before, e.g. drops 3”-4”. The only thing I can think of to cause this is the regulator motor for the new unit. Is there anyway to fix this so it behaves as it did prior to installing the new one? The replacement is used (with 11K miles on it) from a 2002 Cabriolet. Thanks for any help J
  6. The drain table is invaluable in trouble shooting this problem. In addition, IMHO, getting the wiring diagrams would be very helpful. Assuming you have some good understanding of electrical circuit theory and devices, it would be helpful to study the wiring diagrams to understand which loads are being isolated when you pull fuses as there are multiple devices on each leg. Pulling fuses, generally, will narrow down the circuit but not the device that is causing the problem. Well, in some cases the fuse description will point to an obvious device which you could isolate but that may not solve the problem. After reading through the drain table, prepare to spend some time doing this. I was *really* surprised to see a wait time of over one hour to get to the smallest current draw. Have fun
  7. After re-reading the post, the drain interval/pattern is *very* strange. With all due respect, is this the correct story?? every 45 mins the current draw shoots up to 5 Amps (from what? and for how long?)??? I know of nothing in a vehicle that would run at this frequency or multiples of that frequency or that has any similar behavior. There are DMMs that are capable of monitoring readings over a period of time. You may need to get one if this is truly the case. I'd start with the monitoring the battery current draw and if it is over the normal value, start pulling & replacing fuses.. If the battery current is less than the normal value, then you may need a meter that monitors the current over time. Good luck J
  8. This approach is incorrect and you will most likely burn out the meter if you do this. First of all, it is parasitic CURRENT draws (not voltage), Secondly, you should set the meter on Amps (e.g. current) NOT OHMS. While the general idea is correct (after the corrections I made) you need to be aware of important details: As a general rule of thumb, the maximum current draw with everything in the car 'turned off' and having waited about 60 seconds for all the devices to go to sleep, is 50 ma (or 0.050 A). Opening a door which will cause interior lights to go on and 'awaken' a factory alarm box will result in a current draw of roughly 2-6 amps (depending on all the loads). Point is, your meter should be able to autorange OR, set it to the high range and then wait a minute till the current draw settles down. then switch to the low range to see the actual draw. The fuse-pull method has to be well organized but looking at the fuse layout and begin pulling fuses one at a time and note the change in current draw, One must wait as long as 30-45 seconds for the reading to settle.Likewise, one must wait 30-45 seconds after reinserting the fuse and moving to the next one. It is very helpful to record the current changes associated with each fuse. 5 amps is a hefty current draw for a vehicle 'at rest'. This means a 'large load' is being connected to the supply bus. Typically, this includes the ignition switch, and the starter motor. If the ignition switch is faulty, it could be energizing a number of loads. Relays that engage the starter motor circuit or the starter motor itself could be (partially) shorted, but this is unlikely. When in the 'off' condition, the radio should draw no more than about 20 ma to run the clock ckt. Generally, alarm monitoring is around 10ma. Sources of problems also include: trunk lights that are kept on due to faulty trunk lid switches, and shorted wiper motors (if their power feed bypasses the ignition switch). The numbers above are general 'ball park' numbers, not Porsche specific. The FSM would have the real numbers. I based my numbers on troubleshooting similar problems on my jeep and Saab. Good luck J
  9. I have a 1997 boxster that needs a new passenger side window regulator. Checking various sources resulted in different Porsche p/n. The p/n at pelican parts is 996-542-07604. Another site listed 996-542-01605. There were also other p/n from other sites (part houses as well as flea-bay). So, I wonder if anyone has a list of cross references for all p/n that will work in my 1997? Thanks John
  10. Have you tried any recyclers? (aka junk yards)? there are a few fairly well known ones, whos names escape me at the moment, who list entire vehicles that hey are parting out. When looking for door and front bumper parts for my 97, there were a number of lower mileage vehicles, e.g. 16K-40k.. basically garage grannies that met an untimely death...
  11. Well I assumed it was something I had done when I cleaned out the throttle. I took the air intake off, all the clips and bolts etc, and I am sure everything went back on ok but I was just wondering if I should check something in that area first before driving 1 hour to the porsche garage. I notice you are not in the states...Many auto parts stores here in the states will do a scan if you ask them. Perhaps that is the same where you are located? They may not be able to read some Porsche specific codes but the scan tools should be able to read/interpret the majority of the codes....worth checking to avoid the drive Good luck John
  12. Thank you....interesting reading. -J Follow-up my repair: I didn't have to go through all the work in removing bushing, silicon, nylon washers....described here http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/1728-horn-problem/page-7 The bushings on my 97 while deteriated, wern't completely gone. All I did was get #31 o-rings and put them over the center sleeve on *each* side of the bushing. I did not fix them in place with silicon...didn't see the need as they are fairly snug on the sleeve and when assembled, are sandwiched between the large head screw, the horn frame, and the contact block in the steering wheel. One could seat them in silicon but I do not see the need to spend extra time while the silicon dries. A fourty minute job and back together and good as new. One can get the #31 o-rings at Home Depot or Lowes, mfg by Danco, ten in a pack for $2.50. Hope this helps someone with their repair.
  13. I know this is a old thread but wanted to update with my experience. I didn't have to go through all the work here. The bushings on my 97 while deteriated, wern't completely gone. All I did was get #31 o-rings and put them over the center sleeve on *each* side of the bushing. I did not fix them in place with silicon...didn't see the need as they are fairly snug on the sleeve and when assembled, are sandwiched between the large head screw, the horn frame, and the contact block in the steering wheel. One could seat them in silicon but I do not see the need to spend extra time while the silicon dries. A fourty minute job and back together and good as new. One can get the #31 o-rings at Home Depot or Lowes, mfg by Danco, ten in a pack for $2.50. Hope this helps someone with their repair. J
  14. Making a list: Redo valve covers: $500 (just a guess) Fill tube seal: $300 (just a guess) Window regulator replacement: $500-$600 @ dealer, $100/used-$300/new oem + 3 hrs work on your time Fuel cap: $30 (from recycler) Visor mirror: $30 (from recycler) New tires: $150-$180 each, installed/balanced, (assuming you get reasonable tires for the car), $600-$800 Total (approximately): least expensive: ~$1.6K, most expensive: 2.2K Offering $8K + 2.2K repairs = 10.2K (right at blue book) Others can clarify the valve cover and oil filler tube repairs, as mine are guesses If you plan on having a independent garage do all the work, I'd offer 7.5K-8K If you plan on doing the window regulator (good video online) 8K If you plan on taking to porsche dealer for repairs, ...ummm, lower than 7.5 K... My position is to offer a lower but still reasonable number because one can always work up.... Oil OK? if not, add ~$100 ( 9 quarts mobil 1 + filter+garage labor). Are you aware of the IMS bearing failure issue? (a negotiating point). Any issues with convertable top operation? Motors+shafts+transmissions are weak spot, a real PITA to fix (IMHO), and expensive, at least $1200 if you have to redo the whole system. Good luck! J
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