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boxster_nut

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About boxster_nut

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  • From
    Pittsburgh, PA
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    1997 BOxster, 1999 Saab 9-5,

Recent Profile Visitors

929 profile views
  1. how to check the IAC valve? Thanks for the suggestion J
  2. I recently became aware of the Variocam technology in my 1997 boxster. I have done some reading about it and there seems to have been a progression of improvements and associated assessments of cam wear. I am looking for information specific to my vehicle. How often should one read the cam deviations using the Durametric? What is the general life time of the Variocam pads and associated components? I don't have a Durametric, how can I assess if there is any degradation of the varicam components? (e.g. inspecting the oil filter, etc.) What are preventative measures
  3. It sat all winter and the only thing on the ground was 1-2 drops of oil on the ground. Dont think that would qualify as a leak. dipstick OK. I doubt fuel filter...haven't touched it. Chasing a vacuum leak is a PITA...lol Thanks J
  4. Hello: 1997 Boxster with 34K miles, manual transmission. It has developed a problem where is idles unevenly, cycling between 400-maybe 1100 RPM, and if left alone long enough, will stall out. No codes are read with my BlueDriver OBDC2 reader. I changed the oil about 600 miles ago, and cleaned the TB when this rough idling began, but no success in fixing the problem. I don't have access to any of the Porsche diagnostic tools. Any pointers to help diagnose the problem or things to try to fix it? Thanks J
  5. vintage 1997 Boxster.... Shortly after I changed the oil, the revolutions at idle began to oscillate between 300 rpm to about 1200 rpm. Reading various forums identified the most common problem is a dirty throttle body, possibly the Oil Air Separator (OAS). Given the car has 34K miles and cleaning the TB has never been done, I figured it was time. The throttle body was indeed filthy with a very light oil-like coating, and same for the plenum to the cylinders. Having seen pictures of the effects of a bad oil separator, I figured mine was ok and what I observed was just buildup of 34K mi
  6. Not directly into the screw. It takes a bit (a lot?) of patience to hunt around with the tip of the driver to find the screw head and home the screw driver. IIRC, a couple of the hole shafts on the back of the steering wheel were positioned in such a way that they overlapped the screw and it took some sideways forcing (quite a bit actually) to eventually find and home the screw driver into the screw. It is a little frustrating but keep forcing pad material out of the way with the tip of the screw driver and eventually you will find the screw. This is the video I used and ye
  7. I used the O-ring approach a few years ago and had no problem that you describe on my 1997. IIRC, there is a very good youtube how-to. Have you seen that? How does it compare to what you are encountering? ummmm after re-read.....CLOCKWISE!?!?!? that tightens them! Try COUNTERCLOCKWISE and see how that works... 😉 J
  8. I changed oil + filter on my 97 boxster with all of 33K miles. Used Mobil 1 0w40 (as always) and a Mann filter. Ran fine for the first 5-6 miles then engine would surge from about 300 RPM to about 1200 RPM at idle...Thing is, it would do this randomly. Sometimes it would idle smooth at about 500 RPM, then other times it would get into surge mode. I can't determine what causes it to go into surge or out of surge. During the course of my 8 mile commute to work, roughly 50% of the time it would idle fine when at a stop sigh/light, the other 50% it goes into this surge/hunt mode.
  9. "My passenger side door lock is acting up. The car has been giving the characteristic 'double-honk' when locking and unlocking for a while and the window doesn't stay down the tiny bit it's supposed to when the door is open. It was on the list to fix this month. Shortly before the engine started cutting out, the 'double-honk' started sounding while driving and often. Could the problem be alarm/lock related? " I am currently going through this process. I can tell you what I have learned so far. The ' lock followed by a double honk followed by the locks unlocking' is a symptom
  10. You are spot-on!!! After spending a good amount of time piecing together information from various sites (Porsche, VW (bug, jetta, passat), Audi) I got a good picture of the switches, what they signal, possible replacements, and alternatives. Unfortunately, the p/n 3B1-837-015-E for my door latch is NLA from most places - except pelican who's price is $310 (ouch!!). IF the VW places had them, the posted cost is $100-$115 depending on the merchant. There are all sorts of p/n variations with suffexs such as AC, C, D and E. I didn't find any source that compared these switches to identify the
  11. Hello: 1997 Boxster, all stock, 32K miles. All doors closed, top up & locked, hood and trunk closed tight. Hit the key lock on the key FOB. All locks go to lock position, 2-3 second later, door locks pop open. Tried same configuration with manual key-turn to lock, all locks go to locked position, 2-3 seconds later door lock pop open. I checked the microswitches in windshield frame for convertible top - behaves normally. Door windows appear to work normally. I changed driver’s side window regulator about a year ago, reset limits and everything worked fi
  12. OK, thank you very much. Called a few dealerships and asked for just a diagnosis...One said they do diagnosis as part of the repair, the other place wanted $250. May be time to buy an analyizer. Unless someone knows of a helpful person in the pittsburgh area who would consider doing a favor..... Thanks J
  13. 1997 Boxster, 34K miles, garage kept. Electronic lock system will not stay locked. Scenario: Top is up, hood and trunk compartment well closed, windows up. All doors closed. Hit the lock button on FOB, hear the lock solenoids engage, doors lock, 2 seconds later doors unlock and horn beeps 2 times. (lights do not flash like they used to). When I insert key in the door and manually lock, same scenario: hear the lock solenoids engage, doors lock, 2 seconds later doors unlock and horn beeps 2 times. Background: last fall I replaced the window regulator and n
  14. I installed a used (11K miles) passenger window regulator on my Boxster. The regulator was complete with motor. The p/n tag on the motor of the 'new' regulator (from a 2002 cabriolet) did not match my original one, but I was assured it would work. Mechanically it fits fine and the windows moves up/down without any issues. The problem is that with the top down, the window will not stay fully up or anywhere in between. It always wants to go down. With the roof up, the window will go up/down fine, and will stop anywhere in between. With the window fully up and the door is o
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