996noob

Do you mean undo the heater core hoses that are located in the battery area in front of the windshield? Do you also put the ignition on, and Heater on high, while doing the flush right in the battery compartment area?

Thanks, Loren. Once again, superb stuff. Yes, I'm awaiting the Uview, should arrive any day now!

If you have a 996 (and the cable is for that car) then you need the newer OBD2 cable not the round one. I have a PIWIS on short term loan at the moment, and am trying help out some friends and get it to work on a 964 and a 993.

I have the genuine Porsche cable with the 'round' plug for older cars. I would need to connect my PST2 rather than my PIWIS though. Is that then a different cable than what I need?

If I do a complete drain of the radiator send and return lines, should I drain the pair of hoses from the front, or from the rear (closer to engine)? Which are the correct points to undo the hoses for complete drain?

Looks good. Like the Durametric one, only a few of the pins are used, compared to the China ones on ebay. Does anybody have the Durametric professional kit that has the converter cable, and also has a PIWIS? Perhaps we can try the Durametric adapter with the PIWIS to see if it works. Loren? I can confirm the Durametric round cable converter does plug into my PIWIS cable. I do not have a car to test it on -- and who will pay for my PIWIS if the cable smokes it? :eek: Ooh yes. I didn't think about that.

Do they sell it separately? I couldn't find it available on their website.

Looks good. Like the Durametric one, only a few of the pins are used, compared to the China ones on ebay. Does anybody have the Durametric professional kit that has the converter cable, and also has a PIWIS? Perhaps we can try the Durametric adapter with the PIWIS to see if it works. Loren?

Yes, I noticed the ones on ebay (from china). The main thing is that at least the connectors are correct, and they have all the pins. Looking at the Durametric one, only 5 or so pins are used. We could dissect the china cable and modify the wires so that we get a working cable. But, we will need some sort of pin-out diagram , or wiring diagram. What do you think?

That's seriously cool. Nice. I wonder if there is anything for iPad?

Is the PIWIS downward compatible with the older Porsche that use the round connector? Is it as simple as buying a 16pinOBDII to 19pinOBDI adaptor and plugging it in? Please pardon my ignorance on this matter.

The engine is at 100k KM, or around 60+k Miles. That's a good idea to check the oil for metallic tell tale signs during the next oil change, I'll remember to do that. I will be changing my AOS soon, so most probably will have the engine out, which will make it easier to do all the checks you suggested. Since the engine will be out, what else should I get done other than change Lifters, check (or change?) Tensioners, and check Ramps?

Hi Guys, Model: 1999 Carrera 996 "C2" 3.4L. Automatic (Tiptronic). I have been having a tapping sound from the right rear corner of the car, coming from the engine. It seems to tap every revolution of the engine. I can try to measure the "beats per minute", if that helps? I was suspecting the hydraulic lifters for the longest time, but I realised that: A ) Same single sound, so it would have to be only one sigle lifter (not sure if that is likely). B ) Only happens at idle, base rpm, goes away during the slightest throttle opening. C ) Tapping sound regardless of oil pressure and temperature (tested at full cold start and at full engine temp). D ) Only at NO LOAD condition. Idle rpm in Park and Neutral, there is sound. In Drive or Reverse, with brakes on, at same rpm as idle, no sound. I think I have ruled out hydraulic lifter problem or worn cam lobe from above observations. (please correct me if I'm wrong at any point). Could it be chain slap? Timing Chain tensioner problem? Broken / worn down chain guide? Thanks in advance.

In South East Asia, "Keropur" sounds like a deep fried flour cracker snack commonly eaten like potato chips. Hahaha. :clapping:

ok, I just wanted to bring this up for discussion sake. This thing has been going through my head for almost a decade. While the accepted practice is what has been always advised, it just doesn't gel with what we understand it to be. oh well...

Looking at the diagram, I would only agree if we are talking about Force applied at different Lengths, not Torque. I'm not sure where the below example was extracted from, but the explanation below seems fundamentally flawed if we are talking about Torque. Remember, Torque is a twisting moment, not a force. Let's put this in practical terms. Let's say you have a 10 inch long torque wrench. In order to exert X lb/ft of Torque on a bolt, you pull at 10 inches away with a Force of Y lbs. Setting the wrench at X lb/ft, it clicks, as expected. Let's say now you have a 5 inch long torque wrench, with 5 inch extension. In order to exert X lbt/ft of Torque, you pull at 10 inches away from the bolt with a Force Y lbs. The same, cos it's Force multiplied by distance, fundamental definition. Now, do we set the 5 Inch torque wrench at Half of X lbs feet? Before we answer "yes", remember that we are still pulling Y lbs, not less. It would seem counter-intuitive that the shorter torque wrench should be set lower and click at less setting while we pull the same amount. Extension means increase length, and to get the same torque, less force is needed. Look at the diagram again. It should mean less force is need at a longer distance, not less torque. Let's take that very same torque wrench in the diagram, without extension. You apply 50 lb/ft, and it reads 50 lb/ft. What if you moved the "fulcrum" of the torque wrench mechanism along any length from left to right. The mechanism will still receive and read out the same 50 lb/ft, regardless of the length from it to the bolt applied. Likewise, let's take my example about again, 5 inch extension with 5 inch torque wrench. You need to apply 50 lbs/ft on the bolt. Then we set the torque wrench at 25 lbs/ft at the end of the extension. What if the extension were also a torque wrench? It would be set at 50 lbs/ft, cos it's at the bolt, and at the other end we have the other torque wrench at 25 lb/ft. They both click at the same force (theoretically). What if we reversed the ends of the extension (which is also a torque wrench), then the two torque wrenches will be acting on each other at their connection point. But, one is set at 50lb/ft, but the other is set to 25 lb/ft. Doesn't seem right. They won't click together. My point is that if you had to swap ends of a torque wrench, and still needed to torque down a bolt, and you could only use a twisting motion to do it at the torque wrench head, you would need the same amount of torque - but now the whole wrench handle is an extension. I'm just asking for us to just think about it awhile, from fundamentals, before just accepting literature like that at face value.

I 'm not sure if you are completely correct. The lever arm does not really increase. It only increases if the extension and your torque wrench are rigid. Instead, while you are applying X lb/ft to the extension, and the extension is a free body, it will in turn apply X lb/ft to the bolt you want to torque. If you look at the fundamentals of torque and moments without any preconceptions, you will see what I mean. Remember what we learnt in Physics during university al those years ago, a free body not rigidly attached to anything else, subjected to a turning moment will have the same turning moment ANYWHERE on its body. So, when you apply the torque by torque wrench to the "extension", it will apply the same torque to the bolt on the other side - because the torque wrench and the "extension" are not rigidly connected. Think about it. Furthermore, your formula works only if you are talking about applying a Force. The unit of Torque comprises of a Force multiplied by a Distance. If you change the Distance, you have to change the Force in order to maintain the same Torque. This is what I think you meant in your explanation. However, I think you might have confused the Force with Torque, because you aren't applying a Force with the Torque wrench, you are applying a Torque, and as such your formula does not apply.

But I think access depends on whether the "owner" has bought that particular "module"? Or are all the manuals available through this mode?

Perhaps next time I'll ask him to demonstrate. Thanks.

I see, that makes sense. Older cars fall back on the PST2 "emulation". So, in order to access the workshop repair manuals for, say, a 997, in PIWIS, how would you navigate to it in the program?

Hi Loren, I was at an independant workshop the other day and he has a PIWIS. They let me navigate through it for a few minutes. Of course, I did not want to ask too many questions, cos I did not want to impose. However, I could not find where to locate the electronic workshop manuals that I had thought are loaded into PIWIS. The left bar was a Menu which read: DIAGNOSTICS WIRING DIAGRAMS FAULT FINDING INFORMATION XX - can't remember YY - can't remember When touching INFORMATION on the touchsreen, the drop menu showed What's new Information Help Log - something - can't remember. To cut the story short, basically, I could not find the workshop manuals under INFORMATION. Was I looking at the wrong menu? Porsche workshop manuals are not free. You can buy manuals in sections from PIWIS TSI. PWIS TSI = Porsche Integrated Workshop Information System - Technical Service Information I would not buy any 2009 model manuals yet because they are still writing them and what you buy will likely be incomplete. It usually takes Porsche about 1 year to deliver a completed manual. And, no you do not get to download the completed version free after updates - you have to buy it again.

Do you need the correct length of the tool so that you can get it to : A ) fit the job at hand? or B ) to get the correct torque? If you are looking at ( B ), then you don't need the tool's length. Although torque by definition is like a "lever arm" where you apply a force from a specific distance away from the axis, this doesn't apply to this "extension" tool from Porsche. If you remember when we learnt in school about the rules of "Moments" or turning force, as long as you apply the torque on the tool, the same amount of torque will be applied to the bolt you are tightening. So, if you want to apply X lb/ft to the bolt through the special extension tool, you just apply X lb/ft to the tool. It will apply Xlb/ft to the bolt. Hope this helps.

Thanks! Will go ahead and buy replacement arms for both Front and Rear.

I was hoping you'd say that, cos that's the only bit I need to change and I'd just completed the whole PSS9 installation and big brake kit installation, and didn't want to go through it all again! Do you think it is also an easy replacement for the rear ones? Thanks in advance!

If I need to change just the front control arms ("tension rods", not the lower arms), can this be done without removing the rest of the suspension?