Kim

Nick, Can't answer your basic question .... "why didn't they check" .... but I can tell you that it can be done by a mildly proficient owner/shade tree mechanic. I posted several questions, followed by an informal DIY on this issue early in the year .... as I found my rear pax carpets soaked after a rain. Even as someone brand new to 996's, it took me considerably less than 5 hours to disassemble, clean out, and repair the right side .... followed by a check of the left side. I say "repair" because, in addition to a clogged primary drain hose (the one emptying in the void behind the rear wheel well liner), one of the hidden hoses that transfers drain water from one tray to another (its a cheap, Rube Goldberg setup) was loose, and, thus, emptying into space, e.g. my carpets. There is a page in the technical manual that displays the Cab drain plan. That helps a LOT in troubleshooting. If you have any questions I might help with, feel free to respond or PM me. Kim 2000 Cab

Right after I bought my Cab a year ago, I saw an ad for the Smart Top and installed one right away. I remain very pleased with the ability to operate the top while moving .... but the bigger convenience is to be able to operate it with one touch of the switch, without having to hold the switch until the top is completely up or down. So, when I saw a recent ad for their new product, Remote Top, I was very interested. I had even inquired on this forum last year if anyone had experimented with using an after market door lock system to raise/lower their tops remotely. No luck. I envied my forum buds with newer, European models who could accomplish this feat with the OEM multi-function key remote. Yesterday, I completed the 30 minute installation of my Remote Top. Its terrific. Using the OEM, one button key for my 2000 Cab, I can raise and lower the top remotely .... and do the same with the windows if the top is already where I desire it. No more leaning into the car to operate the top. Additional enhancements include the ability to arm the motion sensor when the top is down, program automatic locking without the PST2, and operate the windows with the car switches after unlocking with the remote, whether or not you have inserted the key. If you Cab drivers decide to try this, I highly advise installation method #2, in which you remove your seat bolts and tilt the driver's seat out of the way. Its a lot easier than trying to work under the edge of the seat. Just get a 12mm Torx socket before you start. (The usual disclaimer ... I have no connection with, nor do I receive anything from Wilhelmy. This is simply a personal recommendation.) Kim 2000 Cab Metallic Black/Graphite Grey

I can tell you from exeperience that the small area will become large, and quickly, if your loose area is at the bottom of the window. The airflow over the top constantly inflates the loose area like an air scoop, widening the damage rapidly, Mine went from a few inches ... when first noticed .... to the entire lower seam in a matter of days. This did not open the interior of my car to the weather, as the window was still attached about 2 inches in from the edge. It did constantly collect leaves, rain, etc. The TSB specifes that an area of less than 10mm may be rebonded, requiring that the top be removed. Otherwise, it calls for a plastic window replacement. I believe that was guidance for the dealer facing an warranty issue. My 2000 Cab went through this in May. The dealer confirmed that my car was out of warranty, then referred me to a third party top/interior shop he uses regularly. That shop was familiar with the issue and stated he could not rebond the loose area. He offered a new OEM top for $3500 installed, or a German manufactured top "of equal quality" (but with stitched vice glued back window) for $1900. I took the latter, and have been very happy with it. It appears to be every bit the equal of the original top in quality and fit. I did speak with another shop that would remove the top, stitch around the perimeter of the window, and reinstall for approximately $600 labor. No guarantees on leaking or lasting. Good luck, Kim

Here is what I just posted on this subject on another forum: I bought my 996 (used) almost a year ago, and then spent a long time researching tire choices to replace the cheap ones it came with. The result was the recent mounting of a set of the Eagle F1 GS-D3's (18") you are considering. I couldn't be happier. I do not track my car, either .... daily driver and highway trips with my wife. In addition to wet/dry traction, road noise was important to me, as the roar I was hearing from the original tires was not a pleasant way to cruise in a car I bought strictly for pleasure. Consumer Reports, whom I consider to be neutral and reliable, rated the Eagle F1 very high for wet & dry traction .... a little lower for noise .... a good compromise. N rating .... I don't consider to be a factor. By sheer chance, I was in Zuffenhausen and visited the big Porsche Zentrum dealer adjacent to the factory just prior to making my decision. A lengthy discussion with the staff there led me to understand that N-rating is an "after the fact blessing" of a tire, as opposed to the oft assumed sign of "made to order for Porsche". A salesman went to a new car and pulled out the owner's manual. He pointed out that: (1) it only mentions N rating in the context of matching mounted sets of the same N-rating. (2) it specifically mentions buying non-Porsche recommended tires and simply reminds one to buy from a reputable dealer and adhere to the specified quality (speed, traction, wear, etc) ratings. Bottom line of the discussion, the use of N-rated tires is not seen by Porsche as a requirement in any way. This has been skewed somewhat by a deal between Michelin and US Porsche dealers to have the dealers as exclusive outlets for some Michelin N-rated tires .... thus assuring a recommendation from the dealer that "you must use N-rated tire". Lest anyone get the wrong idea. A set of Eagle F1's does not represent a savings when compared to Michelins, Bridgestone, etc. I paid well over $1000 for a set. Its about finding the right tire for your needs / preferences / driving style. Ironically, the very first N-rated tire was a Goodyear. I love my Eagles, and the quiet, very stable ride they have given me in high speed cruising and heavy traffic commuting. ********* Another fan of this tire posted (in part): I have had F1 GS-D3’s on my car since April. .... Over all I think these are great daily driver tires. Especially if driving in the rain is a factor. I can not comment on ultimate dry grip as I have not had them on the track. There are some logical arguments that the tire may not offer the best ultimate grip because of the amount of rubber in contact with the surface in the contact patch because of the aggressive tread design….maybe so. However, in daily driving and aggressive street driving situations I have never thought I wanted or needed more grip. In the wet the tires are in a word excellent. The grip is fantastic in the wet with rock solid stability which has caused me to completely forget what hydroplaning is or feels like. ....... I think the combination of wear and wet weather traction make them an excellent tire for daily and trip driving duties. ********* Hope this info is useful, Kim 2000 Cab

I need to top off my power steering fluid. Checked the manual, which specifies "Pentosin CHF 11 S". I cannot find any mention of this spec at the local auto parts store .... unlike my former Pcar (928), which specified something that was easily found on various brands (Dexron, Mercon, etc). Does this fluid have to come from the dealer .... or do I just need the right code words at Autozone? Thanks for any help. Kim 2000 Cab

I can't say just how unique your experince is .... but it is certainly not universal. I found my car (in Texas) on the web, and went from Atlanta to see it at a non-Porsche used car dealer. 2000 996 Cab with 35K miles, just off warranty. Spoke with the Porsche dealer who had just done a PPI for another potential buyer. Bought the car and drove it home in December, 04. In the 10 months since, I have put on 13K (daily driver) and had no serious mechanical problems. It has not been to a dealer or in the shop, other than for the 30K maint. right after purchase. I discovered and fixed a clogged water drain from the convertible tray, and, more recently, had to remove and adjust the front lid latch. (help for both jobs on RennTech .... thanks, Loren). That's the sum total of repairs needed on my used car (not certified by a dealer) through almost a year and 13,000 miles. It compares well with previously owned BMWs and Volvos .... but pales in comparison to the reliability of my wife's Toyota. Of course, its a lot more fun than the Landcruiser. Kim 2000 Cab

After today's scrubbing, I really don't think what is left is brake dust. It appears to splotches of rubber, tar, and/or black paint. My most pressing question is: how hard can I scrub inside the wheel? Is the surface painted? Kim

OK, guys. After reading how you use Rejex or something similar to coat the inside of your wheels and make brake dust removal easy, I decided to take mine off and wash them (insides) for the first time (car is 5 yrs, 45,000 miles). I really like the general look of seeing silver color through the spokes, but there was plenty of black (paint?, tar?, rubber? .... or a mixture of all 3) that would not come off with simple washing. My wheels are 18" turbo look, OEM. I cannot tell if the inside surface is painted, or coated in any way. Can I safely use harsher cleaners, or abrasives (plastic pad or steel wool) on the inside surface .... or will I ruin them in some way. Bottom line, now that I'm most of the way there, I would really like to clean the insides up well, then Rejex them for the future. Any suggestions on the best (and safe) way to go about it? Thanks, Kim 2000 Cab

The price is steep, but a dismantler in California routinely sells complete sets of books (owner's manual, radio manual, service info, leather folders, etc) on Ebay for various year models. Usually runs about $175. Kim

I spent a good deal of time on the phone with Jeff at Sunset Porsche (the most helpful parts department you'll ever find). Jeff concurred with my local dealer that there is no gloss PSE switch. He suggested the "clear coat on the flat switch" solution. Kim 2000 Cab

Thanks to both of you guys. I will do both. Kim

With both my present OEM cover, and my previous Car Craft cover for my old 928, came instructions never to wash with laundry "detergent". Rather, they say to use a gentle laundry "soap" such as Ivory Snow. The problem supposedly is that detergents will remove the chemical waterproofing in the cover. My cover is dirty, and ready for the washing machine. However, a thorough search of the super market reveals exactly zero laundry "soap". Everything, including those in the infant department, is a detergent. I don't wish to be obsessive, but I also don't wish to destroy the water proof quality of my cover. Anyone had luck with a particular product .... preferably one that can be used in the washing machine? Thanks, Kim 2000 Cab

This is the first time I've had reason to feel good about dealer service departments in Atlanta. I took Henessy Porsche two key fobs, and they programmed them on the spot for $47.00 total. Kim

If you are talking about the intermitent wiper mode selected with the wiper stalk, then my car (and I assume all other without rain sensor) has a round knob, low on the left side of the center console, that adjusts the interval .... further clockwise = shorter interval between swipes. If you are talking about automatic wipers triggered by the rain sensor, then older cars use this same knob to adjust sensitivity, I believe .... and newer versions have no adjustment for sensitivity. You did not state your MY .... so don't know which group you would fall into. Kim

I routinely use the recent (not newest) Porsche OEM child seat in the front seat of my 2000 Cab for a 4-year old. It uses the factory airbag deactivation device. A non Porsche seat may be used in the front seat, but some method must be used to deactivate the airbag. There have been many posts from drivers who have shopped for a non-Porsche brand infant seat to fit in the rear seat of a 996 .... no airbag deactivation required. I've pretty much beat the subject to death with posts here .... if if you would like to email me with any specific questions you may have, I will be more than happy to reply directly and not bore everyone else. (yes, I can supply a picture if you really want one) Kim lkwelch@mindspring.com

OK. Last post, I promise. Thanks to the terrific instructions and pictures posted by Viper501, I disassembled the latch, found the exact problem he described, and repaired / reinstalled my trunk latch. The bonus is that it is now, thanks to lube and proper height adjustment, very easy to close and open .... as compared to the former, pre-break, status, when I had to push down very forcefully to latch it. Viper501's instructions would make a great addition to the DIY section, Loren. It certainly appears to be a fairly common problem for MY through 2000. For you 1999 & 2000 owners who have seen the hints regarding checking fuses and inputting 12 vdc power to the car in order to open your stuck trunk .... that's not for you. The only electrical element in the 99/00 trunk latch is the open/shut sensor for the alarm system. All else is mechanical. If you haven't read how to locate your front emergency release, and reroute it to behind the front bumper, I highly recommend that one, also. Kim 2000 Cab

Yes, I could feel some mechanical motion in the latch when pulling either release .... just, seemingly, not enough. NOW, its open: .... following your advice ... I pushed down (further closed) on the hood while holding a strain on the emergency release. I could detect some different motion, so I then pried upward on the hood with the plastic handle of a kitchen tool, wrapped in heavy cardboard (hoping not to ruin paint). The hood then raised a half inch, allowing me to use my hands to pull it to the normal, secondary latch height, and I released that red handle normally. There was still obvious mechanical binding of some sort when I pulled the hood totally out of the latch. I am now following instructions found here on RennTech on examining and repairing the latch. I have not yet found an obvious problem .... but I certainly hope to, so that I can know I fixed something. I'll follow up with any helpful info. Thanks for your help, Loren. Kim

This is not the "battery is dead" issue. The car is running perfectly normally, remote locking system working, car starting .... and neither normal nor emergency release operating the trunk latch. Has me stumped. Kim

As it stands, I can already reach & move the secondary latch release with a thin tool. I have tried releasing that while someone holds tension on the normal release. It does not help. No one comes in contact with the car except me. When this occured, it had been in a guarded employee parking lot, under the car cover, for the past 3 days. Upon parking, I had closed the trunk normally. Kim

Loren, I have watched carefully at the nose while my wife lifts the normal lever .... and while I pull on the emergency cable. I can detect no movement of the trunk lid itself. Kim

MY 2000, 996 Cab. I've got a problem with my trunk that is not the usual "battery is dead" issue that I've seen here before. After the car sat in the lot for 3 days, the doors unlocked normally with the key remote, but the trunk did not open when I pulled the lever by the driver's seat. No problem .... thanks to this forum, I had run the emergency release up behind the bumper where I could access it through the plug for the tow hook. I quickly pulled out the cable and gave it a yank. Nothing happened. As with the normal lever, I can feel some mechanical action taking place, but the trunk does not release. It is not a matter of just not popping up .... as I have gone to some risk to my paint to pry it up while holding tension on the release cable .... still no luck. Any ideas or suggestions? Kim

I followed the supplied directions, and had no problem at all. Took 30 minutes to an hour. The extra room comes in very handy with no glove box. 1996 996?? Kim

A couple of months ago, I paid Sunset just a tad over $1400 for latest edition (checked part number supplied by Loren here on the forum) and the switch, which is not part of the kit. That included shipping to the east coast. Kim

I agree. Having the litronic come up to join the dedicated high beam makes a very nice difference in the high beam's effectiveness. I tried it both ways. Its worth the cost of the harness and the small amount of time necessary to install it. Kim

What a great idea. I see no problem with the hoist bar and harness on my hoist damaging my top or its molding. My problem was the aforestated: "hangs too low from the ceiling". I have already ordered the winch from Harbor Freight. I intend to mount it in the attic above my garage, feed the cable down through the ceiling, and attach it directly to the hoist harness. That way, a foot of pulley block, hook, and eye-bolt is eliminated, and the hoist harness can be snugged right up against the ceiling. Thanks .... my hoist is no longer for sale, Kim